Tropical Freshwater Fish (Care Guides)

[Ultimate] Balloon Molly Fish: The Complete Care Guide

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Molly Fish

Dive into the under water world of Balloon Molly Fish with this ultimate guide that provides comprehensive insights and expert tips for best care and enjoyment of these captivating small fish.

Molly Fish are one of the most commonly kept fishes in tropical aquariums. These brightly colored, playful little fish are easily kept happy and live among the peacefully surrounding community fish.

Mollies are a great first fish for newcomers to aquariums. This guide introduces you to the beautiful and exotic Balloon Molly, including a helpful care guide with the ability to keep your new fish.

What is a balloon Molly fish?

The balloon body Molly is a result of artificial selection through crosses carried out by breeders. This type of Molly is man-made and won’t be found in nature. Balloon Mollies are peaceful fish. Easy to maintain and offer an easy and safe option for beginners.

What is a Balloon Molly?

Molly Fish

Mollies are freshwater fish species that belong to the Poeciliidae family. There are about 300 species of Poecilia. Molly fish is native to North and Latin America and mainly lives in warm, dry tropical rivers, streams, ponds, and mangroves. They are livebearers. When kept in the right conditions, mollies may be held for up to five years. Alternatively, mollies may be kept in brackish and even saltwater.

Molly Fish Care Guide & Species Profile

The Molly fish has been one of the most bred by ornamental aquaculture for many years and is also a best seller in the sector’s stores. Molly fish come in a variety of colors and shapes. These are simple ways to add this beautiful fish to your tank. This article covers the popular balloon variety and explains their ideal setups, diet, and much more.

Balloon Molly Fish Characterization

This species resides primarily in Central and South America, mainly in salty and brackish waters. These little fish typically get color in white or silver. In natural environments, an average fish can reach 12 centimeters (around 4 inches). In the aquarium, they reach about 6 to 8 cm, 2.3 to 3.2 inches. The lifespan of this type of fish in captivity is usually 3-4 years.  Mollies present sexual dimorphism, being distinguished by a rounded anal fin in females and conical males. They have internal egg incubation, give birth to larvae, and are viviparous. They have a compressed body with a big belly, and even though they look like it, the organs are not contracted in the internal cavity.

Balloon Belly Molly Fish Body Shape & Size

Adult Mollies have a two-inch length, while their size is at most three inches or 7-8 centimeters. They have an arch-back and a rounded large belly with a lyr-shaped caudal fin and are unique in their character. It’s the smallest of all kinds of Mollies and the smallest of all types of fish. The maximum size is four inches, and the maximum can be almost five.

Poecilia sphenopsis

Molly Fish

Poecilia sphenops is a species of the Poecilia genus of fish known by the common name of Molly. They live in freshwater streams and coast brackish and sea waters from Mexico to northern Venezuela and Colombia. Wild-type fish are dull to dark silver-like in color. Male Mollies resemble a mild aggressive person. Mollies rank as one of the most popular feeder fish due to their high growth rate, birth size, reproduction, and brood numbers. Generally, the Molly can yield fertile hybrids with many species, the most significant being the Sailfin Molly.

Types and appearance

There are many species and types of Molly fish – most of them are very similar to common Molly Poecilia sphenops. Females have an anal fin spread into a fan, whereas males have a pointier tip. Males grow to 3 inches, and females become larger. Pregnant females will always look more significant than other ones. In addition, their bellies will get bigger as they become older.

Balloon Molly Fish: Care, Feed, Breeding, Tank Set

Mollies are among the best freshwater fish for beginners because they are hardy, fun, and easy to care for. These cute little creatures are just lovely embellishments for your aquarium. Here you can discover more about balloon mollies.

Molly Fish Care

The Balloon Molly fish is a tropical fish that originates from salty and brackish water but is easily adapted to freshwater. A teaspoon of salt per five-gallon of water can help them with some problems. The balloon trait is obtained by selectively breeding fish who develop scoliosis (spinated spine). Balloon Mollies often have a reduced lifespan because of the inefficiency of the body shape, low-quality offspring, and possible genetic problems.

Balloon Molly Fish Lifespan

We can extend the lifespan of our fish by organizing and improving their environment, making maintenance and water changes regularly, keeping the water parameters optimal for the species, and offering high-quality food. It’s easier to avoid diseases than treat them. Therefore, everything mentioned above contributes to maintaining the fish’s immune system, reducing occurrences. So if you buy a new fish or plant, place it in a quarantine tank first, then release it in the main aquarium for some days. If you want to introduce newly acquired fish in your aquarium, quarantine them for up to two weeks.

Doing water changes for Balloon Mollies

Perform weekly water changes in your aquarium, changing at least 30% of the total tank volume. By changing the water, we remove pollutants and toxins that the plants and bacterias will not cycle. When you use tap water, treat it with a water conditioner. Tap water has chlorine, chloramine, and other substances that can be harmful to the aquarium and fish, so you must treat it. In each maintenance, the substrate must be cleaned perfectly, vacuumed, siphoning all the dirt; the aquarist must pay special attention to decorations and spaces where dirt can be trapped.

Aquarium size for balloon mollies

A 20+ Gallon water container should be able to hold around 12 fish. Mollies, especially those that resemble balloons in size, do produce vast volumes of waste. They need a lot of swimming spaces to remain healthy and grow to their full size. A larger tank will offer fewer risks and provide an even wider range of habitat. There are plenty of other factors to think about putting more than two Molly fish in each gallon of water; the more important is the filtration and your maintenance schedule.

Aquarium Setup For Balloon Molly Fish

Unlike other aquarium fishes, some setups are somewhat debatable topics. We will discuss the various aspects of every part of this.

How do I care for balloon mollies?

Balloon Mollies can be pretty easy to keep. They stay comfortable using the standard tropical tank arrangement.

Do balloon mollies need a filter?

Balloon belly Mollies like to stay in the water in larger aquariums without filtering, but you should always add a filter in the tank. Choose the filter that best suits your system, and remember to mainly use biological filtration, well-sized, with the use of ceramics or sponges or suchlike. The biologic filter also ensures the ability to fully cycle its tank and protect water against ammonia surges daily. Thicker substrates may help create an anoxic region that nourishes some types of beneficial bacterias, but that’s a subject for another article; stay tuned.

Do balloon mollies need live plans?

Mollies don’t necessarily need plants, but they like them and use them for food and hiding. Live plants also help with aquarium nutrient cycling and beautification. Plants can also improve water cleanliness by removing nitrous-based contaminants from the water, using it as fertilizer to grow. If you want a straightforward setup without the expensive CO2-based system, you can choose easy-to-care plans like those known as low-tech. This plant does not require intense light and the addition of a CO2 system. Sometimes you may want to help them with liquid fertilizers.

Do balloon mollies need a heater?

Heaters, as well as filters, are always necessary for the proper maintenance of any fish. Heaters will keep the temperature stable. Fluctuations in parameters cause a drop in the efficiency of the animals’ immune system. Balloon Belly Mollies are especially susceptible to these fluctuations.

Balloon Molly Fish Tank Mates

It would help if you didn’t mix balloon Mollies with Cherry-shrimp; otherwise, they will turn into a snack. Amano shrimps can grow to 3 to 4 inches in size and can’t breed in freshwater aquariums, and, being pacific, are an excellent choice for a tankmate. If you like snails in your aquarium, you can choose some apple snail or ramshorn. If in a community tank for other fish species, you should select calm and small fish only.

Tank Mates

Large fish may eat your mollies. Betta fish are too aggressive as they fight or harass your fish. Cichlids are a group consisting of diverse bad cases. Most invertebrates live well in the same tank as mollies, but some turn into food. Shrimp and snails are popular options, and there are many species to choose from. Most small peaceful community fish are okay; fish to avoid are large or aggressive.

Are Molly fish suitable for an aquarium?

There are no reasons not to get Mollies. They are perfect for community aquariums. It would be best if you avoided large and aggressive fish as tankmates. Their health depends on the conditions of the tank that should be within their prescribed parameters. Mollies can tolerate a vast range; therefore, you could put them in various types of tanks. They are easy to care for and easy to breed and they have many colors and are very active in the tank.

Balloon Mollies by colors & fins

They are usually different sizes and shapes compared to the other Molly fish. Their fundamental disparity occurs due to body shape and size. The different types of balloon fish can be categorized according to the style of fins. Some fishes have sailfin dorsals or lyretail fins.

Balloon Molly Shape Color & Size

Balloon mollies are about 2 to 5 inches in size. The balloon molly’s namesake was taken from their round, “overweight” form. Balloon mollies come in a variety of colors: silver, black, orange, white, etc. Like typical black Molly, females have a little larger belly than males. The fins of the Ballon Molly females are rounded, while the males have a sailing-like dorsal body.

Habitat and tank conditions

Mollys are found living within different habitats in the wild. They most commonly occur in deep rivers and streams in North, Central, and South America. They have adapted easily over multiple environments. Plants would also be plentiful; they mainly use them to hide, but they are also crucial for reproduction. This lake is in tropical climates bringing ample amount of sunlight for plant growth. The water would be warm and slowly moving. pH is upon the alkaline side.

Sickness & Disease

It is recommended that you be attentive to Molly’s behavior. Always looking and noticing the animal’s misbehavior can help you save it. If the balloon’s belly rubs on the rocks, then a potential cause of the problem could be fungal or external parasite infection. If it swims upsidedown, you need to change the water immediately since it means poor water quality. There may be many reasons for this happens. Before giving any other conclusions, you have to seek advice from your local aquarist.

Breeding

Mollies are livebearers, so their eggs are incubated into the body till the fry be released. These are also some of the most accessible fish groups to grow in captivity. Conditions inside breeding tanks must be perfect, and the water should be clean. It may be easier or better to raise the temperature for mating, but not much above 78° F. Male performs a courting show for females, and when they are ready for mating, males fertilize their eggs. After fertilizing, it takes 3-4 weeks for fry to be released.

Breeding: Things to do for successful mating

Mollies are a livebearer because they don’t lay eggs. During the reproductive period, female Mollies give birth to over 100 tiny Molly fry. You can keep three males for two females for breeding purposes. The male shall use his gonopodium or pointed fin when breeding. You can separate the fry for the breeding group.

How do you tell if a balloon molly is male or female?

Both male and female Mollies have rounded or pointed dorsal fins that separate them from each other. Do not leave the molly fish alone. Keep at least a group of Molly fish together because, if not, it can increase the chance of bullying or injuries. Make sure it stayed in at least pairs. You should also maintain the gender ratio between the men and women in 2:1 inside the tanks.

Availability

Almost all varieties of mollies are available in fish shops. They are easily affordable at only a few dollars per fish. The most unusual kinds are more expensive.

