Freshwater Fish (info and tips)

The Complete Ember Tetra Care Guide

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Ember Tetra

The Ember Tetra, often called the Fire Tetra, captivates with its bright orange scales, bringing life to the aquarium. Known for their playful nature and sociable behavior, they make excellent tank mates for a variety of tropical fish.

Join us in our comprehensive guide covering all aspects of caring for these delightful and peaceful aquarium fish.

About Ember Tetras

The Ember Tetra (Hyphessobryconamandae) is a tiny Orange tetra of South America. They are in the Characid family, one of the most diverse fish families in the world.

These fish can be found around the Araguaia River basin in Brazil. They are unusually hardy for their size, and they are not especially susceptible to popular fish diseases.

It would be best if you kept Ember in shoals of at least eight individuals. If you love community nano tanks, then you’ll love these tetras.

Name

Hyphessobryconsamandae is popularly known as the Ember Tetra. This species was recently found in 1987 and given Amanda Bleher, who was the mother of Heiko Bleher, the one who found the fish.

Ember Tetra

What does Ember Tetras look like?

Ember Tetras have a red or orange tone similar in appearance to fire’s dying embers. They have elongated bodies, one anal fin which is merged, two small dorsal fins in one.

The body almost always has a bright orange color, with the lower body slightly lighter than the top. The females usually have larger air bladders than the males, but their bodies tend to be smooth during breeding time.

If we want our Tetras to turn a deep red color, we would have to take special care of their diet, give them live feed, and take extra care of water pH levels and soil conditions.

Appearance

The Ember Tetra is almost entirely Orangeish-red, and its color brightness is present wherever on its body. Their distal fins are thick and tall, with a gradient that fades from their primary color to an even shader backward and back.

Their caudal fins with forks have more drastic color transitions than their dorsal fins. The tetras’ bodies have a classic shape seen in most tetras.

The nutritional levels of the diet will impact how vivid their color is. A dull Ember Tetra usually suggests it’s not taken care of properly at some point. The fish are adorable and bright color creatures.

Size

An average Ember Tetra size is around 1 inch long. It is somewhat smaller than some other tetras, as neons. Some people think these creatures are identical, just differently colored just as much.

The size of these fish is usually not impacted by the high quality of their care. There are cases when a fish grows longer than an inch, but it’s very uncommon.

Identification

Ember Tetra is named for its warm orange body that glows almost like a glow in an aquarium. Males usually show darker to brighter coloration, especially during spawning season. The Ember Tetra can not be confused with the glowlight tetra (Hemigrammuserythrozonus).

Ember Tetra: a species profile

The Ember Tetra (Hyphessobrycon Amanda) originated from Brazil’s Araguaia basin and was discovered in 1987. Growing to a maximum of 0.8 inches (2 cm), This fish is a popular choice of home aquariums because of its small size, attractive colors, and easy maintenance. Today’s article talks about embers tetra and describes why they are a popular aquarium choice. And we also talk about easy-to-care fish status and why we consider them the popular alternative to make our aquarium.

Summary of species

Fire Tetras (Hyphessobryconamandae) can be found most strongly in south eastern Brazil in the Araguaia River basin. They prefer the waters of rivers that have small currents and an immense concentration of vegetation. In the wild, this fish eats plant compounds and tiny invertebrates. They are surprisingly calm and can be compatible with a wide variety of tankmates. The primary color of the Ember Tetra is the vivid orange hue. This makes them stand out in most freshwater nano aquariums and means that this fish is likely a popular choice for years to come. This fish might most likely be popular in the Freshwater nano aquariums.

Is the Ember Tetra suitable for your aquarium?

The Ember Tetra’s a stunning fish that fills any aquarium. His temperament makes this a superb choice for anyone who has a community tank. These beautiful fish seem so friendly to have and look great in groups. This article will help you discover everything you can about this fun tiny fish. It’s also an excellent way to get creative with the tank set up with the tropical fish in your tank.

Are Ember Tetras Suitable for Aquarium?

Ember Tetra is one of the most typical tropical fishes in tropical freshwater aquariums. Bright colors and unusual appearance have been popular for the community tanks. The only thing to bear in mind is their size and responsiveness to water parameters. Its peaceful nature allows the fish to fit easily into almost any aquarium. It’s also a perfect opportunity for testing a Nano setup in a 10-gallon tank.

Maintenance

Floating plant species and driftwood branches, and dried leaf litter are valuable additions to the tank. Microorganisms find in those decorations may contribute useful secondary food sources to fry. Filtration has to be correctly sized and with moderate water flow. The tannins and other chemicals released by the dead leaves may be beneficial.

Natural habitat

The Ember Tetra is common in slow-moving rivers in the western parts of Brazil. In the aquarium, to mimic their natural habitat, it is commonly recommended to keep them to a slightly acidic water level with a pH of around 5.8 to 7. They live in hot regions. The ideal temperatures would be between 75 and 82 F or between 24-28 degrees Celsius.

Distribution

Das Mortes river is a large tributary of the Araguaia, the primary outlet of the Rio Tocantins within the lower Amazon. The full range of H. amandae in the system remains elusive.

Wild habitat and tank conditions

These fish come from the waters of the South American rivers. Underwater vegetation can be found in abundance in the river and provide the fish with protection.

Most of the time, Ember Tetras remain in the low flow zones of the river basin. They usually come out just after sunrise and just after sunset and stay in the central areas of the water columns. These rivers have a muddy substrate with many dead leaves and driftwood.

How do I care for Ember Tetras?

Ember Tetra is a small freshwater fish which are prone to no specific illnesses. Overfeeding sometimes can be a problem. It could cause numerous diseases in their digestive system.

Keeping up with water changes and checking the parameters is fundamental for health, as is consistently conserving the water tank quality.

Ember Tetra Care

Ember Tetra

Ember Tetra fish are perfect for keeping and recommended to aquarists of any professional level. As long as you take care of the basics with their habitats and the water quality, there’s nothing you have to worry about.

This is why we recommend them for anyone seeking some vibrant color for their tank. These tiny fish are quick and easy to keep.

Ember Tetra Care Guide

Ember Tetras are one of the easiest fish for beginners to keep. The species is quite strong and healthy for its size. Make a good maintenance schedule and keep your water supply constant.

The fish is not particularly prone to disease only picks up parasites that cause discomfort in the fish tank after its treatment. If the fish looks very dull or consists of mixed vivid and soft colors, this indicator may mean it is unhappy with its tank conditions.

Unfortunately, they don’t live long. You can expect them to stay alive for two or four years (even under the most effective care).

How long do Ember Tetras live?

Average tetra survives between one and four years. You can prolong their life span by up to a year if you properly care for your fish.

Tetras living in large tanks tend to live longer than those living in scarce tanks. If you can keep your tetras happy, they may live up to six years if even more attention is paid to their habitats. Assure that you put lots of live plants inside the tank, maintain your water well clean and feed them the proper amounts of live food.

What do Ember Tetras eat?

Ember Tetras are micro predators and need a regular food supply of animal-origin food. They have tiny mouths and are not interested in seeking food that splatters in their bottoms.

Feeding the tetras may take the most challenging part of keeping them, and you need to make the most effective care they can handle.

Try to keep their diet as diverse as possible, so your Tetras will be happy and healthy. Possibly you’ll want to look for feeding worms, baby brine shrimps, Baby daphnia, grindal worms, or whatever.

In addition to offering a quality commercial feed. Make sure you provide a little bit of everything for your fish; variety is the way to go.

Ember tetra diet

Ember Tetras will accept fish flakes easily; however, other well-balanced and nutritious foods should serve as a foundation for their diet.

Frozen, fresh, dried, and live foods should be supplied often to maintain your tetra shining brightly. It is essential to remember that these fish are tiny and are probably more challenging to eat.

If necessary, it’s recommendable to break up tiny pieces, so it gets easier for them to eat. Ember Tetra is a hardy fish and eats practically anything they get.

How big do Ember Tetras get?

Amber tetras are relatively tiny at a maximum length of 1 inch. Due to their small size, you can place a considerable number of these in minor fish tanks.

Ember tetra tank requirements

The recommended tank size for a school of Ember Tetras is 10 gallons (38 L). It aims to replicate their natural habitat. An Indian almond leaf is used to darken the water because tannins are released from the leaves. These fish perform best in lower water flow.

They can’t quickly go around when idle in the water column. It is also worth considering how tiny these fish is and that the water pump can soon suck them up if they have no protective barrier.

Tank Setup

The fish originates from small rivers where the flow slows. It can be very beneficial to make use of a powerhead or for filtration. Because they prefer slightly acid waters, the fish usually has a pH range between 5.8-6.8. Some driftwood or leaves will help decrease the pH. It should be at least 10-gallon tanks capable of storing 5-8 fish.

Decor

In addition to providing shelter and a microenvironment that generates food, living plants help in gas exchange and nutrient cycling in the aquarium. Due to the skittish nature of these tetras, they often weave through hiding areas during the day for safety.

Ember Tetra Tank Mates

Because of this gentle nature, several viable tankmates are available for the Ember Tetra that are worth keeping. Cory catfish, rasboras, Neon Tetra, and pygmy catfish are all commonly paired.

Essential, all kinds of nonaggressive fish will fit it! If you follow the recommended guidelines of temperament and size, there’s an unlimited supply of choices available. We even have critters like snails and shrimps for tanks with Ember Tetra.

We don’t recommend tankmates large enough to eat the Ember Tetra because the tankmate might accidentally confuse them with a snack.

Tank Mates for Ember Tetras

Ember Tetra

Ember Tetras can survive peacefully with almost any other sort of tetra. Neon Tetras also make good tankmates, as do Pygmy Rasbora. Small Corydoras Catfish are also an excellent addition to our Ember communities.

Cichlids Oscars or even more peaceful Freshwater Angel Fish would make tetra tanks a nightmare. Long-tailed fish (like the Gouramis) can also be avoided. Barbs such as Tiger barb may be too much for this fish to manage.

Ember Tetra behavior

The Ember Tetra is a school fish that thrives when kept in when held in many individuals. They move in clusters and wade in the middle and upper parts of the aquarium.

Behavior

These Ember Tetras are skittish because of their small size and fragile demeanor. It is usual for them to desire safety from predators. These tetras should be kept in a shoal of at least 5-8 fish. They’re also easily stressed and should be maintained with fish of the same size and distribution.

They look magnificent in a community tank as they appear dazzling as groups with another fish in the aquarium. This species thrives in planted tanks and thrives in any tank given their hiding zones adequate to withstand water. Several times these tetras are observed to weave through plants and decorative items during the day.

Breeding Ember Tetra

Ember Tetras are free spawning fish which means parents don’t care for the fry. Under well-monitored conditions, spawning is frequently performed and does not require additional assistance.

To stimulate spawning, try changing pH near neutral and making water temperature around 80-82°F. If the parents are eating the fries, they should be placed in separate tanks.

