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Best Substrate for Cichlid Aquarium

Trevor Blog, Plants & Substrate (reviews), Tank Set-up (Care Guide), Tropical Freshwater (guides) March 4, 2024aquarium substrate, substrate for cichlids

Choosing the correct substrate for your tank is important as it aids biological filtration, enhances the habitat for your cichlids, is beneficial to live plants and on top of this, adds to the beauty of your fish tank. In this article we jump into the lively debate and explore which is the best substrate for cichlid aquarium.

Cichlids are a popular choice with aquarium owners. There are more than 1,000 species of cichlids and they are found in most parts of the world.

It is the species found in the African lakes being considered the most beautiful. Cichlids can be just a few centimeters in size or up to 90cm.

They are popular, not just because of their looks, most of them are easy-going fish that are easy to keep and fun to watch.

They are low maintenance and – if kept in the right conditions- are long-living.

Best Substrate for Cichlid Aquarium

Natural vs. Artificial Substrates

The first question to answer is what is substrate? Substrate is aquarium gravel, sand or any other material poured in a layer on the tank’s bottom.

Substrate fulfils several roles with the important one being that beneficial bacteria live on the substrate and there the bacteria break down leftover food, fish waste and any plant debris and this helps to keep the water clean and the balance of good and bad bacteria in check.

Experimenting with different types of materials helps determine the best substrate for cichlid aquarium.

Natural substrates

These are usually classified as ‘inert’ and ‘active’ and this refers to whether they change the chemistry of the water in the tank so that it supports plant life.

The changes that are made are usually positive because the natural substrate contains micronutrients. Some are designed to reduce the pH of a tank whilst others leech ammonia into the water which is beneficial for the plants.

Active substrates with aragonite help prevent pH swings in fish tanks, whilst one with peat will soften the tank water and one with vermiculate releases magnesium and potassium into the water which are both nutritional to plants.

Pebbles:

The largest form of natural nitrates can also be made using artificial materials. Pebbles come in every size and color imaginable, and the natural ones are made of rock or quartz.

Pebbles look good but when they are in layers at the bottom of the tank there are large gaps between them, and these can easily trap leftover foods and fish waste which in time can build up and produce nitrates and these are toxic to cichlid (and other fish).

Live plants do not root very easily in pebbles either.

Gravel:

In reality, gravel is just really small-pebbles. Gravel is available in a variety of natural (and artificial) materials and each piece of gravel usually measures between 2-4mm.

The big advantage of choosing gravel is that the gaps between the gravel are small so it is much harder for food or fish waste to get trapped.

Food waste tends to just settle on top of the gravel so that it can be easily cleaned up using a tank vacuum.

Sand:

Natural sand is another popular type of substrate and comes in a variety of different types- just as it does on different beaches.

The grains of sand are available in different sizes from really fine to coarse and a selection of natural shades.

Aquarium Sand is a popular choice because it helps create the most natural environment for fish like the cichlid that has sand in its native home.

Sand is nice and easy to clean too as there is nowhere for uneaten food or animal waste to go except lie on top of the sand for easy removal.

Variations on sand substrates include crushed coral and crushed shells.

Aquarium soil:

This is specially formulated soil that means that it does not easily mix with tank water to become a muddy mess!

It is popular with those planting many plants in their aquarium as it is rich in nutrients which is good for the plants.

For those not wanting to plant many plants, other substrates are more suitable.

Having said that, some experts have a bottom substrate of soil so that their tank plants thrive and top this with a layer of natural sand.

Artificial substrate

There is a wide variety of artificial substrate available on the market, made from all different materials that does not affect the quality of the tank water.

Artificial pebbles, gravels, sands and soils can all be bought. Artificial pebbles for example, can be bought made from glass, beads and plastic.

Ceramic beads in a rainbow of colors are also available. Like all-natural substrate, those like the artificial beads and pebbles still form gaps where spare food and fish waste can easily accumulate.

And bare bottoms!

Some aquarium fans are adamant that there is no need to have a substrate and do not have any in their tank –this is usually referred to as a ‘bare bottom tank’.

This approach is not possible if you have fish like cichlid that like to dig in the substrate or others who scavenge for food.

The Best Substrate for Cichlids Aquarium

If you have cichlids, it is important to understand their natural living conditions. Most of the African cichlids come from the African rift lakes.

The waters in these lakes have very high mineral content and a high pH level ranging from 7.7 – 9.3. The water is harder and slightly more alkaline.

If you do not mimic these conditions in your fish tank, your cichlids will lose their color, be unable to breed and be more prone to infection.

Aquarium Ivory Coast sand is a great choice of substrate if you have a fish tank with African cichlids. This is because this substrate contains various natural minerals that are found in their natural habitat and helps keep the tank water crystal clear.

The Ivory Coast black sand is an alternative which can make a dramatic contrast with your brightly colored fish. It is more like a fine gravel than sand but contains a water-purifying bacteria that helps to detox the water.

Many fish experts recommend using coral sand, crushed coral or crushed oyster shell too. These help to balance the pH of the tank water. They prefer hard and slightly alkaline water, and this will also enhance the colors of your fish.

Considerations When Choosing Substrate

There are four important points to consider when choosing a substrate for your cichlid’s tank:

Size of particles

It is important to remember that uneaten food and fish waste and get trapped in the gaps between large particles/ pebbles and this will negatively impact the water quality of your tank as they decompose as the toxins build up.

It is important to consider what your cichlid wants too – they usually like to dig in sand.

Color

There are just so many different colors to choose from and whilst some are bright and whacky, others are totally naturally and enhance the beauty of the fish.

Darker colors can have the effect of making tanks and aquariums look smaller whilst light natural shades enhance their size. Some substrate looks dirty quickly, so this is another consideration.

Impact on the tank water

The African Cichlid is one of many fish species that needs certain water parameters – in this case a higher pH.

One way to achieve this is to add a substrate to the tank that will buffer the water.

Coral is a really good choice for cichlids as it does this successfully and coral sand combines the benefits of the coral on the pH and sand which is the cichlids’ favorite substrate.

Effect on the fish

What you choose as substrate will definitely impact your fish. Substrate with sharp edges can hurt fish.

Light-colored substrate can frighten fish– especially if teamed with bright lights.

To ensure you make a good choice, research the natural habitat and behavior of your cichlid and try to recreate it.

It is important to remember that you do not need to use just one type of substrate. If you need to use crushed coral for your tank but your cichlid much prefers sand, either invest in some coral sand – if you can find it- or mix crushed coral with sand for maximum benefit.

Some cichlid experts recommend using coral sand with aragonite. This is because aragonite is crystallized calcium carbonate which increases the hardness of water and its pH- both these are beneficial for healthy happy cichlids.

Tips for Maintaining and Using Substrate

When choosing a substrate for your cichlids, sand is considered the best. This is because cichlids love to dig in the sand and move it around.

They do scavenge for food in the wild and do make nests in the sand for their eggs. When you are putting aquarium sand or coral sand into your tank, it is best to have the layer at a depth of 2.5 – 5 cm (1-2 inches).

When you are in the pet shop wondering how much to buy, the guide is one pound (450g) per gallon of water.

Regular maintenance of the best substrate for cichlid aquarium is crucial for sustaining a balanced ecosystem.

It is important to keep the tank environment well and to remove any food and fish waste from the tank promptly and not let it start to decompose.

You should regularly change the water in your tank once or twice a week – the frequency depends on how many fish and the size of tank.

Once a month, you need to clean all the algae from the tank walls using a sponge, clean the sand by stirring in water to release all the dirt particles and check and clean the filter and pump.

It is a good idea to test your tank water weekly for nitrate levels and the pH. If your fish seem stressed test the water straight away to pinpoint the problem.

Final Thoughts – best substrate for cichlid aquarium

Selecting the best substrate for cichlid aquarium can significantly impact the health and behavior of the fish.

Choosing natural sand or coral sand for your fish tank will really enhance the environment for your cichlid as it will mimic their natural environment.

Keep the sand clean and healthy for your fish and regularly check the hardness of the water and its pH to ensure these are both within the ideal parameters for your cichlid.

Your fish will definitely enjoy having a substrate of sand or coral sand in their tank and you will have the fun of watching them digging in the sand and maybe even building a nest.

Unlocking the Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants [Top Tips]

Trevor Aquarium Plants (info and tips), Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Equipment (info & tips), Plants (guides), Tank Set-up (Care Guide) February 18, 2024aquarium lighting, light spectrum

This article is all about lighting for plant growth. We’ll focus on understanding the best spectrum for aquarium plants.

Live plants add beauty in an aquarium, but they not only look good they help maintain a balanced ecosystem in the tank and have many benefits for your fish including providing oxygen, food and cover which lowers their stress levels.

To keep your plants healthy, they will need clean water, nutrients and plenty of full spectrum light to promote photosynthesis and plant growth.

Understanding Light Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

Different plants need more intense light to thrive, and a stronger light source is needed for taller fish tanks.

Aquatic plants thrive best under full spectrum light with a color temperature (known as a Kelvin rating) of 6,500- 8,000k.

It is essential that you choose a light source that has been designed to be beneficial to tank plants -such as high output T5 fluorescent and LED lighting.

The ‘light spectrum’ refers to the visible range of light and this is measured in nanometers according to the wavelength of the light energy – as seen by the naked eye.

This usually ranges between 400- 800 nanometers, with ultraviolet light towards the low end of the spectrum and infrared at the top end.

The visible spectrum of light is often accompanied a color scale, measured in color temperature using degrees.

Kelvin Black is at the lowest temperature of zero degrees and this progresses to red, then yellow, green, blue and then violet at the warmest temperature. Sunlight is full spectrum.

It is important to understand these basics of the light spectrum when choose the lighting for your tank as there are many different types of lighting to choose from.

Light bulbs are labelled such as ‘actinic’ and ‘daylight’ and they each produce a different light for different tanks with different fish and plants.

For example, actinic bulbs produce lighting from the blue end of the spectrum, and this is ideal for saltwater reef tanks as it can penetrate deep water.

Full spectrum lights are often referred to as ‘daylight’ bulbs as they are produced from all wavelengths and are very similar to the light produced naturally in daylight.

This type of lighting is good for both freshwater and saltwater aquariums.

‘Colour enhancing’ bulbs produce light from the warmer end of the spectrum and are also ideal for both freshwater and saltwater tanks.

The different light wavelengths affect plants differently. For example, the power of red light is lost rapidly in water while blue light has penetrated the water more strongly and is more effective for photosynthesis and stimulating pigmentation in some plants.

Red light is effective for stimulating plant growth but needs to be stronger. Green is also good for aquatic plants.

Choosing the Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

Red and blue parts of the color spectrum have advantages although they are often lacking in light bulbs.

The first is that they will accentuate the color of the plants in your tank. However, it is important that the light bulb you choose also has green/orange/yellow spectrum too to give a balanced effect – although these colors will have less impact on your tank plants.

Stronger red/ blue lighting will also stimulate pigmentation in certain plants. Especially those with red leaves and out of the two, the blue spectrum of light is more important.

The plants will grow healthier too and be fuller in shape with more leaves.

Although the coloration of your plants is affected by the nutrients you give your tank plants, lighting plays a key role too.

It is said that having more blue in your light spectrum will mean there will be more algae in the tank, but this has not been proved.

When buying your aquatic plants, it is a good idea to ask for guidance about their light requirements.

T5 lighting, the strongest and ideal if you want a densely planted tank and you can plant the most light-needy plants in the center of the tank where the light is strongest.

The ‘rule of thumb’ is that you will need 1-2 watts per liter of water, but this calculation will need to be adjusted according to the type of fish you have and the depth of your tank.

For example, light from a fluorescent tube usually only penetrates the water to a depth of 60cm which may not be enough if you have a deep tank.

It is important to remember that most species of aquarium fish come from the tropics where there is an equal amount of day and night so they will need to have 12 hours of light. It is best to maintain the day/night cycle. Leaving your aquarium lights on will encourage the growth of algae.

Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants for Different Stages of Plant Growth

Certain light spectrums trigger the growth of different characteristics in aquarium plants – at different stages.

For plants to optimally absorb the chlorophyll in the process of photosynthesis both blue and red light are the most efficient, but at certain stages the strength of each can make a difference.

