Care Guides

[Detailed Guide] Tiger Shovel Nose Catfish

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Tiger Shovel Nose Catfish

The Tiger Shovel Nose Catfish is a unique aquatic fish that has attracted the attention of aquarists for many years. Their size and temperament make them impressive to look at in a tank, but also presents fish enthusiasts with some challenges.

In this guide we address these challenges and present information to assist with keeping this fascinating species in your aquarium.

Introducing the Tiger Shovel Nose Catfish

Tiger Shovel Nose Catfish

The Shovelnose tiger catfish (Pseudoplatystoma fasciatum), also known as the Barred Sorubium or Tiger Spade Nose Catfish, is a large fish that can grow to four feet in the wild.

Native to the Amazon River basin, catfish can be found in the deepest sections of rivers, residing in the shade of overhangs or in amongst river logs.

Shovelnose catfish tend to live in dark, murky waters where their vision isn’t very useful. They have sensitive barbel whiskers, which are used to search out food using touch and taste.

Their ‘catfish’ name came about by having these whiskers, and the fact that when caught by a fisherman they make a noise like a cat purring.

Because of their size and taste, these fish are sought after by local fishermen, being regarded as good-eating sport fish. They are regularly found for sale in South American fish markets.

Tiger shovelnose are solitary creatures and nocturnal hunters. In the wild, they feed on fish, crustaceans, and even larger animals such as small mammals and birds.

Tiger Shovel Nose Catfish Appearance

Their long, lean body has a solid silvery gray glow. Dark streaks and spots are spread all over the body and can give the catfish the appearance of a tiger.

These river monsters have large flat mouth that helps them capture their prey. The barbels are long, sloping down, and protrude from the front of your jaw. These are used to locate prey. The dorsal fins are medium in size and folded back in a shell-like pattern.

Size

These catfish can become huge in an aquarium and need a lot of room to swim!

In the wild, specimens can grow as large as four feet long and weigh as much as 70 pounds. Aquarium kept fish wouldn’t reach this size.

Catfish grow continuously throughout their lives. No matter how little you feed them or how small the tanks are, they will quickly grow into something huge. Expect your aquarium Shovelnose catfish to eventually grow to about 30 inches long (2.5 feet).

Females grow larger than males, reaching sexual maturity at about 22 inches and males at 18 inches.

How fast do they grow?

Tiger Shovel Nose Catfish

When fed correctly Shovelnose catfish can grow 12″ every 2 years, reaching their full length in 5-6 Years. This is only achievable with a big enough tank and when fed a variety of meaty foods. Most people simply don’t have the space in their homes for a suitable tank and often get rid of their catfish at around 3-4 years.

How long does a tiger shovel nose catfish live?

The lifetime of the tiger shovelnose catfish in captivity is about 18-20 years. Longevity is influenced by genetic influences and the level of treatment to which these fish are subjected. Wild fish live longer.

Are they dangerous?

Tigernose catfish are very ferocious looking and do have an aggressive nature. If the tank you use to house them in is overcrowded with aquarium decorations and other species of fish, Tiger catfish may become hostile.

They are a species of fish that hunts for its food, and will willingly eat smaller tankmates.

It is best to house Tigernose Catfish in a long and wide tank, allowing them the space they need, and match tankmates that have the size and similar nature to be able to defend themselves.

Tigernose catfish do not have venomous spines that can harm people or tankmates.

Aquarium Care

Tiger Shovel Nose Catfish

Tank Size

Tiger Shovelnose Catfish is a predatory monster that an experienced aquarist should only keep with a huge tank.

These fish can get anxious when stressed and react quickly by rising to the surface, splashing water everywhere. They become very active in the tank when agitated.

Juveniles less than 6 inches long must be in a tank of at least 55 gallons.

As these fish grow, they will require a much larger tank to cater for their size. A tank would need to be at least 180 gallons.

Tank Considerations

The tank you house these fish in needs to be robust. Due to the size they can grow to, and their aggressive fast swimming nature when agitated or frightened, these fish can break glass, especially aquarium lids if they jump.

The catfish dwells in the lower portions of the tank, so a long and wide tank is better suited for this species. This allows for them to have room to turn around and swim naturally.

What to Put in Their Tank

Tiger Shovelnose Catfish suffer from stress or aggression when in an empty tank. By replicating their natural environment by including rocks, driftwood or bogwood, and plants into your tank they will feel more at home with places to hide.

Tank Mates

They can live alone or in community with other catfish. Due to their aggressive nature, it is important to match them with tank mates that are of similar size and are robust enough to take a few knocks.

Shovelnose catfish will pick on other fish that cannot stand up for themselves and get territorial (especially if there is not enough room).

Tankmates would need to be resilient species of fish. Such fish would include: Arowana, other large catfish like the Redtail Catfish, Giant Gourami, Pacu, and even Oscar fish. Just make sure there is room in your tank.

You must try to disperse aggression; otherwise, it will not be possible to keep Tiger Shovelnose Catfish in communities tanks. Therefore look for robust, but peaceful tankmates.

Water parameters

Tiger shovelnose catfish are hardy freshwater fish species that can tolerate a wide range of water parameters. They require minimal maintenance once the tank is set up properly.

Quality water is one of the most crucial aspects of good fish care, and when taken seriously you can expect fish to be healthier and live longer. Do regular water checks using a reliable testing kit, make water changes and attended to tank maintenance.

  • Water temperature: 75°F to 82°F.
  • pH levels: 6-8.
  • Water hardness: 6-20 KH.

