Fish Care Guides

Practical, species-specific fish care guides covering aquarium setup, water conditions, feeding, compatibility, health, and long-term husbandry.

Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp – Top 10 Best Shrimps for Aquarium

Trevor Aquarium Basics, Aquarium Equipment, Aquatic Life (info & tips), Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp (info and tips), Shrimp (guides) , , 0 Comment
Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp

Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp : It does not matter if you are looking for a new entry into your community tank or if you are breeding.

Freshwater aquarium shrimp are some of the most interesting and beautiful creatures you can have in a tank.

Comparison Table

CustomSiteStripe ImageTitleReviewBuy
TopBest PickGhost Shrimp4.3/5.0Check Price
Top PerformanceAmano Shrimp4.4/5.0Check Price
cheapestPanda Shrimp4.2/5.0Check Price

However, they are not all the same. There are a few things to consider before adding freshwater shrimp to an aquarium.

The first decision is what type of shrimp works best in your tank.

Let’s take a closer look at some of the most popular aquarium shrimp to help you decide.

They are fascinating creatures and your aquarium will reap the rewards for grazing algae or leaking food organisms. These organisms are a perfect addition to community tanks that contain small, peaceful fish species, such as the Rummy Nose Tetra.

In this article we cover the best freshwater prawns for aquariums and provide you with the basic knowledge necessary to keep them in your home aquarium.

 

The 10 Best Freshwater Aquarium Shrimps

Some types of aquarium shrimp can be placed in community tanks, while others are better off setting up their own colony in a designated aquarium.

What you want to achieve with your shrimp determines which type of shrimp is right for you.

If you are thinking of giving new life to your aquarium, here are the 10 best freshwater aquarium shrimp to consider:

 

1. Red Cherry Shrimp

These species are one of the most popular because of their bright and beautiful color and because they are easy to maintain.

They work well for common tanks as long as there are no aggressive fish.

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2. Bamboo Shrimp

This type is also known as wood shrimp. They are reddish brown in color and tend to grow up to 4.5 inches.

taller than men and can reach a size of approximately 4.7 cm. Women also have slightly smaller front legs than men, which is useful when it comes to sexing them for breeding purposes.

Bamboo shrimp are automatic filter feeders and have special fans that collect food particles from the water and put the food in their mouths. These shrimp can be fed a variety of foods, including freshly hatched brine shrimp, powdered fish flakes, and algae powder.

Because this species is larger than each of the dwarf variants, you will need a larger tank (at least 20 gallons). They work well for a water temperature of 68-77 ° F and a pH of 6.5-7.5.

3. Ghost Shrimp

If you are looking for the easiest shrimp to care for, it is definitely the ghost shrimp.

They’re great for first-time shrimp owners and are great scavengers, making them a great addition to a non-aggressive community tank.

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4. Bee Shrimp

Bee shrimp are one of the most diverse freshwater shrimp in the hobby with more than a dozen selectively bred color variants. One of the most common species is the Black Bee variety, from which many other variations have been selectively bred.

Black bee shrimp are small and only 1 inch long. The color of this subspecies is white with black bars extending the length of the body.

They are generally more difficult to maintain than other species in the industry and are not recommended for beginners. They prefer warm water at 68-78 ° F with a pH of 5.8-6.8.

5. Snowball Shrimp

Snowball Shrimp is another variety that is very easy to care for and a good option for beginners.

They can tolerate more fluctuations in water balance and eat almost everything. They are also fast breeders who will form a colony in no time.

6. Amano Shrimp

 

Amano shrimp have a reputation for fighting algae. For this reason, legendary aquarist Takashi Amano introduced them to commerce in the 1980s.

Since then, their popularity has been booming and they are the second most popular freshwater crustacean after cherry shrimp.

They grow to about 5 cm tall, making them one of the greatest hobby gardeners. They have a transparent gray color and the females have long lines along their bodies, while the males have uniformly distributed dots. The color of these marks can be reddish brown or teal.

These freshwater shrimp thrive in planted aquariums with a water temperature of 70-80 ° F and a pH of around 6.0-7.0. Breeding in captivity is not very common as the hatchling hatches in salty water before returning to fresh water as it grows.

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7. Blue Tiger Shrimp

This is another beautiful shrimp that will add a pop of color to any tank.

They are easy to care for as long as they are very sensitive to ammonia and nitrate. Therefore, it is very important not to overfeed them.

8. Red Cherry Shrimp

Cherry red shrimp carries some other common names, such as cherry, fire, and sakura shrimp. The name used actually depends on the individual’s color class.

Women tend to have a more intense red color than their male counterparts, which are paler red. They also have a rounder center section and are larger.

They are some of the easiest to maintain and arguably the most common hobby tension.

If you keep these shrimp, they will need a pH of 6.5 to 8.0 water and the temperature should remain constant (65 to 85 ° F).

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9. Panda Shrimp

Panda shrimp, named for their striking black-and-white patterns, are striking and slightly rarer than most of the other shrimp we’ve listed.

They are very sensitive to water changes and reproduce very slowly.

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10. Crystal Shrimp

Also called Crystal Red or Red Bee Shrimp. Its colors and patterns differ between individuals. However, the most common is a white background with deep red spots or bars throughout the body.

Unfortunately, this freshwater shrimp is not for beginners.

This is because they require a lot of maintenance because they require certain water parameters as well as regular water changes.

However, by adding plants to the aquarium, they absorb excess nitrates, completing the nitrogen cycle.

They should be kept in fresh water with a pH of 5.8 to 7.5 and the water temperature should remain constant between 62 and 76 ° F.

Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp Tank Companions

Unfortunately, most fish are not friendly companions to shrimp, especially if you want to raise them, and small shrimp make a quick and easy meal for even the smallest aquarium fish.

There are some fish that can live peacefully with freshwater shrimp. Ottoman cats and small plecos have sucking mouths and leave the shrimp alone.

If you don’t plan on raising and raising youth, of course there are still a few options. Guppies and Tetras are great tankmates. You can eat the babies, but they are too small to bother adult shrimp.

A good rule of thumb is that any fish that is not aggressive breed and has a mouth too small to eat an adult shrimp can probably be safely placed in the tank.

While most fish species have a stereotypical temperament, keep in mind that everything really depends on each fish. They also have personalities, and just because a species of fish is classified as “non-aggressive” does not mean that the individual fish does not.

Snails are a good option. Some, like Red Ramshorns, Spixi, or Trumpet Snails, may actually benefit your tank. They will not eat live plants and are great scavengers. And most of all, they don’t eat shrimp, not even babies.

Each of these types of snails also has other advantages. Red horns take care of uneaten food and even eat algae out of the glass. They come in some bright colors and are a nice addition to a shrimp tank.

Trumpet snails bury themselves in the substrate, which helps oxygenate it, which can help build useful bacterial colonies that are so important to a thriving tank environment. They only come out at night and when it’s time to eat. They also trap uneaten food and help keep the aquarium clean.

Spixi snails are a variety of apple snails. They are much larger than the other two snails mentioned and should not be kept in small aquariums. However, if you have a large aquarium, take care of algae and uneaten food. They also leave the shrimp alone.

If you plan to keep dwarf shrimp but don’t raise or raise them young, there are plenty of fish that make great aquarium companions. Endler’s life bearers, guppies, many types of tetras, and most types of killis are excellent roommates.

Again, it is very important to consider the aggressiveness of the fish you want to combine with the shrimp.

Another thing to consider is size. If a non-aggressive fish has a mouth that is less than half the size of a full-size shrimp, the fish cannot eat it. That said, if they are aggressive, they can still hurt shrimp or cause a lot of stress. Another reason why aggressive fish should be avoided.

How do I care for freshwater aquarium shrimp?
To understand the basic supply of these shrimp, it is useful to consider where they live in the wild. Most of the popular breeds of freshwater shrimp come from East Asia.

Ghost shrimp native to the southern United States are the only exception.

Their origins really affect the type of environment they like, especially when it comes to water temperature and pH.

Let’s start with a little more information about the type of environment in which aquarium shrimp like to live.

 

conclusion

As you can see, there are many wonderful options when it comes to freshwater shrimp. Before choosing an aquarium, there are a few things to consider.

Remember that not all shrimp work well in a community tank, especially if the mixture contains aggressive fish, as they are more likely to be eaten. Choose a variety of shrimp that works with what you already have.

If you’re thinking of growing shrimp, be sure to find a guy who does it quickly and easily. Some shrimp are difficult producers and can give you a difficult time, especially if you have shrimp for the first time.

Shrimp are an interesting and often enjoyable addition to a tank environment. Also, most species eat algae, debris, and dead plant matter, and they actually help keep the tank healthy so that everything that lives in it can thrive.

Best Filters for Turtle Tanks: 5 Current Options

Trevor Aquarium Equipment, Other (reviews), Turtles (guides), Turtles (info and tips) , , 0 Comment
Turtle in a 10-gallon tank

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Aquatic turtles produce much more solid waste than a lightly stocked fish aquarium. The best turtle-tank filter therefore needs generous mechanical-media capacity, dependable biological filtration, easy maintenance and an intake that works at the habitat’s actual water depth. For most full-size turtle aquariums, a canister filter is the most practical choice.

Aquatic turtles swimming in a filtered aquarium
A strong filter helps manage turtle waste, but it does not replace partial water changes, substrate cleaning or an appropriately sized habitat.