Early growth and seedling stage

The blue light spectrum (400-500 nm) is essential for both seedlings and young plants as the light encourages them to establish a healthy root and stem structure during vegetative stages as they establish a healthy root and stem structure.

Vegetative growth stage

Blue light spectrums are credited with encouraging the vegetative growth stage and the structural growth of plants.

Flowering and fruiting stage

The best spectrum for aquarium plants light spectrum for this stage is the red (600-700nm) as is the one best absorbed by chlorophyll pigments.

Red will promote flowering and fruiting as well as helping stems to develop and leaves to grow.

It is red light that plays a key role in the plant’s maturity and its size.

There is, however, no single light spectrum that will guarantee a larger crop.

Types of Aquaria Light and Their Spectrum

A. Full Spectrum Lights

These tank lights are often nicknamed ‘daylight bulbs’ because the light they emit mimics natural daylight.

This type of bulb emits light at all visible wavelengths, so they are considered good all-purpose lights to choose for an aquarium.

LED lighting is relatively new in the aquatic world and proving very successful.

An LED light can last five years, making it economical – especially as running costs are low too.

LED lights can be used really creatively too, and a bonus is that they do not generate much heat.

C. T5 and T8 Fluorescent Lights

These are the most common types of aquarium lighting.

Both can be used to help your tank plants develop, but the T5 is more powerful so is recommended for best spectrum for aquarium plants. Especially if you are cultivating your tank plants densely.

If you have plants that demand a high level of lighting, two T5 fluorescent tubes could be good.

D. Metal Halide Lights

Metal halide lights have long been popular for their energy efficiency although the Performance of LED lights is far better.

Having said that, a new 400-watt metal halide light will last up to 20,000 hours.

Metal halide lighting is intense, so they are a good choice for deep aquariums or if you need wide coverage.

This type of lighting does generate more heating and require more maintenance. Radium metal halide bulbs are purpose-built for growing corals in your tank.

LED lighting is fast becoming the popular way to achieve the best light spectrum for your tank, but there are some good tips to help you achieve the optimum lighting.

Proper Placement of Lights

Research this a little, based on the type of fish and plants you have as their requirements will differ, but cool running and energy-efficient LED lighting suits many tanks and can provide the best spectrum for aquarium plants.

Using Timers for Consistency

It is important to be consistent with the timings for your aquarium lighting and a timer definitely makes life easier.

You want to have a good day/night balance for your tank with a maximum of 8 hours of light on full power and up to four hours at a lower strength- this will resemble natural sunshine as the midday sun is very different to early morning and evening sun.

If you set your timer for longer than this, you could damage your plants or encourage algae.

Adjusting Light Intensity and Duration

The best way to measure light intensity is using PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) numbers which are provided by tank light manufacturers to inform customers so that they can buy the light most suitable for their aquarium.

A PAR value of 75-100 μmols offers light for plants needing low light intensity, 125 ~150 μmols, for plants requiring medium light intensity and 200 μmols plus is for use with high light demanding plants.

The main consideration will be the depth of your fish tank as this will affect the amount of light penetrating to the bottom of your fish tank.

Generally, it is recommended to start off with low light in your aquarium as this is suitable for most aquatic plants.

Monitoring Plant Response

Your fish tank will have an ever-changing eco-system that will need to be monitored to ensure that you have got the lighting right.

When you have a new aquarium with young plants, less light will be needed than when the tank and its plants have matured.

If you have to make adjustments, always note down the light settings so that you can see what adjustments are working.

If you have the lighting very bright and the algae seems to be flourishing, it is best to turn the light intensity down.

When you start lighting your aquarium choose a light intensity of 20-40% brightness and slowly increase the intensity if there is no algae bloom. If algae does develop, you will need to lower the lighting again.

If you have any persistent problems, ask at your local aquatic center for advice.

Real-life Examples and Case Studies of the Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

The amount of light in your aquarium is crucial if you are growing aquatic plants because without the right amount of light in the correct color spectrum they will fail to thrive and simply die.

You must tailor-make the lighting in your tank fit the environment you are creating, and this depends on the type of fish and plants you choose, and these choices are usually made depending on how much time you can dedicate to caring for your aquarium.

It is well worth seeking advice on your choices to avoid disappointment. All plants have different light needs but generally, the more light a plant requires, the harder that plant will be to grow successfully.

A much-quoted case study focuses on the beautiful Glossostigma Elantinoides.

When it is healthy and thriving, this gorgeous aquatic plant covers the floor of the fish tank like green velvet grass.

To achieve this is far from easy as this plant is really tricky to grow. It requires intense lighting and because of this, there is usually a battle with increased algae levels.

If the algae is kept in check, to keep the plant looking good takes time to keep well-fertilized and pruned and
another requirement is more frequent water changes.

Not surprisingly, many enthusiasts ditch their ideas of being successful and plump for easy-care plants instead.

Final Thoughts – Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

The success of your aquarium plants will depend on the lighting you choose and getting the best spectrum for aquarium plants.

It is essential to research the best spectrum for aquarium plants well as ideas will differ depending on your tank size and the types of fish and plants you have.

Your goal is to get the perfect balance in your aquarium between light, CO² levels and fertilizer.

When you achieve this, your fish will have a healthy environment and your tank plants will be flourishing and making keeping your tank well-maintained surprisingly easy.

Introducing Best Shrimp For Betta Tank [Top 3]

Trevor Betta Fish (info and tips), Blog, Care Guides, Shrimp (guides) November 27, 2023February 17, 2024shrimp, shrimp for betta tank

Selecting the best shrimp for betta tank environments requires careful consideration of shrimp size and temperament. In this article we have done the research on the best shrimp for betta tank ecosystems, helping you prevent potential conflicts and ensure a harmonious environment.

Betta fish are popular as they are both colorful and really beautiful to watch. They love living in a large tank with plenty of space for them to swim and several hiding places behind live plants too.

The ideal water temperature for Betta fish is 24°- 28°C (76°-82°F). Bettas love living in clean water conditions and also prefer soft water with pH7.

The Betta is also known as the Siamese Fighter Fish as it does have a reputation of being an aggressive fish – especially the males – and new owners often wonder it is wise to put their betta with other fish or whether there is a best shrimp for betta tank.

If you are planning to introduce some mates for your betta into his tank, it is best to do some good research first.

Best Shrimp for Betta Tank Cohabitation

Compatibility and Benefits

Bettas are territorial and can be aggressive. So there is no point trying to introduce any species of small shrimps into the tank as they will simply be eaten or injured.

The best type of shrimps to introduce into your betta’s tank are the large freshwater species. The shrimp should be about the same length of your beta if there is going to be a chance of them living in harmony.

The minimum length for your shrimps is 5cm (2 inches).

Shrimps can be really good tank mates for betta fish. Shrimps literally eat anything – including algae- so they will help keep the tank water in pristine condition – just as your betta likes it!

Although your betta fish will dominate the fish tank because of their good looks, having some shrimp in the tank definitely adds interest and fun.

Should you decide that you would like to encourage your shrimps to spawn, their young offspring make a really nutritious meal for your betta too.

Best Shrimp for Betta Tanks [Our Top Picks]

Cherry Shrimp

There are a number of different cherry shrimps but it is the red cherry shrimp that is the hardiest of them all which is why this shrimp is compatible with Bettas.

Characteristics and appearance:

As its name implies, the red cherry shrimp is a lovely dark red color which will certainly add extra color to your tank. Having said that, because of its color, this shrimp is easier for your betta to spot – if he is feeling aggressive.

Your Betta will eat your shrimps, so it is important that you buy large ones and also ensure that your tank offers them plenty of hiding places. Female red cherry shrimps are usually larger in size than males and a stronger color.

Compatibility with bettas:

Red cherry shrimps can live well alongside bettas because they are no trouble at all but will quietly spend their time scavenging which will keep the tank clean.

Care requirements:

Red cherry shrimps are easy to care for as they enjoy the same range of water temperature as your Betta. Their normal lifespan is 2-3 years and in a ten-gallon tank with one betta you can keep up to six red cherry shrimps.

Amano Shrimp

Characteristics and appearance:

The amano shrimp originates in Japan. They are peaceful and easy to care for making them a good tank mate for bettas.

They are usually a light brown color but can be translucent. The great thing about having these shrimps in your tank is that they love cleaning!

Amano will keep the tank completely clear of algae at all times.

Compatibility with bettas:

An aggressive betta will eat an amano shrimp. So, it is really important to ensure that there is plenty of space in the tank and to provide lots of hiding places for the shrimps as this shrimp loves to hide in dense vegetation.

Amanos moult every month and when this happens, they feel very vulnerable and will disappear from view, hiding in the weed for several days.

A maximum of six shrimps in a ten-gallon tank with one betta is recommended.

Care requirements:

Amano really are lovely shrimps that take minimal care, but their diet of algae can need nutritional supplements such as shrimp pellets, zucchini, or algae wafers several times a week. The only big problem with Amano is that they are not always easy to buy.

Ghost Shrimp

Characteristics and appearance:

Ghost shrimps are a great choice for your betta tank because they are just so easy to care for. They are really clever at hiding which is a real advantage if your betta is in a stroppy mood. Having said that, your ghost shrimps won’t trouble your betta.

Ghost shrimps tend to be loners and only interact with their own species. There are two different types of ghost shrimp Palaemonetes Paludosus and Macrobrachium Lanchesteri.

The first type is gentle and the best one to put in a tank with betta.

Compatibility with bettas:

Ghost shrimps are the best type of freshwater shrimps to choose to live with your betta. They are transparent shrimps that are sometimes referred to as ‘glass shrimps’.

This is a good advantage as it makes it difficult for bettas to spot them! Ghost shrimps are very common, are cheap to buy and breed really easily which will bring the benefit of highly nutritious food for your betta.

Care requirements:

These shrimps happily live for 12-18 months. They are a more delicate type of shrimp and are easily affected by poor water conditions– the chemicals in the tank water can kill them.

They like the water temperature to be the same as Bettas and also like a pH of 7.

Ghost shrimps are excellent scavengers, and you may well see them swimming on the bottom of the tank checking the stones for anything edible!

The recommended number for a 10 gallon tank is 2-4 ghost shrimps.

Tips for Introducing Shrimp to a Betta Tank

Before you add shrimps to your beta tank, it is worth thinking about your plans. If you feel that your betta is an aggressive fish, you must appreciate the fact that your shrimps may not last too long as bettas will try and eat shrimps.

If you have a beautiful long-finned betta, your shrimps will stand a good chance of survival as this type of betta tends to swim more slowly so the shrimps will be able to swim faster to get away!

To successfully introduce shrimps into your fish tank with your betta, it is best to move your betta temporarily to another tank.

Clean the main tank and move some of the plants and ornaments to different positions ensuring there are plenty of hiding spots for your shrimps and spots of interest for your betta too. Allow plenty of room for them to swim around.

Introduce the shrimps to their new home and after about 48 hours, your betta. Your betta will think that he is in a new tank and may not consider the shrimps as intruders. Careful observation will be required as this trick doesn’t always work!

It is important to continue monitoring your fish tank well. Ensure that the water temperature and chemical balance are both good and that both your betta and shrimps have plenty to eat.

Additional considerations for best shrimp for betta tank

The set up of your aquarium is key to success and the key requirement is that it is large enough – ten gallons is the minimum size required.

As mentioned, your betta needs the water to be in the temperature range of 24°- 28°C (76°-82°F) with a pH of 7. These requirements will suit the shrimps too.

The shrimps need numerous good hiding places, and your beta will enjoy having places with numerous plants to explore as he will easily get bored.

Smooth ornaments that cannot hurt your betta or shrimps will add interest too.

It is important to keep your beta well-fed because if he is hungry, he will consider eating on of your shrimps. Check that the fish food you give him contains exoskeleton fiber content.

This is the nutrient betta get from eating shrimp – if you keep your betta supplied with this, he will not be tempted to try and eat one of your shrimps as an extra course.

Ensure that you understand the dietary requirements of both your betta and shrimps so that they are both really healthy and content as this will minimize any aggression from your betta.

Final thoughts – best shrimp for betta tank

Adding some Amano, Cherry Shrimp or Ghost Shrimps to your tank will definitely provide you with added interest with the added advantage that your tank will be kept well-cleaned – just as your betta likes it! These three species are our top picks for the best shrimp for betta tank.