What to do when Tiger Shovel Nose Catfish outgrow their tanks

Careful planning in the beginning is required before embarking with keeping this species of fish.

Many inexperienced hobbyists are attracted to the juvenile Shovelnose Catfish in the aquarium stores. These smaller fish look unique, are very attractive with their large mouths and whiskers and appear harmless. However, they discover quickly that their little catfish soon becomes a tank giant and outgrows its home and they are wanting to give their fish away.

Most public zoos and aquariums may no longer accept these monsters, so finding a home may not be easy. They should never be thrown out into the wild as they are a skilled predator that can degrade native species and their natural habitats.

Diet

Tiger shovelnose catfish are not picky eaters. In the wild they hunt for prey consisting of crustaceans, fish, frogs and other smaller animals that cross their path.

Feed them a balanced diet consisting of a mixture of frozen foods, worms, and pellets. For a treat, offer shrimp and pieces of fish.

Ensure you provide enough food for these fish to match their size and appetites.

Never overfeed your catfish; overfeeding is the leading cause of poor water quality leading to health problems. If you accidentally overfeed your fish, proceed with a water change as soon as possible.

These nocturnal fish prefer to forage for food when the lights go out.

Breeding Tigernose Catfish

Tiger Shovelnose catfish are very difficult to breed in aquariums since they need plenty of space to breed. They can however be bred in large ponds. Having a pond that replicates the muddy rivers they originate from will be helpful in enticing this species to breed.

There is no know external ways to sex these fish. Females do grow larger than males, but otherwise they have the same appearance.

We suggest that you do not attempt to breed them in your tank, rather just enjoy  the extraordinary beauty of this species.

Common diseases

Tiger shovelnose catfish have no specific diseases or ailments. Illnesses that they may get can usually be attributed to poor water quality or overcrowding.

In this case, follow the basics of water health. Perform water tests, provide healthy food with no leftovers, and reduce tank stress.large fish for a large aquarium

If you get it right, the tiger can live a long time.

A Tiger Shovelnose Catfish aquarium tank should have a quality filtration system since these fish are sensitive to poor water quality.

Final Thoughts – Tiger Shovel Nose Catfish

The tiger shovelnose catfish are an impressive species and make great pets for anyone with the space to accommodate them. Raw quality, power, and unique appearance will make them an instant stand out! They are active fish that never cease to entertain!

.

[Complete Guide] Lemon Tetra: Care, Diet, Tank Mates, Lifespan And More

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Lemon Tetra

Lemon Tetra, scientific name Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis, is a common freshwater tropical fish. They are omnivorous, feeding on small invertebrates, crustacea, filamentous algae, fallen fruit, and suchlike. They have bright colors, robustness, and a calm temperament. These conditions are easily replicated in captivity, resulting in natural school behavior, breeding, and even defensive techniques. Lemon tetras have become extremely popular in the aquarium business, starting as one of the first species available (introduced in 1932) and commercially produced and now continuing as a basic inhabitant of most aquariums.

Summary of species

Lemon tetras originate in Brazil, and there is a debate about where they are collected, but evidence shows that they are in the basin of the Tapajós and Xingu rivers. A peaceful and hardy fish, the tetra-lemon is an easy-to-care freshwater species. These fish are an excellent addition to a community aquarium and can flourish in large groups. They are excellent choices for both experienced and novice aquarists. Lemon Tetras resides on narrow tributaries of the Tapajós River.

Lemon Tetra care: Tank size, food, school, and breeding

Lemon tetra (Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis) brings a vibrant, elegant look to your community aquarium. This small but energetic fish is easy to enjoy and easy for someone new to the hobby to keep. Here is the most detailed guide about this fish.

Lemon Tetra Care: Diet, Tank Mates, Size, Behavior

Lemon Tetras are delightful freshwater fish that can add a colorful touch to any aquarium. And of course, they are very active and fun. But for some reason, aquarium hobby often underrepresents this species. Read this information to understand how to care for the lemon tetra. Here you’ll find more detailed information about your tank mates’ behavior, size, diet, and more. We like lemon tetras and have met a few other owners in the fishkeeping community.

Appearance

Lemon tetras have a diamond-shaped body similar to many other tropical fish tetras. However, lemon tends to be taller and more horizontally compressed. The fish can be sexed using the color of the anal fin. The eyes of this tetra have nothing in common with its body, showing an intense red color, which also makes it unique! The lower half of the iris appears bright red that deepens and dulls due to the health of the fish. Other notable physical characteristics include an adipose fin and the lemon yellow color presented in some parts of the body and fins.

Lemon Tetra

Average size

The typical size of the lemon tetra is 1.5 inches when fully grown. These fish are tiny, which makes them comfortable regardless of the space available to them. Despite their smaller size, they have an intense coloration, standing out among the other inhabitants. They are great fish for nano tanks.

Lemon Tetra

Lemon tetra description

The largest male tetra-lemons are 1.5 inches long. The body is translucent to a light yellowish hue, and we see the lateral shimmering line that goes from the gill coverage to the beginning of the tail fin. The front ends are bright yellow, while the tip and edge of the dorsal fin and the posterior ray of the anal fin are black.

Commercial presence

The Lemon Tetra was introduced to the aquarium market around the beginning of the 20th century. These species are not threatened with extinction in the wild. It is easy to breed in captivity means that aquarists can produce a healthy population themselves. They are hardy fish and get along well with many other species; this adds even more attraction to community aquariums. Like some other tetras, they spawn together and produce many eggs.