Best tankmate for Balloon Belly Molly

Molly fish is a fish with a peaceful temperament who prefers to live with fish of the same kind. A pair could happily live with other fish. Female Mollies most commonly have calmer characters than males. Males are often quite aggressive if they have other males in the tank. Their best fish buddies would be others livebearers’ fish since their smaller size allows their compatibility with some different fish of the exact nature.

Diseases

Mollies are generally healthy, robust fish, although they can suffer from typical tropical fish diseases. Poor water quality is a determinant factor of illness. To keep the water clear, you need to install a good-quality mechanical and biological filtration system and proceed with weekly partial water changes. Check Ammonia and Nitrite amounts with a test kit.

Balloon Molly Diseases Parasites and Remedies

The most common diseases in balloon molly fish are ich/ick(white spot), velvet(gold dust), fin rot, and flukes. Unfortunately, some conditions are harder to treat, like dropsy, swimming bladder disorder, bent spinal, or tuberculosis. You can find out more about the most commonly known parasites and diseases in another very detailed article. As long as the animals are eating good quality food and the water conditions in the fish tank are good, the fish should have no problems.

Male to Female Balloon Molly Ratio

Female mollie gives birth to fry every three-and-a-half weeks. In your community tank, you should have one male to more than two females. So the females will get time to rest and stay calm without the continual harassment by the male. It would be best to keep the ratio to 1 male to 3 females, thus reducing the stress placed on females by eager males.

What should I feed them?

Molly fish eat only vegetable origin feeding. Algae are a significant portion of their diet. They remove them with their lips. It is also important to have vegetables. If you introduce carotenoids to the food, it should keep your Molly Fish vibrant with colors. Live and frozen food provide an excellent source of protein. In this respect, bloodworms and brine shrimp are happily accepted and recommended. Feed them twice daily. This helps their immune system process their food.

Conclusion

Most strains of Molly fish are fun and easy to keep in an aquarium. Their only prerequisite is a large tank, which often exceeds 30 gallons. A few types require you to add a small quantity of salt to the water, so you need to ensure your fish are living well.

[Care Tips] The 20 Best Algae Eaters For Your Freshwater Tank

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Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank

Each algae eater has a unique mouth shape that is suitable to eat several different types of algae. Ensure that your Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank is in its most healthy condition with supplemental nutrients and the appropriate lighting. Do some maintenance work before you add them. Think about adding more algae eater critters to the aquarium to keep the types of algae out of the tank. Check out some awe-inspiring algae-eating animals.

What is an algae eater?

The term algae eater is used to describe species that feed on algae either exclusively or in part of their natural feed. An algae eater can be a species of animal or even an invertebrate like snails or shrimp. Some algae eaters ate particular types of algae, and others grazed much more knowingly on numerous different species. Some may consume plants in aquariums. The algae eater fish, also known as the cleaning crew, can avoid algae in the water.

The Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank

Algae eaters have been a part of aquarium-keeping hobbies for centuries because they provide a vital balance to the natural habitat that every one of us is trying to recreate. Bristlenose Plecos are healthy algae-eating fish that can tolerate the most peaceful tankmates. Cherry Shrimp are easily one the Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank in the area and relatively easy to care for. Malaysian Trumpet snail can eat out all algae in your tank. Algaes can quickly take all of your tanks if you are unable to control them properly. Read this article and learn more about keeping freshwater algae cleaners crew for your tanks. Best Algae Eaters

Types of freshwater algae

Algae is the catch term of vegetable aquatic organisms which convert sunlight into food by photosynthesis. Algae may be single or multicellular organisms (seaweed is a kind of algae) or grows as a biofilm in a protein matrix with microbes. There are different kinds of algae, but its growth is a symptom of something out of balance in the aquarium. Generally, high nutrients due to poor maintenance, or overpopulation, or inconsistent sizing of filtering or lighting cause their population to boom. Depending on the type of something, it can be challenging to control. The problem must be identified and managed from its onset through periodic maintenance and mechanical removal; in severe cases, chemical treatment can be applied.

The complete list

Many hobbyist aquariums have Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank to keep their tanks healthy, with no overpopulation of algae on the walls and equipment inside the aquarium. Most people generally don’t know about what algae-eaters are associating it with a few prevalent algae. Instead, “algae eaters” should be taken to understand a rather large group of fish and invertebrates who have their own specific needs for your tank species. The algae-eating group is small with its particular dietary demands. Find out how the best freshwater Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank work to clean our aquariums.

Best Algae Eating Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

We have a wide variety of algae-eating shrimp species, some more selective than others in terms of algae type for eating. Freshwater shrimp are also a favorite food for much freshwater fish. Red cherry shrimps are known as shrimp species that consume the most different types of algae. The only downside is that they are very tiny and easily preyed upon by other animals – keeping them in your tank can be difficult. If the shrimp do not have enough hiding places, it’s probably not going to last long in an open environment.

The best algae-eating snails

Best Algae Eaters

Snails are not the best algae eater available in the fishkeeping hobby, but they are a good choice. You can also use some snails to manage algae explosions. In the last few years, demand has increased for freshwater snails as humans have become more open about keeping snails as pets.

Hillstream Loach

Best Algae Eaters

Hillstream loaches (of the genus Sewellia) are a very different-looking algae suckling organism in aquariums. The body of a hillstream loach is surprisingly flat, which gives it a like alien appearance; they also look like stingrays. This helps the fish stay attached to rock and wood even where there are high flows of water. Wild animals fed in flowing, rapid waters in tropical rain forests, which are full of oxygen. In-home aquaria water flow typically tends to be much lesser than in the biotope. A good vegetal-based diet is crucial for good health; supplement the feed with spinach leaf and other vegetables. They will eat every piece of green algae in the tank.

Reticulated Hillstream Loach

Best Algae Eaters

It reaches 3 inches across and looks like a miniature stingray encrusted with contrasting shades of gold and a black outline. Use their powerful gripping abilities to eat algae and quickly clean large, flat surfaces like vertical aquarium walls, rocks, and plant leaves. Think of them as your window cleaner for diatoms and other flat types of algae. Many hillstream and river loaches varieties, including Sewellia lineolata, Beaufortia kweichowensis, and Gastromyzon cyntha. Keep it in warmer water with stable pH and high-quality water. Feast it with high-quality plant-based sinking food.

Mystery Snail

Best Algae Eaters

Mystery apple snail (Pomacea brigesii) is one under-explored algae eater. While it is dark at night, the snails seem to do nothing but eat the algae from vegetation and even glass. Mystery snails reach slightly more than 2 inches thick and provide a perfect algae eater for tanks where shrimps end eaten up by other inhabitants. Offer your snails a good food source like algae wafers – this can also help them maintain good health. A giant mystery snail is essentially kept alone in most aquariums.

Otocinclus

Best Algae Eaters

Otocinclus catfish or Otos are peaceful fish and make a suitable mate in a tank that holds other tropical fish. Otos are timid fish and should be kept in groups to reduce stress. When selecting one for a tank, ask whether the Otos exhibited are wild-caught or captive-bred. They are great algae eaters for freshwater, really enjoying eating green spot algae. Otos that survived in a shop or at a home aquarium for two weeks or more have more chance of survival. The availability of captive-bred fish is critical to preserving wild populations. In the case of Otocinclus catfish – trapping the animals in the wild often results in fish that die within days of being captured due to stress. One of the Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank.

Molly Fish

Best Algae Eaters

Mollies are popular livebearers from the Poecilia genus that live in whole fresh to full saltwater in the tropics. Different Mollies can range in size from the 2-inch (5 cm) in Balloon Molly to the nearly 6-in (15 cm) in Sailfin Molly. Fish are often raised and reared in brackish water aquariums. If you spot a health problem in your newly purchased fish, he could consider adding extra calcium to help him alive. The aquarium hobby selectively breeds them into various colors, patterns, tintypes, and body shapes.

Common Pleco

Best Algae Eaters

The common pleco (Hypostomus plecostomus), which many call the quintessential algae eater, is commonly found in aquariums. It’s best to avoid common plecos unless you plan on having a giant aquarium. They’re lined in armor with small eyes, and they’re kind of like dinosaurs. If you have room, a common pleco provides an excellent source for eating the algae. They are also very opportunistic and will eat tiny fish and shrimp.

Siamese algae eater

Best Algae Eaters

The Siamese Algae Eater is one of the few fish that eat black beard algae and hair algae. The main downside of this fish is spotting the real deal as they were often mislabeled and mischaracterized at fish shops. They can be confused with other species of algae-eating fish, such as the Chinese Algae Eater, False Siamese Algae Eater, and the Flying Fox Algae Eater.

Nerite Snails

Best Algae Eaters

Nerite snails eat both algae and scavenging. They are notably handy for removing tough greenish-colored algae and others found on trees and decorations. Like all other types of aquarium snails, Nerite Snails puts white, seed-like eggs that will not hatch in freshwater unless there is an out-of-control population boom. Just don’t forget to offer additional calcium in the water and in their diet (using nano food blocks) to help with the health of the shell. There are many beautiful colors to choose from.

Florida Flagfish

Best Algae Eaters

Jordanella floridae is also known as American flagfish from its red stripes and symmetrical shoulder patches. The female resembles the US flag from its tail. This 2.5-inch (6 cm) voracious algae eater has the perfect mouth for cutting out hair algae, black beard algae, and other fuzzy algae. Flagfish may grow in calmer waters without aquarium heaters. This killifish might be the best for algae eaters for freshwater.

Bristlenose Catfish

Best Algae Eaters

Bristlenose pleco is an incredible algae eater in a freshwater aquarium and can easily clean away algae from glass decorations and driftwood. They receive this name because their foreheads are covered with fleshy branches or tentacles. They can grow six inches in length, although a significant number stays around four inches. They’ll soon outgrow many tanks; because of that, bristlenose plecos will need larger tanks when they reach full size. Juvenile bristlenose pleco is the perfect algae eater as they do not require too much space.

Amano Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Caridina multidentata is a clear-brown dwarf shrimp. These are animals that rarely eat black beard algae. Since they are small, you must buy at least four or more to cause a significant response in the algae growth. Amano shrimp will readily breed in your aquarium, but baby shrimp need to be kept in saltwater. For a detailed description of their protection requirements, read the complete species profile on this site.

Cherry Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) is a freshwater shrimp. This shrimp type is available in a wide range of colors. Cherry shrimp are excellent Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank. A large group of them could quickly clean small tanks. The hardiest part for keeping this shrimp is picking suited tank mates because many fish view them as food items.

Rosy Barb

Best Algae Eaters

The rosy barb (Pethia conchonius) eats fuzzy hair, algae-like staghorn, and thread algae. This relatively peaceful fish measures 7 cm long and is available in others varieties, like long-fin and albino. As a schooling fish, it is best when kept in a group of at least four individuals.