Quick comparison

Filter Manufacturer aquarium rating Best for Buying option
Fluval 407 50–100 gal Best all-round canister Check on Amazon
Fluval FX4 Up to 250 gal Large, heavily stocked turtle habitats Check on Amazon
Penn-Plax Cascade 1000 Elite Confirm current model rating Value canister option Check on Amazon
Zoo Med Turtle Clean 50 Turtle habitats up to 50 gal Purpose-built smaller turtle setup Check on Amazon
Tetra ReptoFilter 125 GPH Check habitat volume and water depth Shallow juvenile or small-species setups Check on Amazon

Rating caution: a fish-aquarium capacity printed on a box is not a promise that the filter can manage the waste of a turtle in a tank of that size. Compare actual circulation, media volume, intake-depth requirements and maintenance access, and choose generous capacity.

Best filters for turtle tanks

1. Fluval 407 — best overall

The Fluval 407 balances useful media capacity with manageable size. Fluval rates it for 50–100-gallon aquariums, with 383 GPH pump output, 245 GPH stated filter circulation and 4.2 liters of basket volume. Multiple baskets let you separate coarse mechanical media, finer pads and durable biological media.

It is a strong fit for a medium turtle habitat when the installed water depth and plumbing allow the canister to prime and operate correctly. As waste accumulates, real flow will fall, so clean the mechanical stages before they become packed without sterilizing all biological media.

Check the Fluval 407 on Amazon · See Fluval specifications

2. Fluval FX4 — best for a large, messy setup

The FX4 offers substantially more canister and mechanical-media area for a large turtle aquarium. Fluval lists a 700 GPH pump output, 450 GPH filter circulation, 3.7-gallon canister volume and 1-gallon biological-media volume. The utility valve can also help with controlled water removal during maintenance.

This filter is physically large and produces meaningful current. Check cabinet clearance, hose routing, outlet placement and the turtle’s ability to rest and swim without being pushed continuously. Manufacturer aquarium ratings should still be treated conservatively for turtles.

Check the Fluval FX4 on Amazon · See Fluval specifications

3. Penn-Plax Cascade 1000 Elite — value canister option

The Cascade 1000 Elite is a multi-basket external canister that provides space for staged mechanical, biological and optional chemical media. It can be a useful lower-cost alternative to premium canisters for a medium habitat.

Penn-Plax sells several Cascade sizes with similar names. Confirm the exact model, current flow and aquarium rating, included media, hose dimensions and replacement-part availability before ordering. Size for the turtle’s adult habitat, not only its current juvenile tank.

Check the Penn-Plax Cascade 1000 Elite on Amazon

4. Zoo Med Turtle Clean 50 — purpose-built compact canister

Zoo Med designed the Turtle Clean 50 for turtle tanks, tubs and similar habitats up to 50 gallons. The company lists 200 GPH, mechanical, biological and chemical media, easy priming and an included spray bar.

This model is useful when a standard aquarium canister’s intake arrangement does not suit a smaller turtle setup. Zoo Med says the motor head should be level with or below the waterline, so confirm that the planned water depth and stand position meet the installation requirements.

Check the Zoo Med Turtle Clean 50 on Amazon · See Zoo Med setup and maintenance guidance

5. Tetra ReptoFilter 125 GPH — for shallow smaller habitats

The internal Tetra ReptoFilter is intended for terrariums and turtle setups where a conventional canister intake may not work at the lower water level. Its 125 GPH rating and compact internal design suit a smaller habitat or juvenile setup rather than a large adult turtle aquarium.

Internal filters occupy swimming space and hold less waste than large canisters, so expect more frequent service. Guard the cord and installation so a turtle cannot dislodge the filter, become trapped or rest against an unsafe intake.

Check the Tetra ReptoFilter 125 GPH on Amazon

How to size a turtle filter

Start with the adult habitat

Identify the turtle species and expected adult shell size before choosing the tank or filter. Many commonly sold aquatic turtles grow far larger than buyers expect. A filter purchased for a small juvenile enclosure may become inadequate quickly.

Favor media capacity over headline flow

High flow helps carry waste to the intake, but a turtle filter also needs room to trap solids without clogging and to support a stable biofilter. Compare basket volume, sponge area and maintenance access. Advertised pump output is measured under favorable conditions; real circulation falls with hose height, media and accumulated debris.

Check minimum operating water depth

A turtle habitat may be only partly filled to provide a basking area or prevent escape. Canister filters depend on specific intake and canister placement for priming. Internal filters also have minimum and maximum waterline requirements. Follow the exact model’s instructions.

Control the current

Strong circulation should not pin a turtle against a surface or prevent it from resting. Aim outlets along a wall, use a spray bar where approved, and leave calm areas. Never improvise a restriction that overheats the motor or creates unsafe suction.

Recommended media arrangement

  1. Coarse mechanical foam first to collect food pieces, shed skin and large waste.
  2. Finer mechanical media to polish smaller suspended particles.
  3. Durable biological media in oxygenated flow after most solids are removed.
  4. Optional carbon or specialty media only for a defined purpose and according to its instructions.

Carbon can help with odor or removing certain medications after treatment, but it is not a substitute for an established biological filter or water changes. Zeolite and ammonia-binding products have finite capacity and should not be used to avoid cycling the habitat.

Maintenance without losing the biofilter

Turtle filters collect solids quickly. Inspect flow and service mechanical media before it becomes heavily clogged. Rinse reusable sponges in removed tank water and replace fine disposable pads when they break down. Biological media usually needs only gentle partial rinsing when debris restricts flow.

Do not replace every sponge, cartridge and biological medium on the same day. Beneficial microorganisms live on these surfaces, and removing them can cause ammonia or nitrite to rise. Test both after major maintenance, a long power interruption or any unexplained change in water quality.

Filtration does not replace water changes

A filter converts and traps waste; it does not remove everything from the system. Perform regular partial water changes, siphon settled debris and remove uneaten food. Use a conditioner appropriate for chlorine or chloramine in the source water and match the replacement-water temperature reasonably closely.

Frequency depends on habitat volume, turtle size, feeding and test results. Ammonia and nitrite should remain at zero in a cycled habitat. Rising nitrate, odor or cloudy water calls for testing and corrective maintenance rather than a fragrance or clarifying product.

Installation and electrical safety

  • Use a GFCI/RCD-protected outlet and form drip loops in all cords.
  • Keep power connections dry and unplug equipment before putting hands in the water.
  • Secure intakes, outlets and hoses so a strong turtle cannot detach them.
  • Use an intake guard and inspect it for blockage; protect small turtles from unsafe suction.
  • Keep the filter accessible—equipment that is difficult to service is more likely to be neglected.
  • Never run a canister or submerged motor dry.

Frequently asked questions

Does a turtle tank really need a filter?

Yes. A filter is essential for dependable mechanical and biological waste processing, but it must be combined with water changes and cleaning.

Can I use a fish-tank filter for a turtle?

Yes, if it works at the habitat’s water depth, offers generous real-world capacity and can be installed safely. Manufacturer fish-aquarium ratings should be treated conservatively because turtles create a heavy waste load.

How often should I clean a turtle filter?

Clean mechanical stages when flow declines or collected debris begins to accumulate substantially. The interval varies with the turtle, tank and filter. Preserve biological media and never wait until the filter is completely blocked.

Can I turn the filter off at night?

No. Biological filtration needs continuous oxygenated flow. Extended shutoff can damage the biofilter and allow stagnant water to develop inside a canister.

Our verdict

The Fluval 407 is the most balanced option for a medium turtle habitat. The Fluval FX4 provides substantially more media capacity for a large or heavily stocked setup, while the Zoo Med Turtle Clean 50 is the best purpose-built compact choice. Size every filter for the adult animal and actual installation rather than trusting the box rating alone.

7 Best Floating Aquarium Plants for Beginners

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Floating aquarium plants can soften bright light, create cover for fish and fry, and take up dissolved nutrients—but they grow quickly and are not legal to own or transport everywhere. The best beginner choices are Amazon frogbit, red root floater, common duckweed, water spangles, dwarf water lettuce, Azolla, and hornwort used as a free-floating submerged plant.

Always confirm the scientific name and your local biosecurity rules before buying. Never release aquarium plants, fragments, or water into drains, ponds, streams, or wetlands. Compost or seal unwanted plants according to local guidance.

Quick Comparison

Plant Growth Best feature Main caution
Amazon frogbit Moderate to fast Long hanging roots Dislikes wet leaf tops and strong flow
Red root floater Moderate Red color under suitable conditions Needs stable light and nutrients
Common duckweed Very fast Tiny leaves suit small tanks Difficult to remove completely
Water spangles Fast Textured paired leaves May be regulated; verify species
Dwarf water lettuce Fast Large rosettes and roots Often unsuitable for small covered tanks
Azolla Fast Fine fern-like surface mat Some species are prohibited
Hornwort Fast Submerged cover without planting Can shed brittle leaves

Before Adding Any Floating Plant

  • Check legality: restrictions vary by country, state, and even species within a genus.
  • Quarantine: inspect for snails, eggs, algae, duckweed hitchhikers, pesticides, and decay.
  • Protect equipment: use a floating ring or corral to keep plants away from filter intakes and feeding areas.
  • Leave open surface: do not allow a solid mat to block gas exchange, feeding, or access for labyrinth fish.
  • Match light and flow: floating leaves often scorch close to strong lights and are damaged by splashing.

1. Amazon Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum)

Amazon frogbit floating at the aquarium surface

Amazon frogbit forms round floating leaves and long branching roots that offer attractive cover. It is easier to handle than duckweed because each rosette is larger, but healthy plants can still multiply quickly.