Following our guidelines, you will be able to create an attractive tank filled with live plants, your beautiful betta and some shrimps to keep him company.

How Often Should You Feed a Betta Fish Bloodworms? [Top Tip]

Trevor Betta Fish (info and tips), Blog November 22, 2023November 27, 2023

The bright color of your Betta fish is always a good indication that he is in good healthy which is the result of a nutritional and diverse diet. A betta that enjoys a healthy diet is able to ward off infection more easily and less likely to be ill. A common question is ‘how often should you feed a betta fish bloodworms?’

Betta fish are carnivores and in the wild, a large part of their daily diet comprises of aquatic worms and a variety of insects that have fallen into the water.

Betta fish being kept in a tank should always have a diet that is high in protein. Popular protein foods include live or frozen worms including black, white and bloodworms, Daphnia (fruit flies) and mosquito larvae.

How often should you feed a betta fish bloodworms?

Understanding the Nutritional Value of Bloodworms

There are usually two different fish foods that are sold as bloodworms in pet shops. The first is called Chironomidae. These are not actually worms, but the bright red larvae of midge flies.

The other type of bloodworm comes from the genus Glycera and are about one centimeter in length and much thicker in girth than a black worm Both types are safe to feed your betta.

Chironomidae are much easier to breed and buy. Both types of bloodworm are available frozen, freeze dried or live and each type has its benefits.

Bloodworms contain 6 – 8% protein and are rich in iron but they don’t contain a wide range of amino acids. Whether you buy them fresh or frozen can impact their nutritional value.

● Live bloodworms

Live bloodworms are bloodworms in their most natural form.

Live bloodworms are more expensive, but there are benefits including the fact they are more nutritional because they are totally natural.

Bettas love fresh bloodworms because they have to hunt them, and this is a great way to keep your betta entertained.

Fresh bloodworms can only be bought in small quantities though as they need to be stored in the fridge for a maximum 2-3 days before they turn into midge flies.

Because the bloodworms are live there is a risk that they contain bacteria or parasites which could affect your betta.

● Freeze-dried bloodworms

Freeze-dried bloodworms are more convenient to use but do not have much nutritional value. They are usually sold in two different grades – Grade A and Grade B – with Grade A being the superior type to buy although much of their nutritional value is lost in the freeze-drying process.

A benefit is that any bacteria or parasites they contain will also be killed by freeze-drying. Freeze-dried bloodworms can be easily stored and before they are used, just need to be rehydrated by popping them into water.

● Frozen bloodworms

Frozen bloodworms can be successfully stored for up to six months and also contain a good percentage of the nutrients. The freezing process kills any bacteria or parasites the bloodworm contain… which is good!

There are a couple of watch-points when feeding your betta frozen bloodworms. The whole cube will be too much to feed your betta so once the cube has been defrosted, it should be cut into smaller pieces – do not let any of the defrosted water get into your fish tank to avoid contamination.

When you feed your betta with a piece of defrosted bloodworm, if he has not eaten it within two minutes remove the food from the tank.

Factors Influencing Feeding Frequency

Bloodworms should not be the only food you give your betta because they do not contain a high level of protein and nor do they contain a range of amino acids. Bloodworms are ideal to feed your betta two or three times a week.

It is important to only feed your betta a small amount of bloodworm. Bettas only have a small stomach and over feeding them will cause stress.

One bloodworm for a single meal, every 2-3 days is adequate for an adult Betta – and proportionately less for younger fish. Don not feed your betta a defrosted frozen bloodworm as this is too much food.

The bloodworm that is not eaten will drop to the bottom of the tank where it will soon disintegrate and generate ammonia.

There is a line of thought amongst some breeders that it is good to feed live bloodworms more frequently to Bettas you would like to breed. It is said that because this will feel like an abundance of food to them, it will suggest to them that it is the breeding season.

Signs of Overfeeding or Underfeeding

It is important not to feed your Betta too many bloodworms as this can cause serious health problems.

Swim bladder disease and constipation are both common and serious disorders in bettas that can be caused by overfeeding.

It is also important not to overfeed your betta bloodworms as this will cause an increase in ammonia in the fish tank.

Your betta will not be able to consume all the bloodworm which will quickly deteriorate on the floor of the tank causing a rise in the level of ammonia in the water. Beta can die from ammonia poisoning very quickly.

A betta with good body condition should be cone- shaped with the broadest part being the head and then a gradual tapering from the head to tail.

If your betta’s stomach is wider than his head, he is being overfed and if your betta is significantly thinner behind his head and not cone-shaped, he is underfed.

Best Practices and Tips for Bloodworm Feeding

It is a good idea to incorporate bloodworms into a balanced diet for your betta, but it must be done carefully, and the bloodworms should be alternated with other foods that are better nutritionally for your Betta.

It is important to remember that when giving live bloodworms to your betta there is a chance of infection because they may contain bacteria.

You should buy your bloodworms from a reputable pet shop. Always rinse the bloodworms thoroughly before feeding them to your Betta and never let any of the water from the bloodworm/pet shop get into your fish tank.

It is a good idea to alternate the foods you give your Betta so that you give him a wide range of nutrients. Bettas need to be fed a small amount twice a day.

Some food like brine shrimps and mysis shrimps have a higher nutritional value- more so than bloodworms.

Daphnia are another good fresh food to feed Betta – pop them in a freezer for a short while to slow them down before you give them to your betta. Mosquito larvae and vinegar eels are also good. It is important to only feed your fish bloodworms a couple of times each week as they are very rich.

Final thoughts – How often should you feed a betta fish bloodworms?

Bloodworms can be a great food to give your Betta, but best to stick to the couple of times a week rule and certainly do not make bloodworms the staple food in your Betta’s diet.

It is of paramount importance to give your betta a healthy and varied diet to ensure that he stays in good health and his magnificent color could be no richer.

Feeding your betta with too many bloodworms can result in constipation, swim bladder disease and other diseases.

If you are feeding your betta too much bloodworm for a meal, much will not be eaten, and you will have to remove it from the tank and ditch it – which will dent your wallet too!

Understanding: Why Is My Fish Swimming Sideways? [6 reasons]

Trevor Blog, Diseases (info & tips), Goldfish (care), Uncategorized September 20, 2023November 27, 2023goldfish disease, swim bladder, swimming sideways

It can be quite alarming to find your goldfish swimming sideways or even upside down in the water. There are several causes of this problem including your fish eating either too much or too quickly. Here we answer the question- why is my fish swimming sideways?

Why is my fish swimming sideways?

Swimming sideways caused by swim bladder disorder?

Swim bladder disorder is a condition that causes the swim bladder to stop functioning properly and for your goldfish (and other aquarium fish) to have problems with buoyancy and his ability to sink or swim.

Swim bladder disorder is usually caused by one of several different problems rather than just one disease. It may appear at first glance that your goldfish is dead, but closer examination will reveal that he is still breathing but is having problems with both his balance and buoyancy.

As well as swimming sideways, a goldfish with swim bladder problems may float to the surface or swim upside down. This is because their buoyancy is badly affected. Your goldfish may also be using his fins far more than usual to try and keep in the correct upright position.

The good news is that with care your goldfish can be nursed back to health and make a full recovery. It is important to know what has caused the problem to avoid it happening again.

What is the role of the swim bladder?

The swim bladder is a large internal organ that is filled with gas and acts like a buoyancy tank for your goldfish and will also help him maintain balance. There are a number of problems that goldfish can develop with their swim bladder. These problems can affect many other species of fish too.

Could your fish have constipation?

If the water in your tank is on the cool side, your goldfish could well have constipation. The reason for this is that cool water slows down the digestion of food. Also, too much food has accumulated in the gastrointestinal tract.

It is best to test the water temperature and if necessary to raise the temperature of the tank to 21- 27C ( 70- 80F).

This can be easily done by using a heat pad or probe heater. It is a good idea to fix a thermometer on the tank wall. This is so that it is immersed in water and easily read on a regular basis.

If warming the water doesn’t work, try the frozen pea trick mentioned below. Frozen peas are a good source of fiber which should get your fish’s digestive system working again.

Fish swimming sideways- a sign of enlarged organs

Another reason that your goldfish could be swimming on its side is an eating problem – or to be more accurate – an overeating problem. When a goldfish overeats its internal organs become enlarged. This prevents the swim bladder from doing its job properly.

The best way to get your goldfish better is to stop feeding the fish for three days. By doing this, you are giving your fish the chance to digest the food in their body properly – without adding to it.

The result will be that their body will be able to process the food normally, giving organs like the stomach and intestines, the chance to reduce back in size to how they should be.

Whilst fasting for three days will not cause your goldfish any harm, you should not let him go without food for any longer.

Keep a close eye on him throughout the fasting period. Hopefully his condition will improve. If your fish still has the problem at the end of the third day try feeding him extra fiber.

Try the frozen pea trick!

This may sound strange, but there are two benefits for feeding your goldfish cooked frozen peas.

The first benefit is that the peas are packed with fiber which can ease constipation problems.

The second benefit is that it is possible that your goldfish swallowed some air when eating his flaked food.

Peas are very different in consistency and easily help solve the problem. However, they must be prepared carefully and given to your goldfish following three days of fasting.

Your goldfish should be fed only 1-2 frozen peas per day.
Cook the peas until they are soft, remove the peel and chop the pea into small pieces and drop on the surface of the water.
Be careful not to overcook the peas as they will quickly turn mushy and difficult for your fish to eat.
Continue this diet for one week.

Food can sometimes cause this problem

It is well worth reviewing the diet of your goldfish as this can sometimes be the cause of your fish swimming sideways. What causes the problem is when your fish swallows excess air when he is feeding. The excess air gets into the gastrointestinal tract and then the duct to the swim bladder. Therefore affecting the buoyancy and balance of your goldfish.

If you think that this could be causing your goldfish to be swimming sideways, it is best to try soaking the food in water for a few moments before popping in the tank. Alternatively, try a different type of food such as a product that is a sinking or neutrally buoyant one. This could alleviate the problem.

Infections cause fish swimming sideways

If your goldfish has an infection, the swim bladder can become inflamed by either parasites or a bacterial infection. If you suspect this, it is best to seek the advice of your veterinarian who will be able to prescribe antibiotics to quickly resolve the problem.

What other reasons why my goldfish is swimming sideways?

There are sometimes other reasons why one of the organs in the goldfish’s abdomen has become enlarged and is now affecting the swim bladders.

There is the possibility that cysts have formed on the kidneys or fatty deposits have accumulated on the liver. In female goldfish, the cause can be egg binding. If you suspect any of these it is best to take your goldfish to your veterinarian.

Occasionally, damage to the swim bladder can be caused by your goldfish swimming into an object in the tank or getting into a fight.

What else can I do for my goldfish?

There are a few measures that you can take that will not harm your goldfish – whatever is causing them to swim sideways. These include –

Keep the water in the tank exceptionally clean and at the correct temperature
Lower the depth of the water and reduce the flow of water so that it is easier for your goldfish to swim around.
Add a tiny amount of aquarium salt to the water as this will help prevent parasites and microorganisms.

If your goldfish has part of his body exposed to the air for lengths at a time, it would be a good idea to apply some stress coat conditioner. This will maintain your fish’s slimy scales and prevent them from drying out. Applying the conditioner will also prevent any sore or red spots from developing.

How can I prevent swim bladder problems in the future?

Prevention is better than cure and there are 4 steps to ensure that your goldfish doesn’t get swim bladder problems again:-

Keep the tank really clean to avoid infections and regularly change the water.
Keep the water at the correct temperature as this will help your goldfish digest his food and thus prevent constipation.
Feed your goldfish quality foods switch to different foods if your goldfish is taking air in with his food.
Monitor how much food your goldfish is getting and avoid over-eating.

Top 12 Aggressive Cichlids (With Pictures)

Trevor Blog, Uncategorized June 24, 2023November 27, 2023aggressive cichlids, aggressive fish, cichlids

Aggressive Cichlids have often been unfairly stigmatized due to a lack of understanding about their behavior, care requirements, and compatible tank mates.

In this article we will provide a summary of a selection of popular cichlids considered to have an aggressive nature.

Our hope is that we can shed some light on the least risky approach to keeping this species.

The fish we feature are, by nature, aggressive and for that reason should only be kept by aquarium enthusiasts who are willing to put the effort into learning about the needs of these fish and to set up their tanks to be suitable for housing them.