It is recommended to optimize the acclimatization procedure for all fish, including the parents. Illumination ought to be dimmed.

Breeding & Reproduction

Ember Tetras are one of the easiest species for breeding. You can just put both males and females together in a tank to help to spawn.

When a Tetra spawns, you will see behavior changes. The male will chase the pregnant female around the tank and become aggressive. You may need to install small breeding tanks with low light and filters.

Ideally, it’s imperative to keep the water filtered for the proper breeding and birth of eggs healthily. Once tetras begin to lay eggs, it leaves them, leaving them to fend for themselves. Once they reach a medium size, you can bring them into a regular fish tank.

Reproduction

Amandais eggs spread-free spawn animal showing no parental care. Young adults can spawn often; in mature aquariums, small numbers of small fry can appear without intervention.

If you desire to maximize yield, this means that you’d need a much more controlled approach. Adult groups can still be conditioned together, but a smaller aquarium should also be set up and have a mature filter system.

The water itself should have a slightly acidic to neutral pH with a temperature towards the upper end of the range suggested above. The sponge-filter or air-stone s could also add oxygen and fluid filtration.

Sexual dimorphism

Adult males are more intensely colored, especially at the breeding stage, while females are noticeably more round-shaped.

Caring for Ember Tetra Fry

You must watch the breeding parent several weeks before she spawns, or it could end up eating the fry. Please take care to feed pregnant mothers live feed at least two weeks to trigger the spawn.

Ember Tetra Facts & Overview

This Ember Tetra is a small freshwater tropical fish of the Characidae family. These fish are very popular with fish keepers because of their beautiful appearance and not demanding fish.

Their bright, fiery appearance makes them relatively easy for us to keep in our tanks. They are active but peaceful fish; great choices for anybody with any level of experience in fishkeeping.

Feeding and general husbandry

Tetra embers are voracious eaters in the wild. Almost all their food in their natural habitat consists of worms, invertebrates, and phytoplankton.

They can happily feed on almost everything from an aquarium. It’s recommended that you vary their diet with some form of wet food like live or frozen daphnia or tubifex worms.

This is important because too many processed foods such as flakes and pellets cause digestive issues. Because of its small size, this species is a susceptible fish. It is best only to introduce them when the tank is completely cycled.

Final Thoughts – Ember Tetra

Combining their beauty and ease of maintenance make them ideal for aquarium keepers of any experience level. The lightning colors and splashing in the waters are worth it.

Whether you are just starting to fish or want a nice and low-maintenance fish, the Ember Tetra can be an excellent choice. We’ve already recommended them to friends for years, but now we’ll let you know how good they are!

[Care Tips] The 20 Best Algae Eaters For Your Freshwater Tank

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Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank

Each algae eater has a unique mouth shape that is suitable to eat several different types of algae. Ensure that your Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank is in its most healthy condition with supplemental nutrients and the appropriate lighting. Do some maintenance work before you add them. Think about adding more algae eater critters to the aquarium to keep the types of algae out of the tank. Check out some awe-inspiring algae-eating animals.

What is an algae eater?

The term algae eater is used to describe species that feed on algae either exclusively or in part of their natural feed. An algae eater can be a species of animal or even an invertebrate like snails or shrimp. Some algae eaters ate particular types of algae, and others grazed much more knowingly on numerous different species. Some may consume plants in aquariums. The algae eater fish, also known as the cleaning crew, can avoid algae in the water.

The Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank

Algae eaters have been a part of aquarium-keeping hobbies for centuries because they provide a vital balance to the natural habitat that every one of us is trying to recreate. Bristlenose Plecos are healthy algae-eating fish that can tolerate the most peaceful tankmates. Cherry Shrimp are easily one the Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank in the area and relatively easy to care for. Malaysian Trumpet snail can eat out all algae in your tank. Algaes can quickly take all of your tanks if you are unable to control them properly. Read this article and learn more about keeping freshwater algae cleaners crew for your tanks. Best Algae Eaters

Types of freshwater algae

Algae is the catch term of vegetable aquatic organisms which convert sunlight into food by photosynthesis. Algae may be single or multicellular organisms (seaweed is a kind of algae) or grows as a biofilm in a protein matrix with microbes. There are different kinds of algae, but its growth is a symptom of something out of balance in the aquarium. Generally, high nutrients due to poor maintenance, or overpopulation, or inconsistent sizing of filtering or lighting cause their population to boom. Depending on the type of something, it can be challenging to control. The problem must be identified and managed from its onset through periodic maintenance and mechanical removal; in severe cases, chemical treatment can be applied.

The complete list

Many hobbyist aquariums have Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank to keep their tanks healthy, with no overpopulation of algae on the walls and equipment inside the aquarium. Most people generally don’t know about what algae-eaters are associating it with a few prevalent algae. Instead, “algae eaters” should be taken to understand a rather large group of fish and invertebrates who have their own specific needs for your tank species. The algae-eating group is small with its particular dietary demands. Find out how the best freshwater Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank work to clean our aquariums.

Best Algae Eating Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

We have a wide variety of algae-eating shrimp species, some more selective than others in terms of algae type for eating. Freshwater shrimp are also a favorite food for much freshwater fish. Red cherry shrimps are known as shrimp species that consume the most different types of algae. The only downside is that they are very tiny and easily preyed upon by other animals – keeping them in your tank can be difficult. If the shrimp do not have enough hiding places, it’s probably not going to last long in an open environment.

The best algae-eating snails

Best Algae Eaters

Snails are not the best algae eater available in the fishkeeping hobby, but they are a good choice. You can also use some snails to manage algae explosions. In the last few years, demand has increased for freshwater snails as humans have become more open about keeping snails as pets.

Hillstream Loach

Best Algae Eaters

Hillstream loaches (of the genus Sewellia) are a very different-looking algae suckling organism in aquariums. The body of a hillstream loach is surprisingly flat, which gives it a like alien appearance; they also look like stingrays. This helps the fish stay attached to rock and wood even where there are high flows of water. Wild animals fed in flowing, rapid waters in tropical rain forests, which are full of oxygen. In-home aquaria water flow typically tends to be much lesser than in the biotope. A good vegetal-based diet is crucial for good health; supplement the feed with spinach leaf and other vegetables. They will eat every piece of green algae in the tank.

Reticulated Hillstream Loach

Best Algae Eaters

It reaches 3 inches across and looks like a miniature stingray encrusted with contrasting shades of gold and a black outline. Use their powerful gripping abilities to eat algae and quickly clean large, flat surfaces like vertical aquarium walls, rocks, and plant leaves. Think of them as your window cleaner for diatoms and other flat types of algae. Many hillstream and river loaches varieties, including Sewellia lineolata, Beaufortia kweichowensis, and Gastromyzon cyntha. Keep it in warmer water with stable pH and high-quality water. Feast it with high-quality plant-based sinking food.

Mystery Snail

Best Algae Eaters

Mystery apple snail (Pomacea brigesii) is one under-explored algae eater. While it is dark at night, the snails seem to do nothing but eat the algae from vegetation and even glass. Mystery snails reach slightly more than 2 inches thick and provide a perfect algae eater for tanks where shrimps end eaten up by other inhabitants. Offer your snails a good food source like algae wafers – this can also help them maintain good health. A giant mystery snail is essentially kept alone in most aquariums.

Otocinclus

Best Algae Eaters

Otocinclus catfish or Otos are peaceful fish and make a suitable mate in a tank that holds other tropical fish. Otos are timid fish and should be kept in groups to reduce stress. When selecting one for a tank, ask whether the Otos exhibited are wild-caught or captive-bred. They are great algae eaters for freshwater, really enjoying eating green spot algae. Otos that survived in a shop or at a home aquarium for two weeks or more have more chance of survival. The availability of captive-bred fish is critical to preserving wild populations. In the case of Otocinclus catfish – trapping the animals in the wild often results in fish that die within days of being captured due to stress. One of the Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank.

Molly Fish

Best Algae Eaters

Mollies are popular livebearers from the Poecilia genus that live in whole fresh to full saltwater in the tropics. Different Mollies can range in size from the 2-inch (5 cm) in Balloon Molly to the nearly 6-in (15 cm) in Sailfin Molly. Fish are often raised and reared in brackish water aquariums. If you spot a health problem in your newly purchased fish, he could consider adding extra calcium to help him alive. The aquarium hobby selectively breeds them into various colors, patterns, tintypes, and body shapes.

Common Pleco

Best Algae Eaters

The common pleco (Hypostomus plecostomus), which many call the quintessential algae eater, is commonly found in aquariums. It’s best to avoid common plecos unless you plan on having a giant aquarium. They’re lined in armor with small eyes, and they’re kind of like dinosaurs. If you have room, a common pleco provides an excellent source for eating the algae. They are also very opportunistic and will eat tiny fish and shrimp.

Siamese algae eater

Best Algae Eaters

The Siamese Algae Eater is one of the few fish that eat black beard algae and hair algae. The main downside of this fish is spotting the real deal as they were often mislabeled and mischaracterized at fish shops. They can be confused with other species of algae-eating fish, such as the Chinese Algae Eater, False Siamese Algae Eater, and the Flying Fox Algae Eater.

Nerite Snails

Best Algae Eaters

Nerite snails eat both algae and scavenging. They are notably handy for removing tough greenish-colored algae and others found on trees and decorations. Like all other types of aquarium snails, Nerite Snails puts white, seed-like eggs that will not hatch in freshwater unless there is an out-of-control population boom. Just don’t forget to offer additional calcium in the water and in their diet (using nano food blocks) to help with the health of the shell. There are many beautiful colors to choose from.

Florida Flagfish

Best Algae Eaters

Jordanella floridae is also known as American flagfish from its red stripes and symmetrical shoulder patches. The female resembles the US flag from its tail. This 2.5-inch (6 cm) voracious algae eater has the perfect mouth for cutting out hair algae, black beard algae, and other fuzzy algae. Flagfish may grow in calmer waters without aquarium heaters. This killifish might be the best for algae eaters for freshwater.

Bristlenose Catfish

Best Algae Eaters

Bristlenose pleco is an incredible algae eater in a freshwater aquarium and can easily clean away algae from glass decorations and driftwood. They receive this name because their foreheads are covered with fleshy branches or tentacles. They can grow six inches in length, although a significant number stays around four inches. They’ll soon outgrow many tanks; because of that, bristlenose plecos will need larger tanks when they reach full size. Juvenile bristlenose pleco is the perfect algae eater as they do not require too much space.

Amano Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Caridina multidentata is a clear-brown dwarf shrimp. These are animals that rarely eat black beard algae. Since they are small, you must buy at least four or more to cause a significant response in the algae growth. Amano shrimp will readily breed in your aquarium, but baby shrimp need to be kept in saltwater. For a detailed description of their protection requirements, read the complete species profile on this site.