Keep the upper leaf surfaces mostly dry, provide gentle circulation, and thin crowded plants before they overlap heavily. Long roots may need occasional trimming with clean scissors if they obstruct the tank, but never remove every root from a rosette.

2. Red Root Floater (Phyllanthus fluitans)

Red root floater leaves and roots in an aquarium

Red root floater can develop reddish leaves and roots when light, nutrition, and other conditions suit it. Color is not guaranteed, and pushing light intensity merely to force red growth can overheat or unbalance a tank.

This plant prefers calm water and consistent access to nutrients. Pale new growth may indicate a nutrient or lighting problem, but diagnose the whole aquarium before adding fertilizer. Excess fertilizer can harm livestock and encourage algae.

3. Common Duckweed (Lemna minor and Related Species)

Small duckweed fronds covering part of an aquarium surface

Duckweed is tiny, adaptable, and extremely quick to spread. It can provide shade and nutrient uptake, but it enters filter compartments, sticks to tools, and is notoriously difficult to eradicate. Choose it only if you are comfortable removing handfuls regularly.

Keep a clear feeding opening and rinse equipment over a container—not a sink. Never flush excess duckweed or discard it outdoors.

4. Water Spangles (Salvinia minima)

Water spangles Salvinia minima floating plant

Water spangles have paired, textured floating leaves and a submerged leaf that resembles roots. They make an attractive surface mat and usually tolerate a range of aquarium conditions when the surface is calm.

Correct identification is essential. The Salvinia genus includes highly invasive and regulated species, and plants can be mislabeled or mixed in trade. Do not order or transport any Salvinia until local authorities confirm it is permitted.

5. Dwarf Water Lettuce (Pistia stratiotes)

Dwarf water lettuce forms velvety rosettes with long roots. Despite the trade name, it is the same species as larger water lettuce and size depends strongly on conditions. It can outgrow small tanks and may struggle when condensation repeatedly wets the leaves under a close-fitting lid.

Pistia stratiotes is invasive or prohibited in various regions. Buy only from a legal local source, keep it fully contained, and dispose of trimmings securely.

6. Azolla or Mosquito Fern (Azolla Species)

Azolla mosquito fern forming a floating surface mat

Azolla is a tiny floating fern that can shift from green toward red or bronze in response to conditions. Its delicate branching mats provide shade but break into small pieces during maintenance and spread rapidly.

Confirm the exact species. Some Azolla species are regulated weeds, and common names are unreliable. Treat every fragment as live material when disposing of it.

7. Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)

Hornwort stems growing free-floating below the water surface

Hornwort is different from the surface plants above: its stems float below the water rather than carrying leaves in air. It provides dense submerged cover without substrate and can be useful for fry or shrimp tanks.

Growth can be fast, and stressed stems may shed needle-like leaves that collect around filters and décor. Thin it from the base of the mass so the remaining stems receive light and flow. Check local rules because it can behave invasively outside its native range.

Plants Commonly Misclassified as Floaters

Java moss, water wisteria, and Cabomba can survive unattached or drift temporarily, but they are not true free-floating surface plants. Java moss normally performs better attached to wood or rock. Water wisteria and Cabomba are stem plants that usually grow more predictably when planted or deliberately anchored. Calling every unplanted stem a floating plant makes care advice confusing.

How to Quarantine New Plants

  1. Confirm the scientific name and legal status before purchase.
  2. Place new plants in a separate, fish-free container with suitable light and temperature.
  3. Inspect leaves and roots for snails, eggs, insects, algae, and damage.
  4. Remove packing material and rinse with conditioned water.
  5. Observe long enough to detect hitchhikers or pesticide damage before introducing plants to sensitive shrimp or fish.

Do not use bleach, alum, copper, or pesticides casually. Concentrations, exposure times, and plant tolerance vary, and residues can harm invertebrates. Physical inspection and quarantine are safer starting points.

Managing Surface Coverage

Aim for a patchy surface with open areas for feeding, gas exchange, and light to submerged plants. There is no universal percentage because fish behavior, lighting, filtration, and plant density differ. Thin plants when they stack, block equipment, trap excessive debris, or cause shaded plants below to decline.

Floating corrals made from airline tubing can preserve openings around the filter and feeding zone. During water changes, remove excess plants first so fragments do not enter drains.

Do Floating Plants Remove Nitrate?

Growing plants take up nitrogen and other nutrients, and removing harvested plant mass exports some of those nutrients from the aquarium. They do not replace a cycled filter, testing, appropriate stocking, or water changes. If ammonia or nitrite is detectable, address the cause immediately instead of adding plants as a cure.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why are my floating plants turning yellow?

Possible causes include inadequate or imbalanced nutrients, overly intense light, wet leaf tops, strong flow, temperature stress, or newly imported plants adjusting. Test water and change one factor at a time.

Are floating plants good for bettas?

They can provide shade and cover, but leave open access to the surface because bettas breathe atmospheric air. Avoid a dense mat and keep plants away from the filter return.

Can floating plants stop algae?

They may compete for light and nutrients, but they are not a guaranteed algae treatment. Control excess light, feeding, waste, and unstable maintenance as well.

Can I throw excess plants in the garden?

Not safely in every climate. Fragments may reach waterways through rain or drainage. Follow local invasive-species disposal guidance; sealed household waste or thoroughly dried material may be required.

Best Choice for Beginners

Amazon frogbit is a manageable first choice where it is legal and the tank has gentle flow. Red root floater suits keepers willing to provide more consistent light and nutrition. Duckweed is easy to grow but hard to remove. Whichever plant you choose, verify its identity, quarantine it, keep part of the surface open, and dispose of every trimming responsibly.

Continue with our guides to aquascaping plants, cold-water aquarium plants, and low-light aquarium plants.

Biosecurity Sources

Freshwater Aquarium Sharks: Species, Sizes and Care

Trevor Aquarium Basics, Aquatic Life (info & tips), Fish Care Guides, Freshwater Aquarium Sharks (Care Guides), Freshwater Fish (info and tips) , , 0 Comment

Freshwater aquarium “sharks” are not true sharks. They are unrelated cyprinids and catfish with a shark-like outline. The best realistic choices for a suitably large home aquarium are rainbow sharks, red-tail black sharks and—only with substantially more swimming room—a properly sized school of roseline or bala sharks. Several fish sold under the shark label grow far too large for ordinary aquariums.

Freshwater shark suitability at a glance

Common name Approximate adult length Social need Home-aquarium verdict
Rainbow shark About 6 in (15 cm) Usually one per tank; territorial Reasonable with a large footprint and compatible fish
Red-tail black shark About 6 in (15 cm) Usually solitary; territorial Reasonable for experienced keepers
Roseline shark / Denison barb About 6 in (15 cm) Active school Needs a long, oxygen-rich aquarium
Bala shark 12–14 in (30–35 cm) Schooling Only for very large, long aquariums
Silver Apollo shark About 10–12 in (25–30 cm) Fast-moving school Specialist, very large aquarium
Iridescent shark Can exceed 3 ft (1 m) Large, nervous schooling catfish Not suitable for normal home aquariums
Black sharkminnow Can approach 3 ft (90 cm) Large and increasingly territorial Not suitable for normal home aquariums

Adult size varies with species, sex and conditions. Never use a small juvenile’s shop size as the housing standard.

1. Rainbow shark

Rainbow shark Epalzeorhynchos frenatum in an aquarium
Rainbow sharks need floor space and visual barriers because adults defend territories.

The rainbow shark (Epalzeorhynchos frenatum) is one of the more manageable “sharks,” but it is not a peaceful algae-cleaning tool. Adults often defend caves, wood and the lower part of the aquarium. Use a long tank with multiple sight breaks, and avoid similarly shaped bottom-dwellers that cannot escape its territory.

2. Red-tail black shark

Red-tail black shark Epalzeorhynchos bicolor
The red-tail black shark is striking but commonly becomes territorial as it matures.

The red-tail black shark (Epalzeorhynchos bicolor) has similar husbandry challenges and is usually kept as the only member of its species. Provide secure caves without dead ends, open swimming space and robust tank mates that occupy other areas. Do not combine it casually with a rainbow shark.

3. Roseline shark (Denison barb)

Schooling roseline sharks or Denison barbs
Roseline sharks are active schooling barbs, not solitary centerpiece fish.

The roseline shark (Sahyadria denisonii) is a streamlined barb from flowing waters. Keep a genuine group in a long aquarium with strong oxygenation, clean water and uninterrupted swimming space. Buy captive-bred stock where available and check local sourcing rules because wild populations have faced collection pressure.

4. Bala shark

Bala shark Balantiocheilos melanopterus
Bala sharks become large, fast schooling fish and need far more room than juveniles suggest.

Bala sharks (Balantiocheilos melanopterus) are peaceful but frequently mis-sold for medium community tanks. They grow to roughly 12–14 inches, should not be kept singly and can injure themselves when startled. A very long aquarium with a tight lid is essential; many owners will be better served by a smaller schooling barb.

5. Silver Apollo shark

Silver Apollo shark Luciosoma species
Silver Apollo sharks are fast surface-oriented schooling fish for specialist large systems.

Fish sold as silver Apollo sharks are typically Luciosoma species. They are rapid, open-water swimmers that need a group, a long covered aquarium and high dissolved oxygen. Confirm the scientific name before purchase because common names are used inconsistently.

Species that ordinary home aquariums should avoid

Iridescent shark catfish

Juvenile iridescent shark catfish Pangasianodon hypophthalmus
Juvenile iridescent sharks are small in shops, but adults are public-aquarium-scale fish.