Wild habitat

Tetra lemons are freshwater fish, but they cannot tolerate a hostile environment. Lemon tetras are not listed in the IUCN as an endangered species with a relatively narrow distribution and no environmental threat. They prefer shallow and slower river environments in their natural habitat, gravitating towards small streams, areas of flooded forest, and small puddles. The waters they live in are typically straightforward and contain a high mineral content compared to other parts of the river’s tributary.

Lemon tetra information

Lemon tetra is endemic to a specific region in Brazil. The lemon tetras have a yellowish color. The color of the species can change concerning the color of the substrate and the aquarium lighting. The ideal water temperature is 68 to 82 F. The Lemon Tetra is a peaceful fish and will work well in a quiet community aquarium. The aquarium can be a planted tank with a pH between 5 and 7.5, and the water hardness should be between 18 and 215 ppm. The fish is straightforward to breed in captivity compared to other tetras.

Lemon Tetra Care

Lemon Tetra can live up to eight years, although the average is about five years. However, these species are incredibly stable and are known to enjoy a good life in captivity. Lemon tetras are hardy animals, able to survive in many different situations. As mentioned here before, the tetra-lemon is strictly a tropical freshwater fish.

Lemon tetra setup

Lemon tetras kept in tanks that are too small can become shy and stressed. The suggested minimum size for the aquarium is 60 centimeters (24 inches). Try to imitate the nature of Lemon Tetra in your aquarium location. To make the fish more colorful, you can use dark aquarium water, as the contrast effect enhances the fish’s color. A densely planted aquarium containing at least a large open area for swimming can help fish. It is possible to find other peaceful fish species of similar size, which require the same water temperature and chemical characteristics as lemon tetras.

Tank size & tank setup

When designing the tank, it’s best to start with somewhere around 20 gallons or more. Keeping at least six fish together in a tank is ideal as it is a schooling species. A lemongrass aquarium should look like its habitat, densely planted, with clear water and moderate flow. This species needs hiding places and low light, include caves and plants, to block light.

Water parameters

Tetra lemons are obtained from shallow streams with soft, clear water. Lemon tetras are hard enough to tolerate most normal water conditions in a tropical aquarium. To ensure that this water parameter remains consistent, you should invest in an accurate water test kit. The ability to get fast, accurate readings is a must for any aquarist and will allow you to make adjustments to the water as needed.

Tank Size

It’s a small species, so that you can keep them in nano tanks. Despite this, lemon tetras are school fish and prefer to live in ponds. A tank containing 20 gallons of water will satisfy a small number of six fish. They are incredibly active fish and need a large area of water to have fun.

Conditions of water

The water temperature for Lemon Tetra Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis is between 68 and 82 Fahrenheit. The ideal pH range for these freshwater fish is between 5.5 and 7.5, and the hardness range is between 3 to 20 dGH. This aquatic fish will happily swim across the surface of the water and prefers a moderate water flow. Like most fish, they need clean water free of nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia. Maintain a weekly maintenance routine in the tank, cleaning the substrate and changing the water.

What to put in their tank

The tetra lemon blooms in densely planted clear waters in the Amazon region. They adapt very well to Amazon-themed aquariums, even blackwater ones. Start with the substrate; a layer of sand or fine gravel should suffice. Then add driftwood and roots to simulate your biotope. Rocks are also welcome. Mix multiple plants for a natural forest look. Use low-lying plants, taller-stemmed plants, and floating plants. The school should have a large open swimming area— standard filtration equipment, water flow, and lighting correctly.

Recreating a natural environment

Lemon Tetras requires a wide-open space for them to swim. The following elements are some of the main ornamental features to be used when trying to recreate the lemon tetras environment. Optional factors in a tank configuration include dry leaves, tannins, and floating plants. This species performs well in community aquariums with other peaceful inhabitants and will likely share the same food as its tank mates. These fish accept a wide variety of frozen, live and dry, natural and commercial foods.

Food & Diet

Lemon tetras are omnivorous and highly competitive for food. They must rely on high-quality food for their meals. Provide just enough food for them to consume without leftovers. Keep your diet varied, and your fish will have everything they need to stay in top shape and healthy. Feed several small meals throughout the day. Feed a variety of living, frozen snacks to keep the fish fit and healthy. Give the fish a small supply of food, and they will be healthy, and it will help color the fish.

Lemon Tetra

Food and Diet

Their diet should consist of high-quality dry flakes; supplements such as life, fresh or frozen foods are welcome—lemon tetras enjoy daphnia, brine shrimp, and mosquito larvae. Lemon tetras love to eat plants and small animals in the wild, including invertebrates, arachnids, and ants. It is vital to provide the fish with high-quality food.

Breeding

Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis are easily bred in the home aquarium. These fish disperse eggs and show no parental care. Spawning can be caused by conditioning the breeders with live feed and maintaining the water temperature between 75 and 78.8 Fahrenheit and pH levels between 6.5 and 7.2. A small 3-4 gallon breeding tank is ideal. Under suitable conditions, a large adult can produce as little as 300 eggs in one spawn. Eggs ripen within 24 hours.

Lemon Tetra breeding

A separate tank is specifically needed for breeding and make sure it is full of plants. Tetras spread their eggs and usually try to eat them, hence the importance of plants as they help to protect them. A lemon tetra that lays thousands of eggs a day is not uncommon. In approximately three days, the eggs will hatch, and the chicks will start eating feed in a few days. Lemon tetras are relatively simple creatures, easy to handle and maintain. They add the perfect color to any aquarium. They take varied conditions and can live along with many species of fish.