Cherry Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) is a freshwater shrimp. This shrimp type is available in a wide range of colors. Cherry shrimp are excellent Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank. A large group of them could quickly clean small tanks. The hardiest part for keeping this shrimp is picking suited tank mates because many fish view them as food items.

Rosy Barb

Best Algae Eaters

The rosy barb (Pethia conchonius) eats fuzzy hair, algae-like staghorn, and thread algae. This relatively peaceful fish measures 7 cm long and is available in others varieties, like long-fin and albino. As a schooling fish, it is best when kept in a group of at least four individuals.

Ghost Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Ghost Shrimp are not as efficient as Cherry or Amano shrimp, but they enjoy eating hair-like algae in reasonable amounts. They are tiny, generally growing to only one inch in length, and bigger fish will eat them. Ghost shrimp are often sold as live fish food. If you want to keep ghost shrimp, you will need to have a place there to hide out from predators. It can be found easily where the Ghost Shrimp get that name, with their almost transparent bodies.

Bamboo Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Bamboo shrimp can be found in tropical Southeast Asia and enjoy flowing water in their aquariums. They probably eat fewer algae than Cherry or Amano shrimp, but still, Bamboo shrimp have many potentials as algae eaters.

Cardinal Sulawesi Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Cardinal Sulawesi Shrimp (Caridina dennerli) is going global in its popularity. At 3/8″-1.5′′ maximum, this species has a small size, and the colors are much vivid than the famous Red Cherry Shrimp. They live longer than most freshwater shrimp and reach the ripe old age of two years when they are kept in fine-filtered still water with enough soft aquatic leaves to eat. They also feed on algal and microbial biofilm present in any healthy tank ecosystem means they don’t require additional food for survival. They prefer warm temperatures from 78 to 88 degrees with hard pH, about 8.

False Siamese Algae Eater

Best Algae Eaters

False Siamese algae eaters require tanks of no larger than 30 gallons and prefer a pH within the range of 6.5 and 7.0, with temperatures between 75 and 79°F. It works best for those living in a small community tank where the fish have many algae to eat. It is not a bad thing for them to be given algae tablets and food supplements. These species are also quite peaceful and relatively easy to maintain, so they could be a good choice for novice aquarium hobbyists to help control algae in a new tank.

Chinese algae eater

Best Algae Eaters

Chinese algae eaters are easily maintained and operate well in tanks of 30 Gallon sizes. This animal can grow quite large – up to 10 inches, and they tend to become aggressive as it grows. It would help if you also made a place for animals to hide behind a rock cave or hollow logs. They prefer warm water temperatures, and they require a herbivorous diet. They are Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank and can be kept close by large and semi-aggressive species like cichlids. It can be a lazy eater as it grows, but they feed on different algae kids as young.

Garra (Doctor Fish)

Best Algae Eaters

These freshwater algae-eating fish are very hardy and are seen in lakes, ponds, and streams in all Middle East regions. Although garra’s cleaning of algae full aquariums is excellent, they need always to get a healthy balanced diet. Additional consumption of bloodworms or algae wafers is sure to keep your Garra healthy and happy. Garra prefers to be held in groups; 4 is the absolute minimum of individuals, so the more, the merrier! Garra is also known as the doctor fish in a spa treatment for Central and Eastern Asia. All the while, they’ll gladly take up all the loose cellular matter, including dirt and dust from your skin.

Rabbit Snail

Best Algae Eaters

The rabbit snail (Tylomelania spp.) is one of the best algae eateries around. Its shell shape resembles a corkscrew, capable of growing from up to 4 inches, and their active, curious nature makes them fascinating to observe. All colors of algae can be eaten, and also decayed plant waste. Diversify its diet by offering vegetables and herbivorous fish food.

Guppies

Best Algae Eaters

Guppies are one of the most popular fish in the aquarium hobby. Most Guppy owners never think they are algae eaters once they are acquired. Guppy keepers groups who don’t want their aquarium to turn into infinite hospital maternity. Aquarists often will buy only one female fish or only males. Guppy fish are also prolific breeders and are sometimes bought only as a matter of interest for the looks and temperament of their young rather than for the benefit of other fish.

Ramshorn Snail

Best Algae Eaters

The Ramshorn snails work very well at cleaning out unseen food debris and dead leaves before they can decompose. They have been safely kept with live vegetation without eating them. A small number can breed on the out-of-control scale until becoming a pest. Occasionally, you are forced to bait them with white lettuce to cut down their numbers unless you don’t mind swarms of these tiny snails nibbling on your plants. The snails suffer a terrible reputation because aquarium owners find them eating plant leaves. In reality, they only touch pieces of foliage that have fallen off the plant unless they are in an uncontrolled population explosion.

Sailfin Pleco

Best Algae Eaters

Sailfin Plecos (Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps) are one the best algae-eating fish there are. When young, these creatures are usually fed on algae and fish food. As adults, they need up to 75 gallons of clear surface. While not aggressive or territorial, these large plecos do better with equally large tankmates such as Oscars and Severums. As adults, they are also quite clumsy and will knock over plants and disturb gravel as they please, but they are not aggressive. They need algae wafers, vegetables, and tablets to take their nutrients.

Which algae eater would you choose?

There isn’t a one size fits all algae eater. The choice of species is mainly dependent on the type of fish you keep, the tank, the size, the algae that are being eliminated, and many other factors. For any peaceful community tank, there is an excellent range for Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank. However, if you like bigger, aggressive fish, you might be limited, but you still have options. Do you know what species of tank you need? What other type of animal would you keep in an aquarium? We want to learn your story. Tell us in the comment.

Now it’s time to pick your favorite!

I guess there’s something special about it when I watch these animals. Their efforts are kept focussed every time to track down algae consistently. They will wait it out till it gets algae, then they’re going straight back into work. If you have questions about other algae-eating fish or like to learn more about the species we selected, don’t hesitate to contact us via social media. We enjoy speaking to other aquarists and learning about them.

Final thoughts on algae eaters for small tanks

Different kinds of algae usually point to other disfunction of an aquarium’s ecosystem. Some algae, such as red algae, have some toxic qualities, but they are generally considered harmless. Fish, shrimp, and snails could remove algae. Some solutions may be simple. They only require minor adjustments. Sometimes, algae problems can be multi-layered. A tank owner has to experiment with several solutions before the problem can be solved.

Conclusion

In addition to the fish mentioned here, there are still many other aquatic animals that feed on algae. Numerous fish will catch algae; however, they tend to be significantly less efficient than the fish and invertebrates described above. Fortunately, some of the animals in this list can be relatively easily be found in your LFS. If you were thinking about adding Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank, hopefully, this section provided information that would help you choose the right fish.

Ultimate Rubber Lip Pleco Care Guide [Size, Diet, Breeding]

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Rubber Lip Pleco

Rubber Lip Pleco Care Guide & Species Profile

The following article will help you decide if the Rubber Lip Pleco is the right aquarium fish for you. You will learn about its breeding habits, diet needs, personality and tankmate compatibility with other tank mates, and more.

This information is incredibly valuable when planning to care for Rubber Lip Plecos and makes for an informative read. I will highlight the key aspects of caring for Chaetostoma sp., commonly known as Rubber Lip Plecos. This species is often confused with bristle nose plecos. However, there are distinct differences in their care requirements.

Rubber-lipped Pleco: Care and species guide for beginners.

Rubber Lipped Plecos are a pleco species that can feed on algae and also on tiny larvae. They reach the size of up to 4.7″.

Adult individuals maintain their habit of eating algae, being an excellent addition to the cleaning crew. They are fish with omnivorous eating habits; they will eat algae and small live or frozen food.

They may have some difficulty in accepting processed foods.

A short introduction to the Rubber Lipped Pleco

Chaetostoma is part of the most extensive catfish family (Loricariidae). This fish’s other common names include Black Spotted Bulldog Pleco, Spotted Rubbernose Pleco, or simply L445.

These fish have enlarged gills that are believed to work together to breathe as they rest or feed. Similarly, the Rubber Lip Pleco are frequent algae eaters under some circumstances. It is a freshwater, bottom-dweller fish of the genus Chaetostoma.Rubber Lip Pleco

Rubber-lipped Pleco: Ultimate Species Care Guide.

Small catfish, including rubber-lipped plecos, can be an excellent addition to a tropical freshwater aquarium. They are not very resistant to pollutants in the water and require high levels of O². The aquarium must be well matured; this species is not recommended for beginner aquarists.

Habitat and origins

The Rubber-Lipped pleco is found in the Apuré River and Magdalena Basin in South America. The Rubber Lip Plecos are found in several other South American rivers.

The water in certain parts of its surface drop in temperature, which can sometimes be considered a kind of milder water, somewhere around 68º F. The species is found in Venezuela, Colombia, Brazil, and the United States, where it would probably be an invasive species.

The species were found across the northern region of South America.

Habitat and tank conditions

The Rubber Lip Pleco needs specific requirements, like fast-flowing waters and large tank size; they do not thrive in any home aquarium and require some attention.

They also provide excellent tankmates for fish from fast-flowing waters, like pike cichlid and silver dollars.

Indeed a relatively easy species to find in specialized stores. A challenging pleco for more experienced aquarists, who like fast and transparent water aquaria.

Rubber Lip Pleco Diet & Food

Rubber Lip Pleco feeding

In the natural habitat, Rubber Lip Pleco‘s diet includes all types of things. They will accept and delight in fresh or live food of animal and plant origin, as well as algae and biofilm.

They can be somewhat selective in eating, presenting a particular difficulty to start accepting industrialized feeds. Offer everything the animal needs; that way, you will have a less stressed and healthier animal.

Some of our favorite vegetable options for this fish are algae powder, leafy greens, cucumbers, and peas.

Rubber lip Pleco Care

Rubber Lip Plecos care is not particularly challenging as it seems, and some aquarists may realize it soon enough.

These fish are very hardy (within their specifics) because of the varying habitat they come from. It’s always a good idea to understand the ideal conditions so you can give the most outstanding care possible. Good owners strive for perfection!

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a rubber lip pleco?

The Rubber-Lipped pleco is a bottom-dweller fish and part of the genus Chaetostoma. Plecos are a common addition to all modern home aquarium systems for helping clean the tank’s surface from algae.

Bulldog plecos have extended gills that have evolved to allow the fish to breathe while feeding or are attached to rocks.

The Rubber Lip Pleco can’t grow as big as the Common pleco and can be an excellent choice to keep it; small-sized plecos do not require giant aquariums.

How do I care for my rubber-lipped pleco?

Care for the rubber-lipped pleco is no longer difficult; after all, when we have a designed system to keep it alive and healthy, it is a rewarding and relatively simple experience. Here are their ideal conditions to keep them busy and healthy.

Is rubber lip pleco suitable for an aquarium?

Rubber Lip Pleco cleaning algae off glassRubber Lip Plecos are an excellent choice for more experienced aquarists; they need well-matured aquariums, water with medium hardness, milder temperatures, and a strong water flow.

Despite their incredibly long and impressive life spans, this can be a daunting task when you first introduce them to an aquarium.