The iridescent shark (Pangasianodon hypophthalmus) can exceed a meter, is powerful and easily panicked, and is not a responsible purchase for a normal home tank. Restricted space does not safely keep it small. Do not buy one on the assumption that a larger home will be easy to find later.

Colombian shark catfish

Colombian shark catfish Ariopsis seemanni
Colombian shark catfish require a planned transition from freshwater toward brackish or marine conditions.

The Colombian shark catfish (Ariopsis seemanni) is often sold in freshwater when young, but its natural life history involves increasingly saline water. It grows large, is social and has venomous fin spines. It belongs with an experienced brackish-to-marine keeper, not in a standard freshwater community.

Black sharkminnow

Large black sharkminnow Labeo chrysophekadion
The black sharkminnow becomes extremely large and territorial.

The black sharkminnow (Labeo chrysophekadion) can approach 3 feet and becomes a formidable fish. It is inappropriate for ordinary home aquariums. A shop label that omits the scientific name is a reason to pause, not guess.

Tank setup for suitable species

  • Prioritize length and footprint. Active schooling species need distance; territorial species need distinct zones.
  • Cycle before purchase. Ammonia and nitrite should remain at zero, with nitrate managed by stocking, plants and water changes.
  • Provide oxygen and flow. Keepers of riverine species need strong gas exchange without creating areas where fish cannot rest.
  • Use a secure lid. Bala, roseline and Apollo sharks can jump or collide with covers when startled.
  • Build safe retreats. Anchor rocks and wood securely and avoid narrow caves that a growing fish may become trapped in.

Feeding

Most aquarium “sharks” are omnivores or specialized grazers rather than tank cleaners. Offer an appropriate quality staple plus plant material and small invertebrate foods where the species requires them. Make sure schooling and bottom-dwelling fish actually receive food, remove leftovers and judge portions by body condition and water quality.

Choosing tank mates

Match adult size, temperature, water chemistry, swimming speed and temperament. Avoid slow, long-finned fish with boisterous schools, and avoid combining multiple territorial Epalzeorhynchos in a modest footprint. Any fish small enough to swallow may become prey for larger species.

Before buying: five essential questions

  1. What is the verified scientific name?
  2. What adult length and social group does it require?
  3. Can the current enclosure house the adult for its full life?
  4. Is the species freshwater throughout life?
  5. Is captive-bred, legally sourced stock available?

Frequently asked questions

Can freshwater sharks live in a 20- or 30-gallon tank?

Not the species covered here as permanent adults. Even the smaller rainbow and red-tail sharks need a substantially larger footprint and territorial space.

Do freshwater sharks eat algae?

Some graze surfaces, but none should be purchased as a maintenance shortcut. They still need species-appropriate food, and algae is controlled by light, nutrients and aquarium care.

Can bala sharks be kept alone?

No. They are schooling fish, but providing a proper group greatly increases the required aquarium size. A smaller schooling species is the ethical choice when space is limited.

Are freshwater sharks dangerous to people?

Most listed cyprinids are not, although large fish can bite or thrash. Exercise normal care when netting or handling any unfamiliar species, and check whether it has defensive spines.

References and further checking

Final recommendation

For most capable home keepers, a single rainbow shark or red-tail black shark is more realistic than a large schooling “shark.” Roseline sharks suit long, oxygen-rich group setups. Bala sharks demand genuinely enormous space, while the largest and migratory species should be left to specialist-scale systems.

What Fish Can Live With Goldfish? – 10 Best Goldfish Tank Mates List

Trevor Aquarium Basics, Aquatic Life (info & tips), Goldfish (care) , 0 Comment
What Fish Can Live With Goldfish? – 10 Best Goldfish Tank Mates List

What Fish Can Live With Goldfish?: Finding a suitable aquarium companion for a goldfish is possible, but you can’t just add a species!

There are some very important things to consider.

First, any fish added to the tank must thrive in the same environment as the goldfish, especially at water temperatures of 65ºF to 75ºF.

It is equally important that the fish get along with each other. What does that mean exactly?

A few things: The new fish will not harm the gold fish, the gold fish cannot eat the new fish, and the goldfish still has the space it needs to grow.

Each type of fish has different needs. For example, some fish like warm water, others like cold water, others like salty water, others do not. Since you want all of your fish to be healthy and happy, it is important to choose tankmates who like similar conditions.

 

What Fish Can Live With Goldfish?

10 Best Goldfish Tank Mates List

 

1. Other Goldfish

Adding another gold fish of the same size and type is one of the easiest ways to add another fish to your fish tank.

Keep in mind that goldfish are omnivores and can be predators. It is important that the tank mates are coordinated uniformly.

Be very careful with the size. Large goldfish eat smaller ones, so they must be the same size.

Also, fancy goldfish tend to move slower than common ones and are unlikely to compete for food.

 

2. Bristlenose Pleco

Bristlenose’s plecos are much smaller than common plecos, which can grow up to 15 inches. Therefore, the bristle plecos fall into a useful sweet spot that is small enough to fit in many goldfish aquariums without being so small that the goldfish can eat them.

Choosing a pleco that lives with your goldfish also has a great advantage: the plecos like to eat seaweed so that your tank stays nice and clean!

And while some plecos are known to suck on goldfish scales, which often leads to serious injury, this problem is rarely reported with Bristlenose Pleco.

 

3. White Cloud Mountain Minnows

The main reason White Cloud Mountain Minnows goes well with goldfish is that they are cold-water fish that perform well in the same environment as goldfish.

They pick fish and they don’t do well on their own, so you should add at least 3, although 6 is better.

White Cloud Mountain Minnows are also very fast and can generally flood gold fish, making them less likely to hunt.

 

4. Black Skirt Tetra

Advantages of keeping Black Rock Tetras with goldfish:

Black Skirt Tetras are robust and easy to care for.

They are fast and can reach goldfish if necessary.

Like the Platy, Black Skirt Tetras are usually too big for goldfish to try to eat.

Disadvantages of storing Black Rock Tetras with goldfish:

You need space in your goldfish tank for a school with six or more black rock tetras.

They are not always the most alive fish.

There is a certain risk that Black Skirt Tetra’s gold fish fins may get caught.

 

5. Rosy Barbs

Pink spikes like the same type of water as goldfish. They also become 4-6 inches long, so they also fit the size well.

They are not aggressive fish and leave their gold fish alone. They are too big for you to eat your gold fish.

Remember that pink spikes train fish and are very stressed when alone or in small groups. They must be kept in groups of at least 6.

 

6. Bloodfin Tetra

Advantages of storing Bloodfin Tetras with goldfish:

Bloodfin tetras are robust, very good for beginners.

They are also fast and can beat goldfish if need be.

Disadvantages of keeping Bloodfin Tetras with goldfish:

You need enough space in your fish tank for a school with at least 5 Bloodfin Tetras.

There is a certain risk that Bloodfin Tetras will suffocate goldfish.

At just over 5 cm, the Bloodfin Tetras are large enough to live safely with goldfish.

 

7. Rubbernose and Bristlenose Plecos

Both the rubber tip and bristle tip make excellent tankmates for a goldfish. Plecos are calm fish that generally leave your gold fish alone.

You spend most of the day eating rock and grass algae, which also helps keep your tank clean.

 

8. Checker Barb

Benefits of keeping tabs with gold fish:

The spikes are a calm fish that pairs well with community tanks.

They are fast, so elegant goldfish that tend to be slow swimmers can overflow.

Disadvantages of keeping concealer picks with goldfish:

Checkered spikes are big enough to live safely with goldfish. Therefore, there is a certain risk that larger goldfish will try to eat spikes.

You not only need space for one, but also for a Checker Barbs school.

 

9. Weather or Dojo Loaches

Weather loaches or dojo loaches are another great option as they are cold water fish that thrive in the same environment.

These loaches should be kept in groups of 3 or more and enjoy building. Therefore, make sure that they are covered with fine gravel or sand substrate.

The loaches also take up a lot of space by themselves, so you’ll need a fairly large tank to house them with goldfish.

 

10. Corydoras Catfish

Benefits of keeping Corydoras catfish with goldfish:

Corydoras chases food debris down the tank and eats it instead of letting it rot, which helps keep the tank clean

They are very peaceful and will certainly not cause any problems for your goldfish. The opposite does not necessarily have to be the case.

Disadvantages of keeping Corydoras catfish with goldfish:

Since your corydoras live at the bottom of the tank, you may have a hard time feeding them without your goldfish searching for food first.

Corydoras are school fish, so you need space to keep a small group.

As with other smaller fish on this list, there is a chance that goldfish will try to eat them.

 

How many fish can I add to a goldfish bowl?

So once you have a tank big enough for your goldfish, you’re probably ready to add your tankmates.

Overcrowding has many serious health effects. The more fish you have, the faster the water quality will decrease. Fish also become aggressive when overcrowded, causing injury and possible infection.

The amount of fish you can add to a goldfish tank depends on the type of fish. It’s best to spend time examining the fish you want to add to determine how much space they need.

It is a good idea to follow the rule of how much space your goldfish needs and then add additional gallons to accommodate the additional fish. Why?

Since the goldfish is quite a messy fish, overcrowding quickly leads to dirty water.

Carefully research the type of fish you want to add and make sure they have the space they need. If you choose a school fish, be sure to add enough to make it happy in your new home.

 

conclusion

Building a community tank around a gold fish is not easy, but with careful planning, you can. A carefully planned combination of fish in the right environment can lead to a successful aquarium that is fun to watch.