Ghost Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Ghost Shrimp are not as efficient as Cherry or Amano shrimp, but they enjoy eating hair-like algae in reasonable amounts. They are tiny, generally growing to only one inch in length, and bigger fish will eat them. Ghost shrimp are often sold as live fish food. If you want to keep ghost shrimp, you will need to have a place there to hide out from predators. It can be found easily where the Ghost Shrimp get that name, with their almost transparent bodies.

Bamboo Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Bamboo shrimp can be found in tropical Southeast Asia and enjoy flowing water in their aquariums. They probably eat fewer algae than Cherry or Amano shrimp, but still, Bamboo shrimp have many potentials as algae eaters.

Cardinal Sulawesi Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Cardinal Sulawesi Shrimp (Caridina dennerli) is going global in its popularity. At 3/8″-1.5′′ maximum, this species has a small size, and the colors are much vivid than the famous Red Cherry Shrimp. They live longer than most freshwater shrimp and reach the ripe old age of two years when they are kept in fine-filtered still water with enough soft aquatic leaves to eat. They also feed on algal and microbial biofilm present in any healthy tank ecosystem means they don’t require additional food for survival. They prefer warm temperatures from 78 to 88 degrees with hard pH, about 8.

False Siamese Algae Eater

Best Algae Eaters

False Siamese algae eaters require tanks of no larger than 30 gallons and prefer a pH within the range of 6.5 and 7.0, with temperatures between 75 and 79°F. It works best for those living in a small community tank where the fish have many algae to eat. It is not a bad thing for them to be given algae tablets and food supplements. These species are also quite peaceful and relatively easy to maintain, so they could be a good choice for novice aquarium hobbyists to help control algae in a new tank.

Chinese algae eater

Best Algae Eaters

Chinese algae eaters are easily maintained and operate well in tanks of 30 Gallon sizes. This animal can grow quite large – up to 10 inches, and they tend to become aggressive as it grows. It would help if you also made a place for animals to hide behind a rock cave or hollow logs. They prefer warm water temperatures, and they require a herbivorous diet. They are Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank and can be kept close by large and semi-aggressive species like cichlids. It can be a lazy eater as it grows, but they feed on different algae kids as young.

Garra (Doctor Fish)

Best Algae Eaters

These freshwater algae-eating fish are very hardy and are seen in lakes, ponds, and streams in all Middle East regions. Although garra’s cleaning of algae full aquariums is excellent, they need always to get a healthy balanced diet. Additional consumption of bloodworms or algae wafers is sure to keep your Garra healthy and happy. Garra prefers to be held in groups; 4 is the absolute minimum of individuals, so the more, the merrier! Garra is also known as the doctor fish in a spa treatment for Central and Eastern Asia. All the while, they’ll gladly take up all the loose cellular matter, including dirt and dust from your skin.

Rabbit Snail

Best Algae Eaters

The rabbit snail (Tylomelania spp.) is one of the best algae eateries around. Its shell shape resembles a corkscrew, capable of growing from up to 4 inches, and their active, curious nature makes them fascinating to observe. All colors of algae can be eaten, and also decayed plant waste. Diversify its diet by offering vegetables and herbivorous fish food.

Guppies

Best Algae Eaters

Guppies are one of the most popular fish in the aquarium hobby. Most Guppy owners never think they are algae eaters once they are acquired. Guppy keepers groups who don’t want their aquarium to turn into infinite hospital maternity. Aquarists often will buy only one female fish or only males. Guppy fish are also prolific breeders and are sometimes bought only as a matter of interest for the looks and temperament of their young rather than for the benefit of other fish.

Ramshorn Snail

Best Algae Eaters

The Ramshorn snails work very well at cleaning out unseen food debris and dead leaves before they can decompose. They have been safely kept with live vegetation without eating them. A small number can breed on the out-of-control scale until becoming a pest. Occasionally, you are forced to bait them with white lettuce to cut down their numbers unless you don’t mind swarms of these tiny snails nibbling on your plants. The snails suffer a terrible reputation because aquarium owners find them eating plant leaves. In reality, they only touch pieces of foliage that have fallen off the plant unless they are in an uncontrolled population explosion.

Sailfin Pleco

Best Algae Eaters

Sailfin Plecos (Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps) are one the best algae-eating fish there are. When young, these creatures are usually fed on algae and fish food. As adults, they need up to 75 gallons of clear surface. While not aggressive or territorial, these large plecos do better with equally large tankmates such as Oscars and Severums. As adults, they are also quite clumsy and will knock over plants and disturb gravel as they please, but they are not aggressive. They need algae wafers, vegetables, and tablets to take their nutrients.

Which algae eater would you choose?

There isn’t a one size fits all algae eater. The choice of species is mainly dependent on the type of fish you keep, the tank, the size, the algae that are being eliminated, and many other factors. For any peaceful community tank, there is an excellent range for Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank. However, if you like bigger, aggressive fish, you might be limited, but you still have options. Do you know what species of tank you need? What other type of animal would you keep in an aquarium? We want to learn your story. Tell us in the comment.

Now it’s time to pick your favorite!

I guess there’s something special about it when I watch these animals. Their efforts are kept focussed every time to track down algae consistently. They will wait it out till it gets algae, then they’re going straight back into work. If you have questions about other algae-eating fish or like to learn more about the species we selected, don’t hesitate to contact us via social media. We enjoy speaking to other aquarists and learning about them.

Final thoughts on algae eaters for small tanks

Different kinds of algae usually point to other disfunction of an aquarium’s ecosystem. Some algae, such as red algae, have some toxic qualities, but they are generally considered harmless. Fish, shrimp, and snails could remove algae. Some solutions may be simple. They only require minor adjustments. Sometimes, algae problems can be multi-layered. A tank owner has to experiment with several solutions before the problem can be solved.

Conclusion

In addition to the fish mentioned here, there are still many other aquatic animals that feed on algae. Numerous fish will catch algae; however, they tend to be significantly less efficient than the fish and invertebrates described above. Fortunately, some of the animals in this list can be relatively easily be found in your LFS. If you were thinking about adding Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank, hopefully, this section provided information that would help you choose the right fish.

Ultimate Rubber Lip Pleco Care Guide [Size, Diet, Breeding]

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Rubber Lip Pleco

Rubber Lip Pleco Care Guide & Species Profile

The following article will help you decide if the Rubber Lip Pleco is the right aquarium fish for you. You will learn about its breeding habits, diet needs, personality and tankmate compatibility with other tank mates, and more.

This information is incredibly valuable when planning to care for Rubber Lip Plecos and makes for an informative read. I will highlight the key aspects of caring for Chaetostoma sp., commonly known as Rubber Lip Plecos. This species is often confused with bristle nose plecos. However, there are distinct differences in their care requirements.

Rubber-lipped Pleco: Care and species guide for beginners.

Rubber Lipped Plecos are a pleco species that can feed on algae and also on tiny larvae. They reach the size of up to 4.7″.

Adult individuals maintain their habit of eating algae, being an excellent addition to the cleaning crew. They are fish with omnivorous eating habits; they will eat algae and small live or frozen food.

They may have some difficulty in accepting processed foods.

A short introduction to the Rubber Lipped Pleco

Chaetostoma is part of the most extensive catfish family (Loricariidae). This fish’s other common names include Black Spotted Bulldog Pleco, Spotted Rubbernose Pleco, or simply L445.

These fish have enlarged gills that are believed to work together to breathe as they rest or feed. Similarly, the Rubber Lip Pleco are frequent algae eaters under some circumstances. It is a freshwater, bottom-dweller fish of the genus Chaetostoma.Rubber Lip Pleco

Rubber-lipped Pleco: Ultimate Species Care Guide.

Small catfish, including rubber-lipped plecos, can be an excellent addition to a tropical freshwater aquarium. They are not very resistant to pollutants in the water and require high levels of O². The aquarium must be well matured; this species is not recommended for beginner aquarists.

Habitat and origins

The Rubber-Lipped pleco is found in the Apuré River and Magdalena Basin in South America. The Rubber Lip Plecos are found in several other South American rivers.

The water in certain parts of its surface drop in temperature, which can sometimes be considered a kind of milder water, somewhere around 68º F. The species is found in Venezuela, Colombia, Brazil, and the United States, where it would probably be an invasive species.

The species were found across the northern region of South America.

Habitat and tank conditions

The Rubber Lip Pleco needs specific requirements, like fast-flowing waters and large tank size; they do not thrive in any home aquarium and require some attention.

They also provide excellent tankmates for fish from fast-flowing waters, like pike cichlid and silver dollars.

Indeed a relatively easy species to find in specialized stores. A challenging pleco for more experienced aquarists, who like fast and transparent water aquaria.

Rubber Lip Pleco Diet & Food

Rubber Lip Pleco feeding

In the natural habitat, Rubber Lip Pleco‘s diet includes all types of things. They will accept and delight in fresh or live food of animal and plant origin, as well as algae and biofilm.

They can be somewhat selective in eating, presenting a particular difficulty to start accepting industrialized feeds. Offer everything the animal needs; that way, you will have a less stressed and healthier animal.

Some of our favorite vegetable options for this fish are algae powder, leafy greens, cucumbers, and peas.

Rubber lip Pleco Care

Rubber Lip Plecos care is not particularly challenging as it seems, and some aquarists may realize it soon enough.

These fish are very hardy (within their specifics) because of the varying habitat they come from. It’s always a good idea to understand the ideal conditions so you can give the most outstanding care possible. Good owners strive for perfection!

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a rubber lip pleco?

The Rubber-Lipped pleco is a bottom-dweller fish and part of the genus Chaetostoma. Plecos are a common addition to all modern home aquarium systems for helping clean the tank’s surface from algae.

Bulldog plecos have extended gills that have evolved to allow the fish to breathe while feeding or are attached to rocks.

The Rubber Lip Pleco can’t grow as big as the Common pleco and can be an excellent choice to keep it; small-sized plecos do not require giant aquariums.

How do I care for my rubber-lipped pleco?

Care for the rubber-lipped pleco is no longer difficult; after all, when we have a designed system to keep it alive and healthy, it is a rewarding and relatively simple experience. Here are their ideal conditions to keep them busy and healthy.

Is rubber lip pleco suitable for an aquarium?

Rubber Lip Pleco cleaning algae off glassRubber Lip Plecos are an excellent choice for more experienced aquarists; they need well-matured aquariums, water with medium hardness, milder temperatures, and a strong water flow.

Despite their incredibly long and impressive life spans, this can be a daunting task when you first introduce them to an aquarium.

The most important consideration should be the seriousness of your fish care.

Try to keep them away from other large bottom species if possible; this way, the pleco remains calmer, in addition to not having to share hiding places or feeding spots.

If you love freshwater aquarium plants, it might give the tank life too; choose species that adapt to the water parameters required for the fish.

