Peacock gudgeons (Tateurndina ocellicauda) are colorful freshwater fish from Papua New Guinea. A planted aquarium with gentle flow, several shelters and dependable small meaty foods suits them better than a busy tank where they must compete at every meal.
They can be rewarding for an attentive beginner with a cycled aquarium, but they are not maintenance-free. Plan the layout and feeding routine before buying them, especially if you want a pair or group.
Peacock gudgeon care at a glance
| Requirement | Practical guidance |
|---|---|
| Adult size | Approximately 2–3 inches; females usually smaller |
| Aquarium | A 20-gallon long is a practical starting point for a pair; use more space for groups or communities |
| Temperature | A stable 75–79°F is a useful everyday target |
| pH and hardness | About pH 6.5–7.5; soft to moderately hard water |
| Water quality | 0 ppm ammonia and nitrite; keep nitrate low through maintenance |
| Diet | Varied small live or thawed frozen foods, plus suitable prepared foods they accept |
| Habitat | Plants, multiple caves, gentle filtration and a secure lid |
The tank size is a planning recommendation, not a gallons-per-fish formula. Surface area, cover, sex ratio and the other inhabitants affect what works. Confirm the seller’s water conditions and avoid abrupt changes.
Identification and natural background
These fish have blue-toned bodies with red or orange markings and a conspicuous dark spot at the base of the tail. Despite the alternative name “peacock goby,” they belong to the sleeper group, Eleotridae. They are freshwater fish; routine salt or a brackish setup is unnecessary.
Aquarium Industries’ species sheet describes their origin in eastern Papua New Guinea, adult size and preference for vegetated, slow-flowing habitat. Do not confuse their availability in overseas aquarium shops with their natural geographic range.
Set up a planted aquarium with separate retreats
Cycle the filter before adding fish. Use a heater and separate thermometer where needed, and choose filtration that maintains clean water without a powerful jet through the resting areas. A secure cover should close gaps around equipment.
Arrange plants and wood to break up long sightlines, while leaving open feeding areas. Java fern and Anubias can provide cover without needing deep planting. Provide several smooth caves or aquarium-safe tubes so a fish can retreat without being cornered by another.
Sand or smooth fine gravel can work. Avoid sharp edges, unstable rock piles and holes that might trap a fish. Use a consistent lighting schedule with shaded areas rather than trying to illuminate a fixed percentage of the tank.
Aquarium Dietzenbach’s care profile supports gentle flow, dense cover and several caves. Our aquarium basics guide explains cycling and routine equipment setup.
Pairs, groups and tank mates
A compatible pair is a manageable starting point. A larger planted aquarium can accommodate a small group, but males may defend caves, particularly during spawning. Add enough separate retreats and observe the fish rather than assuming that a fixed group size guarantees peace.
Brief displays differ from persistent chasing that prevents a fish from eating or resting. Have suitable separate accommodation available if one individual is repeatedly excluded. Do not solve a territorial problem by adding more fish to an already crowded tank.
Choose peaceful companions with overlapping water requirements and modest feeding speed. Small, calm schooling fish may work in a sufficiently large community. Avoid large predators, fin nippers and species that monopolize food or caves.
Small shrimp and fry may be eaten. A gudgeon’s peaceful reputation does not make it safe for a shrimp-breeding aquarium. Stock for the welfare of every animal rather than treating the gudgeon as decoration.
Feeding: check what each fish actually eats
Offer varied, appropriately sized meaty foods such as thawed frozen brine shrimp, daphnia and insect larvae. Suitable fine pellets or other prepared foods can add variety if accepted. Do not assume every newly purchased gudgeon will immediately thrive on flakes alone.
Feed small portions once or twice daily and watch each fish take food. Deliver some near a shy individual’s shelter if faster companions intercept everything. Remove leftovers and adjust quantities to body condition and waste.
Ask the retailer what the fish has been eating and, where possible, watch it feed before purchase. A varied diet is more useful than relying entirely on one treat food. Avoid introducing live foods from uncertain sources into the aquarium.
Maintenance and health
Check temperature and behavior daily. Test water regularly and after changes to stocking or equipment. Begin with weekly partial water changes, adjusting their size to test results and waste levels rather than waiting a month regardless of conditions.
Condition replacement tap water for chlorine and chloramine and match temperature. Siphon loose waste without uprooting the whole layout, and preserve established biological filter media. Use our water test kit guide to choose the right tests.
Reduced appetite, rapid breathing, persistent hiding, wounds or spots warrant attention. Check environmental conditions first, then seek a fish veterinarian’s advice if signs persist or are severe. Do not assume that raising temperature cures every white-spot problem, or attempt to pull an unidentified parasite from a fish yourself.
The Merck Veterinary Manual’s fish disease overview explains why husbandry and diagnosis matter. Quarantine new arrivals appropriately and avoid sharing wet equipment between quarantine and established tanks.
Sexing and breeding
Mature males typically develop a larger, more rounded head. Females are generally smaller and may show a yellow abdomen when ready to spawn. Juveniles are harder to sex; do not rely on color alone.
Peacock gudgeons lay adhesive eggs inside sheltered sites, and the male tends the clutch. Spawning may occur in a community aquarium, but raising young requires a plan for protection, very small foods and stable water.
Walter Hilgner’s breeding report at Aquarium Dietzenbach documents tube spawning and the use of tiny starter foods before larger foods were introduced. Exact hatch times vary with conditions, so observe development rather than applying a rigid timetable.
Have a suitable rearing setup and food supply ready before attempting to raise a batch. For everyday keeping, focus first on fish that eat reliably, maintain good condition and can use their shelters without constant harassment.
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