The most important thing is that you use a tank that is big enough for all your fish to thrive. Remember that goldfish need a lot of space for them. If you keep them in a tank that is too small, they will hamper their growth and shorten their life.

6 Best Saltwater Fish for Beginners: Tank and Care Guide

Trevor Aquarium Basics, Aquatic Life (info & tips), Beginners (guides), Marine (info and tips) , , , 0 Comment
Orange clownfish with white bands beside reef habitat

Captive-bred ocellaris clownfish are a practical first choice for a properly cycled saltwater aquarium. Neon gobies, yellow watchman gobies, royal grammas, firefish and orchid dottybacks offer other possibilities, but their feeding, shelter and territory needs differ. Choose the fish for your finished tank, rather than buying a collection of colorful juveniles and hoping they will fit.

This guide covers marine fish. If you are still deciding between freshwater and saltwater, start with our aquarium setup basics. “Beginner-friendly” means manageable with preparation; it does not mean tolerant of an uncycled tank or missed maintenance.

Orange clownfish with white bands beside reef habitat
Small clownfish can be suitable first marine fish. An anemone is not required.

Six beginner saltwater fish to consider

The tank sizes below are conservative planning recommendations for a first setup, not universal biological minimums. Gallons refer to the display aquarium, not extra sump water. Footprint, rockwork, adult territory and the complete stocking plan matter. This table is a shortlist of alternatives, not permission to put all six fish together.

Fish Suggested starting display Main advantage Important limit
Ocellaris clownfish 20 gallons (76 L) or larger; more for tank mates Captive-bred fish commonly accept prepared food A pair can defend its territory
Neon goby 20 gallons (76 L) or larger for a beginner Small, interesting perching fish Needs appropriately small meals and protection from predators
Yellow watchman goby 30 gallons (114 L) or larger Burrow-watching behavior Needs secure rockwork and food delivered near its refuge
Royal gramma 30 gallons (114 L) or larger Small, vividly colored cave dweller Defends its cave; avoid similar territorial fish
Firefish 20 gallons (76 L) or larger; more for a community Peaceful hovering behavior Very prone to jumping and intimidation
Orchid dottyback 30 gallons (114 L) or larger Captive-bred option with striking color Territorial; a conditional choice for confident tank mates

1. Captive-bred ocellaris clownfish

Amphiprion ocellaris is the familiar orange-and-white clownfish, although captive-bred color forms vary. It stays much smaller than some other clownfish species and is usually straightforward to feed. OATA lists ocellaris and percula among the smaller clownfish, generally under about 4 inches (10 cm).

Choose a healthy captive-bred fish or an established compatible pair. Two juveniles may form a pair, but persistent chasing, injury or exclusion from food requires intervention. Avoid mixing clownfish species in a beginner tank. Maroon and other larger clownfish are not interchangeable with ocellaris.

You do not need an anemone. Adding one introduces separate lighting, stability and animal-care requirements. Provide shelter, swimming room and an appropriate marine diet first. See OATA’s clownfish care guidance.

2. Neon goby

Elacatinus oceanops reaches about 2 inches (5 cm) and has a bright blue stripe along a dark body. Captive-bred individuals can accept small frozen and dry aquarium foods. Its small mouth makes food size important: confirm that it actually swallows meals rather than simply approaching them.

Although it is a cleaner species, do not buy it as a cure for parasites or expect it to live on cleaning other fish. Feed it deliberately and avoid predatory companions. Start with one unless you have a confirmed compatible pair. Breeder availability varies; ask the retailer about origin and feeding history. ORA’s neon goby profile describes its feeding and natural behavior.

3. Yellow watchman goby

Cryptocentrus cinctus spends much of its time near a refuge. It may share a burrow with a compatible pistol shrimp, but that partnership requires its own compatibility research. Not every fish sold under a “watchman” name is this species, and some individuals are gray rather than yellow.

Provide suitable sand and rockwork that cannot collapse if sand is moved. Watch food reach the goby: a busy community can intercept everything before a shy bottom-dweller eats. ORA reports acceptance of frozen mysis, brine shrimp and pellets, and warns that watchman gobies may fight one another as they mature. Use the breeder’s species profile and OATA’s goby guidance when planning its habitat.

4. Royal gramma

Gramma loreto is purple at the front and yellow toward the tail, reaching roughly 3 inches (8 cm). It favors sheltered reef structure and can orient itself beneath an overhang. Provide a shaded cave instead of an exposed, brightly lit rock pile.

Plan for one in a beginner aquarium. Its small size does not eliminate territorial disputes, especially with other basslets or dottybacks. Do not combine it with the orchid dottyback below simply because both appear on this list. Check the scientific name when buying; similarly colored fish can behave differently. See the Nausicaá species profile and OATA’s compatibility guidance.

5. Firefish

The red firefish, Nemateleotris magnifica, is a dartfish—not a lionfish. It hovers near cover and retreats quickly when startled. A secure lid with protected cable and plumbing gaps is essential.

Keep it with calm companions that will not monopolize food or force it into hiding. One is the simplest starting arrangement; do not assume an arbitrary group will remain compatible as adults. Supply small meaty foods and a crevice it can use immediately. OATA’s dartfish care sheet explains shelter, feeding and jumping risks.

6. Captive-bred orchid dottyback

Pseudochromis fridmani is a small purple fish that accepts meaty aquarium foods. ORA describes it as moderately territorial. It is a more conditional beginner choice than the clownfish: select it only after considering the other inhabitants and providing separated hiding places.

Begin with one. Avoid similarly shaped rivals, very timid companions and small crustaceans that could become prey. “Reef compatible” does not mean harmless to every animal. Check the exact species rather than buying any purple dottyback. Read ORA’s orchid dottyback profile.

Build the aquarium before buying fish

A larger water volume is usually easier to keep stable than a tiny marine tank. Choose a display you can afford to maintain, with room for adult fish and separate territories. Equipment should include biological filtration, circulation, temperature control, a secure cover, a salinity instrument and marine water tests. Our equipment guides explain the available categories; no single product makes a tank ready for livestock.

Complete a fishless cycle using a suitable aquarium cycling product and its testing instructions. A tank that has merely stood for a week is not necessarily cycled. Confirm that the biological filter processes the supplied waste source and that ammonia and nitrite have returned to zero before stocking. Add livestock gradually. OATA’s marine setup guide provides the underlying filtration and stocking guidance.

Water care that beginners must understand

  • Temperature: around 75–79°F (24–26°C) is a useful starting range for these tropical choices; confirm the needs of every inhabitant.
  • Salinity: for a typical reef-style setup, approximately 32–35 ppt is a common planning range. Use a properly calibrated instrument and keep conditions stable.
  • Waste: maintain zero detectable ammonia and nitrite; set nitrate and phosphate targets around the actual livestock, especially corals.
  • Evaporation: replace evaporated water with fresh RO/DI water, not mixed saltwater. Salt remains when water evaporates.
  • Water changes: prepare replacement saltwater separately and match temperature and salinity before adding it.

Record test results so you can spot changes early. Do not repeatedly dose buffers to chase a number without understanding the cause. See OATA’s marine water-testing advice and our guide to RO/DI source water.

Buying, feeding and introducing your first fish

Ask for the scientific name, captive-bred status, current salinity and a feeding demonstration. Inspect breathing, body condition and the other fish in the sales system. Captive-bred does not mean disease-free.

Prepare a separate, cycled quarantine system with dedicated equipment. Obtain a species-appropriate quarantine and acclimation plan from a knowledgeable supplier or aquatic veterinarian. Transport history and differences in salinity matter; a universal timed drip routine is not suitable for every shipment. Avoid transferring transport water to the display.

Offer small portions of suitable marine food and observe every individual eating. Remove leftovers and investigate persistent hiding or refusal to eat. Rapid breathing, wounds, spots or loss of balance warrant prompt water checks and professional advice. Do not add a mixture of medications to a reef tank without diagnosis. The Merck Veterinary Manual’s routine fish-care guidance explains quarantine and monitoring.

Choosing fish beyond this shortlist

Labels such as “tangs,” “wrasses” and “dottybacks” cover fish with very different adult sizes, diets and temperaments. Research the exact species before adding one. A fish outside this shortlist may suit a carefully planned aquarium, but a broad family name or an “easy” sales label is not enough to establish suitability.

Choose an adult stocking plan before shopping. Include an alternative home or separation plan if territorial behavior develops, and never release unwanted aquarium animals outdoors.

Frequently asked questions

What is the easiest saltwater fish for a beginner?

A healthy captive-bred ocellaris clownfish is a sensible starting candidate when its aquarium is cycled, covered and appropriately sized. The easiest fish is still the one whose needs match your setup and maintenance routine.

Can all six fish live together?

No shared stocking plan is implied. In particular, basslets and dottybacks may compete over shelter, and timid fish can be intimidated even without visible injuries. Assess the full adult community.

Can I start with a 10-gallon saltwater tank?

Small marine systems can be maintained, but evaporation and feeding mistakes have less margin for error. For a first setup, this guide recommends starting with at least 20 gallons and a very modest species-specific plan.

Do beginner marine fish need corals or an anemone?

No. These fish can be kept in a suitable fish-only marine aquarium with shelter and biological filtration. Add corals or anemones only after researching their separate needs.

Editorial note: This is a research-based selection guide, not a claim of personal testing or a guarantee of compatibility. Tank-planning recommendations are deliberately cautious. Sources are linked beside the relevant guidance.