Lemon Tetra Tank Mates

Lemon tetras are small and delicate enough to become fish food, so don’t keep it with big or aggressive fish. If you decide to keep it in a community tank, choose fish of similar sizes and with the same peaceful temperament. Choose tank mates, such as dwarf shrimp, peaceful-tempered fish, or the like. The lemon tetra can live with a wide variety of tank mates, especially in larger aquariums.

Tank Mates

Lemon tetras generally do well with more laid-back species that don’t become too aggressive when faced with competition for food or territory. Even relatively calm cichlids can be aggressive with tetras; likewise, the little tetra may decide to eat the shrimp. Always remember that the tank owner must continually monitor the tank’s residents and prevent problems.

Behavior & Temperament

Lemon Tetra is a tranquil fish that likes to preserve peace. Like most other tetras, they prefer group life. Males can display aggression during mating, which will lead to a small fight between them, but without significant problems. These are fish that like to group in large schools.

Schooling behavior of Lemon Tetra

Tetra lemon works best when grouped in shoals, and when kept alone, it can be stressed by being anxious. In the wild, lemon tetras unite in large flocks that sometimes contain several thousand fish. Even though they are quiet, males can sometimes show aggression when trying to court females. They can be kept with other small fish species such as other tetras, Apistogramma, or plecos. They are often intimidated by larger fish, but they like to eat small animals like shrimp.

Life span

The average lifespan of the lemon tetra is about five years. In a poorly managed environment, fish experience stress, disease, and premature death. Like all other fish, the life span can be reduced considerably if proper care is not provided. There are many cases where these fish have survived their lifespan, but it is usually a combination of reasonable care and luck.

Diseases

Hyphesobrycon pulchripinnis is a powerful fish in any tank. When kept in polluted aquariums, fish can become stressed, causing fungus and disease to develop. Like most tropical freshwater fish, the tetra is prone to parasitic infestations, skin worms, and bacterial infections. Before introducing new specimens into your main aquarium, quarantine them to make sure they are disease-free. Before adding plants and decorations to your aquarium, you need to sanitize them.

Potential diseases

Many common illnesses need your attention, including bacterial infections and parasitic infections. You can treat most problems through quarantine, providing pure water, a good diet, and prescription drugs. To keep the water parameters ideal and clean, perform maintenance with a weekly water change. Always have a kit to test nitrogen levels, pH, and everything else you need. When suffering from an illness, the bright colors disappear. If you pay attention to red-eye coloration, you can use their appearance to gauge the health quality of tetra lemons.

Lemon Tetras vs. Other Popular Tetras

Tetras generally share the same general characteristics for their maintenance in tanks. Lemon Tetras require specific water parameters to survive but are still relatively tough and worth your investment as new inhabitants in your aquarium.

Conclusion

No matter how much experience you have, lemon tetra care should never be a problem for you. As long as you follow our recommendations and keep an eye out, you and your fish will be happy.

Chili Rasbora (Boraras Brigittae) Guide: Care, Diet, Lifespan And More

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Chili Rasbora

Boraras brigittae, also known as Chili rasbora, is a tiny, brightly colored tropical freshwater nano fish that is often a favorite of people who maintain nano fish tanks and large community tanks. They demonstrate a peaceful temperament and love the company of others of their kind because it is a schooling fish. They create an elegant middle-to-top movement in your aquarium’s water column. This species is less susceptible to single diseases, and its life expectancy rarely exceeds five years. Due to its unique characteristics, some fish care can be a bit challenging for novices. To ensure a long and healthy life, take the time to learn about your tank maintenance and upkeep by reading this guide.

The Complete Guide to Chili Rasbora Care

Chili Rasboras are tiny schooling fish that look great in either a nano-tank or a larger tank. When they are in a school, they make swimming fun to watch and have a good personality. Read this article to get ideas and information about caring for your fish and how to keep the best conditions for them in your aquarium.

History and a first sighting

Chili Rasbora was discovered in 1991 by Maurice Kottelat and published in his Asian Indigenous Fish series five years later. They are believed to have entered the hobby in the late 1990s. To this day, it is still quite common in aquariums, especially among fans of Nano Tanks. Little more is known about this fish.

Natural habitat

The rasbora chili is native and endemic to southwestern Borneo. Fish enjoy various hiding places and cover provided by fallen leaves, submerged branches, and roots. The species’ natural habitat is rapidly deteriorating, so the species’ future in the wild is not guaranteed.

Distribution & Natural Habitat

Chili Rasboras are endemic throughout southeast Borneo. They inhabit streams and pools of black water and can be found in swampy regions with soft water and very low pH. Although the IUCN has not covered this species, there is a severe threat to destroying its natural habitats – specifically the ancient peat swamps. Being in peat moss pools means that the dKH is remarkably low – or incredibly minimal, and there is dim light in most cases.

Identification

Chili rasboras are vibrant pink-orange fish with a black and red line descending along their mid-lateral line. Even its tiny fins show tiny orange dots. Mosquito Rasboras are fish of small size, presenting a maximum of 0.8 inches.

Chili Rasbora

Chili Rasbora (Boraras Brigittae):

The Chili Rasbora is a tropical freshwater fish that has been attracting the attention of the hobbyist community for some time. These fish are beautiful, cute (so small!), and easy to care for. This guide covers water condition, size, tank mates, diet, and everything you need to know to maintain your tanks. We also discuss fish size, tank mates, and diet.

Summary of species

When Chili Rasboras were discovered in southeastern Malaysia, they were classified as a species of the genus Rasbora; today, they are classified as Boraras. Regardless of their name, these fish pose a unique challenge to many fishkeepers. It is a small freshwater shoal fish that has become quite popular among aquarists. They offer a colorful addition to tanks of any size or shape.