By taking the correct steps, the risks of potential upsets will be avoided.

There are certain aggressive cichlids that simply will never be acceptable to be kept in a community tank due to their excessive natural aggressions, whilst there will be others that can live with tankmates so long fish keepers understand what considerations are required.

Why Keep Aggressive Cichlids?

Aquarium enthusiasts keep aggressive cichlids for the curiosity and perhaps the exhilaration of watching their behaviors. Watching their fish defending territory, breeding, hunting food and challenging one another, all add to the lure of this type of fish.

In addition, many aggressive species of fish have spectacular colors together with an “attitude”. spiking the curiosity of enthusiasts.

I remember one of my first experiences as a teenager, being fascinated by the behavior of a pair of Oscars kept by a friend.

He would tease the fish by holding a live cockroach up to the tank. The fish would be watching intently the squirming insect and its excitement was evident. My friend would then drop the live cockroach into the tank.

The roach skirted across the water surface. The fish immediately switched into hunting mode and tracked the cockroach. Within a split second, an enormous, frenzied splash!

The roach was engulfed! The fish then swam around with it half protruding from its mouth, proudly showing off his prize.

How to Reduce Aggressiveness in Cichlids?

The following steps can reduce aggression in fish:

Provide proper tank conditions: Make sure the tank has the water parameters (Temperature, pH, hardness, flow) to prevent stress-induced aggression.
Add hiding places: Incorporate extra hiding spots in the aquarium to give fish a refuge from potential predators and bullies, reducing their stress levels. It also permits more areas for fish to establish their territories.
Provide ample space: Give fish enough space to live comfortably. Overcrowding can lead to aggression. To separate aggressive individuals, consider dividing the tank.
Maintain water quality: Regularly part change the water to maintain optimal conditions. Use a suitable biological filter. Poor water quality can contribute to stress and aggression.
Use tall plants: Plants create a natural environment and provide hiding spots, helping to ease aggression.
Spread the food: Ensure food is offered around the tank, some floating and some sinking, when feeding aggressive fish in a community tank. Dropping food in the flow of power heads will help spread it around the tank.
Remove Bullies: If necessary, remove troublesome fish.
Keep fish in schools: some species benefit from being kept in harmonious groups where the pecking order has been established and they feel secure with others of their own kind.

These steps can help minimize aggression, but it’s important to monitor fish behavior and make adjustments as necessary.

12 Popular Aggressive Cichlids Fish Kept by Aquarists

Peacock Bass Cichlid

The Peacock Bass Cichlids look stunning in an aquarium. They display iridescent patches in blue, gold, black, and sometimes green or red colors. Peacocks are found in South America and are often sort after by anglers for sport fishing in South Florida,

Peacocks possess unpredictable nature. They are territorial creatures requiring ample hiding spaces due to their size.

Being predators, they are prone to eating any fish that can fit in their mouths. The best suited tankmates are semi-aggressive species such as Green Terrors, Oscars, and Zebra Tilapia.

Peacocks grow large and require a large tank to accommodate them! Provide plenty of hiding spaces, providing choice for individuals to claim a territory of their own.

Jack Dempsey

The Jack Dempsey cichlid is one of the most aggressive fish kept by fish enthusiasts. They originate from Central America’s slow-moving freshwater rivers

The fish was named after the 1920’s boxer, Jack Dempsey, because of its fighting appearance. Jack Demseys tend to chase, bite, and bully smaller and more vulnerable fish.

Dempseys are a beautiful fish to keep in an aquarium. They are considered quite intelligent and will interact with their owners. Adult fish display dark purple-gray background contrasted with shimmering light blue, green, and gold spangle spots.

Whether kept with other fish or on its own, provide this species with a large tank (minimum 80 gallons) and plenty of places for fish to hide. Adult fish grow to 7 – 8 inches.

Despite its hostile behavior, the Jack Dempsey can be housed with other larger species that also have a semi-aggressive nature. Oscars make excellent tankmates – keep more than one to avoid bullying.

With correct care and appropriate tankmates, this species of fish is easy to keep. Their unique appearance and personalities, make them an appealing choice for aquarists seeking an aggressive freshwater fish.

Poor Man’s Tropheus

The Poor Man’s Tropheus (Neetroplus nematopus) is a highly aggressive cichlid species found in Lake Malawi in East Africa. These aggressive freshwater fish can kill fish larger than itself. It displays violent behavior towards all other fish, particularly during breeding.

It is best to keep them in pairs only. Some fish keepers have had success keeping them with other fish, but most prefer housing them in pairs or as solitary specimens.

This species eats algae from rocks in the lakes they inhabit. Feed a spirulina based flake and pellet.

While not super colorful, their colors intensify during breeding.

Providing territories, in the form of caves and decorations, in the aquarium for them to defend can help reduce their aggression.

It is advisable to only keep them with fish that can hold their own against them. If kept as a single species, keep 12 – 15 specimens in a tank with at least 65 gallons.

Green Texas Cichlid

The Green Texas Cichlid is a hybrid developed by crossing the Flowerhorn Cichlid and Texas Cichlid. It is a sparkly and beautifully speckled fish making it an attractive fish for the aquarium.

The Green Texas Cichlid is known to eat fish that can fit in its mouth, making it unsuitable for peaceful community tanks.

It displays a highly aggressive attitude and temperament, especially during feeding time.

While Texas Cichlids can be kept alone, it is best to keep them with other cichlids or house them with fish of similar aggression levels that are large enough to avoid being eaten, such as Red-tailed sharks, Silver Dollars, Oscars, Plecos, Giant Gourami and Giant Danios.

They enjoy dimly lit aquariums with roots or décor that resemble roots and caves. Texas Cichlids will uproot plants in the tank, so floating plants would be better. Their tanks need to be at least 50 gallons.

Umbee Cichlid

The Umbee Cichlid is an extremely aggressive fish that must be kept on its own. It will attack and try to kill any fish in its territory.

It grows to around 2 feet long and aggressively defends its fry during breeding.

The Umbee is a top predator in its natural habitat, it primarily preys on other fish but also consumes crustaceans, frogs, and small mammals.

In terms of color, appearance, aggression, and personality; the Umbee Cichlids rival other South American cichlids. Fish enthusiasts enjoy this species because of its high intelligence and how it shows interest in their surroundings.

With proper management of their aggression and other requirements, theUmbee are not difficult to care for. A super large custom tank or pond is necessary for long-term housing.

Wolf Cichlid

The highly territorial and aggressive Wolf Cichlid (also known as Dovii) should only be kept with other large fish that can hold their own against the Wolf Cichlid.

This species becomes very territorial and aggressive particularly when breeding. Therefore during times of breeding they are best kept as bonded pairs.

The wolf cichlid is a predatory species and will hunt down and eat smaller fish. They are adapted to have a large mouth strong jaw bone and large teeth, all meant for catching and eating prey.

The fish looks menacing, with its solid body, and imposing eye shape. It comes in ranging colors from yellow to silver.

If kept alone in a large tank, this fish is easy to care for and makes a wonderful pet. It is a very alert fish, responsive to its environment and showing great intelligence. Wolf cichlids will even interact with its owners.

They are not suitable for community aquariums and require specialized care.

Convict Cichlid

As juveniles, the Convict Cichlid, is a peaceful fish which seeks the security of being in a group. As this fish matures it will bond with a mate and, like many other cichlid species, becomes territorial. It is known for its unprovoked aggression, biting and chasing behaviors.

When defending their territories, they can overpower and attack more powerful fish until death. For that reason they are not recommended for keeping in community aquariums.

Provide a tank with plenty of space for this fish to move about and for its territory. Fill the tank with plenty of hiding spaces to help reduce aggression.

Providing ample hiding places in the tank can help reduce aggression.

Among aggressive cichlids, convicts are regarded as a good choice for beginner fish keepers.

Convict cichlids are popular due to their easy care and coloration – striking blue-black striped pattern on a grey-blue background.

Red Devil Cichlid

Red Devil Cichlids are very aggressive territorial freshwater fish. They will attack other fish in the tank, including other Red Devils.

They are energetic fish that are quite destructive in the aquarium, moving around décor and destroying aquarium plants. For some fish keepers, this adds to their interest in this entertaining species.

Red Devils are very popular with fish enthusiasts. They have boundless personalities and great intelligence.

Red Devils will interact with people, sometimes approaching the front of the tank as if asking for treats.

The best tankmates for this species include other Red Devils, and other cichlid species with a similar personality and aggressiveness – species such as Convict cichlids, Jaguar cichlids and Jack Demseys.

Jaguar Cichlid

Aquarists keep the Jaguar Cichlid for its striking coloration and predatory aggressive behavior. These fish grow large, up to 3.5 pounds and 16+ inches long. Males will grow larger than females. They therefore require a very large tank to accommodate them – minimum of 100 gallons for one pair.

It gets its name from its likeness to a big predatory wild cat and displays a similar mean attitude. Jaguar cichlids have striking patterns and bright colors.

Jaguars are predatory fish and will eat smaller fish in the tank. Only match them with other Jugar cichlids or other species of cichlid that can hold their own against them, such as Demsey cichlids and Red Devils.

Jaguars engage in violent fights as they battle over territory. If breeding this fish, keep them in a tank of their own as a bonded breeding pair. Both male and female should be of similar size.

When starting out with this species, populate the tank with two to three juvenile pairs. They will establish a pecking order and grow together in the tank. Don’t introduce new Jaguar cichlids into the tank with already established adult fish. It will like result in the new fish being killed.

Once established with a suitable tank, Jaguar Cichlids are easy to keep and will live up to fifteen years.

Bumblebee Cichlid

Bumblebee cichlids (Pseudotropheus crabro) are territorial and aggressive. They establish, and fiercely defend, their territories making them unsuitable for communal tanks.

Bumblebee cichlids are particularly aggressive towards other Bumblebee males. It is best to only keep only one male in the tank, with around six females.

Male Bumblebees are also aggressive towards other cichlid species. Unless the tankmates can stand up to the aggressiveness of this fish, they will be bullied and harassed.

Bumblebees look stunning in an aquarium with their yellow base color with darker brown vertical stripes, resembling a bumblebee.

They grow to around 6.3 inches, with males being larger and more brightly colored than females.

An interesting fact is that they are also known to eat parasites from other catfish species.

Acai Cichlid

Acei cichlids (Pseudotropheus Acei), or Yellow Tailed Cichlid, are generally peaceful fish and can be housed in a community aquarium. However, these fish can become aggressive when stressed or during breeding.

Acei cichlids are a species from Lake Malawi in Africa. They typically grow to around 6 inches (15 cm) in length.

Aceis have quick and relentless energy reserves, and may chase and nip at other fish’s fins for extended periods.

When being fed, they can become aggressive as they compete for the food, whilst at the same time be defending their territories.

Aceis may not be a large fish, but they can still cause great damage to other fish if aggressive.

They like a moderate to high water flow and a well-oxygenated tank. Give them a balanced diet that includes both plant and animal foods.

Ensure the aquarium has plenty of rocky decor, providing hiding places and areas for establishing territories.

Keep this species in groups as this will show off their natural behaviours. Keep one male for several females.

With the right care this species can live up to 8 years.

Jewel Cichlid

When provoked or hungry Jewel Cichlids are know to be very aggressive. They will nip at other fish or engage in intense fights resulting in injury or even death of the other fish in the tank. This aggression is very evident when these fish are hungry and battle for food.

Jewel cichlids are one of the most aggressive cichlid species kept in aquariums. If kept in a pair in a community tank, they will unlikely tolerate any other fish that ventures in their territory.

Therefore it is best to keep these fish as a single fish species with plenty of space for them to establish and defend their own territories. A 40 gallon tank would house two pairs adequately.

The Jewel Cichlid has very attractive colors, especially during times of breeding when their colors are heightened. The head and stomach turn a fiery red and the scales on their sides and gill plates sparkle like blue-green diamonds.

Why Do Aquarists Keep Aggressive Cichlids?

Many fish keepers gravitate towards keeping aggressive freshwater fish because of their stunning visual qualities and the way these fish contribute to the dynamic ecosystem within an aquarium that has been set up right for the nature of these fish.

They are drawn to the allure of colorful hostile fish and have successfully integrated them into thriving aquariums.