7 Best Freshwater Aquarium Crabs – Types of & Freshwater Crab Care

Trevor Aquarium Basics, Aquatic Life (info & tips), Crabs, Shrimp, Snails (Care Guides) , , 0 Comment
7 Best Freshwater Aquarium Crabs – Types of & Freshwater Crab Care

Best Freshwater Aquarium Crabs: Freshwater aquarium crabs are a great addition to any aquarium.

These freshwater crabs are usually small and are available in different colors.

In addition to their beauty, freshwater crayfish also play an important role in the tank.

They are working to remove fish food debris and remove debris from daily aquarium use.

Freshwater aquarium crabs give your aquarium a lot of beauty and cleanliness. They are also very affordable and easy to maintain!

Without a doubt, freshwater crabs are some of the coolest species you can have in your home aquarium.

When most of us think of crabs, we imagine saltwater environments. However, there are different types of brackish and freshwater crayfish that can thrive in your freshwater tank.

These aquarium crabs are generally quite small, so you can commonly refer to them as “mini crabs”.

Crabs are scavengers and it’s fun to watch them move around in the tank and collect the goodies they see floating. It’s not just fun, either. Crabs can really help keep your tank clean.

 

7 Types of Best Freshwater Aquarium Crabs

 

1. Red Claw Crabs

Red clawed crabs are one of the most popular freshwater aquarium crabs you can get. These crabs are great as a snack because they do not require extensive maintenance.

Red crabs can grow up to 2.5 inches tall and easily live up to five years. All you have to do is feed them properly and make sure they have a clean space.

Like many freshwater crabs, claw crabs are omnivores. You can eat granules, flakes, or a combination of both to get nutrients. You can also eat other crabs and fish, so be sure to find compatible friends.

Red crabs also need a place in their tank where they are not submerged in water. Crabs like to come to the country for a while. Therefore, make sure that your aquarium contains a dry area where it can appear.

 

2. Fiddler Crab

Violinists are quite small and generally do not grow more than 5 cm. They are incredibly eye-catching. A claw is proportional to the body of the crab, small and delicate. However, the other claw stands out and is dramatically larger than the other. This oversized claw also has bright colors, often light yellow or gold in color.

Violin crabs are generally not very aggressive. He likes to travel in pairs or in small groups, so buy at least two of them at the same time. Like most crabs, these little animals love to hide. Because they are so small, you may have to look behind rocks and aquarium decorations to find them sometimes.

Violinists live in nature for a relatively long time, but generally only have a few years in captivity.

 

3. Thai Devil Crabs

Third on the list are Thai Devil Crabs. Don’t be fooled by the name! These crabs are very soft and would make a great pet.

Thai Devil Crabs are two to three inches tall. They come in many different colors, including bright purple.

Thai Devil crabs are very active members of the tank. Leave enough room to eat on the floor.

For a diet, these crabs like to eat plants and animals. You can eat small fish and salty insects. For plants, they enjoy dried seaweed and fresh or dried fruits and vegetables.

Thai devil crabs also need an area in their tank where they can rest on land. Be sure to include a sandy area with plenty of hiding places and burial places for them. They always like to appear underwater, so it is definitely a necessity for them.

 

4. Vampire Crabs

Vampire crabs are a very fun way to keep. They are also quite rare and probably more difficult to find than other types of freshwater crabs. They are available in a variety of colors, usually in rich shades of orange, purple, or red.
The terrifying-sounding name comes from the fact that they have unique yellow eyes, sometimes called “bright”. If you were expecting a bloodsucking crustacean, sorry for the disappointment.

Vampire crabs are small and about an inch wide. They usually live up to 3 years if they are lovingly cared for.

If you are interested in vampire crabs, keep in mind that they must provide a very specific habitat. This species is not completely aquatic. In fact, they need more dry land in their tank than water.

Like most crabs, vampire crabs eat a lot, so be sure to offer them a varied diet with plant-based substances and animal protein.

 

5. Gold Claw Crabs

Golden claw crabs are some of the most unique crabs you can add to your aquarium.

These crabs are so named because they have a very large “golden” claw. It’s not exactly a golden color, but it’s pretty close.

Golden clawed crabs like to eat at the bottom of the tank. They also like to dig in the sand and occasionally dig in it. These crabs definitely need a sanded area in the aquarium.

It is also important to understand that these crabs, like most crabs, can escape very well from tanks. They can scale almost anything, including hoses and pipes, and are known to sneak frequently. Be sure to secure your lid every time you open it for feeding or cleaning.

 

6. Thai Micro Crab

The Thai micro crab is sometimes known as a fake spider crab. These names are apt because this species is incredibly small. They are about 1 centimeter in diameter (less than half an inch!).
They are usually brown or gray in color with long spindle-shaped legs, similar to a real spider. They are also covered in very small hair, which helps them collect food that floats in the water.

Thai micro crabs are very sensitive to changes in water conditions.

Because they are so small and fragile, they cannot cope much with a predatory neighbor. That is why it is important to keep them in tanks with the most docile companions.

Small invertebrates can often live peacefully with Thai micro crabs. Some types of small fish can also live well with them.

Micro crabs are not very sociable and can spend much of the day in hiding.

Aquarium crabs are known to escape from enclosures. If they are so small, the risk is even greater.

Take extra precautions to make sure there are no small openings in your tank that can serve as an escape route for a stubborn crab.

 

7. Panther Crabs

Finally, we have the panther crab. Panther crabs are a popular choice due to their beautiful markings. They are bright orange with black spots, hence the name.

Panther crabs are generally very friendly crabs, but they become aggressive if not properly fed. It is important that your panther crab (and really every pet) is fed on time and in the correct amount. If not, these crabs will surely attack and eat slower fish.

Panther crabs can also escape very well. You should make sure your tank has a tight fitting cap to reduce the chances of leakage.

While giving them a good place to rest from the water is important, you don’t want them to walk around your house.

 

How do I care for crabs in an aquarium?

Many new aquarium enthusiasts avoid getting crabs for their tanks. They are concerned that they are too difficult to maintain.

Caring for freshwater aquarium crabs is no more difficult than caring for a fish.

Tank maintenance

As with any pet, you must provide the basic needs for it to thrive. This includes a good environment in which they can grow and live their whole lives.

Freshwater aquarium crabs are no different. First, buy a high-quality tank with a capacity of at least 5 gallons. Each smaller one is too small for your grumpy friends.

You want to imitate your real habitat in the wild as much as possible, so make your tank more cozy. Keep it at a constant temperature; Usually 72-82 degrees Fahrenheit is comfortable for them.

Add decorations like sticks, rocks, and moss so your crabs can go up and down. It’s also a good idea to set up a shielded network so that your friends don’t accidentally escape.

Fill the aquarium, but leave an area where your crabs can sit out of the water. This is good for them to rest, dig and dig.

 

Food

Most of the crabs are omnivores. Therefore, feed your crabs in a balanced way with plants and animals. It is a good idea to keep your diet fresh for them.

When you first get your crab, it can take a while to learn what it likes to eat and what it doesn’t touch. You should try swapping some ingredients or swapping foods you don’t like.

Best Freshwater aquarium crabs can eat protein-based granules or algae. They also enjoy meat like flies, bloodworms, and small salty fish. Include vegetables with steamed vegetables in smaller pieces in your diet.

It is also important to eliminate uneaten food after three days. Their crabs don’t know the difference between food and rotten food. So help them out there.

 

conclusion

Once you’ve put a crab in your tank, you can’t imagine life without it! These little creatures give your tank a nice touch and keep things interesting.

With proper care and nutrition, aquarium crabs will keep their tank busy for years to come.

 

You can also read:

Best Aquarium Plant Fertilizers: 4 Options and Safe Dosing

Trevor Aquarium Equipment, Aquarium Plant Guides, Aquarium Plants (info and tips), Aquarium Plants (reviews), Other (reviews) , , 0 Comment
Best Aquarium Plant Fertilizers: 4 Options and Safe Dosing

The best aquarium plant fertilizer is the one that fills a gap in your tank’s nutrition. A planted aquarium with low nutrient levels may benefit from a liquid containing nitrogen, phosphorus and trace elements. A tank with sufficient nitrogen and phosphorus may need only selected supplements. Rooted plants in plain gravel may also need nutrients in the substrate.

This guide compares four current products by their intended use and manufacturer information. These are research-based recommendations, not claims of hands-on testing. Check the exact product label before dosing; similarly named formulas are not interchangeable.

Four options for different planted tanks

  • Tropica Specialised Nutrition: a liquid option when a planted tank needs nitrogen and phosphorus as well as other nutrients.
  • Seachem Flourish: a micronutrient supplement when substantial nitrogen and phosphorus additions are not needed.
  • API Root Tabs: a substrate supplement for rooted freshwater plants.
  • NilocG ThriveS: a liquid formulated for planted aquariums where freshwater shrimp are the main focus.

There is no reason to buy all four. Choose a routine that matches your plants, substrate, livestock and maintenance, then adjust it using observations and water tests.

1. Tropica Specialised Nutrition: for tanks needing broader liquid nutrition

Tropica’s current product information lists nitrogen and phosphorus alongside potassium, magnesium, iron and other micronutrients. That makes it a useful candidate for a heavily planted aquarium where fish feeding alone does not supply enough nutrients.

Choose it when: you want one liquid covering several nutrient groups and can monitor the tank’s response. Consider another approach when: nitrate and phosphate already accumulate faster than plants use them. Adding more of those nutrients may not address the actual limitation.