Appearance

Chili Rasboras have a fiery red color, and their bodies are covered with red and pink colors. Males are more vividly red when contrasted with females. Chili Rasboras has the thinnest body around its midsection, although the lower body shrinks to a large tail fin. Its large eyes appear with the most prominent features on the head. The fins are very transparent, which gives the small red spots a floating appearance.

Chili Rasboras (Boraras brigittae)

Their peaceful behavior, colorful bodies, and schooling habits make them an exceptional addition to aquariums. Read on to learn everything you need to know about caring for this small freshwater tropical fish in your aquarium.

Chili Rasboras Care Guide

Chili Rasbora, Mosquito rasbora, or Boraras brigittae are the smallest tropical fish in the aquarium hobby. Chili rasboras are “nano” fish with an estimated length between 0.5 and 0.8 inches at height. The commonly used name mosquito rasbora was chosen because the habitat was full of mosquitoes.

Chili Rasbora Guide: The Jewel Of Low Light Aquariums

Chili Rasbora is a fish native to Borneo that looks like small chili swimming in water. They are small and colorful fish, perfect for tropical aquariums. Get information in this guide about this fish’s habitats and settings in the tank, its ideal companion, and how to feed it and keep it in your aquarium.

How many per gallon?

To keep a small school of 6 individuals, you can use a 30-liter tank. Consider a larger tank to build a community with plants. The more space to swim and the many hiding places, the happier and more adapted the school. Fish are a bit shy, so it’s best to stay in large groups, thus encouraging their normal behavior.

Maintenance

Best kept in densely planted aquariums and an excellent choice for carefully landscaped tanks. Floating plants and branches or trunk roots to diffuse the light adds a more natural feel. The addition of dry leaves further emphasizes the natural sense and encourages the growth of beneficial microbe colonies. Tannin and other chemicals released by decaying leaves are considered helpful to blackwater fish species. Keep the species in mature tanks. Very dim lighting is recommended to simulate conditions in nature.

Name

Chili rasbora is also known as chili rasbora or mosquito rasbora. They were initially described as Rasbora urophthalma, though researchers then moved them to the genus Boraras based on morphological differences. The genus has only approximately six other species in the world. The chili rasbora is best known due the color and temperament. It is believed they were known as a mosquito because of the concentration of those blood-sucking bugs present when they were discovered for the aquarium trade.

Chili Rasbora appearance

The Chili Rasbora is one of the most fantastic nano fish, reaching just 0.70-0.78 inches. These fish are colored in any hue from black to deep orange, and the black sidelines are solid or separate. Males are brighter than females, and their intensity is more significant when looking for a mate. It is possible to distinguish between a couple and a partner by color and shape. Males have incredibly intense red colors such as blood red, scarlet, and cherry. Females look bland and are usually mixed with phoenix rasboras and other lighter-colored fish.

Chili Rasbora

Is Chili Rasbora suitable for an aquarium?

Chili Rasbora is gentle and shy; they are beautiful, with their vivid colors and schooling movements. They can be very friendly to other big, peaceful, and gentle fish. They love lush vegetation that mimics their natural habitats in Indonesia, providing hiding places and feeding areas for the microfauna that accumulates in plant leaves. When they swim in a solitary place, they enjoy the abundance of aquatic plants. Like any other shoal fish, they should not be kept alone in the aquarium.

Habitat

They inhabit blackwater streams and lakes associated with peat swamps. The water turns brown due to the release of tannins and humic acids. These precious biotopes are threatened by rubber and palm oil plantations, construction projects, and other human activities. Such environments characteristically contain very soft acidic water (insignificant hardness) and generally have poor lighting due to dense marginal vegetation and the forest canopy above.

Should you keep the chili rasbora?

The rasbora chili can be very rewarding for nano fishers. Novice fish farming enthusiasts or those with little experience with micro fish and tropical aquariums may find their maintenance a little intimidating. If you have consistent water quality, your Rasbora will thrive. All of this makes Chili Rasbors an excellent and versatile addition to many tropical freshwater tanks.

Tank setup

Chili rasbora does best in an aquarium unique to the species. Due to their small size and easy maintenance, they are easy to do without a big budget.

Chili rasbora tank requirements

To provide the best condition for your fish, the school must inhabit an aquarium of at least 10 gallons (37.5 L) with at least eight or more individuals of the same species. Despite their size, these shoal fish are very active and need a decent swimming area to be safe to get sucked into the filtration equipment.

Conditions of water

A hardness range of 18- 179 ppm. The carbonate hardness (KH) should be as low as 0-1 degrees. The Chili Rasbora tank must be kept clean by cleaning the substrate and changing the water through a siphon. The water temperature they need is milder compared to other types of tropical fish.

Aquarium requirements

Chili Rasbora is a school fish and likes to swim in the middle and upper sections of the aquarium. The ideal tank is an individual fish tank where they are the only species. Live plants provide a habitat for foods like worms and plankton, perfect for fish’s tiny mouths. Make a great addition to a large tank as a massive school of moving colors. Keep the water temperature from 68 to 82 F and the pH from 4.0 to 7.0.

Habitat and tank conditions for Chili Rasbora (Boraras brigittae)

Fine sand and small gravel are ideal for tiny Chili Rasboras. Blackwater streams dominate its natural environment in Borneo. If you include live plants in your aquarium, not only will they have a canopy to explore, but the plants will also provide shelter for plankton and worms. The vegetation cover will lower the light intensity in the tank, encouraging more movement and brighter colors. If you keep them in a big container with plenty of space, you’ll have a vast, impressive school that can produce a moving lighting show in your aquarium.