The most important consideration should be the seriousness of your fish care.

Try to keep them away from other large bottom species if possible; this way, the pleco remains calmer, in addition to not having to share hiding places or feeding spots.

If you love freshwater aquarium plants, it might give the tank life too; choose species that adapt to the water parameters required for the fish.

Rubber lips pleco is a species with a long lifespan that can reach 12 years if kept in ideal conditions. A breeding pair can become aggressive towards other plecos during breed season.

Plecos do not eat fish poop; that’s a myth. They are a capable algae eater and easily clean an algae-infested aquarium.

Tank Mates

There is a wide range of freshwater fish who are happy to coexist with these plecos. Here’s a listing of fish living in a tank with a Rubber Lip Pleco, along with helpful information about each species. Bala sharks are peaceful, although they develop an appetite for small fish as they age.

Cory catfish are also bottom-feeder scavengers who are great at cleaning and maintaining the aquarium. Gouramis are wonderful aquarium companions because they enjoy being joined up with slow-moving fish. Plecos prefer to keep it quiet and don’t enjoy bullying. Aggressive Cichlids and Tiger Barbs can’t be tolerated.

Take care

Rubber Lip Plecos are, in general, good fish to keep. They are not particularly vulnerable to sickness, and as long as the tank is clean, you will not be faced with problems.

The periodic water change is also crucial as your tank should maintain a healthy balance to avoid diseases and intoxications. Scaleless fish are sensitive to salt in the water; thus, be careful when adding salt to treatment problems.

Go for soft, smooth pebbles or sand over gravel and sharp sand for protection of fish. Keep plastic plants at a minimum and try to keep as many live plants as possible.

Appearance

The Rubber Lipped Pleco has an iconic ”pleco” look. Their head is almost identical to those we usually expect with their pleco form.

They have an enormous mouth with a snout that descends to the top of the skull. Their eyes are situated at the top of the head. They present a slightly elevated posture.

This eye positioning allows them to watch for predators while scavenging the substrate. In addition, they also have dark circles covering their body.

Behavior & compatibility

Rubber Lipped plecos don’t like the aggressiveness of other tank mates. They all want to lie alone or sit peacefully in a cave or a hideout.

They also enjoy hiding under smooth-surfaced round rocks which resemble the bottom of a river. Rubber Lipped plecos will not bother other fish unless there are other plecos because they can be territorial.

These animals are usually nocturnal, and it’s easy for them to do little feed before the lighting goes out. They won’t be more active if anything stresses them up and are also shy in general. At night they feed on algae and biofilm.

Behavior & Temperament

Rubber Lip Pleco was peaceful and would not be any problem to other tank habitats. They are one of the most peaceful freshwater species we know of.

You’ll sometimes see them parking at one place or gradually working around a protected spot. In open areas, they use sucker lips to latch on to whatever surface they’re looking at.

It is fun to what when they are attached to aquarium glasses. You shouldn’t expect a regular swimming show, as they are shy fish. If you own a big fish with solid energy and good health, it is a good idea not to put it together with rubber-lipped plecos.

A common misconception about the Rubber Lip Plecos

Fish stores can confuse Rubber Lip Pleco with other types of plecos. What makes the differences between these species unique are their maximum density and color.

A true RL pleco will reach at least 4.5 inches in body length and not experience drastic color change. While sexually maturing, the rubber lining will shift from grey to gold color.

I hadn’t the chance to see mine turn gold like that. But it seems the fish decide when this happens and if and when. Both of these fish have similar care needs (except for tank size and flow).

Summary of species

This species can be found in the Magdalena River in Columbia and the Apure River in Venezuela and spread across the Amazon basin.

These species primarily eat algae in the wild and spends their time around the substrate since it feeds from the bottom.

This information is essential to know because it will affect their keeping in the tank. This species is relatively robust and can tolerate a decent range of water conditions in the wild.

It is also known as the rubber nose pleco, and the rubber lipped pleco is also found in smaller rivers and waters bodies and larger rivers.

Diet

Rubber Lip Plco is not too fussy eaters. They will eat almost everything that is in the water. Feeding plecos a rich and varied diet with algae, vegetables, and animal protein is essential.

You can place zucchini, peas, green beans, and spinach in the tank for your fish to chew to ensure a healthy, balanced diet. You may also occasionally offer bloodworms, tubifex, nauplii, and earthworms. Remember that the more you feed it, the more poo it will produce. Slowly try to introduce foods like algae wafers to its diet.

Going forward

These are intriguing creatures that are good enough for the proper aquatic enthusiast. If you’re searching for a unique and easy to care fish, which are not particularly popular, this could be for you.

We are dedicated to writing the best fish care guide online. We have always enjoyed the rubber nose pleco and the performance regardless of what it does.

Breeding

There are no verified reports of successfully breeding rubber lips plecos. The breeding process can be laborious for this fish, whether it’s successful or not.

It best not to try breeding this fish without being confident in the results. We would love to hear from someone who successfully bred this species, as we do wish to feature their tips in this guide.

Very rarely is breeding observed in captive conditions. Usually, a male attaches itself upside out to a flat spot beneath the surface below where the eggs hatch. This way, he can guard the fry against predators.

Mistaken identity

The Rubber Lip Pleco is sometimes confused with Rubber Pleco, Parancistrus aurantiacus. The Rubber pleco is spotless in its nose.

Juveniles can be mistaken; notice if your fish grows slowly until finally, it reaches the proper shape around five inches; around that size, the differences are evident, as the rubber lipped has black dots across the body.

The rubber pleco can transform its grayish color over its aging growth to a length extending up to 7 or 8 inches. On rare occasions, both species of fish are advertised incorrectly.

Life span

The average life span of a rubber-lipped pleco is between 10-12 years with reasonable maintenance. These assumptions assume you have provided them the ideal habitat and a good diet.

High-stress levels can have a detrimental outcome on the longevity of fish. If you pair them with the wrong tankmate, they might feel stressed and become sick or even die.

Tank setup and habitat requirements

If you have basic knowledge of this species, you can easily set up a tank for your pleco. Depending on your current setup, you may not have to make corrections before adding RL to your community tank.

Where can I buy this rare fish?

After some feedback on the site, I realized not everyone was lucky enough to find the Rubber-Lipped pleco at their fishing shop. But you can always buy it online, from reliable fish stores.

If you’re not able to find this pleco in the country you live in, you can also order them online. One place where I have discovered Rubber Lip Plecos is AquaBid, but there are other online markets that you might try.

Visit the link and read the retailers specializing in selling live freshwater fish to increase your chances of finding a live fish.

Common disease

The RL pleco, like many other plecos, is exceptionally resilient. They are susceptible to toxins and contaminants in water.

Plecos do not quickly become sick but are sensitive to specific health problems. When you notice that the white spots don’t multiply after one day, it probably wasn’t ich; if it persists, you fish possibly is a victim of ich. This ailment is often easy to diagnose and also treat.

Final thoughts

Rubber Lip Pleco does not grow as some other pleco species, making it a good choice for the home aquarium.

However, it would help not keep this animal in a tank size of fewer than 25 gallons since they need large amounts of space and water flowing. The Rubber Lip is a peaceful and magnificent algae eater in your tropical aquarium.

The 7 Best Dwarf Cichlids for Your Aquarium [complete guide]

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The 7 Best Dwarf Cichlids for Your Aquarium [complete guide]

Dwarf cichlids have big character for such tiny fish. They do well in a tropical community tank. While some species do well alone, others do best in trios or couples.

Family of (5) Live Cichlids 1-2″ Live Tropical Fish Assorted South American Cichlids
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Cichlids are a group of fish that fish enthusiasts misunderstand as aggressive and territorial. This idea is why some hobbyists often do not prefer them. Cichlids are also blamed for digging up gravel and plants. Because of this, they are not as fashionable as their other fish counterparts.

Fortunately, the Dwarf Cichlids are quite different from their larger Cichlid cousins. These fish species are much less aggressive and will live harmoniously with other fish species in the same aquarium.

Another great attribute of the Dwarf Cichlids is that they do not need much care, so long as you keep them in larger aquariums. Dwarves add interest to the aquarium with their colors and character, giving hobbyists great satisfaction. Keeping and breeding the fish is an easy task.

Types of Dwarf Cichlids

There are two main kinds of Dwarf Cichlids: the African Dwarf Cichlids and the South American Dwarf Cichlids. It must be noted that these two species of fish usually require different water parameters. The African Dwarf Cichlid are generally good community fish. However, the South American Dwarf Cichlids prefer to be alone in their environment.

There are more than 90 different species of Dwarf Cichlids! In this article we have selected six of the best South American Dwarf Cichlids and one from Africa that we think are a definitely worth considering for your aquarium.

The 7 Best Dwarf Cichlids for Your Aquarium- Butterfly Cichlid

Dwarf Cichlid Color Varieties

Some of the most popular South American Dwarf Cichlids kept by hobbyists include Blue Rams, Bolivian Rams and various species of Apistogramma. Whist some species are thought to be challenging to keep, captive bred Cichlid strains are becoming more available and are well suited to aquarium life. New and appealing color morphs continue to be established by breeders.

Captive bred Cichlids have quite diverse characteristics even within the same species, featuring innumerable colors and patterns. Male Cichlids will generally have quite different color variations to females.

Cockatoos with their long striking orange and black fins and Blue Rams with blue hues and unique patterns- these will liven up your tank. Then there are the Dwarves that have gentle colors and patterns that will blend into the landscape.

Dwarf Cichlids

How Long Do Dwarf Cichlids Live?

Although the lifespan of Dwarf Cichlids can vary slightly between species, the typical life prospect of most is up to five years. However, many fish keepers report their cichlids live longer than that, with some fish living ten or more years if given optimal care and a high-quality diet.

What Do They Eat?

Feed your cichlid flakes or pelleted food. They are omnivores and thrive on a nutritious balanced fish food such as Aqueon Tropical Flakes, Shrimp pellets and foods specifically formulated for Cichlids.

Time how much food your fish eats in 3 minutes, then and feed them that quantity twice daily. Offer frozen or freeze-dried brine shrimp or bloodworms as treats.

Wild caught Cichlids can be fussy eaters and may require live foods to begin with, but eventually they will accept frozen and dry foods.

Nannacaraanomala (Golden Dwarf Cichlid)

Dwarf Cichlids

Golden Dwarf Cichlids are lovely little fish with a golden and blue colors. Their hardiness and suitability for a peaceful community tank make them an ideal choice. They should be housed in tanks of at least 20 gallons.

The male is easy to tell from the female. He will be larger with brighter colors.

Captive bred Golden Dwarf will accept just about any tropical fish food. It is important that they are given a rich nutritionally balanced food. They enjoy frozen food and freeze-dried foods too.

The Golden Dwarf Cichlid has been bred in captivity for many years. Due to them being well acclimatized to captive breeding, they are a fish that breeds readily for hobbyists.