Many aggressive cichlid species, demonstrate to be very intelligent and even interact with their owners.

By understanding their behaviors and meeting their specific care requirements, aggression can be managed effectively, allowing for a captivating and harmonious aquatic environment.

Final Thoughts on Aggressive Cichlids

Cichlids are widespread and very popular with Aquarists. In most cases these fish are easy to keep once they are well understood. With correct care, the right tank habitat, careful consideration of tankmates and a suitable sized tank, aggressive cichlids will thrive and entertain you for years.

We have an article on Aggressive Freshwater Fish where we feature Aggressive Cichlids not covered in this article. If interested in hearing what we have to say about Piranhas and Oscars check it out HERE.

12 Aggressive Freshwater Fish for Your Tank: With Pictures!

Trevor Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Freshwater Fish (info and tips), Info and Tips, Tropical Freshwater Fish (Care Guides), Uncategorized June 16, 2023November 27, 2023aggressive fish, Aggressive Freshwater Fish

In this guide, we will delve into the world of aggressive freshwater fish, exploring their special traits, tank set up, habitat, tankmates and appropriate care requirements.

We’ll also help you with being able to decrease aggressive behaviours in community tanks.

Factors That Affect Aquarium Fish Aggression

Aggressive behaviors can vary quite considerably between fish. With some fish the behavior is inherit, whilst with others aggressiveness may come about when provoked, or when the tank habitat is not appropriate for them.

Before purchasing aggressive fish, it is necessary to understand the requirements of each species that you plan to introduce to your tank.

Aggression During Breeding

Aggression in some fish is only evident during breeding times. A primal instinct kicks-in. It becomes a priority at all costs for the fish to establish a territory, fight off rivals, gain a mate and to protect young.

In many cases, juveniles are placid and get along peacefully in a community tank and with others of the same species. They only develop the aggressive behaviors on sexual maturity.

With consideration of feeding requirements, places to hide within a tank, compatible tank-mates and an appropriately sized tank, can all reduce aggressive behavior of adult fish wanting to breed.

Provocation Causing Aggression

Larger territorial fish, such as Arowana fish, require extra large tanks if they are to coinhabit with other fish species.

These large fish need room to swim and feel relaxed. When they are forced to be in a confined space they will be more aggressive towards fish that come close to it.

This runs true with many of the smaller aggressive freshwater fish too. Never overcrowd their tanks and provide plenty of places for them to establish their territories and for them to hide if necessary. If they feel stressed they may chase and nip other fish.

Tankmates that are domineering will also cause fish with aggressive tendencies to feel threatened. This provocation can become a problem with anxious fish lashing out in self-preservation. Understanding which tankmates coexist best with your aggressive species will reduce aggression.

Some species like to be in a school as this gives them a sense of security having friends around them. Species such as Tiger Barbs are less aggressive towards one another and towards other fish in the tank if kept in groups of five or more.

In addition, when only two or three are kept together, the dominant fish may be inclined to bully the lesser fish.

Aggressive Freshwater Fish Are Usually Carnivorous

Carnivorous species of freshwater fish will eat pretty much any fish, invertebrate or mollusc that can fit in its mouth. By nature, many are ambush fish, keeping hidden, then darting out to eat prey. Piranhas will do this in groups, making them an even bigger threat in a tank with other smaller fish.

Slow moving fish, and fish with long fins, are an easy target. It is better to keep fish in the tank who can keep out of the way of carnivorous fish. Ensure plenty of hiding spots as well as room for these fish to keep their distances.

Feeding Time Leads to Aggressive Freshwater Fish

When food is presented to fish, often their true colors show. Larger aggressive fish dominate and will scoff the food before other fish get their share.

In many cases, these bossy fish are generally peaceful in the tank. It is simply the excitement at feeding time that provokes aggressiveness. Large adult plecos are an example of a fish that can become bossy at feeding time.

To reduce the aggressive behavior of fish during feeding time it better to spread the food around the tank, allowing some to float and some to sink. This way the fish spread out and all have an opportunity to eat.

12 Popular Aggressive Freshwater Fish

Tiger Barbs

When kept alone, Tiger Barbs can terrorize and potentially kill smaller fish. They tend to nip at fins and bully more passive species, such as guppies, goldfish, and betta fish. This behavior becomes more intense when Tiger Barbs are kept in smaller groups.

Tiger Barbs thrive in water temperatures between 77-86°F. They will show less aggressive behavior when kept at optimal water temperature.

These fish do better when kept in groups of five or more. Individuals kept on their own are vulnerable and may feel threatened, which can lead to them being aggressive towards tank-mates. Also, in a group the pecking order has been established and the bullies amongst them can’t target single fish as they may if there were only a couple of barbs in the tank.

To reduce aggressive behavior in Tiger Barbs try the following:

Provide able swimming space with plenty of places for fish to move and to also hide.
Don’t place in a community tank with long finned passive fish.
Keep a group of 5 or more barbs.
Monitor their behavior and remove the aggressive individuals.
Keep optimal water conditions.

Gourami fishes

Male gourami fish, can become confrontational and exhibit fin-nipping behavior when threatened or defending their territory. They are often aggressive towards smaller fish.

Originating from Southeast Asia, gouramis are adaptable to slow-moving streams and can survive in stagnant water. They prefer a water temperature of 77°F and pH 6.7.

A tank with plenty of aquarium plants will help reduce stress on the fish. Anxious gouramis can become aggressive.

Among Gourami species, Dwarf Gourami, Honey Gourami, Sparkling Gourami, and Chocolate Gouramis are generally more peaceful.

Here are some tips to reduce aggressive behavior in Gouramis:

Keep males as individuals. Females can be kept in groups.
Consider using a tank divider to keep gouramis away from other fish.
Add ornaments or plants to provide additional hiding places.
Reduce stress and anxiety by giving gouramis space, ensure water conditions are optimal, and don’t house them with other aggressive species that may threaten them.
Keep the smaller species of gouramis in a community aquarium.

Cichlids

There are numerous species of cichlids from different regions of the world. Many are known for their hostility, territorial behavior, and predatory nature towards other fish and invertebrates.

There are peaceful species of cichlids that do well in community tanks, however, some of these peaceful fish become fearlessly aggressive when they want to breed.

African cichlids in particular are known for their aggression, driven by their instinct to defend there territory during breeding.

Many cichlids are predators and will hunt down smaller fish. Others can be aggressive at feeding time as they compete for their meal.

Common aggressive cichlids kept by fish enthusiasts include:

Jewel Cichlid: with its stunning breeding colors of red with flecked green-blue flanks and gill covers.

Convict Cichlid: a territorial fish that feeds on worms, insects, and algae with black stripes.

Wolf Cichlid: built with a heavy body and strong jaw for hunting prey. This fish looks menacing and should only be kept with other large cichlids.

Umbee Cichlid: A huge fish, growing to 2 feet long. Not suitable to be kept with other species as it is a real hostile fish.

Poor Man’s Tropheus: an aggressive vegetarian that eats algae from rocks and will take on fish larger than itself.

Green Texus Cichlid: a hybrid cichlid that will eat any fish that can fit it its mouth.

Bumblebee Cichlid: brightly colored yellow and black aggressive species, particularly the males.

Red Devil Cichlid: a destructive fish with plenty of personality that will attack its own kind.

Acai Cichlid: a smaller species with abundant energy to defend territory and provoke other fish.

Jaguar Cichlid: A large fish that gets its name from its cat like demeanour and coloration.

Jack Demsey: named after a 1920’s boxer for its ferociousness and looks.

We delve deeper with these aggressive cichlids in another article.

Puffer

Pufferfish are known for their powerful bites and volatile temperaments, making them a threat to peaceful community fish in close proximity.

They have a tendency to nip fins and can display outright aggression or predatory behavior. Due to their tendency to eat other fish and invertebrates, it is not recommended to house pufferfish with them.

Pufferfish can be found in warm and temperate regions worldwide. They have thick, often spiky skin and fused teeth, featuring a beak-like structure with a central split in each jaw.

While some pufferfish can grow up to 93 cm (2 feet) in length, many species are relatively small. It’s important to note that numerous pufferfish species are toxic, containing a highly poisonous substance called tetraodontoxin, which is concentrated in their organs.

Despite the risks associated with consuming pufferfish, they are still utilized as food in certain cultures.

Among freshwater aquariums, the Amazon Pufferfish is considered one of the more docile pufferfish species.

Pea Puffer

The Pea Puffer (Carinotetraodon travancoricus), also named the Dwarf Mini Puffer Fish, is one of the tiniest fish on Earth. They may appear cute, but their aggression, particularly among males, should not be underestimated.

Despite their miniature size, they will attempt to bite other fish in a community tank. It is recommended that they are best kept alone in a small aquarium. You can keep up to six pea puffers in a 20 gallon tank with plenty of shelter without other tankmates.

If putting them with tankmates, select species that can evade the nipping. Kuhli loaches, danios, neon tetras and cherry shrimp all make suitable tankmates. Ensure there is plenty of places for fish to move as well as hiding places for fish to retreat to.

Hobbyists enjoy this oddball species of fish as it has an unusual swimming manner, like a hovering helicopter. They are courageous and intelligent.

African leaf fish

The African Leaf Fish, also known as the Leopard Bush Fish, is not aggressive but highly predatory, consuming anything that can fit into its mouth. Despite its small size (3-4 inches), it can quickly eliminate all of the smaller fish in the tank.

This species originate from central Africa inhabiting pools, swamps, creeks and slow-moving rivers. They like to sit in amongst vegetation along the river banks.

The African Leaf Fish is a peaceful tank member which will get along very well with other fish species, so long as these fish are not small enough to eat. They shouldn’t he housed with other aggressive freshwater fish as they will easily be bullied.

Ideal tankmates are peaceful fish that are large enough not to be eaten, such as bala sharks, red-tail barbs, and silver dollars.

Smaller fish such as neon tetras will likely become prey if kept with this species.

Arowana

Arowanas are fiercely aggressive and do not tolerate other arowanas. The Australian arowana is considered to be the most aggressive, often killing all other fish in its tank. Silver and black arowanas are comparatively less aggressive.

In the wild, arowanas prey on fish, frogs, insects, and even larger animals like snakes and rabbits.

They have sleek bodies, reflective scales, and come in various colors and fin types. They move gracefully on the water’s surface.

Some color variations, such as the Silver arowana are valuable, with a price tag up to $25,000! Arowanas are a good luck in certain Asian cultures. They are believed to take on the illnesses of their owners.

Due to their value and aggression, most fish keepers house arowanas alone in large tanks and avoid community tanks. Due to their skittish nature Arowanas require at least 60 gallons to freely move about and a suitable lid as they will jump.

Black Wolffish

The Black Wolffish is a highly aggressive predator native to South America. It is a true predator and is a real threat to smaller fish. The aggression of this fish becomes even more so as it matures.

Usually, this fish keeps to itself. However, during times of breeding it will bond with a mate. The Wolf fish can grow to 28 inches, therefor requiring a large tank with relatively low water flow.

Suitable tankmates for this species include bichirs, silver dollars, catfish, peacock bass cichlids, and other large, fast-moving fish. Ensure there is plenty of room in the tank and plenty of hiding places.

When looking at the Wolffish you notice it’s large teeth and giant mouths. It is a true ambush predator, swiftly darting out from cover to consume its prey.

Betta Fish/Siamese Fighting Fish

Betta fish, also known as Siamese Fighting Fish, display aggression through flaring their gills and fins, charging, and biting.

Wild bettas are carnivorous and largely feed on insects and their larvae. Male bettas are known for their fighting behavior. They will fight with other males, damaging their fins when bitten.

Females are less aggressive and can be kept in groups so long as there is shelter for them to escape to if need be.

Bettas are highly popular due to their beauty, intelligent character, and ability to thrive in small spaces.

These small territorial fish will defend their territory from other bettas. Long-finned bettas are generally slow and not a great threat to fast-moving fish, but they may nip the tails of other long-finned fish like guppies and goldfish.

Providing plenty of space in the aquarium will prevent bettas from feeling threatened and this will reduce their aggression. Betta fish can coexist with other fish species in tanks.

It is important to avoid housing betta fish with semi-aggressive fish like Tiger Barbs, as these species are known to nip the long fins of bettas.