Rubber lips pleco is a species with a long lifespan that can reach 12 years if kept in ideal conditions. A breeding pair can become aggressive towards other plecos during breed season.

Plecos do not eat fish poop; that’s a myth. They are a capable algae eater and easily clean an algae-infested aquarium.

Tank Mates

There is a wide range of freshwater fish who are happy to coexist with these plecos. Here’s a listing of fish living in a tank with a Rubber Lip Pleco, along with helpful information about each species. Bala sharks are peaceful, although they develop an appetite for small fish as they age.

Cory catfish are also bottom-feeder scavengers who are great at cleaning and maintaining the aquarium. Gouramis are wonderful aquarium companions because they enjoy being joined up with slow-moving fish. Plecos prefer to keep it quiet and don’t enjoy bullying. Aggressive Cichlids and Tiger Barbs can’t be tolerated.

Take care

Rubber Lip Plecos are, in general, good fish to keep. They are not particularly vulnerable to sickness, and as long as the tank is clean, you will not be faced with problems.

The periodic water change is also crucial as your tank should maintain a healthy balance to avoid diseases and intoxications. Scaleless fish are sensitive to salt in the water; thus, be careful when adding salt to treatment problems.

Go for soft, smooth pebbles or sand over gravel and sharp sand for protection of fish. Keep plastic plants at a minimum and try to keep as many live plants as possible.

Appearance

The Rubber Lipped Pleco has an iconic ”pleco” look. Their head is almost identical to those we usually expect with their pleco form.

They have an enormous mouth with a snout that descends to the top of the skull. Their eyes are situated at the top of the head. They present a slightly elevated posture.

This eye positioning allows them to watch for predators while scavenging the substrate. In addition, they also have dark circles covering their body.

Behavior & compatibility

Rubber Lipped plecos don’t like the aggressiveness of other tank mates. They all want to lie alone or sit peacefully in a cave or a hideout.

They also enjoy hiding under smooth-surfaced round rocks which resemble the bottom of a river. Rubber Lipped plecos will not bother other fish unless there are other plecos because they can be territorial.

These animals are usually nocturnal, and it’s easy for them to do little feed before the lighting goes out. They won’t be more active if anything stresses them up and are also shy in general. At night they feed on algae and biofilm.

Behavior & Temperament

Rubber Lip Pleco was peaceful and would not be any problem to other tank habitats. They are one of the most peaceful freshwater species we know of.

You’ll sometimes see them parking at one place or gradually working around a protected spot. In open areas, they use sucker lips to latch on to whatever surface they’re looking at.

It is fun to what when they are attached to aquarium glasses. You shouldn’t expect a regular swimming show, as they are shy fish. If you own a big fish with solid energy and good health, it is a good idea not to put it together with rubber-lipped plecos.

A common misconception about the Rubber Lip Plecos

Fish stores can confuse Rubber Lip Pleco with other types of plecos. What makes the differences between these species unique are their maximum density and color.

A true RL pleco will reach at least 4.5 inches in body length and not experience drastic color change. While sexually maturing, the rubber lining will shift from grey to gold color.

I hadn’t the chance to see mine turn gold like that. But it seems the fish decide when this happens and if and when. Both of these fish have similar care needs (except for tank size and flow).

Summary of species

This species can be found in the Magdalena River in Columbia and the Apure River in Venezuela and spread across the Amazon basin.

These species primarily eat algae in the wild and spends their time around the substrate since it feeds from the bottom.

This information is essential to know because it will affect their keeping in the tank. This species is relatively robust and can tolerate a decent range of water conditions in the wild.

It is also known as the rubber nose pleco, and the rubber lipped pleco is also found in smaller rivers and waters bodies and larger rivers.

Diet

Rubber Lip Plco is not too fussy eaters. They will eat almost everything that is in the water. Feeding plecos a rich and varied diet with algae, vegetables, and animal protein is essential.

You can place zucchini, peas, green beans, and spinach in the tank for your fish to chew to ensure a healthy, balanced diet. You may also occasionally offer bloodworms, tubifex, nauplii, and earthworms. Remember that the more you feed it, the more poo it will produce. Slowly try to introduce foods like algae wafers to its diet.

Going forward

These are intriguing creatures that are good enough for the proper aquatic enthusiast. If you’re searching for a unique and easy to care fish, which are not particularly popular, this could be for you.

We are dedicated to writing the best fish care guide online. We have always enjoyed the rubber nose pleco and the performance regardless of what it does.

Breeding

There are no verified reports of successfully breeding rubber lips plecos. The breeding process can be laborious for this fish, whether it’s successful or not.

It best not to try breeding this fish without being confident in the results. We would love to hear from someone who successfully bred this species, as we do wish to feature their tips in this guide.

Very rarely is breeding observed in captive conditions. Usually, a male attaches itself upside out to a flat spot beneath the surface below where the eggs hatch. This way, he can guard the fry against predators.

Mistaken identity

The Rubber Lip Pleco is sometimes confused with Rubber Pleco, Parancistrus aurantiacus. The Rubber pleco is spotless in its nose.

Juveniles can be mistaken; notice if your fish grows slowly until finally, it reaches the proper shape around five inches; around that size, the differences are evident, as the rubber lipped has black dots across the body.

The rubber pleco can transform its grayish color over its aging growth to a length extending up to 7 or 8 inches. On rare occasions, both species of fish are advertised incorrectly.

Life span

The average life span of a rubber-lipped pleco is between 10-12 years with reasonable maintenance. These assumptions assume you have provided them the ideal habitat and a good diet.

High-stress levels can have a detrimental outcome on the longevity of fish. If you pair them with the wrong tankmate, they might feel stressed and become sick or even die.

Tank setup and habitat requirements

If you have basic knowledge of this species, you can easily set up a tank for your pleco. Depending on your current setup, you may not have to make corrections before adding RL to your community tank.

Where can I buy this rare fish?

After some feedback on the site, I realized not everyone was lucky enough to find the Rubber-Lipped pleco at their fishing shop. But you can always buy it online, from reliable fish stores.

If you’re not able to find this pleco in the country you live in, you can also order them online. One place where I have discovered Rubber Lip Plecos is AquaBid, but there are other online markets that you might try.

Visit the link and read the retailers specializing in selling live freshwater fish to increase your chances of finding a live fish.

Common disease

The RL pleco, like many other plecos, is exceptionally resilient. They are susceptible to toxins and contaminants in water.

Plecos do not quickly become sick but are sensitive to specific health problems. When you notice that the white spots don’t multiply after one day, it probably wasn’t ich; if it persists, you fish possibly is a victim of ich. This ailment is often easy to diagnose and also treat.

Final thoughts

Rubber Lip Pleco does not grow as some other pleco species, making it a good choice for the home aquarium.

However, it would help not keep this animal in a tank size of fewer than 25 gallons since they need large amounts of space and water flowing. The Rubber Lip is a peaceful and magnificent algae eater in your tropical aquarium.

The 7 Best Dwarf Cichlids for Your Aquarium [complete guide]

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The 7 Best Dwarf Cichlids for Your Aquarium [complete guide]

Dwarf cichlids have big character for such tiny fish. They do well in a tropical community tank. While some species do well alone, others do best in trios or couples.

Family of (5) Live Cichlids 1-2″ Live Tropical Fish Assorted South American Cichlids
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Cichlids are a group of fish that fish enthusiasts misunderstand as aggressive and territorial. This idea is why some hobbyists often do not prefer them. Cichlids are also blamed for digging up gravel and plants. Because of this, they are not as fashionable as their other fish counterparts.

Fortunately, the Dwarf Cichlids are quite different from their larger Cichlid cousins. These fish species are much less aggressive and will live harmoniously with other fish species in the same aquarium.

Another great attribute of the Dwarf Cichlids is that they do not need much care, so long as you keep them in larger aquariums. Dwarves add interest to the aquarium with their colors and character, giving hobbyists great satisfaction. Keeping and breeding the fish is an easy task.

Types of Dwarf Cichlids

There are two main kinds of Dwarf Cichlids: the African Dwarf Cichlids and the South American Dwarf Cichlids. It must be noted that these two species of fish usually require different water parameters. The African Dwarf Cichlid are generally good community fish. However, the South American Dwarf Cichlids prefer to be alone in their environment.

There are more than 90 different species of Dwarf Cichlids! In this article we have selected six of the best South American Dwarf Cichlids and one from Africa that we think are a definitely worth considering for your aquarium.

The 7 Best Dwarf Cichlids for Your Aquarium- Butterfly Cichlid

Dwarf Cichlid Color Varieties

Some of the most popular South American Dwarf Cichlids kept by hobbyists include Blue Rams, Bolivian Rams and various species of Apistogramma. Whist some species are thought to be challenging to keep, captive bred Cichlid strains are becoming more available and are well suited to aquarium life. New and appealing color morphs continue to be established by breeders.

Captive bred Cichlids have quite diverse characteristics even within the same species, featuring innumerable colors and patterns. Male Cichlids will generally have quite different color variations to females.

Cockatoos with their long striking orange and black fins and Blue Rams with blue hues and unique patterns- these will liven up your tank. Then there are the Dwarves that have gentle colors and patterns that will blend into the landscape.

Dwarf Cichlids

How Long Do Dwarf Cichlids Live?

Although the lifespan of Dwarf Cichlids can vary slightly between species, the typical life prospect of most is up to five years. However, many fish keepers report their cichlids live longer than that, with some fish living ten or more years if given optimal care and a high-quality diet.

What Do They Eat?

Feed your cichlid flakes or pelleted food. They are omnivores and thrive on a nutritious balanced fish food such as Aqueon Tropical Flakes, Shrimp pellets and foods specifically formulated for Cichlids.

Time how much food your fish eats in 3 minutes, then and feed them that quantity twice daily. Offer frozen or freeze-dried brine shrimp or bloodworms as treats.

Wild caught Cichlids can be fussy eaters and may require live foods to begin with, but eventually they will accept frozen and dry foods.

Nannacaraanomala (Golden Dwarf Cichlid)

Dwarf Cichlids

Golden Dwarf Cichlids are lovely little fish with a golden and blue colors. Their hardiness and suitability for a peaceful community tank make them an ideal choice. They should be housed in tanks of at least 20 gallons.

The male is easy to tell from the female. He will be larger with brighter colors.

Captive bred Golden Dwarf will accept just about any tropical fish food. It is important that they are given a rich nutritionally balanced food. They enjoy frozen food and freeze-dried foods too.

The Golden Dwarf Cichlid has been bred in captivity for many years. Due to them being well acclimatized to captive breeding, they are a fish that breeds readily for hobbyists.

They prefer slightly acidic water and a slightly higher temperature (than usual) when breeding. The female does become aggressive when she lays her eggs, chasing off other fish including the male Dwarf Cichlids. If in a small tank, the male should be removed.