They prefer slightly acidic water and a slightly higher temperature (than usual) when breeding. The female does become aggressive when she lays her eggs, chasing off other fish including the male Dwarf Cichlids. If in a small tank, the male should be removed.

Ensure the tank has places for the female to lay her eggs, such as caves. The eggs hatch after a few days and can be fed on newly hatched brine shrimp.

 

Egyptian Mouthbrooder (Pseudocrenilabrus multicolor)

Dwarf Cichlids

This species has been bred in captivity for over a century. They are very hardy fish and a great dwarf cichlid for beginners.

Egyptian Mouthbrooder Dwarf Cichlids accept most foods. A quality cichlid pellet/flake can be fed as staple. They also require variety, so the inclusion of live and frozen foods will keep them at their best.

This species can be aggressive towards other fish that live in the lower parts of the aquarium. If keeping them with other dwarf cichlids, catfish, and loaches, you’ll require a larger tank so they can all have territory.

In smaller aquariums, they do well with fish that inhabit the upper reaches of the tank; fish such as African tetras, hatchetfish, danios and barbs. Males are very aggressive towards each another and only one should be kept with one or more females.

Males are usually larger and more colorful than females.

The Egyptian Mouthbrooder Dwarf Cichlid is easy to breed. Being a mouth-brooder, it is enjoyable to watch them breed. Leading up to breeding feed your fish a high-quality diet of frozen and live foods. This gets them into prime breeding condition.

Ensure there are secluded areas in the aquarium for the fish to breed. When in condition, the male will dig-out a shallow pit in the gravel. He will then attempt to entice the females to spawn with him. He does this by displaying and sometimes forcefully ‘encouraging’ the females.

When willing, the female and male will tightly circle one another, and the eggs will be released. The female picks them up in her mouth. She will hold 5-100 eggs in her buccal cavity.

After ten days the brood will hatch. The free swimming fry are released by the female and can be fed on newly hatched brine shrimp, microworm and powdered dried foods.

Neolamprologus multifasciatus

Dwarf Cichlids

These attractive small fish have an enormously interesting trait; they tend to establish small territories (6” across) around large snail shells that they will defend vigorously. They will even nip fingers that get too close!

This smallest of the dwarfs, is a highly recommended species because they will entertain you with their unique territorial behaviors.

They require at least a 10 gallon (40 L) tank is needed for a colony. In their natural environment they seek out large open areas of sandy substrate where there are numerous empty shells. By replicating this, the colony will happily set up their territory in amongst these shells. The fish will landscape the area, so ensure the substrate is deep enough.

They generally accept dried foods, however, live and frozen foods will ensure they thrive and it brings them into breeding condition.

Due to their territorial aggressive manner, it is best to house a colony of these cichlids with fish that like to inhabit other areas in the aquarium.

To maintain cohesion with the colony, make sure you provide more shells than fish and keep many more females than males. Males and females look similar. Males will have a more intense color and a reddish tint to the top part of the dorsal fin.

Breeding these little fish is easy. They may breed in the community tank, but it will be more successful in a separate tank. Make sure there are plenty of shells, as the female will lay her eggs in these. They like a hard and alkaline water with a high pH of 8 to 8.5. The temperature should be 77-80°F.

Keep several females per male and space the shells out to reduce territorial aggression between the males.
Females will display in front of their shells to gain the attention of males. The female will lay her eggs in the shell, which will then be fertilized by the male.

After spawning the male plays no further role and the female will see him off. The eggs hatch after a day and become free swimming fry within a week. As the fry grow they will venture further away from the shell and eventually being chased off by the female.

Feed fry on newly hatched brine shrimp or microworm.

A colony of Neolamprologus Multifasciatus is a must for hobbyists interested in this little fish’s unusual habits.

Cockatoo Dwarf (Apistogramma cacatuoides)

Dwarf Cichlids

Being one of the most popular of the dwarf cichlids, Apistogramma Cacatuoides  are a perfect starter cichlid for beginners. They may be small in stature, but by no means small in personality. These species gets its name from their stunning cockatoo-crest-like dorsal fins.

Hobbyists have been breeding Cockatoo Dwarfs for many years and have been able to fix several different color variants.

Male and female fish are quite different in looks. The males develops an enlarged head once sexually mature. This seems to continue to enlarge throughout its life. They have huge mouths that they gape to threaten other males in their territory.

A very hardy fish that can take most water types. Heaters are even optional so long as the room doesn’t get overly cold (not below 60°F). This is not the case with their Cichlid cousins, that prefer warmer water.

Cockatoo dwarfs dwell at the bottom of aquariums. Having a longer aquarium with lots of floor area with 20+ gallons of water would suit best.

Cockatoo Dwarfs are not very picky when it comes to foods. Feed live food daily and supplement with flakes, pellet food, freeze-dried and frozen food.

To bring them into breeding condition, feed live food such as blackworm and brine shrimp.

Cockatoos are cave spawners. Ensure there are many caves in the aquarium, at least one for each female. Openings should face away from one another providing privacy.

The males will battle it out for dominance. Only the dominant males will get to breed. The dominant male will be the brightest colored of the colony and he will be proudly dancing around out in the open to impress the girls! It is best to remove the sub-dominant males from the tank during breeding, unless there is plenty of space for them to hide.

Aggressive males have been known to kill rival males. Each male should have a harem of about four females.
After courting the female lays her eggs on the inner walls of her cave. The male will then fertilize them. The caves need to be large enough to accommodate the male.

When the eggs hatch the female takes charge and herds the fry around the tank foraging for food.

The Cockatoo Dwarf are an addictive starter cichlid. You’ll be hooked by their colors and intriguing behaviors as they go about their lives in a colony.

Apistos– Apistogramma Trifasciata 

Dwarf Cichlids

Apistogramma trifasciata (Apistos) are small, brightly colored striped fish with a quiet nature, making them very suitable for a community aquarium. The Three Striped Dwarf Cichlid is one of the most brightly colored of this species.

This cichlid is not considered a fish for beginners. A tank of at least 25 gallons is recommended to keep a colony of these fish. It needs to be well planted as the Apistos requires places to hide and to establish their colony.

They require well filtered not too hard (0-12 dH) water, with a temperature of between 71-86F and pH of 5-7. With these conditions, along with a quality diet, Apistos will live five to ten years.

With a preference to inhabit the bottom of the tank, these fish do best with fish that don’t share their lower tank space. Avoid aggressive fish species, as Apistos may become their targets. The best tank mates include: Cardinal Tetras, Otocinclus Catfish, Lemon Tetras, Neon Tetras, Pygmy Corydoras and Rasboras.

Apistos are easy to breed if all their conditions are met. They like the water warm with very little flow. Like most cichlids, these fish are very protective of their eggs and fry. The females defend their nests and the male the territory.

Success with breeding will increase when using a separate breeding tank as opposed to a community tank.

Either breed in pairs, or one male with several females. Two males will fight. The female will coax the male into the breeding area where she spawns, and he fertilizes the eggs.

Once hatched the fry will eat primarily algae.

Apistogramma trifasciata are omnivores and require a balanced diet of plant based foods and protein from live foods or freeze dried foods (brine shrimp, insect larva, worms, fish fry). The food needs to be able to sink to the bottom where they live.

With a little attention to water parameters, these intriguing quiet-natured cichlids make a great addition to the aquarium.

Rainbow Krib – Pelvicachromis Pulcher

Dwarf Cichlids

We selected the Rainbow Krib, or Kribensis, to be one of our best dwarf cichlids picks. This one is not a South American species, but rather from Africa, inhabiting the shallow weedy waters of Southern Nigeria and Cameroon.

The colors on these fish are enhanced during spawning. During breeding time the female sports a striking cherry-red colored belly. Even when not spawning they are attractive fish with many colors.

Rainbow Kribs do well in community tanks, however, their tank mates need to be carefully considered. Although generally peaceful, the Rainbow Krib may nip the fins of slow moving long finned tropical fish. Being bottom dwellers, it is best to house with fish that inhabit other areas of the tank, especially other species of cichlid.

Provide several caves in the tank for the fish to select as their own. The caves should have a single entry, be dark and stable. Half ceramic flower pots and coconut shells make great caves. Being territorial, these fish will compete with other fish seeking caves.

A well planted aquarium with some open spaces is ideal for them. They like to burrow and may uproot plants. Rainbow Kibs can tolerate a wide range of water conditions.

Rainbow Kribs are omnivorous and will happily eat flake or pellet food. Supplement their diet with live or freeze dried foods of shrimp, brine shrimp, daphnia, mosquito lava and bloodworms.

Females are smaller than males and develop the bright red spot on their stomachs when in breeding condition. Males are longer and thinner and less colored.

If you decide to breed this species, it is best to do so with them in their own tank. Males become very aggressive whilst spawning and when caring for the fry. Offer several caves for breeding and make sure the substrate gravel is fine (under 3mm). Fry and eggs get lost in larger gravel.

Condition the pair of cichlids with a generous diet that includes live foods. The female will display her red-cherry abdomen when she is ready to spawn. She will embark on an enticing courtship display. She may become aggressive as well during this time.

The pair will dig the gravel beneath the cave when preparing to spawn. 200-300 eggs will be laid. The female will stay in the cave with eggs, then fry until the fry are free swimming. The male will defend the territory. When leaving the cave, the fry will stick to their parents closely.

Feed free swimming fry newly hatched brine shrimp and finely crumbled flake food. The parents (or may only be one parent as they may begin to fight) will remain with the fry for 2-4 weeks.

Maybe this hardy African dwarf cichlid is the one for you. Easy to keep and breed and fun to watch!

Yellow Dwarf – Apistogramma borellii

Dwarf Cichlids

 

Apistogramma borellii or Yellow Dwarf Cichlid (Umbrella Cichlid) enjoys a well-planted aquarium with good depths and plenty of caves. They are peaceful, hardy and are tolerant to a wide range of water conditions. The Yellow Dwarf are an ideal choice for beginners due to their peaceful nature, hardiness and easy mix within a community tank.

Males grow to around 3 inches, and females 2 inches. Being mostly carnivorous, they require a diet rich in live and freeze-dried foods.

These small fish are compatible with most non-aggressive fish. Great tank mates include barbs, danios, tetras, live bearers.

They can take a wide range of water conditions, however, to be ideal a temperature of 75 – 81F, a pH of 5.0 – 7.0 and a water harness of between 1 – 10 dGH.

The female is more colorful than the male, yet the finnage of the male is somewhat more spectacular.

This species dwells near the bottom of the tank, requiring a substrate they can sift through and burrow into. Hobbyists will enjoy watching them excavating their territories using their mouths. The downside is they tend to dig up plants (use deep rooted plants and weighted stones and driftwood to hold them down). They like the shade of floating leaves and are used to tannins in creeks and rivers. So floating Indian Almond Leaves helps with providing a natural environment for them.