Take care

Chili Rasboras are not resistant to changes in water parameters. They have a tendency to die if their tanks are not properly maintained. Perform tests to check if everything is ok in the tank and do weekly maintenance in the aquarium, changing the water and cleaning up debris. You must quarantine newly acquired and sick fish and proceed with the necessary treatment.

Water filtration for Chili Rasbora Care

Size your filtration correctly, but remember to keep the flow low and even. You can use driftwood, rocks, and other ornaments to create less water flow within the aquarium, providing a resting place for the fish.

Chili rasboras and water temperature

Like other tropical fish, Boraras brigittae can adapt to varying temperatures. Use a heater to keep the water temperature stable between 68 and 82 F. If exposed to the sun for more than 30 minutes, monitor the temperatures to ensure the tank is not too hot.

Chili rasbora tank mates

The minimal size of chili rasbora makes them incompatible with many fish. The cardinal neon tetra is a peaceful fish and a great tank mate for rasboras. Cory pygmy is always a great addition to nano aquariums. More active swimmers in medium and high water will stress other fish and should be avoided. Betta fish eat things that fit in their mouth, including chili rasbora; they are not compatible.

Compatibility And Tankmates

Chili rasboras are calm and shy fish, an excellent choice for a community aquarium. Invertebrates such as shrimp and snails make great aquarium companions. Dwarf shrimp and aquatic snails can help control algae growth and are an excellent addition to your aquarium. You want to choose tank mates that are small, confident, and peaceful, that have an affinity for soft, acidic water with a low flow rate.

Tank Mates

Avoid animals that display aggressive and angry personalities, such as Bettas, Loaches, and most barbs. The phoenix and rasboras pygmy make good tank companions. Harlequin Rasbora is also a trendy choice as its colors complement the Chili Rasbora colors very well. Other peaceful dwarf shrimp are cherry shrimp, Amano shrimp, and ghost shrimp. You can also introduce Nerite or Mystery apple snails.

Food and Diet Recommendations

In the wild, they eat microscopic food sources such as plankton, larvae, all kinds of small invertebrates, and more. In captivity, fish eat almost anything as long as it fits in their mouths. Fish do very well on a balanced diet of fish flakes or small pellets. To supplement dry food, feel free to provide micro worms, tubifex, brine shrimp nauplii, and Daphnia. Fish are known as micro predators, but they are also pinching biofilm and some plant matter.

Food and Diet

As you might guess, tiny species require small foods. In the wild, they eat all kinds of microscopic foods like plankton and worms. You need to keep the fish on various foods, such as baby brine shrimp, pellets, flakes, bloodworms, etc.

Diet

Boraras is a micro predator and feeds on small insects, worms, crustaceans, and other zooplankton. It is a kind of shoal in nature and should be kept in a group of at least 8 to 10 specimens. Males also display their best colors and exciting behavior as they compete to get the female’s attention. It is also an ideal companion for timid anabantoids like Sphaerichthys or Parosphromenus.

Breeding Chili Rasboras

Once they start exhibiting courtship behavior, you will have to feed more often than usual. You can expect your fish to spawn many times throughout the year. Males will try to dominate each other and establish a small territory to defend. Once the female has selected her mate, spawning will begin, and the female will lay up to 60 eggs in 24 hours. You can place plants such as Naja grass or Java moss where the female will scatter the eggs, which helps reduce predation. Eggs should hatch within two days.

Reproduction

  1. brigittaeis an egg scatters species. This species does not exhibit parental care. When kept in perfect condition and the presence of both sexes, a relatively short number of eggs are laid each day. In adult fish tanks, fry may begin to appear without human interference. However, to increase the yield of fingerlings, a slightly more cautious approach is needed. Set aside a separate breeding tank of approx 3.5 gallons, fill one part with thin-leaved plants such as java moss, and add a group (already conditioned) of two or three pairs. The breeders must be removed after 48 hours, keep the aquarium with light aeration and wait for the eggs to hatch.

Chili Rasbora Breeding

Chili Rasboras do not have any parental care and will attack and eat your fingerlings. So, if you want to keep the fry, the ideal is to have your breeding tank. When a female is ready to expel eggs, she spreads them all over the bottom of the tank. In the first 24 hours, the fry will consume the yolk sac and small foods such as infusoria. For the first ten days, you can offer micro worms and other micro foods.

Temperament & General Behavior

Chili Rasboras are very peaceful fish and sometimes become shy. When they feel comfortable, they explore the entire tank. The school performs beautiful maneuvers in the aquarium. It is not uncommon to find this fish looking for hiding places or swimming in the vegetation.

Chili rasbora behavior

Even though they are tiny, these fish are very active swimmers. They remain in the middle and upper column, although they can sometimes get food from the bottom of the tank.

Activity level

Chili rasbora is an active fish, and the school often spends time in the middle section of the aquarium. If you have groups of these fish, they will be more confident, whereas if you only have one or two of them, they will likely hide behind your plants.

Life span

The fish usually live between four and eight years, with five being the average. Maintain optimal water and tank conditions for your fish to live to the fullest. You can expect – if properly handled – to have your Chili’s lovely colors decorate your tank.

Diseases to watch out for

Chili Rasboras do not have diseases considered species-specific. The problems are the same as those affecting tropical freshwater fish as a whole. Ich is an external parasite that produces white spots all over the body of fish. You can avoid this by following proper water conditions and feeding fish a balanced diet. The most important thing to keep fish happy and healthy is to keep the water quality in optimum condition and provide them healthy food.