Ensure the tank has places for the female to lay her eggs, such as caves. The eggs hatch after a few days and can be fed on newly hatched brine shrimp.

 

Egyptian Mouthbrooder (Pseudocrenilabrus multicolor)

Dwarf Cichlids

This species has been bred in captivity for over a century. They are very hardy fish and a great dwarf cichlid for beginners.

Egyptian Mouthbrooder Dwarf Cichlids accept most foods. A quality cichlid pellet/flake can be fed as staple. They also require variety, so the inclusion of live and frozen foods will keep them at their best.

This species can be aggressive towards other fish that live in the lower parts of the aquarium. If keeping them with other dwarf cichlids, catfish, and loaches, you’ll require a larger tank so they can all have territory.

In smaller aquariums, they do well with fish that inhabit the upper reaches of the tank; fish such as African tetras, hatchetfish, danios and barbs. Males are very aggressive towards each another and only one should be kept with one or more females.

Males are usually larger and more colorful than females.

The Egyptian Mouthbrooder Dwarf Cichlid is easy to breed. Being a mouth-brooder, it is enjoyable to watch them breed. Leading up to breeding feed your fish a high-quality diet of frozen and live foods. This gets them into prime breeding condition.

Ensure there are secluded areas in the aquarium for the fish to breed. When in condition, the male will dig-out a shallow pit in the gravel. He will then attempt to entice the females to spawn with him. He does this by displaying and sometimes forcefully ‘encouraging’ the females.

When willing, the female and male will tightly circle one another, and the eggs will be released. The female picks them up in her mouth. She will hold 5-100 eggs in her buccal cavity.

After ten days the brood will hatch. The free swimming fry are released by the female and can be fed on newly hatched brine shrimp, microworm and powdered dried foods.

Neolamprologus multifasciatus

Dwarf Cichlids

These attractive small fish have an enormously interesting trait; they tend to establish small territories (6” across) around large snail shells that they will defend vigorously. They will even nip fingers that get too close!

This smallest of the dwarfs, is a highly recommended species because they will entertain you with their unique territorial behaviors.

They require at least a 10 gallon (40 L) tank is needed for a colony. In their natural environment they seek out large open areas of sandy substrate where there are numerous empty shells. By replicating this, the colony will happily set up their territory in amongst these shells. The fish will landscape the area, so ensure the substrate is deep enough.

They generally accept dried foods, however, live and frozen foods will ensure they thrive and it brings them into breeding condition.

Due to their territorial aggressive manner, it is best to house a colony of these cichlids with fish that like to inhabit other areas in the aquarium.

To maintain cohesion with the colony, make sure you provide more shells than fish and keep many more females than males. Males and females look similar. Males will have a more intense color and a reddish tint to the top part of the dorsal fin.

Breeding these little fish is easy. They may breed in the community tank, but it will be more successful in a separate tank. Make sure there are plenty of shells, as the female will lay her eggs in these. They like a hard and alkaline water with a high pH of 8 to 8.5. The temperature should be 77-80°F.

Keep several females per male and space the shells out to reduce territorial aggression between the males.
Females will display in front of their shells to gain the attention of males. The female will lay her eggs in the shell, which will then be fertilized by the male.

After spawning the male plays no further role and the female will see him off. The eggs hatch after a day and become free swimming fry within a week. As the fry grow they will venture further away from the shell and eventually being chased off by the female.

Feed fry on newly hatched brine shrimp or microworm.

A colony of Neolamprologus Multifasciatus is a must for hobbyists interested in this little fish’s unusual habits.

Cockatoo Dwarf (Apistogramma cacatuoides)

Dwarf Cichlids

Being one of the most popular of the dwarf cichlids, Apistogramma Cacatuoides  are a perfect starter cichlid for beginners. They may be small in stature, but by no means small in personality. These species gets its name from their stunning cockatoo-crest-like dorsal fins.

Hobbyists have been breeding Cockatoo Dwarfs for many years and have been able to fix several different color variants.

Male and female fish are quite different in looks. The males develops an enlarged head once sexually mature. This seems to continue to enlarge throughout its life. They have huge mouths that they gape to threaten other males in their territory.

A very hardy fish that can take most water types. Heaters are even optional so long as the room doesn’t get overly cold (not below 60°F). This is not the case with their Cichlid cousins, that prefer warmer water.

Cockatoo dwarfs dwell at the bottom of aquariums. Having a longer aquarium with lots of floor area with 20+ gallons of water would suit best.

Cockatoo Dwarfs are not very picky when it comes to foods. Feed live food daily and supplement with flakes, pellet food, freeze-dried and frozen food.

To bring them into breeding condition, feed live food such as blackworm and brine shrimp.

Cockatoos are cave spawners. Ensure there are many caves in the aquarium, at least one for each female. Openings should face away from one another providing privacy.

The males will battle it out for dominance. Only the dominant males will get to breed. The dominant male will be the brightest colored of the colony and he will be proudly dancing around out in the open to impress the girls! It is best to remove the sub-dominant males from the tank during breeding, unless there is plenty of space for them to hide.

Aggressive males have been known to kill rival males. Each male should have a harem of about four females.
After courting the female lays her eggs on the inner walls of her cave. The male will then fertilize them. The caves need to be large enough to accommodate the male.

When the eggs hatch the female takes charge and herds the fry around the tank foraging for food.

The Cockatoo Dwarf are an addictive starter cichlid. You’ll be hooked by their colors and intriguing behaviors as they go about their lives in a colony.

Apistos– Apistogramma Trifasciata 

Dwarf Cichlids

Apistogramma trifasciata (Apistos) are small, brightly colored striped fish with a quiet nature, making them very suitable for a community aquarium. The Three Striped Dwarf Cichlid is one of the most brightly colored of this species.

This cichlid is not considered a fish for beginners. A tank of at least 25 gallons is recommended to keep a colony of these fish. It needs to be well planted as the Apistos requires places to hide and to establish their colony.

They require well filtered not too hard (0-12 dH) water, with a temperature of between 71-86F and pH of 5-7. With these conditions, along with a quality diet, Apistos will live five to ten years.

With a preference to inhabit the bottom of the tank, these fish do best with fish that don’t share their lower tank space. Avoid aggressive fish species, as Apistos may become their targets. The best tank mates include: Cardinal Tetras, Otocinclus Catfish, Lemon Tetras, Neon Tetras, Pygmy Corydoras and Rasboras.

Apistos are easy to breed if all their conditions are met. They like the water warm with very little flow. Like most cichlids, these fish are very protective of their eggs and fry. The females defend their nests and the male the territory.

Success with breeding will increase when using a separate breeding tank as opposed to a community tank.

Either breed in pairs, or one male with several females. Two males will fight. The female will coax the male into the breeding area where she spawns, and he fertilizes the eggs.

Once hatched the fry will eat primarily algae.

Apistogramma trifasciata are omnivores and require a balanced diet of plant based foods and protein from live foods or freeze dried foods (brine shrimp, insect larva, worms, fish fry). The food needs to be able to sink to the bottom where they live.

With a little attention to water parameters, these intriguing quiet-natured cichlids make a great addition to the aquarium.

Rainbow Krib – Pelvicachromis Pulcher

Dwarf Cichlids

We selected the Rainbow Krib, or Kribensis, to be one of our best dwarf cichlids picks. This one is not a South American species, but rather from Africa, inhabiting the shallow weedy waters of Southern Nigeria and Cameroon.

The colors on these fish are enhanced during spawning. During breeding time the female sports a striking cherry-red colored belly. Even when not spawning they are attractive fish with many colors.

Rainbow Kribs do well in community tanks, however, their tank mates need to be carefully considered. Although generally peaceful, the Rainbow Krib may nip the fins of slow moving long finned tropical fish. Being bottom dwellers, it is best to house with fish that inhabit other areas of the tank, especially other species of cichlid.

Provide several caves in the tank for the fish to select as their own. The caves should have a single entry, be dark and stable. Half ceramic flower pots and coconut shells make great caves. Being territorial, these fish will compete with other fish seeking caves.

A well planted aquarium with some open spaces is ideal for them. They like to burrow and may uproot plants. Rainbow Kibs can tolerate a wide range of water conditions.

Rainbow Kribs are omnivorous and will happily eat flake or pellet food. Supplement their diet with live or freeze dried foods of shrimp, brine shrimp, daphnia, mosquito lava and bloodworms.

Females are smaller than males and develop the bright red spot on their stomachs when in breeding condition. Males are longer and thinner and less colored.

If you decide to breed this species, it is best to do so with them in their own tank. Males become very aggressive whilst spawning and when caring for the fry. Offer several caves for breeding and make sure the substrate gravel is fine (under 3mm). Fry and eggs get lost in larger gravel.

Condition the pair of cichlids with a generous diet that includes live foods. The female will display her red-cherry abdomen when she is ready to spawn. She will embark on an enticing courtship display. She may become aggressive as well during this time.

The pair will dig the gravel beneath the cave when preparing to spawn. 200-300 eggs will be laid. The female will stay in the cave with eggs, then fry until the fry are free swimming. The male will defend the territory. When leaving the cave, the fry will stick to their parents closely.

Feed free swimming fry newly hatched brine shrimp and finely crumbled flake food. The parents (or may only be one parent as they may begin to fight) will remain with the fry for 2-4 weeks.

Maybe this hardy African dwarf cichlid is the one for you. Easy to keep and breed and fun to watch!

Yellow Dwarf – Apistogramma borellii

Dwarf Cichlids

 

Apistogramma borellii or Yellow Dwarf Cichlid (Umbrella Cichlid) enjoys a well-planted aquarium with good depths and plenty of caves. They are peaceful, hardy and are tolerant to a wide range of water conditions. The Yellow Dwarf are an ideal choice for beginners due to their peaceful nature, hardiness and easy mix within a community tank.

Males grow to around 3 inches, and females 2 inches. Being mostly carnivorous, they require a diet rich in live and freeze-dried foods.

These small fish are compatible with most non-aggressive fish. Great tank mates include barbs, danios, tetras, live bearers.

They can take a wide range of water conditions, however, to be ideal a temperature of 75 – 81F, a pH of 5.0 – 7.0 and a water harness of between 1 – 10 dGH.

The female is more colorful than the male, yet the finnage of the male is somewhat more spectacular.

This species dwells near the bottom of the tank, requiring a substrate they can sift through and burrow into. Hobbyists will enjoy watching them excavating their territories using their mouths. The downside is they tend to dig up plants (use deep rooted plants and weighted stones and driftwood to hold them down). They like the shade of floating leaves and are used to tannins in creeks and rivers. So floating Indian Almond Leaves helps with providing a natural environment for them.

The Yellow Dwarf Cichlid is a harem species where several females live in a colony with one male. They make excellent parents to a brood of fry. The female will tend to the brood, whilst the male protects them and defends the territory.