The Yellow Dwarf Cichlid is a harem species where several females live in a colony with one male. They make excellent parents to a brood of fry. The female will tend to the brood, whilst the male protects them and defends the territory.

During breeding the male becomes very territorial. 50-100 eggs will be laid in a line on flat shale, rocks or within the cave. The male will follow behind her and fertilize the eggs. The eggs hatch in about two days and the fry free swimming in about 5 days. Feed newly hatched brine shrimp.

The fry can be left with their mother for two to three weeks before being removed to their own tank.

Turn down water pumps to reduce water flow in the tank during breeding.

When buying your first Yellow Dwarf Cichlids by a group of about six. It is unlikely you’ll be able to sex young fish. They will sort themselves out over time.

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Appropriate Feeding for South American Cichlids

In nature, South American Cichlids have a preference for insect larvae, small worms and other invertebrates. In aquariums they readily accept commercial flake or pellet food. It is important to offer them live or freeze-dried high protein foods, especially leading up to breeding time. South American cichlids are mostly carnivores. Check individual species for their dietary requirements.

Correct Maintenance for South American Cichlids

South American Dwarf cichlids are quite resilient and can live within wide water parameters. Periodic partial water changes are an important component of maintenance, as well as cleaning of the substrate and filters. With efficient biological filters and an aquarium that is not over stoked, water changes are not as important.

Many cichlids come from ‘backwater’ creeks and drains and live in amongst decaying leaves and weeds. The water can be quite acidic containing tannin. Keeping this in mind, it may be a good idea that these fish have access to plant material both living and dead. Dead leaves (of sea almond, beech oak or walnut), Alder cones, Indian Almond or peat. With some species, this will entice fish to breed.

Ornaments

Oak leaves that sit on the bottom of the tank are great since they remain stiff while wet. Dwarf cichlids love to swim through the labyrinth of leaves and to live in leafy habitats. You need plenty of rockwork, caves, passages, flower pots, coconut shells, driftwood and/or other ornaments.

Substrate

Some species of Dwarf cichlids live in environments where the substrates are mostly mud or sand. Many species enjoy sifting through sand to find food or to excavate their ‘dens’. Having a layer of gravel an inch or more deep will provide plenty of substrate for digging. If breeding cichlids, it is better to have a small diameter substrate (less than 3mm) as fry and eggs can be lost in the amongst the gravel. Certain species of cichlid prefer dark gravel, and others light.

Plants

Dwarf cichlids do not eat or damage aquatic plants, so you can use pretty much any species of plant that tolerate water levels. Some Dwarf cichlids will uproot plants when digging. Use plants with good roots and pin them down with stones.  Floating plants replicate the wild, providing shade and shelter from predator fish. These may be a good addition.

Final Thoughts

There are plenty of Dwarf cichlids that are suitable for a peaceful community aquarium. Always do your research and parry up your new cichlids with other aquatic creatures that enjoy the same water parameters as them. If you introduce Dwarf Cichlids to your aquarium it is certain that you’ll be entertained and the decision won’t be regrettable, in fact it is highly likely that you become addicted to this quirky species!

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The Complete Guide to Peacock Gudgeon Care

Trevor Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Care Guides, Freshwater Fish (info and tips), Info and Tips, Tropical Freshwater (guides), Tropical Freshwater Fish (Care Guides) ,
Peacock Gudgeon

Aquarium maintenance with peacock gudgeons (Teurndina ocellicauda) is relatively easy. Just like with any other fish species, you need to know what your fish loves to eat, its preferred tankmates, how they reproduce, and the proper water parameters. This article explains how to provide proper care for peacocks. It is worth noting that, although some refer to this fish as a type ofGoby, it is not a true Goby as it does not feature fused pectoral fins.

Are Peacock Gudgeons suitable for aquariums?

 

The peacock gudgeon is a great choice for a novice in the fish-keeping hobby. It’s easy to maintain as long as you’re changing the water monthly and looking after the tank’s condition. The life expectancy for these fish is 4-5 years in captivity. They interact well with other species in their tank. Their behavior is peaceful, though territorial with members of the same species or brightly colored dwarf cichlids. The aquarium decoration should contain enough plants and refuges to hide, especially since they like to lay their eggs in caves. They are ideal to be keep in an aquarium planted with soft water and slightly acidic pH, in addition to little water flow. In aquariums with little or no decoration, they are quite shy. The aquarium must be covered well; they are excellent jumpers.

Peacock Gudgeon

Overview

The Peacock Gudgeon (scientific name:Tateurndina ocellicauda) originates from Papua New Guinea where it occurs in streams, lakes and rivers.It is also seen in Australia and New Zealand.

These fish are easy maintain and entertaining to watch. The hobbyist should be careful to provide high quality nutrition and water conditions, as with any aquaculture environment.

Origin & Appearance

The gudgeon peacock is a tropical fresh water species within the Eleotridae family of species. Members of this family are popularly known as gudgeons. The species is found in the east of Papua New Guinea. Peacock gudgeons are often known for their colors such as silver, pink, blue and yellow slits on their tail. It is one of the most beautiful freshwater fish with striking color varieties – hence their common name, “peacock”.They also are small with the males’ length reaching a three-inch limit on maturity, female being even smaller. Males are larger and more colorful and have a round head with a slight bulge. A large black spot along the fish’s ventricle fin is very similar to the black spot on their caudals.

Life span

Peacock gudgeons’ average life span is 4-5 years in captivity. Poor water conditions can shorten their lives significantly and cause a host of diseases. The key to keeping them healthy is to keep the tank properly running properly with periodic maintenance and quality food. Like all other fish, they are sensitive to extreme changes. However, the peacock gudgeon is often an especially resilient fish in a number of environments.

Are Peacock Gudgeons Right For You?

If you’re a starter who never owned a fish tank before, the peacock gudgeon is a very good start for you. It’s so easy to maintain, has lovely colors and is especially interesting to watch. Once you know what to do, you can gradually introduce new species into your aquarium. In the end, maintaining peacocks should be enjoyable if you have the right setup.

Temperament & General Behavior

Peacock gudgeons are quiet. They won’t pose problems with other nonaggressive creatures that are nearly as big. These fish are usually happiest with groups up to eight. However, a group needs a large aquarium, even though they are peaceful fish; aggression can still happen between males. They coexist peacefully with smaller fish as well. If your fish are comfortable with the environment, you can see them swimming in open areas to show off their pretty looks.

Care and Keeping in a Tank

A small tank of 40 liters (~10USgallons) could fit several fish. Peacock gudgeons feel secure around big number of floating plants; have a number of refuges for them in the tank. It is possible to make the foundation using medium grained sand up to 5mm or smaller gravel. Generally, the fish jumps easily, so be careful to avoid small gaps around container lid. It is recommended to carry out water renewal once per week.

Habitat and Tank Conditions

Peacock gudgeons don’t go as fast as, for example, the Bloodfin Tetra. They prefer a lush and colorful aquarium, since that reminds them of their natural habitat in waters and ponds in Oceania. Crystal clear, densely planted and medium flow waters are preferred. Anubias, Javafern, and waterwisteria are excellent choices for peacocks. They enjoy lying around plants whenever they’re threatened by an attack, and they often swim through tanks with these plants. Rocks and driftwood also keep them happy. You may see their hues becoming lighter when they are placed behind live plants. They like to rest on the substrate under foliage and decorations, so a part of the substrate should be kept free.

What to Include in Their Habitat

Peacock gudgeons are perfectly good fish to have when your aquarium is heavily enriched with aquatic life. When designing a tank, implement a large variety of hardy plants. The fish use the plants for hiding when they feel threatened. Sand is safer to fish than gravel and rocks. There is no specific filter requirement for the peacock gudgeon, just check that your chosen equipment is powerful enough to cycle your tank and keep the nitrates level low. The more plants you have, the happier your fish will be. A good filtering system is ideal to manage the large amount of excreta that these fish produce.

Plants and Decorations

Even in the wild, peacock gudgeons may often be found within areas that contain an abundance of plants. Java fern, Java Moss, Anubias and Water Wisteria plants would best suit your fish tank. Try to include as many real aquarium plants in an aquarium as possible. More plants means happier peacocks so long as there are no crowding the tank. Keep plants to be durable. On top of that you can add some rocks and driftwood to create some sort of cave for peacocks to build nests.

Lighting

Peacock gudgeons like dim lighting but you can put some light into your fish tank. You can also use a light adjusting lamp to adjust the light intensity depending on the time of day on the other sources of light in your home. It is interesting for the aquarist to play with the lighting and the type of setup with these fish. Providing undergrowth as well as strong lighting that which illuminates around 30% of the aquarium causes a very magical effect in the aquarium, and fish can seek out both light and darkness. Peacocks, when well acclimated and stress-free, have no aversion to bright light.

Substrate

The best substrate for peacock gudgeons is light sand – or a bare bottom. Very dark sand, like black sand, will influence the color of the fish.

How many Peacock Gudgeons can be kept?

A general rule of thumb requires a minimum amount of 15 gallons per gudgeon. For larger groups and multi-species communities, larger fish tanks might be needed. They are relatively small and don’t swim very much. It’s most to monitor behavior; monitor the fish in case of groups with more than one male in order to prevent aggression and stress.

Water parameters

It is good practice to test all physical and chemicalparameters occasionally to make sure they are stable, as these parameters can fluctuate without youknowing it if you do not monitor them. Here are the recommended levels for various water parameters: pH 6.5 to 7.5, hardness 5 to 10, T 22° to 28° C. The key to aquarium life is stability, especially in freshwater tanks, and it is important to keep the pH stable in your tank at a steady level.

Peacock Gudgeon Care

Peacock Gudgeon care is relatively easy compared to other fish. However,like any others, these fish need carefully engineered environments and stable water conditions for proper health.

Diet

In their natural environment, peacock gudgeons feed on small invertebrates, insects and insect larvae. They are omnivorous, and in an aquarium, they will readily accept dry and live food. Their colors are more striking when they are fedlive foods like daphnia, bloodworm shrimp, and brine shrimp.

Gender Differences: Male vs Female

Both males and females have black spots where their tail fin ends. Males are bigger and yellower, and their heads are bigger. Abdominal fins on fish are generally colorless, but during mating the females’ turn black and the males’ become brown with a bluish color. Sexual dimorphism is evident, males being larger and more colorful and having a round head with a slight bulge. In the breeding season, females have yellow on their abdomen. When young, females have a dark spot along the entire edge of their dorsal fins, while most males do not.

Difficulties in Keeping

The fish is not big, calm, not aggressive — in general it is almost perfect for those who love bright and small fish. The only drawback of the fish is that it is susceptible to infectious maladies.

Potential Diseases

Peacock Gudgeon has two conditions on his scalp. Ich is highly infectious and often affects peacock gudgeons. Anchor worms and fluke attacks can also cause problems with these fish. The most effective way to prevent your fish from acquiring these diseases is to maintain excellent water quality and not accidentally bringing diseases into their tank from other objects or species. Ich is easily treated by increasing the temperature and breaking the parasite’s cycle. Fluke and anchor worms can be treated with manual removal, constant substrate aspiration and salt baths.