Do you want one for yourself?

Chili Rasboras are tiny animals that are easy and perfect to keep in a nano tank. They are great for people without a lot of space or looking for something small to include in their room. We’ve been big fans of this particular species for several years, and we regularly recommend them to other fishkeepers. We hope this guide has motivated you to give them a chance and put them in your aquarium. Cute little creatures are straightforward to care for and a lot of fun swimming around your aquarium.

[Detailed Guide] Frogspawn Coral : Care, Diet, Feeding, Lifespan And More

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Frogspawn Coral

Have triple-tipped tentacles, which stay open all the time, resembling several hundred frog eggs. It is a large polyp stony coral (LPS) and is one of the most notable species in the hobby, mainly because of its balance with the flow of water. Frogspawn Coral is related in growth and care needs to its Euphyllia cousins, the Torch and Hammer coral. See below for care tips for this coral.

What does the frogspawn coral look like?

Frogspawn corals are one of several types of large polyp stone corals. Frogspawn corals are found in several varieties, with different colored tips on their tentacles. Frogspawn can branch quickly, unlike Frog Coral. The brighter the color of the tentacles tips, the more commercial value the coral will have.

Summary

When water flows through its polyps, the mesmerizing effect is immense. It fits nicely between “easy and moderate” difficulty and is a beautiful introduction to coral care for beginners. As long as you follow basic care guidelines and are consistent, you will enjoy the beauty of its stunning aesthetic appeal for a while.

Summary of species

Australia, Fiji, Southeast Asia, Soloman Island, and the Ryukyu Islands provide accessible finding locations for Euphyllia divisa. Unlike other coral species, Frogspawn polyps are outdoors 24 hours a day, seven days a week, so they are ideal in any home aquarium. The coral frog is an extremely hardy species that can tolerate a wide range of environmental factors. It is known to be aggressive towards other corals searching for space, but they end up in small colonies. Its ideal environment is at a depth of 120-140 feet and thrives in dirtier waters.

How do I care for frogspawn coral?

Euphyllia divisa, also called Frogspawn coral, is the most popular large polyp stony (LPS) coral in the reef hobby. The name Frogspawn was inspired by its attractive multi-tipped tentacles the resemble the mass of the frog eggs. This species is resistant, semi-aggressive, and can attain rapid growth spurts in favorable water conditions. This report provides some insights into the captive care of Frogspawn corals. They consist of eating behavior, location and care tips, and much more.

How do I care for the coral frogs in my reef tank?

Frogspawn coral is a highly adaptable LPS coral available in the hobby. It is essential to know how to keep your tank healthy as a whole. This website has everything you need to know about care for your corals, including light requirements, water flow preference, feeding habits, and more. It will also cover light needs and eating habits for the Frogspawn corals in your reef tank.

How do I care for Euphyllia divisa?

For success in seawater aquariums, the key is to provide the reef inhabitants with optimal water. Coral should be placed in an equipped and stable aquarium for healthy living.

Care placement & feeding tips

Frogspawn coral (Euphyllia divisa) is an excellent choice for owners of reef aquariums. Extensive polyp coral stony is magnificent for viewing. Despite its popularity, there is a lot of false information on the internet about the care of frogspawn coral. The guide tells you everything you want to know about frogspawn coral keeping.

Coral Care Sheet Frogspawn (Euphyllia divisa)

They are famous for being among the most beneficial species for coral reef exploration. Many experienced reefers are still using them because it’s beautiful to look at and are affordable.

Frogspawn Corals Care and Breeding Guide

Frogspawn corals have flowing tentacles and are an excellent addition to any reef tank. Scientifically the species is called Euphillia divisa. Rounded lobes help it from the hammer coral. Their identity is usually determined by the shape of the polyp rather than the delicate skeletal. They are very colorful too, which allows for great ornamental use.

Frogspawn Coral Guide: In-depth information for beginners

This article provides crucial info regarding frogspawn corals such as water quality, lightning, greatest threats, etc. This detailed guide has been created to help novices develop into experts.

Getting to know frogspawn coral

Frogspawn Corals have a full-body look with softly waving tentacles that remind viewers of an anemone. Frogspawn Coral are perfect beginner corals thanks to their unrivaled light and nutrition requirements. Coral frogs are very friendly with the others Euphyllia. Those guys have the power to be capable of advance in the terrain by displaying aggression against other corals. Generally, these corals prefer moderate intensity light, and a mild current is vital for them. This coral can grow in various heads and can be easily propagated.

Natural habitat and appearance

Frogspawn corals are very fleshy and show quite a lot of movement, similar to hard corals. Most species of corals are found primarily at sites near the Philippines, Indonesia, and on the Coasts of Australia. They are divided into two major groups: wall type and branching coral. They each have long tentacles which can trip to triple or double in length when necessary. As for color, tentacles usually are yellow-green and brown, with bright colored tips. The red, pink, purple, and white tips combined with lighter colors in the tentacles themselves create excellent contrast – one reason for putting such coral in your aquarium.

Frogspawn Coral Placement And Temperament In The Aquarium

Frogspawn coral doesn’t require much light and has natural habitats in indirect sunlight. They can not be placed on any substrate because their tentacles can get stuck under hard surfaces and cause serious harm. Additionally, it would be best not to put the frogspawn coral beside other corals because of its sweeper tentacles. If your coral begins to pale and lose color, then it may get too much light. If placed in contact with a coral – be prepared for chemical warfare within your tank. Keep these away from other aggressive Euphyllia, i.e., bubble corals.