Follow the bottle’s starting schedule and adapt it to plant demand. More fertilizer does not compensate for inadequate light, poor planting or an unstable CO2 system.

2. Seachem Flourish: for micronutrient supplementation

Seachem Flourish supplies iron and a range of other elements, but the manufacturer specifically says it does not provide significant nitrogen or phosphorus. Treat it as part of a nutrient plan rather than assuming the word “comprehensive” means it meets every tank’s needs on its own.

Choose it when: your aquarium needs micronutrients while other sources already meet its larger nutrient requirements. Its limitation: it will not correct a substantial nitrogen or phosphorus shortage at its normal dose.

Flourish, Flourish Advance, Flourish Excel and Flourish Tabs are different products. Select by the full label name, not just the shared brand word. Do not multiply the Flourish dose to try to supply a missing macronutrient.

3. API Root Tabs: for nutrients in the substrate

API Root Tabs are placed in the gravel rather than poured into the water. They are a practical option for rooted plants when the substrate provides little nutrition or its initial nutrient supply has been depleted.

Choose them when: you need localized feeding around rooted plants. Their limitation: substrate tablets do not provide the same delivery method as a liquid for floating plants or plants attached above the substrate.

API bases placement on gravel surface area and recommends monthly replacement. Follow the package’s spacing and burial instructions; do not assume every tank with the same gallon rating has the same footprint. Keep tablets buried and avoid placing them where digging animals repeatedly expose them.

4. NilocG ThriveS: for shrimp-focused planted aquariums

NilocG’s current ThriveS listing describes a macro- and micronutrient formula with no added copper. It is intended for planted freshwater shrimp aquariums, with dosing frequency adjusted to plant load and lighting.

Choose it when: shrimp are the priority and you want a fertilizer designed around that type of aquarium. Its limitation: a shrimp-oriented label does not make overdosing safe or replace stable water conditions.

Check the formula and directions on the bottle you receive. Do not transfer an old pump-count recipe from Thrive, Thrive+ or another NilocG product to ThriveS. The manufacturer sells several formulas with different purposes.

Liquid fertilizer, root tabs or both?

Start by identifying where your plants grow. Floating plants and plants attached to wood or rock need nutrients available in the water. Rooted plants can also benefit from nutrients around their roots. Some aquariums use both methods, but combining products without checking their ingredients can unnecessarily duplicate doses.

Fish food, source water and substrate all affect nutrient supply. A lightly planted aquarium may need less supplementation than a fast-growing aquascape. Read our Hygrophila corymbosa care guide for an example of matching fertilization to a particular plant.

A simple dosing routine

  1. Check the basics first. Confirm appropriate lighting, temperature, planting depth and water quality. Fertilizer cannot rescue a plant buried incorrectly or kept under unsuitable conditions.
  2. Estimate actual water volume. A nominal 20-gallon tank contains less than 20 gallons of water after substrate and decorations. Use US gallons for US label directions and a marked syringe or measuring device for small doses.
  3. Begin with the exact label’s instructions. Record the product, amount and date. Avoid stacking several complete liquids at full strength.
  4. Observe new growth and test consistently. Nitrate and phosphate trends can help, but they do not measure every nutrient. Leaf damage alone does not identify a specific deficiency.
  5. Change one variable at a time. Keep maintenance consistent so you can judge whether the adjustment helped. Our aquarium test-kit guide explains useful testing choices.

Safety and common mistakes

Use products labeled for freshwater aquarium plants. Do not add ordinary garden fertilizer or enriched potting soil to an established stocked tank as an improvised substitute. An aquarium fertilizer’s safety claims depend on following its directions and considering the animals you keep.

Liquid carbon is a separate category. Seachem describes Flourish Excel as an organic carbon source; it is not a replacement for a balanced mineral nutrient supply. Follow its own precautions, especially with sensitive plants, and do not improvise concentrated spot treatments.

If algae increases, review lighting duration, feeding, nutrient additions and maintenance together. Simply adding more fertilizer or withholding every nutrient can leave the underlying problem unchanged. If fish or shrimp show distress after dosing, stop further additions, check water quality and follow the product’s emergency guidance.

For a first purchase: decide whether the missing supply is in the water or substrate, check whether nitrogen and phosphorus are actually needed, and buy one suitable product before adding complexity.

3 Best Goldfish Tanks: Spacious, Safer Choices

Trevor Aquarium Equipment, Fish Tank (reviews), Goldfish (care) , 0 Comment
3 Best Goldfish Tanks: Spacious, Safer Choices

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Goldfish need substantially more swimming room, filtration and oxygen than bowls and small “goldfish kits” provide. The best tank is a wide, rectangular aquarium sized for the fish’s adult body length and waste load—not merely the number printed on a product box.

Short answer: For fancy goldfish, the Aqueon 40 Breeder offers the most useful footprint and freedom to choose oversized filtration. The Tetra 55-gallon kit provides more water volume and length for a pair of compatible fancy goldfish, although its filter may need supplementing. The Fluval Flex 32.5 is the most compact option here and is best considered for one fancy goldfish with conservative stocking and disciplined maintenance. Long-bodied common, comet and shubunkin goldfish usually outgrow these choices and are better planned for a much larger system or suitable pond.

Quick comparison

Tank Best use Important limitation
Aqueon 40 Breeder Best overall footprint for fancy goldfish Tank only; equipment and lid are separate
Tetra 55-Gallon Kit More length and water volume Narrower front-to-back; filter may need help
Fluval Flex 32.5 Compact all-in-one for one fancy goldfish Smallest option; rear filter reduces swim space

Best goldfish tanks reviewed

1. Aqueon 40 Breeder — Best overall footprint

Aqueon 40 Breeder glass aquarium for fancy goldfish

The Aqueon 40 Breeder is our best overall choice because its approximately 36-by-18-inch footprint provides more turning room and surface area than a tall tank of similar volume. That matters for bulky fancy goldfish and for oxygen exchange. Aqueon lists high-quality glass construction, clean silicone edges and black trim.

This is a bare tank, which is an advantage if you want to choose a filter with generous reusable mechanical and biological media. It also means you must budget for a properly fitted lid, light, stand, filter, thermometer, air supply if required, water conditioner and liquid test kit. Aqueon says a filled and decorated aquarium weighs roughly 10 pounds per gallon, so use a purpose-built, level stand and include drip loops on every electrical cord.

  • Pros: wide footprint; easy equipment customization; good surface area; standard shape makes accessories easier to source.
  • Cons: not a complete kit; only three feet long; unsuitable as a permanent home for adult common, comet or shubunkin goldfish.

Check price on Amazon

2. Tetra 55-Gallon Aquarium Kit — Best larger starter kit

Tetra 55-gallon aquarium kit suitable for fancy goldfish

Tetra’s current 55-gallon kit measures about 48 by 13 by 20 inches and includes two LED hoods, a Whisper PF60 filter, thermometer, 200-watt heater, net and starter samples. The four-foot length is useful for swimming, and the greater water volume gives more dilution and stability than the smaller tanks here.

The included heater is not automatically needed for goldfish; temperature requirements depend on variety, room conditions and stability. The supplied filter is a starting point, not permission to overstock. Goldfish produce substantial solid waste, so monitor ammonia, nitrite and nitrate and be prepared to add a second mature filter or replace the included unit with one offering more reusable media. Never replace all biological media at once.

  • Pros: four-foot swimming length; larger water volume; lids and basic equipment included.
  • Cons: only about 13 inches front-to-back; bundled filter may be limiting for a heavy goldfish bioload; heater may be unnecessary.

Check price on Amazon

3. Fluval Flex 32.5 — Best compact all-in-one

Fluval Flex 32.5 freshwater aquarium kit

The Fluval Flex 32.5 is a compact all-in-one with app-controlled lighting, two independent three-stage media chambers and twin adjustable output nozzles. Fluval lists dimensions of about 32.5 by 15.35 by 15.75 inches and pump output of 214 gallons per hour.

Its filtration compartments provide useful media space, but they also reduce the display volume. This is the minimum and most restrictive option in our comparison, so we would reserve it for one fancy goldfish rather than treating the label volume as a stocking target. Angle the outlets to avoid forcing a slow-swimming fancy fish to fight a strong current, add prefilter protection if necessary, and test water frequently.

  • Pros: integrated multi-stage filtration; adjustable outlets; covered, tidy layout; programmable light.
  • Cons: least swimming space here; curved front and rear chamber complicate cleaning; unsuitable for long-bodied goldfish.

Check price on Amazon

How large should a goldfish tank be?

There is no responsible one-number rule for every goldfish. Adult body length, body shape, activity, number of fish, filtration, oxygen, maintenance and actual water quality all matter. The RSPCA advises at least 50 litres as a baseline and a tank at least four times the adult body length long and twice the body length wide, with more space for additional fish. Its UK guidance also notes that goldfish may need at least 60 litres each. Treat those figures as minimum starting points, not targets to crowd.

Fancy goldfish are shorter-bodied and slower than common, comet and shubunkin varieties, but they still need a large footprint. Long-bodied varieties can reach substantial sizes and are active swimmers; FishBase records a maximum length of 48 cm for Carassius auratus. Plan a much larger aquarium or suitable filtered pond from the start rather than relying on a temporary small tank.

Why footprint matters more than a tall shape

Goldfish swim horizontally and benefit from turning room. A wide rectangular tank also exposes more water surface for gas exchange. Bowls, jars and novelty tanks have little usable volume, limited filtration space and unstable temperature and water chemistry. They are not suitable goldfish homes.