Plecostomus

Plecostomus, or plecos, are normally non-aggressive and prefer to hide in a community aquarium. Plecos may display semi-aggressive behavior if their needs are not adequately met.

This can be during times of competition for food, breeding, and battles over territory.

Juvenile fish are not a problem in a community tank. However, plecos grow quickly. One challenge with plecos is their potential growth to a large size, ranging from 12 to 24 inches, which can exceed the capacity of the aquarium.

Meeting their nutritional needs will help prevent plecos from potentially annoying other fish. When a large pleco aggressively feeds, it can intimidate other fish in the tank.

To ensure there is no competition over food, feed plecos plenty of algae wafers. Spread these around the tank.

Plecos will find places to hide out in the tank. Provide plenty of driftwood, hollows and caves large enough for them to fit inside.

Oscar

Oscars (Astronotus ocellatus) are very attractive aquarium fish with many new color ranges. They interact with their owners and will even take food from the hand.

However, they do have a reputation for being fierce, dominant, and hostile fish. Oscars are aggressive towards other fish and tank decor.

This species grows up to one foot in size and requires a minimum of 55 gallons of water for one individual fish.

Oscars are destructive in the tank, showing aggression towards décor and equipment such as heaters and filters in the tank. It is best to use aquarium sumps where the aquarium equipment can be kept away from Oscars.

They do engage in “jaw” or “lip” locking when battling each other. Oscars will also nip at other fish and even human hands.

Oscars do best in an aquarium with other oscars as opposed to other fish species. If keeping them with other fish species, ensure they have similar tank requirements and have a temperament and size to match the oscars. For example, they should not be housed with African Cichlids due to their different needs.

Oscars love to eat and will produce quite a bit of tank wastes. Water changes and a large aquarium filter are necessary to keep these fish healthy.

Keep oscars in at least a pair or more if you have the room. Having three oscar fish isn’t ideal as one may be picked on if the other two pair off.

Rainbow shark

The Rainbow shark is a hardy active and easy to keep aquarium fish that is very poular amongst enthusiasts. Despite its name, this fish from tropical Thailand is not a real shark.

Rainbow sharks are not considered to be as aggressive as some of the species described above. Their semi-aggressive nature is generally only with adult fish towards other fish that inhabit the bottom of the tank.

It is best to select tankmates that can defend themselves but have a peaceful nature, such as Barbs and Danios. Rainbow sharks may display increased aggression towards other fish with a similar body type, like Rainbowfish.

Rainbow sharks are solitary. In a community aquarium it is better to keep only one shark. Provide ample space for the shark to minimize conflicts in the aquarium with other fish.

Rainbow sharks are easy to keep and with the right conditions will grow to 6 inches and live for 4-6 years. There is also an albino version of the Rainbow Shark sold in aquarium stores.

Piranha

There are over 60 species of Piranhas in the wild. They are carnivorous fish found in South American rivers and lakes, having a reputation for having razor-toothed jaws.

Piranhas are popular with aquarium hobbyists who keep them for their curiosity and aggressive nature. These fish grow to 12 inches and are best kept in groups.

Piranhas are attracted to the scent of blood. They are primarily scavengers, but can also hunt in groups, ambushing and chasing down their prey.

Juvenile piranhas tend to gather in groups for protection against predators. As they mature, they can become cannibalistic, attacking their own kind.

Keep piranhas with fish of similar size and temperament to avoid aggression. Piranhas can be skittish if startled and may hide in the tank.

Within a school of piranhas, a clear hierarchy forms, with the largest and most aggressive adult fish being dominant.

Ideally, house them in a 200 gallon tank where they have plenty of room to move. Small aquariums result in small unhappy fish.

Aggressive Freshwater Fish

Aggressive Freshwater Fish During Breeding

Often it is only during times of breeding that fish with an aggressive nature show their aggressiveness. Certain species become highly aggressive and protective, isolating themselves to defend their partner, nest, and fry. This behavior is very common in cichlids and snakehead species.

By understanding their behaviors and meeting their specific care requirements, aggression can be managed effectively, allowing for a captivating and harmonious aquatic environment.

After successful pairing, breeding fish generally reduce their territory and gather around their eggs or fry to protect them from other predatory fish in the aquarium.

Several of the African cichlids will brood their eggs and fry in their mouths, adding to the alure of these fish.

Feeding Aggressive Freshwater Fish

Aggressive freshwater fish are known for their fast swimming and voracious appetite. They may eat other fish, even stealing food from the mouths and gills of their tank mates.

To minimize competition during feeding, offer a diverse range of floating or sinking food and distribute it throughout the tank using filter outflow or powerheads.

Head Butting or Biting Behavior

Fish aggressively attacks another by head-butting or biting its head. This aggressive encounter can cause timid fish to hide for extended periods. With some species, like oscars battling fish will lock jaws with one-another.

Final Thoughts – Aggressive Freshwater Fish

The world of freshwater aquarium fish offers a diverse range of aggressive species that captivate with their colors and unique behaviors. From the dominant Red Devil Cichlid to the predatory instincts of the Piranha, these fish bring interest and beauty to the aquarium.

By carefully considering tank setup, fish habitat and nature, aquarists can create thriving environments that showcase the captivating nature of these aggressive freshwater fish.

It is a privilege to be able to witness the remarkable diversity of nature within the confines of your own home aquarium.

To discover more about aggressive freshwater fish check out our article on the 12 Top Aggressive Cichlids.

Silver Sharks Unleashed: The Complete Bala Shark Care Guide!

Trevor Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Care Guides, Freshwater Aquarium Sharks (Care Guides), Info and Tips, Tropical Freshwater (guides) June 15, 2023November 27, 2023Aquarium Sharks, bala shark, sharks, silver shark

This comprehensive Bala Shark Care Guide is designed to provide detailed insights into the proper care and maintenance of these remarkable aquatic species.

Bala sharks (Balantiocheilos melanopterus), are a stunning freshwater fish that has caught the attention of many aquarium enthusiasts. They are native to the streams and rivers of South East Asia and can be found in a range of habitas from swift-flowing waters to large rivers and natural lakes.

Whether you are experienced with keeping aquarium fish or a newbie considering adding your first Bala shark to your collection, tis comprehensive Bala shark care guide will equip you with what you need to know to ensure the well-being and success with keeping this awesome fish.

Bala Shark Care Guide

Bala sharks, also known as Silver Bala, Silver Shark and Tricolored Minnows; are not actual sharks but were named because of their torpedo-shaped bodies, triangle dorsal fin, and rigid fins, resembling a shark. Bala sharks inhabit freshwater environments.

Description

A popular fish among hobbyists, it has a silver body with black margins on its dorsal, caudal, anal, and pelvic fins.

The Bala has yellowish striped fins with black lines, and its ventral fins are small and sometimes monocolored.

It has a grey body with slightly uneven gradients, with closely spaced scales that allow for effortless movement through the water. Bala sharks have large eyes allowing it to cruise around the tank and survey all the goings on.

How Large Can the Bala Shark Grow?

In the wild, Bala sharks are considered to be rare. The fish available in aquarium shops are typically bred in fish farms.

They can reach lengths of up to 1 foot or 13 inches, making this species very large for the average home aquarium. These “sharks” require spacious tanks to accommodate their size.

Fish shops sell juvenile Bala sharks that are usually around 3 – 4 inches long. These fish, if fed right in a good sized tank, can grow up to six inches in one season.

The Bala shark is a schooling fish and are much happier when kept in a group. For that reason, people keeping this species will need a tank to accommodate many individuals.

Origin and Distribution of the Bala Shark

Once prolific in Southeast Asia, the Bala shark has experienced a great decline in its numbers in the wild. There are concerns that it has become extinct in many areas where it used to be common.

Today it is a threatened species. It has been on the IUCN Red List since 1996.

Habitat degradation, environmental changes like river damming, over-fishing by the aquaculture industry, and increasing water pollution are all factors that have contributed to this species decline in population.

Bala Shark Care Guide: Ideal Habitat and Aquarium Tank Size

Ideal Habitat:

Specific conditions for their ideal habitat.

Water sensitivity: Sensitive to water conditions and temperature, prone to Itch (white spot disease) and bacterial infections in high temperatures.
They will jump: Tightly covering the fish tank is important as Bala Sharks have a inclination to jump when disturbed.
Swimming space: Decorate the tank with large, secure plants around the edges, leaving plenty of space in the center for swimming.
Outdoors: Ensure warm temperatures throughout the winter and provide a sheltered area from the elements. Alternately, keep them in ponds during the summer and in a heated aquarium during winter.
Well-oxygenated water: This is essential, and a circulation pump can be used in moderation to simulate a flowing environment like what they would have in their natural habitat.

Aquarium Tank Size

When keeping a number of individuals in the tank it is crucial that you provide a spacious area for them to swim and interact. Bala sharks are very active fish who will swim about the tank quickly. Here are some points to note:

Require a tank size of at least 100 gallons.
Include aquarium décor for sharks to hide in amongst.
Being excellent swimmers accustomed to fast-flowing water, they should be housed in a longer tank, rather than a deeper tank.
Maintain regular water flow by using flow pumps to create currents and increase oxygen levels.
Ensure the tank has a top glass cover to prevent fish jumping out.
As they grow larger, they will need to be moved to larger aquariums.

Bala Shark Care Guide: Maintaining a Healthy Aquarium Environment

Bala shark are a hardy freshwater fish species and their care is relatively simple. Here are some suggestions to keeping them healthy:

Clean Aquarium: Regularly clean the aquarium and ensure water chemical levels and temperatures remain stable for optimal conditions. Bala sharks are vulnerable to diseases if the water becomes polluted. Maintain clean water with a suitable biological filter to mimic their natural habitat.
Fresh and Nutritious Food: Provide them with a quality balanced commercial food. Add variety with the addition of live foods.
Monitor Behavior: Erratic behavior like swimming between themselves, playing dead, or crashing into glass walls may indicate that aquarium parameters are off or they lack sufficient swimming space.

Unless your setup has a large sump tank and efficient biological filter, regular cleaning and water changes are necessary to maintain good water quality. Performing partial water changes every week or two helps remove accumulated waste and maintain optimal water conditions for the fish.

Bala Shark Water Parameters

Maintain appropriate water conditions for your Bala Shark. The recommended pH range is between 6.5 and 8.

Aim for a water hardness of 12 dGH. Set the temperature to between 76°F and 80°F.

Regular water testing will ensure that the environment is right for these fish, avoiding health issues.

Temperament of the Bala Shark

Although Bala sharks get big, they are mostly peaceful with other fish in the tank and rarely eat smaller fish, unless tiny the fish are tiny fry.

Balas are very outgoing, and will spend much of their time interacting with one another and exploring the aquarium. They will establish a hierarchy with the other Bala sharks in the group. It is recommended to keep a group of five or more specimens to prevent harassment of subdominant members. As the fish reaches sexual maturity this behavior become more apparent.

When fish are first introduced to an aquarium, they may initially be timid and easily startled. They may seek to hide in amongst plants and decor. Once they have settled in, the Bala sharks will actively swim about the tank, liking the open spaces.

This species of fish will jump, and accidents may happen if the aquarium doesn’t have a secure cover.

A common injury to fish that have been recovered after jumping out of the tank is the loss of the slime coat over the eye. Treatment should be provided to restore the slime coat eyes.

Balas can be quite greedy eaters and can scoff food presented before slower fish get a chance to eat their share. Other than that, they are generally peaceful and do not pose significant challenges.

Suitable Silver Shark Tankmates

Bala sharks have a peaceful nature. They usually get along well with other calm natured and similarly-sized fish species that can endure their active swimming behavior. To prevent conflicts and undue stress, aggressive or territorial fish, like aggressive African Cichlids, should be avoided as tankmates.

Juvenile Bala sharks are no problem at all in a community tank. They can coexist peacefully with other aquarium fish. However, as they mature into adulthood, they may begin to view smaller fish like neon tetras as food.

They are a schooling fish that thrive in groups of six or more. When kept alone or in small numbers, Balas tend to be skittish. Dominant individuals may bully others. For a harmonious environment keep at least four Bala sharks in a mixed community of fish.

Avoid keeping Balas with invertebrates such as shrimp or snails. These creatures are part of their natural diet. However, if you have a snail problem, Balas can be helpful in keeping their numbers down.