During breeding the male becomes very territorial. 50-100 eggs will be laid in a line on flat shale, rocks or within the cave. The male will follow behind her and fertilize the eggs. The eggs hatch in about two days and the fry free swimming in about 5 days. Feed newly hatched brine shrimp.

The fry can be left with their mother for two to three weeks before being removed to their own tank.

Turn down water pumps to reduce water flow in the tank during breeding.

When buying your first Yellow Dwarf Cichlids by a group of about six. It is unlikely you’ll be able to sex young fish. They will sort themselves out over time.

Live Cichlids For Sale Comparison Table

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Appropriate Feeding for South American Cichlids

In nature, South American Cichlids have a preference for insect larvae, small worms and other invertebrates. In aquariums they readily accept commercial flake or pellet food. It is important to offer them live or freeze-dried high protein foods, especially leading up to breeding time. South American cichlids are mostly carnivores. Check individual species for their dietary requirements.

Correct Maintenance for South American Cichlids

South American Dwarf cichlids are quite resilient and can live within wide water parameters. Periodic partial water changes are an important component of maintenance, as well as cleaning of the substrate and filters. With efficient biological filters and an aquarium that is not over stoked, water changes are not as important.

Many cichlids come from ‘backwater’ creeks and drains and live in amongst decaying leaves and weeds. The water can be quite acidic containing tannin. Keeping this in mind, it may be a good idea that these fish have access to plant material both living and dead. Dead leaves (of sea almond, beech oak or walnut), Alder cones, Indian Almond or peat. With some species, this will entice fish to breed.

Ornaments

Oak leaves that sit on the bottom of the tank are great since they remain stiff while wet. Dwarf cichlids love to swim through the labyrinth of leaves and to live in leafy habitats. You need plenty of rockwork, caves, passages, flower pots, coconut shells, driftwood and/or other ornaments.

Substrate

Some species of Dwarf cichlids live in environments where the substrates are mostly mud or sand. Many species enjoy sifting through sand to find food or to excavate their ‘dens’. Having a layer of gravel an inch or more deep will provide plenty of substrate for digging. If breeding cichlids, it is better to have a small diameter substrate (less than 3mm) as fry and eggs can be lost in the amongst the gravel. Certain species of cichlid prefer dark gravel, and others light.

Plants

Dwarf cichlids do not eat or damage aquatic plants, so you can use pretty much any species of plant that tolerate water levels. Some Dwarf cichlids will uproot plants when digging. Use plants with good roots and pin them down with stones.  Floating plants replicate the wild, providing shade and shelter from predator fish. These may be a good addition.

Final Thoughts

There are plenty of Dwarf cichlids that are suitable for a peaceful community aquarium. Always do your research and parry up your new cichlids with other aquatic creatures that enjoy the same water parameters as them. If you introduce Dwarf Cichlids to your aquarium it is certain that you’ll be entertained and the decision won’t be regrettable, in fact it is highly likely that you become addicted to this quirky species!

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The Complete Guide to Peacock Gudgeon Care

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Peacock Gudgeon

Aquarium maintenance with peacock gudgeons (Teurndina ocellicauda) is relatively easy. Just like with any other fish species, you need to know what your fish loves to eat, its preferred tankmates, how they reproduce, and the proper water parameters. This article explains how to provide proper care for peacocks. It is worth noting that, although some refer to this fish as a type ofGoby, it is not a true Goby as it does not feature fused pectoral fins.

Are Peacock Gudgeons suitable for aquariums?

 

The peacock gudgeon is a great choice for a novice in the fish-keeping hobby. It’s easy to maintain as long as you’re changing the water monthly and looking after the tank’s condition. The life expectancy for these fish is 4-5 years in captivity. They interact well with other species in their tank. Their behavior is peaceful, though territorial with members of the same species or brightly colored dwarf cichlids. The aquarium decoration should contain enough plants and refuges to hide, especially since they like to lay their eggs in caves. They are ideal to be keep in an aquarium planted with soft water and slightly acidic pH, in addition to little water flow. In aquariums with little or no decoration, they are quite shy. The aquarium must be covered well; they are excellent jumpers.

Peacock Gudgeon

Overview

The Peacock Gudgeon (scientific name:Tateurndina ocellicauda) originates from Papua New Guinea where it occurs in streams, lakes and rivers.It is also seen in Australia and New Zealand.

These fish are easy maintain and entertaining to watch. The hobbyist should be careful to provide high quality nutrition and water conditions, as with any aquaculture environment.

Origin & Appearance

The gudgeon peacock is a tropical fresh water species within the Eleotridae family of species. Members of this family are popularly known as gudgeons. The species is found in the east of Papua New Guinea. Peacock gudgeons are often known for their colors such as silver, pink, blue and yellow slits on their tail. It is one of the most beautiful freshwater fish with striking color varieties – hence their common name, “peacock”.They also are small with the males’ length reaching a three-inch limit on maturity, female being even smaller. Males are larger and more colorful and have a round head with a slight bulge. A large black spot along the fish’s ventricle fin is very similar to the black spot on their caudals.

Life span

Peacock gudgeons’ average life span is 4-5 years in captivity. Poor water conditions can shorten their lives significantly and cause a host of diseases. The key to keeping them healthy is to keep the tank properly running properly with periodic maintenance and quality food. Like all other fish, they are sensitive to extreme changes. However, the peacock gudgeon is often an especially resilient fish in a number of environments.

Are Peacock Gudgeons Right For You?

If you’re a starter who never owned a fish tank before, the peacock gudgeon is a very good start for you. It’s so easy to maintain, has lovely colors and is especially interesting to watch. Once you know what to do, you can gradually introduce new species into your aquarium. In the end, maintaining peacocks should be enjoyable if you have the right setup.

Temperament & General Behavior

Peacock gudgeons are quiet. They won’t pose problems with other nonaggressive creatures that are nearly as big. These fish are usually happiest with groups up to eight. However, a group needs a large aquarium, even though they are peaceful fish; aggression can still happen between males. They coexist peacefully with smaller fish as well. If your fish are comfortable with the environment, you can see them swimming in open areas to show off their pretty looks.

Care and Keeping in a Tank

A small tank of 40 liters (~10USgallons) could fit several fish. Peacock gudgeons feel secure around big number of floating plants; have a number of refuges for them in the tank. It is possible to make the foundation using medium grained sand up to 5mm or smaller gravel. Generally, the fish jumps easily, so be careful to avoid small gaps around container lid. It is recommended to carry out water renewal once per week.

Habitat and Tank Conditions

Peacock gudgeons don’t go as fast as, for example, the Bloodfin Tetra. They prefer a lush and colorful aquarium, since that reminds them of their natural habitat in waters and ponds in Oceania. Crystal clear, densely planted and medium flow waters are preferred. Anubias, Javafern, and waterwisteria are excellent choices for peacocks. They enjoy lying around plants whenever they’re threatened by an attack, and they often swim through tanks with these plants. Rocks and driftwood also keep them happy. You may see their hues becoming lighter when they are placed behind live plants. They like to rest on the substrate under foliage and decorations, so a part of the substrate should be kept free.

What to Include in Their Habitat

Peacock gudgeons are perfectly good fish to have when your aquarium is heavily enriched with aquatic life. When designing a tank, implement a large variety of hardy plants. The fish use the plants for hiding when they feel threatened. Sand is safer to fish than gravel and rocks. There is no specific filter requirement for the peacock gudgeon, just check that your chosen equipment is powerful enough to cycle your tank and keep the nitrates level low. The more plants you have, the happier your fish will be. A good filtering system is ideal to manage the large amount of excreta that these fish produce.

Plants and Decorations

Even in the wild, peacock gudgeons may often be found within areas that contain an abundance of plants. Java fern, Java Moss, Anubias and Water Wisteria plants would best suit your fish tank. Try to include as many real aquarium plants in an aquarium as possible. More plants means happier peacocks so long as there are no crowding the tank. Keep plants to be durable. On top of that you can add some rocks and driftwood to create some sort of cave for peacocks to build nests.

Lighting

Peacock gudgeons like dim lighting but you can put some light into your fish tank. You can also use a light adjusting lamp to adjust the light intensity depending on the time of day on the other sources of light in your home. It is interesting for the aquarist to play with the lighting and the type of setup with these fish. Providing undergrowth as well as strong lighting that which illuminates around 30% of the aquarium causes a very magical effect in the aquarium, and fish can seek out both light and darkness. Peacocks, when well acclimated and stress-free, have no aversion to bright light.

Substrate

The best substrate for peacock gudgeons is light sand – or a bare bottom. Very dark sand, like black sand, will influence the color of the fish.

How many Peacock Gudgeons can be kept?

A general rule of thumb requires a minimum amount of 15 gallons per gudgeon. For larger groups and multi-species communities, larger fish tanks might be needed. They are relatively small and don’t swim very much. It’s most to monitor behavior; monitor the fish in case of groups with more than one male in order to prevent aggression and stress.

Water parameters

It is good practice to test all physical and chemicalparameters occasionally to make sure they are stable, as these parameters can fluctuate without youknowing it if you do not monitor them. Here are the recommended levels for various water parameters: pH 6.5 to 7.5, hardness 5 to 10, T 22° to 28° C. The key to aquarium life is stability, especially in freshwater tanks, and it is important to keep the pH stable in your tank at a steady level.

Peacock Gudgeon Care

Peacock Gudgeon care is relatively easy compared to other fish. However,like any others, these fish need carefully engineered environments and stable water conditions for proper health.

Diet

In their natural environment, peacock gudgeons feed on small invertebrates, insects and insect larvae. They are omnivorous, and in an aquarium, they will readily accept dry and live food. Their colors are more striking when they are fedlive foods like daphnia, bloodworm shrimp, and brine shrimp.

Gender Differences: Male vs Female

Both males and females have black spots where their tail fin ends. Males are bigger and yellower, and their heads are bigger. Abdominal fins on fish are generally colorless, but during mating the females’ turn black and the males’ become brown with a bluish color. Sexual dimorphism is evident, males being larger and more colorful and having a round head with a slight bulge. In the breeding season, females have yellow on their abdomen. When young, females have a dark spot along the entire edge of their dorsal fins, while most males do not.

Difficulties in Keeping

The fish is not big, calm, not aggressive — in general it is almost perfect for those who love bright and small fish. The only drawback of the fish is that it is susceptible to infectious maladies.

Potential Diseases

Peacock Gudgeon has two conditions on his scalp. Ich is highly infectious and often affects peacock gudgeons. Anchor worms and fluke attacks can also cause problems with these fish. The most effective way to prevent your fish from acquiring these diseases is to maintain excellent water quality and not accidentally bringing diseases into their tank from other objects or species. Ich is easily treated by increasing the temperature and breaking the parasite’s cycle. Fluke and anchor worms can be treated with manual removal, constant substrate aspiration and salt baths.