Filtration and cycling

Goldfish excrete ammonia and produce abundant solid waste. Choose a filter with accessible mechanical media for debris and substantial biological media for nitrifying bacteria. Manufacturer tank ratings are broad marketing guides; the real test is whether the aquarium consistently maintains 0 ppm ammonia and 0 ppm nitrite with nitrate controlled by maintenance.

Cycle the aquarium without fish before stocking. A mature nitrogen cycle converts ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate. Use a liquid test kit and do not add fish simply because the filter has been running for a fixed number of days. Read our aquarium nitrogen cycle guide and goldfish filter comparison for more detail.

Stand, floor and electrical safety

  • Use a stand designed for the exact aquarium footprint and filled weight.
  • Place it on a level, stable floor; never allow a rimmed tank to overhang.
  • Keep outlets and power boards away from splash zones and form a drip loop in every cord.
  • Do not move an aquarium containing water, substrate or fish.
  • Check the tank and seams for damage before setup, then leak-test it in a safe area.

Setting up a goldfish tank

  1. Rinse the empty tank with water only; never use household soap.
  2. Install the stand, tank, filter, lid, thermometer and any air equipment.
  3. Choose smooth substrate or a bare bottom that can be cleaned thoroughly. Avoid gravel small enough to enter a goldfish’s mouth but large enough to lodge.
  4. Use smooth, stable decor and leave an open swimming lane.
  5. Fill with temperature-matched, properly conditioned water.
  6. Complete a test-confirmed fishless cycle before adding goldfish.
  7. Introduce compatible fish conservatively and quarantine newcomers when possible.
  8. Test water and perform regular partial water changes with substrate cleaning.

Frequently asked questions

Can goldfish live in a bowl?

No. Bowls do not provide adequate swimming room, stable water quality, filtration or oxygen exchange for long-term goldfish welfare.

Do goldfish need a heater?

Not always. Many goldfish do well at stable room temperatures, but some fancy varieties and cold rooms may require controlled heating. Avoid abrupt temperature changes and use a separate thermometer.

Can two goldfish live in a 20-gallon tank?

A 20-gallon tank is not a responsible permanent plan for two adult goldfish. It offers limited swimming space and little margin for their waste load. Choose a larger footprint based on adult size and verify capacity through water testing.

How often should the water be changed?

Use test results to set the schedule. Many goldfish systems need weekly partial changes and gravel cleaning, but stocking and filtration can require more. Any ammonia or nitrite reading calls for prompt corrective water changes and investigation.

Verdict

The Aqueon 40 Breeder is our strongest all-round starting point for fancy goldfish because of its useful width and customizable filtration. The Tetra 55 kit adds length and water volume for keepers who want a more complete package. The Fluval Flex 32.5 is a polished compact option for one fancy goldfish, but it provides the least margin and demands conservative stocking. For common, comet or shubunkin goldfish, plan substantially larger from the outset.

Best Plants for Betta Fish Tanks: 6 Safe Choices

Trevor Aquarium Basics, Aquarium Equipment, Aquarium Plants (info and tips), Aquarium Plants (reviews), Betta Fish (guides), Betta Fish (info and tips) , , , , , 0 Comment
10-The-Best-Live-Plants-for-Betta-Fish

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Betta fish do best in a warm, filtered aquarium with cover near the surface. The best plants for betta fish have smooth leaves, tolerate gentle flow, and leave enough open water for swimming and feeding. Live plants are usually the best choice, but soft silk plants can work well when you want a low-maintenance setup.

Planted betta fish aquarium

Best Plants for Betta Fish: Quick Comparison

Plant Best for Light Shop
Anubias nana Best overall Low View on Amazon
Java fern Easy low-tech tanks Low View on Amazon
Java moss Cover and texture Low–medium View on Amazon
Amazon sword Larger betta tanks Medium View on Amazon
Water sprite Surface shade Medium View on Amazon
Silk aquarium plant Lowest maintenance None View on Amazon

Live-plant stock changes quickly. The Amazon links above show current matching options so you can check seller, condition, delivery date, and reviews before ordering.

Live or Artificial Plants for a Betta?

Live plants create a natural look, use nutrients from fish waste, and provide broad leaves and shaded areas where a betta can rest. They are not a replacement for a filter or water changes, but healthy growth can support a more stable aquarium. Beginners should start with hardy species rather than demanding carpeting plants.

Artificial plants do not need light or fertilizer. Choose soft silk or very flexible material, inspect every edge and seam, and avoid rigid, sharp plastic. A useful test is to drag a piece of nylon stocking over the plant: if it snags, it may also damage a betta’s delicate fins.

1. Anubias Nana — Best Overall

Anubias aquarium plant for betta fish

Anubias nana is our best all-around choice because its sturdy, broad leaves make convenient resting platforms and it tolerates low light. Attach the rhizome to driftwood or rock with thread or aquarium-safe glue. Do not bury the thick horizontal rhizome, or it may rot. Growth is slow, so older leaves can collect algae if the light is too strong.

Best for: beginners, nano tanks, and low-light setups. Watch for: buried rhizomes and algae on slow-growing leaves.

Check current Anubias options on Amazon

2. Java Fern — Best Low-Maintenance Choice

Java fern for a betta aquarium

Java fern is forgiving, handles low to moderate light, and does not require nutrient-rich substrate. Like Anubias, it is a rhizome plant: secure it above the substrate instead of burying it. Mature leaves give a betta visual cover without filling every inch of swimming space.

Best for: low-tech tanks and aquarists who do not want CO₂ injection. Watch for: slow initial growth; small plantlets on old leaves are normal propagation, not disease.

Check current Java fern options on Amazon

3. Java Moss — Best for Dense Cover

Java moss live aquarium plant

Java moss can be tied to wood, spread over a rock, or allowed to form a loose clump. It creates useful cover, but it traps debris easily. Keep it away from the filter intake, trim it regularly, and siphon around it gently during maintenance. It does not need stagnant water; clean, gently moving water is healthier for both the plant and the fish.

Best for: adding soft texture and cover. Watch for: trapped food and unchecked growth.

Check current Java moss options on Amazon

4. Amazon Sword — Best for Larger Tanks

Amazon sword style aquarium plant

A live Amazon sword gives a betta large leaves and an impressive background, but it can outgrow a small aquarium. It is a root feeder, so use a nutritious substrate or aquarium root tabs and provide moderate light. Place it toward the rear or side so the center remains open for swimming.

Best for: established tanks of about 10 gallons or more. Watch for: eventual size and depleted substrate.

Check current Amazon sword options on Amazon

5. Water Sprite — Best Floating Plant

Water sprite can be rooted or floated. Floating growth softens bright light and creates the surface cover bettas often appreciate, while its fine roots offer enrichment. Thin it regularly so the fish can reach the surface easily and light can still reach plants below. Avoid letting floating plants cover the entire top, because bettas breathe atmospheric air with their labyrinth organ.

Best for: creating gentle shade and surface cover. Watch for: rapid growth and blocked feeding areas.

Check current water sprite options on Amazon

6. Soft Silk Plants — Best Artificial Option

Soft silk aquarium plant for betta fish

Silk plants are the safest artificial style for most long-finned bettas. Select broad, flexible leaves, a stable base, and colors that do not flake. Rinse new decorations in plain water before use—never soap—and check them each time you clean the tank. Replace any plant that develops rough edges or exposed wire.

Best for: quarantine tanks, low-light rooms, and keepers who want minimal plant care. Watch for: hard stems, sharp seams, and unstable bases.

Check current silk aquarium plants on Amazon

Plants We Would Avoid

  • Sharp plastic plants: stiff points and seams can catch long fins.
  • Unknown terrestrial plants sold as aquatic: they may rot when fully submerged.
  • Marimo moss balls from an uncertain source: zebra mussels have previously been found in imported moss-ball products. Follow current local biosecurity advice before buying or moving them.
  • Fast-spreading floaters without a plan: some species are restricted or invasive in certain regions.

How to Plant a Betta Tank Safely

  1. Use a cycled, heated, filtered aquarium; plants do not make a bowl suitable.
  2. Quarantine and inspect live plants for snails, eggs, algae, or damaged tissue.
  3. Rinse plants with dechlorinated water and follow the seller’s acclimation guidance.
  4. Keep broad leaves or a resting perch within easy reach of the surface.
  5. Leave open swimming space and an unobstructed route to the water surface.
  6. Use an appropriate planted-tank light on a timer, usually starting around six to eight hours daily.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do bettas need live plants?

No. Bettas can thrive with safe silk plants, but live plants often provide better cover and a more natural environment. Water quality, heat, filtration, tank size, and routine maintenance matter more than whether the plants are live.

Can bettas sleep on plant leaves?

Yes. Bettas commonly rest on broad leaves, especially near the surface. Anubias and Java fern are useful choices because their leaves are sturdy enough to support a resting fish.

Do live plants replace a filter?

No. Plants can consume some nitrogen compounds, but they do not replace biological filtration, testing, partial water changes, or removal of waste.

Can lucky bamboo live underwater?

Its roots can grow in aquarium water, but the stalk and leaves should remain above the surface. Fully submerging lucky bamboo commonly causes it to rot.

Final Verdict

Anubias nana is the best plant for most betta tanks because it is hardy, low-light tolerant, and provides broad resting leaves. Java fern is a close second, while water sprite is excellent when you want surface shade. If live plants are not practical, choose smooth silk plants and test every edge before placing them in the aquarium.

For the rest of the setup, see our betta tank setup guide, best betta tanks, and betta filtration guide.