Best Freshwater Aquarium Sharks | Aquarium Hunter

Trevor Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Care Guides, Freshwater Aquarium Sharks (Care Guides), Freshwater Fish (info and tips), Info and Tips , , 2,191 Comments

If you’re interested in sharks, you’ve probably wondered if you could have one as a pet.

Can you have a shark as a pet? While the ocean swim varieties are too large for hobby tanks, there are many shark species that are suitable for freshwater aquariums and ponds. We’ve rounded up the most popular species and created this detailed maintenance guide to help you design the best tank for your freshwater aquarium sharks.

While it is nearly impossible to have a real shark as a pet, there are many freshwater aquarium sharks that thrive in a home aquarium.

Technically, these fish are not real sharks.

They are large shark-like fish that normally belong to the catfish or carp family.

That said, they often look and act like sharks, which is how they earned their name.

We’ve put together a comprehensive list of the best freshwater sharks to keep in your tank. Some are big, some small, but they are all great!

Best 10 Types of Freshwater Aquarium Sharks

Best Freshwater Aquarium Sharks Review

1. Bala Shark

Freshwater Aquarium Sharks

Young Bala sharks are only about 3 inches long, but don’t let their small size fool you. On average, they grow to about 12 inches (30 cm) in length in adulthood, although they can reach up to 20 inches.

Bales need an aquarium that is at least 75 gallons and at least four feet long to give them enough room to stretch their fins. Bullets, like most freshwater sharks, thrive in a large tank, so it’s a good idea to buy the largest you can afford.

Taking care of them is quite easy. They are not picky eaters, but they are omnivores and love a variety of foods.

A good idea about bullet sharks is that they are not particularly aggressive, so you should not be too careful when choosing tankmates.

Make sure what you choose is too big to fit in the muzzle of a bullet and not too aggressive.

2. Red Tail Shark

Freshwater Aquarium Sharks

The red-tailed shark has a very distinctive appearance. The sleek black body and bright red tail really stand out in a planted tank.

In fact, their preferred environment is one with plenty of hiding places among plants, rocks and driftwood, so a planted tank is the perfect place for them.

One thing to keep in mind is that these sharks don’t like each other, so you can only have one in your tank.

Also avoid other sharks and catfish, as well as fish with long fins. Red tail sharks are very territorial and can be quite aggressive.

These sharks are not picky eaters, but they do like a variety of meats and plant foods. A flake-based diet pellet is fine, but adding a few brine shrimp several times a week will make your red tail very happy.

3. Iridescent Shark

Freshwater Aquarium Sharks

If you’re looking for a shark that’s, well, giant, the iridescent shark is about 3 inches long as a juvenile, but it can grow to over 50 inches.

To keep an iridescent shark, you need an aquarium of at least 300 gallons.

Under the right conditions, iridescent sharks will live up to 20 years if cared for properly. While it may be tempting to keep them in a smaller tank, it’s not a good idea. This pet is definitely an investment and is not for everyone.

While iridescent sharks are technically catfish, they don’t feed on the bottom. They are very active and need a lot of space to swim at different levels in the aquarium.

Iridescent sharks are very gentle, but they will eat any fish they can fit in their mouths, and because they grow so big they will eventually be able to eat almost anything. If you really want tank mates, try aluminum foil skewers or plecos.

4. Silver Apollo Shark

Freshwater Aquarium Sharks

Silver Apollos are actually schools of fish that are quite passive and grow to about 6 inches (15 cm) in length.

Since they like company, it is best to keep them in groups of 5 or more. They are fast swimmers and can even jump out of the tank, so make sure to keep it covered.

Although they are easy to feed and peaceful in nature, silver apoli can be difficult to maintain as they are very sensitive to pH changes and even the slightest amount of ammonia and nitrites in water. They require a strong filter and a 25% weekly water change.

These freshwater sharks are quite easy to live with as long as their fellow residents are not small enough to be eaten.

While not aggressive, they are fast and live close to the surface, so they will compete for food and may prevent slower fish from getting enough to eat.

5. Rainbow Shark

Freshwater Aquarium Sharks

Another freshwater shark that is actually a catfish is the rainbow shark. They are a great addition to a planted tank.

Since they like a lot of hiding places, you should give them lots of dense plants, caves and burrows for them to explore.

Rainbow sharks are very territorial and should not be kept with other sharks, especially red tail sharks. If you’re looking for aquarium mates, try fish larger than them with a similar temperament. They should not be overly aggressive, but still be able to defend themselves.

Rainbows will chase peaceful fish, so avoid them at all costs.

Although rainbows prefer the bottom of the tank, they have tender points around their mouths that can be easily injured.

Choosing the right substrate is essential to avoid injury. Only use a sandy or slippery surface as larger, rougher rocks can cause some damage.

These fish tend to stay at the bottom of the tank, but will explore everywhere. Believe it or not, they are actually very good jumpers, so make sure to keep the top of the tank covered.

6. Violet Blushing Shark

Freshwater Aquarium Sharks

Unlike other freshwater aquarium sharks, the Violet Blushing Shark is quite passive. It does not show territorial behavior as you would see it in other species. As a result, they do well in community tanks.
That said, you should still avoid keeping these fish with smaller creatures that they can see for food. They do best with medium sized fish.

Violet blush sharks get their name from their unique appearance. The fish are covered with a silvery white color. You can see some glow on their bodies, but only when they are under powerful lights.

The bodies are transparent, allowing you to see individual organs. The most prominent feature of the shark’s body is the gills. The gills are visible through the body, making it look like a fish is blushing!

Keeping an aquarium in good condition is crucial for these fish. They need stable temperatures between 68 and 78 degrees to stay healthy. That’s not all. The Violet Blushing Shark should also have plenty of room for swimming.

7. Columbian Shark

Freshwater Aquarium Sharks

Here’s a strain that can be quite challenging to care for. The Colombian shark has strict care requirements. Unfortunately, there is a lot of misinformation circulating.

Contrary to popular belief, these are not entirely freshwater sharks. When they are young, they need brackish water to stay healthy. When you set up your aquarium, you should add a little sea salt to make sure the specific gravity is between 1.005 and 1.010.

Colombian sharks also tend to be troublesome when kept with other fish. These are predatory creatures that prey on smaller species of fish. That’s why you want to avoid smaller passive fish.

Another way to prevent predatory behavior is to keep your fish well fed. The Colombian shark thrives on a high-protein diet of live and frozen foods. They also work well with pellets and commercial dry food. However, they prefer live food that they can hunt.

In appearance, these fish are one of the most shark-like species you can get for your tank. They have a large sail-shaped dorsal fin. Their bodies are usually covered in shades of black, gray, and silver.

On the heads of the fish you will notice that they have several pairs of long barbs. These chins are used to navigate their environment and hunt for food.

8. Black Shark

Freshwater Aquarium Sharks

The black shark is covered in black and has that familiar profile that many freshwater sharks share. This includes a huge dorsal fin. When the fish is swimming, the dorsal fin will generally be relatively flat against its rounded body. However, he will also occasionally stand up while the fish is showing off.

The black shark can become very aggressive and predatory. They should not be kept with small fish species. Most aquarists will house them along with other aggressive species that can handle the intimidating nature of the black shark. This includes some types of cichlids.

Interestingly, these fish do not require a pure protein diet. Some proteins are good, but they are omnivores who will eat almost anything. They have a predilection for foods of plant origin. In fact, these fish are known to eat plants.

Therefore, the Black Shark is recommended for tanks that are scarce in the plant department. They do best with plenty of open space for swimming. Many caves are also recommended for them to have places to rest.

9. Roseline Shark

Freshwater Aquarium Sharks

These flashy fish are absolutely amazing! The Roseline Shark is covered in several bright colors that look great against a natural background. You see red, black and gold stripes. Green and yellow spots are also quite common.
Like all freshwater sharks, these fish have a pronounced dorsal fin. In the case of Roseline Sharks, the dorsal fin is accented with a vibrant fiery red stripe.

Roseline sharks are actually part of the baleen family and are some of the smallest freshwater aquarium sharks you can get. However, this can be good when it comes to temperament.

For the most part, these sharks will not be a problem in terms of aggression. They are quite peaceful and pay no attention to other fish in the community. In groups of four to six, the fish will look even better and show playful behavior.

Roseline sharks can tolerate a wide variety of conditions. They can stay healthy in temperatures between 60 and 77 degrees, although somewhere in between is preferred. What they do need is a strong current. Fish are naturally found in rivers and streams, so it is essential to replicate them with a powerful pump.

10. Harlequin Shark

Freshwater Aquarium Sharks

Known scientifically as Labeo cyclorhynchus, harlequin sharks are an interesting addition to freshwater tanks. They are quite beautiful. However, the fish is known to lead a very solitary life.
They don’t like to be around other fish. In fact, they are known to be very territorial against similar looking species. That means you can’t keep them in groups or with other freshwater sharks.

However, you can house them with some fish if you have enough space. The harlequin shark is a bottom-dwelling fish and spends most of its time in hiding. Therefore, they can be kept with larger species that stay towards the top of the water column.

What is a Freshwater Aquarium Shark?

Domestic sharks are not real sharks, but fish that resemble sharks. There is a wide variety of shark-like fish that make great aquarium pets, and some are even great for community tanks! These small species of freshwater sharks have some similarities with each other:

  • Mini sharks have long torpedo-shaped bodies and erect, prominent dorsal fins. It is also common to see deeply forked flukes (tails) on freshwater sharks.
  • They are usually members of the catfish or carp family and act as omnivorous scavengers, eating plant matter such as algae and other animals.
  • Sharks are generally active and entertaining pets that like to swim in strong currents, and many species will congregate if kept in groups.

 

How to Setup a Shark Aquarium?

When deciding which freshwater shark is your preference, you should research the specific requirements for the aquarium.

That said, there are a few basic things most of these freshwater sharks have in common when it comes to their environment.

Tank size and environment

One of the most important things to consider when it comes to a shark tank is size. These are large fish, very large fish in some cases, and you will need a tank of at least 100 gallons. If you choose a larger variety, you may be looking for a 300 gallon tank.

While you’ll need to research the specific shark you’re raising, most species prefer heavily planted tanks with plenty of hiding places.

Most freshwater shark species originate from major rivers in Central America, South America, and Southeast Asia, and you should try to mimic that environment.

Artificial plants will work, but live plants are better. Be sure to add plenty of rocks, wood, and caves along the bottom of the tank where they can hide and establish their own territory.

Part of setting up an aquarium is the other fish in the community and it is worth mentioning again that freshwater sharks should only be kept with fish that are too large to eat and of uniform character.

Water Requirements

Most freshwater sharks can tolerate a fairly wide pH range with temperatures between 74 and 80 degrees F. There are some specific requirements for each shark.