[Ultimate] Black Ghost Knifefish Care Guide – All you need to know

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Black Ghost Knifefish

The Black Ghost KnifeFish, Apteronotus albifrons, is a very distinct fish from South America. Their electrosensory system, unusual color schemes, and the lack of a classic fish shape will attract everybody. Although this black ghost knife fish is a shy one, it gradually adapts to the aquarium and begins to turn showier. Can anyone buy this fantastic, weird fish and keep it? Continue reading to learn all about this notable species of freshwater aquarium fish. Article content includes this article and additional information about knife fish.

Black Ghost Knifefish Overview

Black Ghost Knife Fish (Apteronotus albifrons) is an exotic freshwater fish of the Apterolidae family originating from South America. This species is native of South America and lives in Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador, French Guiana, Guyana, Paraguay, Peru, Suriname, Uruguay, and Venezuela. They use their bottom fin for movement rather than contract and move their head and tail. They are easy to feed, enjoying being fed on insect larvae such as tubifex worms and blood worms. According to its electroreception ability, a fish that appreciates a giant aquarium can send out electrical pulses to monitor its surroundings, and this also shows places of prey and hidden places. If properly kept, this type of knife fish can live for up to 10 years and reach half a meter from head to tail.Black Ghost Knifefish

Black Ghost Knife fish Life span

The typical life expectancy of the Black Ghost knifefish is around eight years under proper keeping. These spans could, in some cases, reach as long as ten years. The most important factors that influence their lifespan are overall care quality (not only before you bought your fish but after) and the rate of feeding, water conditions, type of aquarium, tank size, and genetics.

Black Ghost Knifefish Size

Black Ghost Knifefish fish usually grows from 18 to 20 inches. Ignore all the nonsense “it will grow to the size of a tank” that is read around some online forums. These fish grow very big in any tank size. As they are not small fish, they need a large aquarium suitable for their size.

Should you keep Black Ghost Knifefish?

The Black Ghost Knifefish are among the most challenging fishes. Their long anal fins and their undulating movement on the surface of the water are something you never really forget. This fish is a good option for those with big tank sizes and who want to add a bit of variety. David keeps fish from a young age and has gathered and taken care of more than 30 different species.

Potential problems

Black Ghost Knifefish have an excellent sense of changes in the water. Scaleless fish show sensitivity to medications, particularly copper-containing products. Wild-caught specimens sometimes come with parasites that infect other species in your collections. This shy fish may not eat very well when first introduced in the aquarium, leading to problems such as malnutrition. The species is susceptible to fluctuations in water conditions, so it is paramount for tank operators to maintain a perfectly stable environment. Depending on your tank’s dimensions, you can add an excellent lighting system.

Black Ghost Knifefish Care Guide

Because their skin has no scales, they are susceptible to infection. It is especially prone to ich infections, external parasites, and white spots diseases. It would be best if you quarantined any incoming fish to your tank till it is healthy. It’s also good to give them quality food when you want to fight off a parasite, thus improving the animal’s immune system. The Black Ghost Knifefish would be happy to have a balanced diet and stable water parameters. For details about caring for fish, visit this guide.

Availability of knife fish

The Black Ghost Knifefish can be purchased online in good fish stores or through specialty dealer sites. Fish around 5 inches that you see on sale are usually a wild catch. Specimens for around $10 to $20 will vary according to the size of the species and its site of origin. The fish is now widely bred in Indonesia, and the pressure on wild populations has decreased dramatically. The larger specimens are likely large captive grown imports, but smaller specimens are likely a wild catch.

General Species Summary

Apteronotis albifrons is a tropical freshwater fish that is currently growing in popularity. They get their name from the evident physical relation of these animals to knives. The title ghost originated from a local belief that ghosts of the lost inhabit the bodies of these fish. The Black Ghost Knife fish are found in several South American regions. One interesting fact about the species is that most aquarists are probably unaware that they are electric. They cannot electrocute you or anything similar, so their electrical receptors help them locate the foods they need. As they hunt primarily at night, they can usually use that knowledge quite often.

Behavior & Temperament

Black ghost knife fish are relatively active fish that likes doing their things and leaving others alone. They are used to swimming and hide in caves looking for food. Their aggressive side will also be present if they’re in contact with other fish, they can appear highly territorial, attacking anyone who comes close to their territory. But it doesn’t mean we can’t take two or three more if we have more space. They can get highly aggressive whenever they are within proximity.

Habitat

Black Ghost inhabits raging sandy-bottomed rivers migrating in flooded forests during the wettest seasons. The fish’s natural environment is rather dark and has poor vision. The Black Ghost Knifefish has developed the characteristic ability to produce low voltage electricity, forming a built-in radar system. Similarly, this novel ability is used for hunting and communication with an animal. The nocturnal fish eats worms, crustaceans, fishes, larvae, and insects. The species prefers areas of solid vegetation with lots of hiding places for hiding in the dark.

Habitat and tank conditions

The Black Ghost Knifefish is present throughout the Amazon River and its tributaries. These waters are teeming with vegetation, with plenty of crannies hiding behind. The water temperature is tropical, 24 to 28º C, the pH can range from 5 to 8, but generally, slightly acidic is ideal, as is soft water. The substrate is typically sandy, with driftwoods and rocks. As they occur in a wide geographical area, it is necessary to know the origin of your fish. These tropical freshwater habitats are home to many insects providing fish food with enough larva. A Black Ghost Knife needs a habitat that resembles its natural environment as closely as possible. It’s simple to accomplish, and it’s detailed below.

Aquarium setup

Black Ghost KnifeFish reaches 20 inches in length. A large aquarium of a minimum of 100 gallons will be needed to store these fish. Use sand or fine gravel; they are the best substrates and most closely resemble the ghost knifefish natural habitat. Keep enough plants around the edges of the tank and also include driftwood and rocks. The fish will not eat the plants but prefer to crawl among the leaves a day, as they prefer to go to a deeper place at night. These fish live inside dark, muddy conditions and like moderate to low lighting in the aquarium. They can often be found in the bottom of the tanks.

Diet and nutrition

In their natural surroundings, the fish emerges from their hiding spots to search, hunt, and eat small fish and insect larvae after the sunsets. They feed on insects, larvae, worms, snails, insects, and smaller fish throughout the night. If you want, you can introduce feeder fish into Black Ghost’s diet once he has gained enough weight to take them. Once the black ghosts settle in their aquarium home, they feel comfortable and may venture out to feed during the day. These fascinating fish will often eat their food in your hands; in this case, you must keep your hands clean and free of chemicals and fragrances. You can gradually introduce commercial feeds, such as pellets and flakes.

Water parameters

Black knife ghost fish may become sensitive to less than ideal water conditions. They are not like other hardy fishes that can withstand low water quality. This means you have to do severe tests on the aquarium water if you own any black ghost knife fish. Often they can get sick, and chances of infection in the water tank are always high. The water parameters should be kept to the perfect levels possible with the species. If a fluctuation starts, you have to do something immediately. Low-quality kits can be a lot worse than no kits at all. Assure your notes about your level are accurate.

What to include in their tank

Black ghost knife fish will often stay in the lower portion of the tank, even during meals. Use soft sand or gravel for the fragile body type in this species. The plants are the most important, so always add some, no matter what the layouts. Keep safe by leaving any concealment areas or objects with a rough surface. Use solid rock, cave, and driftwood. You do not want the fish cut and may potentially cause an infection or sickness. The fish have no preference for hiding places. The typical aquarium plants are suitable.

Black Ghost Knife Fish Tank Mates & Compatibility

There are some compatible black ghost knife fish tankmates that you can contemplate. We see that this species likes to take on its own business. All types of calm fish can have your black Ghost as tank mates, as long as the fish are not too small. Some owners got away with smaller fish like Celestial pearl danios or Green Neon Tetras, but this pairing tends only to be viable while the knife fish is still on the small side.

Tank Mates

Black Ghost Knife fish start to get aggressive if they only have a small area or lack enough hiding locations. The perfect community should be created using peaceful catfish, Angelfish, peaceful cichlids, a discus, and corydoras. Small crustacea (such as shrimp) and gastropods are not well suited as they are perfect for black ghosts. Please do not keep the knife fish with fish that are smaller; they can turn to food. Be aware of smaller sizes of fish such as Tetras, Guppies, Barbs, and Rasboras.

Keep Black Ghost Knifefish Together

It would help if you didn’t keep Black Ghost Knifefish together because their electrical inputs might get twisted. It is best to leave a single individual in the tank to avoid problems. It would be best if you also prevented other species of Knifegish (e.g., Brown Ghost) as also emitting conflicting electromagnetic signals causes both fish to stress. Besides being territorial fish among them.

Breeding

Black Ghost Knife-fish is bred in Indonesia by businesses specializing in aquarium trades. It is reported that ponds are used for breeding the fish primarily due to their mature size of up to 20 inches in length. Naturally, you will need a large aquarium to breed and raise the young fish successfully. And this is just not possible for most home hobbyists. It remains uncertain how it’s done to date, and it can not be known for sure. The species is believed to be bred in ponds in Indonesia, but the precise methodology is still unspecified.

Diseases to watch out for

There is a high skin disease risk. These fish do not have the scale armor on which other fish can rely. Investing in a good filter such as the Flaviv FX4 and UV-sanitizer will prevent these fish from having infections and diseases. If something gets cut or scratched, it can make it a higher risk of catching an infection. If you notice some difficulty or no improvement of the disease, you should try some treatment. Time is the essence to monitor the cuts you see for proper healing and if the amounts do not seem to improve.

Disease prevention

Quarantine every new fish thoroughly before adding it to your aquarium. Place fish into quarantine tanks for up to two weeks before introducing them into your main display setup. Stress can kill fish. Give your Black Ghost Knifefish the correct water parameters, an environment that closely replicates his wild habitat, and a properly balanced diet to ensure he has suitable water and food.

Different Pleco Types: Which One Is Right For Your Aquarium Tank?

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Types Of Plecos

If you are an aquarist, you know that there is nothing more enjoyable than having a well-kept aquarium. One of the most important aspects of keeping fish in your tank is choosing the right companions for them. Plecos are one type of fish that would be a good fit for any size aquarium and can provide many benefits to your aquatic environment. In this blog post, we will go over 15 different types of plecos so that you can find one perfect for your needs!