Balas can intimidate slow-moving fish in the tank due to their active energetic nature. Ensure you keep these fish in a large (preferably long) tank that can accommodate adult Bala sharks. By giving them plenty of room to swim tank-mates will be able to keep away from them.

When fist introducing Bala sharks to an aquarium, they will initially be shy. But if introduced to the tank in a school of five or six, they will gain confidence from the group and quickly settle in. You will be able to observe them shoaling together, forming bonds while foraging for food.

Once a school of Bala sharks is established, it is not a good idea to introduce additional sharks, as it can lead to the development of a pecking order where dominant individuals assert their superiority.

Feeding Your Bala Shark:

They are omnivores, consuming plants, small crustaceans, insects and their larvae, rotifers, and other invertebrates in their natural habitat.

In an aquarium, Balas readily accept various types of food, including dry flakes, live food, frozen shrimp or blood worms, and pellets.

A well balanced diet will keep your Bala sharks in good health. Like most aquarium fish, feed them three times a day for proper growth.

Consider the inclusion of vegetables such as peas with pods, cooked spinach, and chopped fruit.

Bala Shark Care Guide Diseases

Bala sharks are known for their resilience and longevity. By giving these fish a nutritious diet and keeping the quality of their tank water optimal, Bala will live for ten years.

Regular attention and periodic water changes are necessary to keep them thriving.

Balas are resilient to most illnesses. However, Ich (also called White Spot) can be a problem. Ich is a disease that attacks the skin, and it is a highly infectious parasitic disease. It may be introduced to the aquarium by another sick fish or it may come about if the fish are under stress or the water is poor quality.

Before starting treatment for Ich remove carbon from the filter as it can render the medication ineffective. Also, raise the aquarium temperature by 4 degrees Fahrenheit and add aquarium salt to the water. Finally, introduce parasite medication into the water.

Alternatively, remove infected fish to be treated to a smaller hospital tank.

Careful monitoring, especially during feeding, can help detect any signs of illness. If you observe unusual behaviors, then it pays to investigate further for illness.

Behaviors such as such as rubbing on substrate or rocks, frenzied spasmodic swimming or lethargy (not eating). Also body changes such as: marks or spots on the fish, swelling or a loss of color.

It’s important to be mindful of their jumping behavior.

Breeding Bala Sharks in a Home Aquarium

Requirements and Conditions:

Captive Bala sharks are difficult to breed. However, if you are keen to try then the following guide will help you understand the optimal requirements for successful spawning of these fish.

Bala sharks reach reach maturity at around 3-4 years old. They will need to be a minimum length of 5 inches (33 cm) before expecting them to be ready to breed. Due to their size, a large tank is necessary. The sharks should also be healthy and in optimal condition.

Breeding Tank Setup:

If you intend removing the adults from the tank after spawning use this setup:

A minimum of 55 gallons of water is required for a breeding tank. Maintain the temperature at 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Provide open space for the fish to swim and include plants along the tank’s edges for hiding spaces.

Keep the tank bottom bare for easier cleaning and better visibility of the fry. Ensure proper filtration, preferably with a sponge filter to prevent the fry from being sucked up.

To replicate spawning in their natural habitat, create a flow of water in the tank using an air stone or pump.

Male and female differences:

Telling the difference between male and female sharks can be difficult. By observing their behavior in a group of 6 or 7 can provide clues. Males tend to be slightly larger, while females develop a swollen abdomen as their eggs develop.

Spawning and Care:

Prior to breeding, feed the adult fish a high-protein diet consisting of live foods to prime them for reproduction. Introduce five or six mature fish to the tank.

When ready, the fish will engage in a courtship dance that stimulates the female to release her eggs.

Spawning behavior is like other fish in the cyprinid family, where the female scatters eggs near the substrate and the male fertilizes them.

A consistent water flow is helpful to mix the sperm with the eggs.

After spawning and fertilization remove the adults from the tank, leaving the eggs to hatch and grow. Alternatively, remove the eggs and place them in a separate aquarium for hatching. Parents do not care for the offspring and will quickly eat the eggs.

Adding Methylene Blue treatment to the tank water will stop bacterial build-up.

Raising Bala Shark Fry:

If the process of spawning was a success, you can expect fry in about 3-4 day. Maintain good filtration in the tank.

Once the fry become free-swimming and have absorbed their egg yolks, then it is time to feed them. To start with, boil a chicken egg and crush the yolk between your fingers into the tank.

Do this for a day or two, then provide a selection of food consisting of newly hatched brine shrimp, ciliated cyclops, artemia nauplii and quality commercial fry food.

When fed well with the right food, Bala sharks have a rapid growth rate, and it may be necessary to transfer them to larger tanks as they develop.

Final Thoughts – Bala Shark Care Guide

Bala sharks are an excellent addition kept as a small school of fish to any large aquarium. They are energetic, peaceful fish. When well looked after with correct nutrition and with tank water kept within optimal ranges, these entertaining fish can live ten years or more. Our Bala shark care guide provides a comprehensive look at the extraordinary aquarium fish species.

9 Hardy Plants for a Brackish Water Aquarium [Our Top Picks]

Trevor Aquarium Plants (info and tips), Blog, Care Guides, Info and Tips, Plants (guides) June 12, 2023November 27, 2023aquarium plants, brackish water plants, Plants for a Brackish Water

Plants for a brackish water aquarium: Switching from a freshwater aquarium to a brackish water aquarium will require some adjustments to the types of aquatic life you select to live in the ecosystem you create.

It is important to select plants suitable for brackish water. To assist you in this process, we have compiled a list of some of the finest plants for brackish fish tank environments.

Each plant has a different set of requirements. It is important to learn about the needs of specific species to ensure compatibility with your fish, tank pH and desired salinity.

Brackish water aquariums are popular and offer advantages over freshwater aquariums. The ability to accommodate a wider range of fish species that do well in brackish environments and often brackish fish species are hardier than species that require fresh water.

If you are feeling uncertain about which plants will flourish in your brackish tank setup, this article is tailored to help you select the best species.

Comparison Table of Plants for a Brackish Water Aquarium

Plants for a Brackish Water Aquarium

Java Fern (Microsorum)

This hardy plant from the fern family is a versatile plant that does very well in brackish water aquariums. It naturally grows in flooded forests, along riverbanks, streams, and forest edges. The plant attaches itself to hard surfaces like rocks or wood and derives nutrients directly from the water.

The Java fern can take rough handling by fish in the tank and by the hobbyist. The plant can be split and attached to logs and moved around the tank without causing it too much damage.

It prefers temperatures ranging from temperate (55-65°F) to tropical (75-82°F). High temperatures exceeding 82°F are unsuitable.

The Java Fern tolerates low-light conditions. However, they do prefer plenty of light, enabling them to thrive. This makes it an excellent choice for deeper tanks and where there is competition for light from other plants. The Java fern is a low-maintenance plant option.

The Java fern does well in a range of water conditions, including soft to hard water with a slightly acidic or alkaline pH (5.5-8).

Some species of fern benefit from direct sunlight, whilst others such as the narrow leave varieties, may be sensitive to it.

This variety of plant is perfect for hobbyists looking for man easy to maintain resilient plant. It does well in a brackish water aquarium, and just as well in a freshwater aquarium.

There are many different varieties available to buy online or from the aquarium shops, ranging from affordable to rare and expensive.

Marimo Ball (Aegagropila linna)

Marimo moss balls have a unique spherical shape and do very well in brackish water conditions. They are a type of algae species known as Cladophora, with hundreds of different types found throughout the world wide ranging conditions.

Marimos found in aquariums are sort after for their decorative aspect and because they will grow with slightly elevated salt levels, tolerating salinity up to 1.015, but beyond that, they may start to deteriorate.

These algae balls are naturally found in cool waters and prefer temperatures around 77°F. Higher temperatures can cause them to deteriorate. They do best between a pH range of 7.0 and 8.0.

Maintaining Marimo moss balls is easy. They adapt well to changes in water depth, provided the transitions are gradual. They do best in indirect light and should be kept away from direct sunlight and intense lights.

These are visually striking plants that require minimal lighting and are easy to maintain, making them a perfect addition to aquarium landscapes

Anubias Barteri

Like the Java fern, the Anubias barteri is a tall plant that attaches to hard surfaces. It is found in flooded forests, along edges, streams, and forest edges. The plant is slow-growing and safe for fish consumption.

This water plant can also grow out of the water, making it an excellent choice for brackish tanks housing mudskippers. Its broad leaves provide hiding spots and protection.

Anubias barteri can adapt to various light conditions and has a wide tolerance for water temperature. It will take slightly cooler temperatures and thrives in tropical environments.

The Anubias barteri is useful for filling empty spaces in the aquarium. It is an ideal option if seeking a very hardy plants for a brackish water aquarium.

Anubias

Another highly resilient plant is the Anubias. It flourishes in a wide range of water and lighting conditions. These will take a small amount of salt if acclimatization is done gradually.

Online stores and aquarium suppliers will stock various types of Anubias. Some species exhibit a greater tolerance to salt levels than others. Anubias barteri (see image above) is probably the hardiest and most common type, while Anubias nana stays compact and may be a good choice for smaller aquariums.

Anubias are slow-growing plants that are best attached to rocks or driftwood rather than being planted in the substrate.

The hardiness of Anubias make them suitable for beginners in aquarium keeping.

Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri)

Java moss is a bright green leafy plant that forms compact, carpet-like clumps. It is considered one of the easiest plants to grow and often found thriving in brackish water aquariums.

Being very decorative, java moss can be used in aquascapes to create free-flowing structures to protect fry, shrimp, and other small fish species. Not only does it offer a micro-ecosystem, but it also provides abundant food for fish larvae.

Java moss does not tolerate high temperatures. It does best at temperatures around 77°F. The plant is not demanding in terms of specific water conditions, and it will grow in a large range of lighting conditions.

When acclimating this plant to brackish water, do so gradually by increasing the salinity over time. By regularly trimming the plant you’ll prevent oxygen depletion and browning of the middle part of the leaves.

Java moss is a good choice for beginner aquarists. It has a slow growth rate and does not require a lot of space. In addition, they are relatively low maintenance, making it an ideal plant for a brackish aquarium.

Moneywort (Bacopa monnieri)

This stem plant, like others, require plenty of light and benefits from the addition of fertilizers. The Moneywort is well-suited to brackish tanks with low salinity.

Aquarists like the Moneywort because it has a vibrant green color, together with its resilience, and ease of care. Keeping this plant in an aquarium is very easy. It thrives in reasonably clean, nutrient-rich water with moderate lighting. With these conditions it grows quickly and vigorously.

A healthy moneywort plant makes for an excellent accent species for the mid-section of the aquarium. It contributes to an aesthetically pleasing display by framing rocks or decorations,

The moneywort is a recommended beginner plant for brackish water aquariums.

Seaside Brookweed (Samolus valerandi)

Seaside brookweed will take very saline conditions. In its natural habitat it can be found growing along seashores. It is a versatile plant with a compact growth pattern making it an attractive choice for decorative foregrounds in aquariums.

The Seaside Brookweed is a stunning plant. The bright green leaves make a captivating contrast against stones or aquarium driftwood. This contrast adds visual interest to the aquarium.

The plant is slow growing. Growth can be stimulated through careful trimming. However, don’t get carried away with pruning as it can hinder its development.

By providing ample lighting and by keeping the tank temperature below 77°F, the plant will grow well.

Seaside brookweed will enhance the aesthetic appeal of your brackish aquarium with its bright contrasting colors.

Anacharis (Egeria densa)

If you are looking for a fast-growing plant that can reduce nitrates in an aquarium, then the Anacharis would be an excellent addition.

Anacharis earned the name “waterweed” for a reason… under ideal conditions, it grows vigorously. The benefit of this, is that it will outcompete algae and help in water quality improvement.

It requires lots of light for the plant to thrive. They are suitable for shallow low-grade brackish aquariums.

When purchasing Anacharis, it may come bundled with rubber bands or a sponge to hold the stems together. It is important to remove these bonds and plant the stems separately.

Depending on the aquarium substrate used, the cuttings may uproot and float freely. Good lighting will promote root growth and prevent uprooting.

Due to its rapid growth, Anacharis benefits from regular pruning. It looks stunning in the aquarium, especially when contrasted with rocks, other plants, and driftwood. It also does well in fish ponds.