For example, Colombian sharks prefer brackish water and silver apollo sharks are very sensitive to ammonia.

Filtration is very important, as is water change. You should change 10% of the water weekly (25% with silver apoli) and be sure to use an aquarium vacuum cleaner to clean up uneaten food and other debris.

What to Feed Freshwater Aquarium Sharks?

Freshwater sharks are omnivores and are not picky about what they eat. For most species, their diet consists of flakes, granules, or freeze-dried foods.

Pickled shrimp, vegetables and some live foods should be given several times a week to add some variety.

If you’re not sure what to add to your diet, try seaweed wafers, insect larvae, crustaceans, brine shrimp, and bloodworms. As for veggies, add some spinach, lettuce, zucchini, and peas a few times a week to keep your immune system strong.

Keep in mind that most freshwater sharks don’t hesitate to eat or attempt to eat their fellow residents, so make sure you do your best to satisfy their appetites.

How to Feed Aquarium Shark?

Most freshwater sharks feed on the bottom. Some will come up for pellets and flakes from time to time, but for the most part they will eat what sinks to the bottom of the tank.

Feeding should be done 2 to 3 times a day. Feed your sharks all they can eat in 5 minutes.

If there is any food left at the end of this period, you are probably feeding your sharks too much. Be sure to clean up everything to keep ammonia levels under control.

One of the important things to keep in mind when feeding a freshwater shark is that they are quite aggressive and will easily prevent less aggressive fish from eating enough.

This is another reason why it is so important to have the right roommates for a freshwater shark.

Conclusion

Now that you’ve seen the full list of popular freshwater aquarium sharks, it’s time to pick the ones you’re most interested in. While some of them might be too large to consider for your setup at home, many of the smaller sharks on this list are totally viable.

No matter what your level of experience is (or the amount of time you wish to spend), there should be a species for you! If you have any questions about a species on this list, we’re more than happy to help you out. Freshwater sharks are some of our favorite fish!

10 Best Freshwater Aquarium Sharks – Types of, Setup & Care Guide

Trevor Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Freshwater Aquarium Sharks (Care Guides), Freshwater Fish (info and tips), Info and Tips , , 1,506 Comments
10 Best Freshwater Aquarium Sharks – Types of, Setup & Care Guide

Best Freshwater Aquarium Sharks: If you are interested in sharks, you have probably wondered if you want one as a pet.

While keeping a real shark as a pet is nearly impossible, there are plenty of freshwater aquarium sharks that thrive in a home aquarium.

Technically speaking, these fish are not true sharks.

They are large, shark-like fish that normally belong to the catfish or carp family.

I mean, they look and often behave like sharks, and that’s how they earned their name.

Interest in freshwater aquarium sharks has increased rapidly in recent years. People can’t have enough!

It is great to have a shark no matter what type it is. These iconic fish have been an integral part of our relationship with water for hundreds of years.

If you see a freshwater shark swimming in your aquarium, it will never age.

So we did the following:

We have compiled a complete list of the best freshwater sharks you can keep in your aquarium. Some are big, some small, but all are amazing!

10 Types of Best Freshwater Aquarium Sharks

1. Bala Shark

Young Bala sharks are only about 5 cm long, but don’t be fooled by their small size. On average, they become about a foot long in adulthood, although they can reach up to 20 inches.

Balas need an aquarium that is at least 75 gallons in length and at least 4 feet in length so that they have enough space to stretch their fins. Balas, like most freshwater sharks, thrive in a large pool. So it’s a good idea to buy the biggest one you can afford.

Taking care of them is pretty easy. They are not picky eaters, but they are omnivores and like a variety of foods.

A good thought about bala sharks is that they are not particularly aggressive, so you don’t have to be too careful when choosing tank mates.

Just make sure that everything you choose is too big to fit in a Bala’s mouth and not too aggressive.

 

2. Red Tail Shark

Red-tailed sharks look very characteristic. The slender black body and the bright red tail are particularly noticeable in a planted tank.

In fact, their preferred environment is an environment with lots of hiding places between plants, rocks, and driftwood, so a planted tank is the perfect place for them.

One thing to keep in mind is that these sharks don’t like each other, so you can only have one in your aquarium.

Avoid other sharks and catfish, as well as fish with long fins. Red-tailed sharks are very territorial and can be very aggressive.

These sharks are not fussy about food, but like a variety of meat and plant foods. A flake-based pellet is fine, but if you add prawns a couple of times a week, your red tail stays very happy.

 

3. Columbian Shark

The Colombian shark is actually a big catfish and has the characteristic tall fins and long whiskers you expect.

You need an aquarium that is at least 75 gallons in size, and it must be configured to resemble your natural environment with lots of plants and stones.

Colombian sharks are not the easiest to hold and may not be ideal for beginners. They prefer brackish water and should switch to salty water in adulthood. Teenagers are approximately 3 inches long, but can reach 20 inches or more.

These fish are predators and eat anything in the tank that is small enough to fit in their mouths. They actually have toxic dorsal fins, so be very careful when servicing the tank.

 

4. Rainbow Shark

These creatures are sometimes called ruby ​​sharks or red fin sharks and give each freshwater tank a nice pop of color. Like the red-tailed shark, rainbow sharks also have a fiery red tail that stands out against a natural background. However, these fish also have bright red fins.

The fins are semi-transparent so you can see the sensitive rays. Each individual fin is red. Combine this color with the dark black tone of your body and you will have a very intimidating fish.

Rainbow sharks are generally not recommended for beginners. The reason for this is aggression. These are very territorial fish that are known to attack other creatures in the tank. It is an interesting behavioral trait that is not normally found in nature.

Despite their aggressive behavior, rainbow sharks can keep up with other fish. They are bottom dwellers, so you can support them with fish species that cling to the top of the water column. Assault is still possible, so you should always be careful.

 

5. Iridescent Shark

If you are looking for a giant shark, the ravishing shark is about 3 inches long as a cub, but can grow up to 50 inches.

To maintain a stunning shark, you need an aquarium with a capacity of at least 300 gallons.

In the right conditions, stunning sharks live with proper care for up to 20 years. It may be tempting to keep them in a smaller tank, but it is not a good idea. This pet is definitely an investment and not for everyone.

Although dazzling sharks are technically catfish, they are not bottom eaters. They are very active and need a lot of space to swim in the tank at different levels.

Iridescent sharks are very squishy, but they eat whatever fish are left in their mouths, and since they get so big, they can finally eat almost anything. If you really want tankmates, try spikes or tin foil spikes.

 

6. Silver Apollo Shark

Silver Apollos are actually school fish that are quite passive and grow up to 6 inches in length.

Because they like company, they are best kept in groups of 5 or more people. They are fast swimmers and can even jump out of the tank. So make sure it’s covered.

Although silver apollos are easy to feed and peaceful, keeping them can be difficult because they are very sensitive to changes in pH and even to the least amount of ammonia and nitrites in the water. They require a strong filter and 25% water changes every week.

These freshwater sharks are easy enough to live as long as their tankmates are not small enough to be eaten.

Although they are not aggressive, they are fast and live close to the surface, competing for food, and possibly preventing slower fish from eating enough.

 

7. Violet Blushing Shark

Unlike other freshwater aquarium sharks, the Violet Blushing Shark is quite passive. It does not show a territorial behavior as you would see it with other species. As a result, they do well in community tanks.

Still, you should avoid keeping these fish with smaller creatures that may consider them food. They are best suited for medium-sized fish.

Violet Blushing Sharks takes its name from its unique appearance. The fish are silvery white in color. You can see some glitter on their bodies, but only when they’re under some strong lights.

The bodies are transparent so you can see the individual organs. The most striking feature of the shark body is the gills. The gills are visible through the body and make it look like the fish is turning red!

It is important that these fish have a well-maintained tank. You need stable temperatures between 68 and 78 degrees to stay healthy. Thats not all. The purple blush shark should also have plenty of room to swim.

The biggest mistake new aquarists make with this species is filling the tank with too many decorations. Plants, driftwood, and rocks are important for making fish comfortable. But that’s a lot of open space for swimming! You must find the right balance to keep the purple blush shark in good shape.

 

8. Columbian Shark

Here’s a species that can be challenging to maintain. The Colombian shark has some strict maintenance requirements. Unfortunately, there is a lot of misinformation out there.

Contrary to popular belief, these sharks are not freshwater sharks. As teens, they need brackish water to stay healthy. When setting up the aquarium, you need to add a little sea salt to make sure the specific gravity is between 1,005 and 1,010.

Colombian sharks also tend to be troublesome when kept with other fish. These are predatory creatures that hunt smaller species of fish. Therefore, you should avoid smaller passive fish.

Another way to prevent predatory behavior is to feed the fish well. The Colombian shark lives on a diet rich in protein with live and frozen food. They are also suitable for commercially available dry food and pellets. However, they prefer live food that they can hunt.

 

9. Black Shark

The black shark is a large species of fish with a semi-aggressive nature. Originally found throughout Malaysia, these fish are very popular due to their forbidden appearance.

The black shark is all black and has the familiar profile that many freshwater sharks share. This includes a massive dorsal fin. When the fish is swimming, the dorsal fin is usually relatively flat against its rounded body. However, it will also be high from time to time when the fish brags.

The black shark can become very aggressive and predatory. They should not be kept with small fish species. Most aquarists will host them along with other aggressive species that can handle the intimidating nature of the black shark. This includes some types of cichlids.

Interestingly, these fish do not need a diet based on pure protein. Some proteins are good, but they are omnivorous that eat almost everything. They have a penchant for plant-based foods. In fact, these fish are known to eat plants.

Therefore, the black shark is recommended for tanks that are scarce in the factory department. It is best to do this with plenty of open space for swimming. Many caves are also recommended so you can rest.

 

10. Roseline Shark

These eye-catching fish are absolutely stunning! The Roseline Shark comes in various bright colors that look great in a natural setting. You will see red, black and gold stripes. Green and yellow spots are also quite common.

Like all freshwater sharks, these fish have a pronounced dorsal fin. At Roseline Sharks, the dorsal fin is accented with a bright and fiery red stripe.

Roseline sharks belong to the beard family and are among the smallest freshwater aquarium sharks you can get. However, this can be a good thing when it comes to temperament.

For the most part, these sharks will not be a problem with aggression. They are quite peaceful and do not pay attention to other fish in the community. In groups of four to six people, the fish fair improves even more and shows a playful behavior.

 

Conclusion

With their large size and physical characteristics, freshwater sharks are an interesting pet for any aquarium enthusiast who wants to beat them.

Taking care of a freshwater shark isn’t particularly difficult, but that doesn’t mean it’s right for everyone. These fish grow very large, 6 to 50 inches when fully grown.

They need large tanks that will give them the space they need to grow to their fullest potential.

Still, with the right tank and careful planning, you can create a beautiful home for your freshwater shark and a few tank mates that everyone will be talking about