To Start – Let’s Talk Minimum Tank Size

For very small pleco species, you will need at least a 20+ gallon aquarium as minimum tank size. If you want to keep your plecos in an aquarium smaller than 30 gallons, you will need to provide extra hiding spots. You will also need the proper filtering system to match that minimum tank size.
A 30+ gallon aquarium is the minimum tank size for most juvenile and small dwarf species of plecos.
65-gallon aquariums are good for medium-sized pleco species, such as some bristle nose pleco or many common plecostomus. Some plecostomus species, however, grow exceptionally big, requiring over 95 gallons as a minimum tank size.
90+ gallon aquariums are generally considered appropriate for most adult-sized plecos. Some very large plecos can reach up to a maximum size of 24 inches long.

Common Pleco


Hypostomus plecostomus, or the common pleco, is one of the popular types of plecos (probably the most common pleco species in the world). Keep in mind that this is a very large species of plecos, growing up to 24 inches long. This is not a good type of plecos for an aquarium with less than 65 gallons of water. This type of pleco really needs its own space!

Zebra Pleco

Zebra Pleco
These are striped types of plecos that mimic the shape of a zebra (hence the name Zebra Plecos). They grow to around 4 inches. Care is fairly easy. Keep their tank in a tropical heated aquarium with non-aggressive partners. They live between 10 and 15 years, depending on the level of care. They are carnivorous plecos with a low degree of herbivory, requiring lie food and feed for carnivores to maintain good health. These species are shy at first during the day and often want comfortable hiding places to rest. After some time, they tend to become less shy and explore the whole aquarium. They look wonderful in groups and are easy to reproduce.

Sailfin Pleco

Sailfin Pleco
Sailfin plecos are grown to a maximum height of around 14 inches and can live for 20 years. They are pretty fish with a leopard-print pattern covering their body armor. They eat mostly plant food and sometimes largely animal protein. You must make sure that you provide a tank suitable for their size. Because they are big and feed all day, they both keep the tank free of algae and produce huge amounts of excrement.

Leopard Frog Pleco

Leopard Frog Pleco
Leopard frog plecos usually age 8 to 10 years. Their average length is just slightly more than 4 inches. They are omnivores with a strong herbivorous tendency, and they prefer other plant materials to algae. Thus, while great additions to the tank, they do not act as good tank cleaners.

Snowball Pleco

Snowball Pleco
There are three species commonly called Snowball pleco. Together, these three species range in size from 5 to 12 inches (the two from the genus baryancistrus are larger than the other, from the genus hypancistrus)… They derive their name from the patterns of white dots that they have. Depending on water and food quality and general care, these species live about 8 to 10 years. Depending on the species, Snowball plecos may be hungry for biofilm and plant foods, eat algae in the aquarium (baryancistrus), or nearly strictly carnivorous (hypancistrus). For these creatures to thrive, plecos must have heated tropical tanks. They should also have a nice space with hiding places and great water and food quality, as they are sensitive species.

Peppermint Pleco

Peppermint Pleco
 
There are two species, commonly called Peppermint pleco, that grows to about 7 inches and live about 10 to 12 years. One type, from ancistrus, likes to eat vegetable matter but does not prefer algae, whereas the other, from paracistrus, eats algae ferociously. They typically are peaceful communal species with tropical tankmates. The ancistrus enjoys still waters while the parancistrus prefers fast-moving water channels. They both want warm and heated tanks.

Orange Spot Pleco

Orange Spot Pleco
There are two species under this name, but one of them is quite rare. This section will cover the more common type, lda031.
This type of pleco loves to hide in trees and nibble on the soil. They are timid and like to go out in the total dark. They need to have driftwood in their food. They exhibit orange dots across their fins and body, making them rather interesting to look at. Unfortunately, orange spot plecos (especially males) show more aggressive behavior to other plecos, so it is good to keep them alone in a heated tank with other compatible tropical tankmates. Usually, they live at least for about 12+ years, and their maximum size is about 5 inches.

Royal Pleco


This species of pleco is known for its digestion of various woods. Their bodies and fins are irregularly colored, striped in black and white patterns. They weigh about 22 kilograms and last about 10 years on average. They predominantly eat algae-based foods like sinking pellets or wafers and occasionally enjoy meat-based snacks. Because of their large size, they can perform well in large heated tanks, and they do well with other fish.

Butterfly Pleco


Butterfly plecos are nocturnal and like to hide in the dark at times. Interestingly, these fish change colors very quickly; when on a dark substrate, they will turn nearly black, but they will show a pretty striped pattern during the day on lighter substrates. These fish have an extremely healthy appetite. They live on algae constantly and need supplementary food such as grilled and preserved veggies. They also sometimes like animal protein, like insect larvae. While they do not feed on wood, they like the biofilm that forms on wood. These fish produce tons of waste because of their high consumption, so a healthy filtration system is important.

Otocinclus Catfish


The Otocinclus catfish is an opportunist algae eater that will feed on other things when it does not have algae. It often stays on the tank walls, scraping away biofilm and algae. If you plan on buying one, you should have an existing mature tank. They are susceptible to water parameters while acclimating, so be careful. Once acclimated, they are quite resistant fish. Do some research before buying some other new tank mates for this catfish. In nature, they make giant shoals with more than 100 individuals, so it is good to keep them in shoals in aquaria. However, with large numbers of fish, the algae and biofilm reserves are quickly depleted, and not all otos will be able to convert to artificial feed. So be sure to plan before buying these fish!

Blue-Eyed Plecos


The blue-eyed pleco, native to Colombia, has amazing blue eyes. It likes driftwood to eat (they are voracious biofilm eaters), graze for algae, and hide during their inactive hours. Its body is covered in large, thick, gray armor plates. They can have a lot of light, depending on their conditions. They are probably the biggest plecos in the aquarist community and need rapid water for growth, as well as a massive tank…

Vampire Pleco


The vampire pleco is an interesting fish. Its eyes dilate differently with different light intensities, making it interesting to watch. Vampire plecos make the perfect addition for community tanks. The fish are mostly peaceful, and when fed in a dark place, they are calm. However, they can be aggressive and territorial, and they like to get in trouble with bigger plecos. Their environment must be very oxygenated and fast-flowing, and they have a high carnivorous tendency.

Candy Striped Pleco


Candy Striped Plecos live within the Xingu and Tapajós river basins. They thrive best with a tank heavily coated with rocks and driftwood. They are algae eaters, but that’s not all they need; they are omnivorous with a tendency toward meaty foods with animal proteins, preferring live and fresh products. They are very peaceful fish.

Are there even smaller pleco fish?

The Soromon Pleco is the smallest type of pleco known to date, reaching an overall body size of 1.2 inches. They occur at Soromoni Creek, a clearwater tributary of the upper Orinoco and in the Guiana shield area. This species has been known for some years, but commercial expeditions do not generally encounter these fish due to the geographical isolation of the regions where they live.

Gold Spot Dwarf Pleco


The gold spot dwarf pleco keeps its size small throughout its lifetime and only reaches 2 inches in maximum body size. They prefer to stay in groups, and a 10-gallon tank will hold no more than three of them. Fine gravel or sand is a suitable substrate as the fish sometimes like to bury themselves in it. This species of dwarf pleco is also very timid and does not like being around especially active and fast fish. This fish species is often mislabeled as a Pitbull pleco in fish markets, so remember this when looking for them.

Queen Arabesque Pleco


The queen arabesque pleco is a small, exotic fish that grows to just around 3.5 inches under good care. Like many other plecos in this list, this pleco likes a good deal of driftwood in its tank; it also loves to have its own cave. They have a carnivorous tendency in their diet and love to eat live food. They’re best matched with a planted environment with a moderately strong current. They are sensitive to nitrogen and low oxygen levels in the water. They take some time to adapt to a new aquarium and can get pretty shy.

Pitbull Pleco – Parotocinclus jumbo


This fish reaches about 2.5′′ at maturity and is usually a slow grower. Pitbull plecos are social and should go in groups of at least three, but if you have the necessary space, go with six or more (a 30-gallon tank is recommended for six of them). They are ravenous algae-eaters and love algae wafers. Anything with animal protein should be given very occasionally (a few times a month). They are clumsy and can break plants during feeding.

All in all, the Pleco is a great addition to your aquarium

Why is the pleco a great fish for your aquarium?

Plecos are hardy fish. They can withstand the most extreme water conditions. This makes them very easy to maintain, giving you basic filtration and some algae in return. You even do not have to know exactly how many are there in your tank. Just add food regularly and keep an eye on nitrates and the quality of the water.

Plecos are the best fish for algae eating.

They eat almost any algae in your tank; they’re not picky about food and will eat some algae that other fish will refuse, such as green spot algae.
You can keep more than several plecos in a community aquarium, but be careful with larger and more aggressive species such as the common pleco; they can grow enormous and may eat smaller fish if they are hungry enough. Only get large ones if you plan on keeping them alone or breeding them. Make sure to give a fish the space it will need as an adult at full size.
If you have a problem with algae and can’t find an effective fish to help solve it, then add an algae-eating pleco or two to your aquarium and start enjoying clear water again!

Pleco’s are also great scavenger fish

They love leftovers as much as live food, so make sure you feed them some extra food after you have fed your other fish.
If you want more than one pleco, consider buying a group of 3-4 newborns rather than just buying one adult. Some plecos are known to attack and kill their own kind if hungry enough (massive ones). It’s all about being prepared!
If you are keeping these fish, then always give them plenty of places to hide, such as rock caves, driftwood, and plants. This will make them feel much happier as they are nocturnal fish and sleep during the day. And make sure to have enough algae and biofilm for all the fish.

Give them places to hide

If you do not give them places to hide then they may attack your other fish/shrimp & snails, or even bite off their own fins out of stress – especially newly purchased ones who are still stressed from moving into a new aquarium. Always prepare your fish before adding them to your tank by placing them in a plastic bag inside the main aquarium for 15-30 minutes (depending on size), so they get used to the temperature first. Be careful not to add too many at once! This can destabilize the filtration, which leads to ammonia spikes.
They like deep substrates such as river gravel, sand, or clay balls, but it is not required as they will live quite happily in the normal aquarium gravel. Just make sure that the substrate doesn’t have any sharp points that would hurt the plecos’ mouths. Keep in mind that a deep substrate makes cleaning more difficult. Siphoning the bottom of the tank is necessary several times a week to keep it free of residues.
Try not to change the substrate you are using too frequently, as this may stress them out. If you want a different substrate, then prepare their tank by doing a large water change (50%+) before adding the new substrate, and slowly fill the tank up over a couple of days.

The bottom line is, never ever consider your pleco just another “algae eater”

Plecos are an integral part of your aquarium. You should care for them as pets and admire their beauty. Appreciate what they do for you and your other fish because without them, many tanks would be overrun with algae!

For more info, you can check out

Our link to our pleco care article is here.

Wrapping Up

Plecos are amazing fish that come in a variety of shapes and colors to suit every water tank. You can find the perfect pleco for your aquarium with this list, so go out and grab one or two today! We hope you found this blog post helpful; if there’s anything else we can do for you, please don’t hesitate to reach out.