Cryptocoryne Wendtii

Our last choice for a versatile plant that can thrive in brackish water conditions is the Cryptocoryne wendtii. This plant is well-suited for well-maintained brackish aquariums where salinity levels replicate it’s natural environment (ideally levels up to 7 ppt or 1.005 sg).

This species has a wide tolerance for lighting and water conditions. Cryptocoryne wendtii prefer warmer temperatures, but not exceeding 80°F. The leaves may display differences in shape and color depending on light intensity.

Cryptocoryne wendtii grow from tubers. When it produces new growth from their tubers, it will look to be modest to begin with. However, this plant has the potential to form a lush underbrush on the tank bottom, providing cover for bottom dwelling species such as eels or dragon gobies.

When adjusting to a new environment, the plant may shed its leaves. These will regrow but it may take a while.

Cryptocoryne wendtii is an excellent choice for brackish aquariums. Give them amble light and watch them flourish!

Some of the Best Plants for a Brackish Water Aquarium

We have introduced you to what we consider to be the best plants for a brackish water aquarium. Our selection are easy care varieties with aesthetic appeal, guaranteed to enhance your tank and provide a healthy ecosystem for your fish and invertebrates.

By carefully selecting the most suitable plants, you can create a visually appealing display highlighting the substrate and ensuring the well-being of your aquatic inhabitants.

A brackish habitat can be successfully replicated in an aquarium. The key is to choose plants that thrive in low concentrations of dissolved salts.

We wish you success with incorporating these plants into your brackish water tank.

You may be interested on reading our article: Most Popular Saltwater Plants for an Aquarium

Platinum Arowana Dragonfish – Meet Our Most Expensive Fish!

Trevor Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Care Guides, Info and Tips, Tropical Freshwater (guides), Tropical Freshwater Fish (Care Guides), Uncategorized June 10, 2023July 29, 2023arowana, dragonfish, platinum Arowana

The Platinum Arowana is widely recognized as one of the most expensive freshwater fish in the world. Its visually captivating appearance makes it highly sought after by affluent fish keepers who are willing to pay a premium to become its proud owners.

Let’s delve into more details about this tropical species and understand why it commands such a high price.

An overview of the Platinum Arowana (osteoglossum bicirrhosum)

The Platinum Arowana belongs to the Osteoglossidae family. It is a unique threatened fish native to Brazil.

Arowana habitat

The main habitats of this fish are the freshwater rivers, lakes, and ponds in tropical South America. Concentrations can be found in the Amazon River basin, Rupununi, and Oyapock Rivers. It is able to thrive in diverse environments, including flooded forests.

The Arowana is a true carnivore

The Arowana is a hunter, seeking prey of fish, insects and other small animals found on the water surface.

What sets this carnivore fish apart from other hunters is its extraordinary ability to spit to catch prey. They are able to target prey such as insects in low hanging branches and knock them into the water with a squirt of water. This hunting technique is not common among fish. The Archer fish from Australia is another species of fish that uses this technique.

The Arowana is a very fast powerful fish. Its power and the unique hunting technique solidifies its reputation as one of the most amazing and mysterious fish kept by aquarists.

Description of the Platinum Arowana

The Platinum Arowana streamlined body that resembles an eel and its shiny metallic scales that exhibit a mesmerizing pale silver color, make this a very sort after fish.

Its large eyes, oblique mouths, and tapered tail, contribute to its sleek and elegant appearance. In addition, the merging of its dorsal and pectoral fins with the snout, enhances its streamlined look.

The Arowana has two barbels located at its jaw. These barbels allow the fish to sense movements in its surroundings. The fish has a calm confident appearance as it swims gracefully around its tank.

Its slender body is adorned with massive scales that contribute to its majestic appearance and add to its allure. Some scales measure up to an inch in length.

Arowanas have been bred to come in a variety of colors, including silver, blue, and red. Providing enthusiasts with a range of options to choose from.

Arowanas, a threatened species

Due to habitat destruction and illegal mining the Silver Arowana, a close relative of the Platinum Arowana, the fish is under great threat in certain regions. It is considered to be a local delicacy, leading to intense fishing of this species.

To preserve this extraordinary fish and its habitat, there needs to be a concerted effort with conservation and responsible fishing practices.

By preserving this fish’s natural habitat and through responsible fish farming practices, will ensure the survival of this remarkable fish.

Why is the Platinum Arowana so sort after?

Fish keepers seek to own this fish as it is a true marvel of nature! Its exceptional hunting technique, impressive physical attributes, confident personality, and adaptability to thrive in diverse freshwater habitats lures people to this fish.

Owning and caring for the Platinum Arowana requires knowledge and experience. However, the rewards of admiring its beauty and being able to watch its unique behaviors make it a worthwhile for the dedicated aquarium enthusiast.

Due to its rarity and beauty, the Platinum Arowana is much sought after aquarium fish. It commands a very high market value with enthusiasts, in some instances, paying more than $300,000 to own this remarkable fish!

Owning this fish isn’t for the light-hearted. Careful attention is required to meet its demanding needs. Arowanas have substantial appetites and require a large and well-equipped tank to thrive.

How long does an Arowana live for?

In captivity, the Platinum Arowana can live for 15 – 21 years or even longer. This depends on the quality of care provided.

Owning a ‘Dragonfish’ brings good luck

The Platinum Arowana is also often referred to as the “Dragonfish”. Its majestic presence, characterized by large scales, extended fins, streamlined body, barbels, and upward-pointing teeth give this fish an appearance and demeanour of a Dragon. Thus, contributing to why this awe-inspiring fish is such a highly sought-after and valuable ornamental fish.

Believed to bring good luck and prosperity among many Asian collectors, this rare fish is a gem among aquatic creatures.

The challenge of keeping Platinum Arowanas

Arowanas have specific care requirements requiring expertise and experience when acquiring and keeping them.

These “monster” fish are capable of growing nearly four feet in length in their natural habitat. Therefore a well-equipped and spacious tank is necessary for their well-being.

Tank requirements for keeping Arowanas

Arowanas are demonstrate impressive leaping abilities! Provide a large, wide, and deep tank to accommodate this jumping behavior. Having the correct tank set-up will prevent the fish from excessive contact with the bottom or sides of the tank.

Additional tank reinforcement by covering it with plexiglass or nets will prevent fish jumping out. Due to their robust and aggressive behavior, it is best to only house one Platinum Arowana in the tank.

Due to the fish’s size and strength, it is necessary to have a tank that can hold at least 150 gallons and water with extra-thick glass. Having a sturdy tank will better withstand this magnificent fish’s power and ensure that they are kept safe from injury and stress.

To allow the fish to move around freely without injury, it is better to provide a tank free of obstacles. These fish require lots of open space to swim.

The fish’s beauty can be enhanced by illuminated lights or mirrors.

Arowana Platinum diet and feeding

The Platinum Arowana is a carnivore. In the wild the Arowana is known for capturing prey from the water’s surface.

Keepers of this fish feed fish, crickets, shrimp, and similar live foods. These can be bred by the hobbyist or bought commercially.

It is not always convenient or ideal for these fish to be reliant on live foods. Live foods can also introduce pathogens and diseases into the tank, posing a risk to the fish. So, some hobbyists prefer to feed them on commercial pelleted food. Arowans can be conditioned to eating commercial foods.

When introducing live foods, it is recommended to quarantine them before introducing them to the aquarium.

Arowanas are all individuals and will have their preferences for foods- some fish may be finicky. You may need to experiment with different foods to find out which they will take readily.

Always look for quality when feeding Arowanas. Look for a diet rich in nutrients. By doing so, will ensure a healthy long living fish.

Platinum Arowana tankmates

Due to the size and aggressive behavior of this fish, it is not recommended to keep them in a tank with other fish. They tend to do best when kept on their own. Conflicts and undue stress will result when housed with other species.

Being a solitary predatory fish that is best suited for an exclusive tank setup. Careful considerations and planning need to be made if deciding to include tank-mates.

Look for semi-aggressive and passive species. Consider Oscars, Black Ghost Knife Fish, Pacu, Silver Dollar, Clown Loach, Pleco, larger cichlids, Flying Fox, Redtail Catfish, Tiger Shovel Nose Catfish, and Iridescent Shark.

Interesting traits of the Arowana

Platinum Arowanas have a natural inclination to swim near the water’s surface. They are a apex predators looking for prey on the surface. Some fish in the wild have discovered with bats and snakes in their stomachs. Thus, highlighting their exceptional hunting ability.

Another astonishing trait is its incredible jumping ability. Arowanas can leap up to six feet from the water’s surface to catch bugs, frogs and even birds perched on branches.

Arowanas demonstrate athleticism and adaptability in acquiring food sources.

Breeding Platinum Arowanas

Similar to some other fish species such as the cichlids, the Platinum Arowana is a mouth brooder.

Once the eggs are laid and fertilized, the male carefully collects them into his mouth. He will devote himself entirely to the protection of the eggs. The eggs take about a month to hatch.

During this period, the male Arowana abstains from eating. He devotes himself to focusing solely on nurturing and safeguarding the precious eggs.

The male will continue to protect the fry in his mouth for a further two to three months.

The mouth-brooding behavior of the Arowanas highlight their devotion to protecting their offspring.

The breeding process of this extraordinary species fascinates hobbyists and adds to the lure of keeping this fish.

Gender differences

Telling the difference between male and female Arowanas is very difficult. There are no real visual differences. In order to accurately identify the sex of a breeding pair DNA test is required.

Final thoughts

The Platinum Arowana stands as an exceptional highly desired fish, known for its unique characteristics and unparalleled beauty. Its captivating presence is enhanced by its sleek, flat body, metallic scales, and distinctive features.

This highly valued species captures the attention and admiration of dedicated fish keepers worldwide. It is a true gem among aquatic creatures.

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Natural vs. Artificial Substrates

Natural substrates

Pebbles:

Gravel:

Sand:

Aquarium soil:

Artificial substrate

And bare bottoms!

The Best Substrate for Cichlids Aquarium

Considerations When Choosing Substrate

Size of particles

Color

Impact on the tank water

Effect on the fish

Tips for Maintaining and Using Substrate

Final Thoughts – best substrate for cichlid aquarium

Understanding Light Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

Choosing the Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants for Different Stages of Plant Growth

Early growth and seedling stage

Vegetative growth stage

Flowering and fruiting stage

Types of Aquaria Light and Their Spectrum

A. Full Spectrum Lights

C. T5 and T8 Fluorescent Lights

D. Metal Halide Lights

Proper Placement of Lights

Using Timers for Consistency

Adjusting Light Intensity and Duration

Monitoring Plant Response

Real-life Examples and Case Studies of the Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

Final Thoughts – Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

Best Shrimp for Betta Tank Cohabitation

Compatibility and Benefits

Best Shrimp for Betta Tanks [Our Top Picks]

Cherry Shrimp

Characteristics and appearance:

Compatibility with bettas:

Care requirements:

Amano Shrimp

Characteristics and appearance:

Compatibility with bettas:

Care requirements:

Ghost Shrimp

Characteristics and appearance:

Compatibility with bettas:

Care requirements:

Tips for Introducing Shrimp to a Betta Tank

Additional considerations for best shrimp for betta tank

Final thoughts – best shrimp for betta tank

How often should you feed a betta fish bloodworms?

Understanding the Nutritional Value of Bloodworms

● Live bloodworms

● Freeze-dried bloodworms

● Frozen bloodworms

Factors Influencing Feeding Frequency

Signs of Overfeeding or Underfeeding

Best Practices and Tips for Bloodworm Feeding

Final thoughts – How often should you feed a betta fish bloodworms?

Why is my fish swimming sideways?

Swimming sideways caused by swim bladder disorder?

What is the role of the swim bladder?

Could your fish have constipation?

Fish swimming sideways- a sign of enlarged organs

Try the frozen pea trick!

Food can sometimes cause this problem

Infections cause fish swimming sideways

What other reasons why my goldfish is swimming sideways?

What else can I do for my goldfish?

How can I prevent swim bladder problems in the future?

Why Keep Aggressive Cichlids?

How to Reduce Aggressiveness in Cichlids?

12 Popular Aggressive Cichlids Fish Kept by Aquarists

Peacock Bass Cichlid

Jack Dempsey

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Green Texas Cichlid

Umbee Cichlid

Wolf Cichlid