Origins and Habitat

Frogspawn corals can be found in large colonies around reef sites in Southeast Asia and Australia. The corals seem to prefer turbid waters with mild currents and mud beds. As species Euphyllia, Frogspawns have sweeper tentacles containing stinging nematocysts that can be used to catch plankton. There is sometimes space between frogspawn coral and the next coral on the coral reef. Therefore there usually is a distance between the following species to it.

Habitat of frogspawn corals

Frogspawn coral is a species of coral found in a variety of reef regions in Asia and Australia. It forms colonies on relatively deep turbid water reef slopes to a depth of 40 m (131 ft).

Lighting

The range from 130 to 200 PAR is good for Frogspawn coral. These corals reside in the region, which has its maximum depth of 40 m, and the sun is continuing to illuminate the reef. Moderate or even extreme light is excellent for Coral frogs spawning. Directly affecting FrogspawnFrogspawn with solid lighting may cause necrosis (= tissue death).

Water quality

Alkalinity, calcium, pH, temperature, and water flow are all essential parameters of coral survival. If you keep these five parameters balanced, you have little to worry about. The most significant water parameters are 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.022-1.025.

Placement in the tank

Do not place corals on areas where the flow of water is rapid and direct because it may cause lateral aeration and would not permit them to filter. It is not recommended to pack them together because they tend to contend with other corals for space in the reef tank.

Placement in a reef tank

Coral frogs aren’t as inconsistent when it comes to their placement. Many times they’re placed in the center of the aquarium as a central piece. Also, be sure to leave 6 to 10 inches of space for the Frogspawn coral inside the tank.

Frogspawn Coral Placement

The proper placement of the Frogspawn coral is an excellent part of the puzzle. In general, you’d like to try and position it near the middle or top portions of the tank with a 6 to 8-inch buffer between it and other coral. The reason behind this buffer is that it’s not only good-sized but also really aggressive too. It has its sweeping tentacles they use to clear space for themselves by hurting surrounding coral. These do not make anyone laugh, and frogspawn corals come out on top in the real estate battle. If your lighting is deficient, you’ll most likely want the coral to move closer to the top of the aquarium than towards the middle.

Frogspawn Corals and Tankmates

Clownfish were found inside frogspawn corals in reef tanks. Clownfish can easily damage corals causing infections like brown jelly. Frogspawn coral doesn’t enjoy being disturbed. They are also known to be dangerous to hermit crabs.

Compatibility with other species

Two aggressive corals close together guarantee one war to their death. Some frogspawn corals aren’t as heavy as some corals might be. They are entirely dominant over the territory using their sweeper tentacles. For the frogs, a good tankmate is a clownfish or a cardinal; leave parrot fish away. You should pay a little attention to even the dwarf angels.

What are good tankmates for frogspawn corals?

Frogspawn corals can live with a range of fish and invertebrates. Their soft fleshy polyps can be interesting for some species, so it is vital in keeping the population safe and protected. You must note that some clownfish can attempt to host the coral-like a small anemone. Hermit crabs and shrimps could also pose a risk to FrogspawnFrogspawn if they were not totally reef safe. The type of fish that will pick up corals must also be avoided.

Frogspawn Coral

Corals such as FrogspawnFrogspawn are generally pretty forgiving in the end; however, they can still get scratch and get some nasty bits in your eye. Protect yourself first.

Appearance

It can branch out in an area relatively quickly. Some of the most popular colors that stand out are green and yellow. The brilliant color makes the light effects terrific, and this unique feeling can change the aesthetics of a tank, making this coral attractive. This coral is something to see and makes it look even better when combined with exciting lighting! The structure of this kind varies depending on what you can afford. The tentacle color can be a pale color like white or a bright pink variation.

Frogspawn Coral

Description of Frogspawn Corals

Frogspawn corals form large colonies with corallite walls which arise on the outer edges; these corallites are thin and sharp. Frogspawn coral tentacles are dense, lumpy, and long; some branches branch into double-skeletal or single heads at each end are vividly colored tips. These polyps resemble an outwardly bubble-like appearance which resembles a mass Frog – spawning (frog eggs).

Care and maintenance of frogspawn corals

Regular inspection, tests, and a good water changes plan are crucial in ensuring the good health of the corals. Assure that these trace ingredients are in the right proportion to maintain good health for good growing conditions. A damaged coral should be removed from the rest and placed in a quarantine tank for proper treatment; this helps prevent further illnesses. It would be best to examine the corals regularly; this goes much further in quickly detecting any damage infections or abnormal changes in their behavior.

Feeding Frogspawn Corals

The coral frogs have a symbiotic relationship and host algae in their tissues; they are called zooxanthellae. This algal feeds through converting light into food. The corals will also capture planktonic organisms, and food particles suspended in the water column and absorb organic material. Regardless of the presence and role of the algae, corals should also receive fresh, live, and meaty foods. You can quickly thaw frozen food to increase the chances that coral can eat it.

Feeding Frogspawn Coral

Frogspawn corals take all the energy using algae. The algae converting sunlight for food. It only matters about water quality and light. If you have other corals that need to be supplied, we recommend feeding them.

What do Frogspawn corals eat?

If you feed Frogspawn coral more giant foods like fish and shrimp, it may be harmful; the polyp will view this eating as a threat that will force it to retract. Feeding LPS Corals promotes good health and growth. Feed it with proper food for corals and beware of overfeeding, which can deteriorate the water quality.

Feeding

In their natural habitat, Frogspawn corals feed on nutrients and organic materials captured by them. The feeding process is a little easier in captivity. You’ll want to use common foods such as brine shrimp, plankton, and meaty frozen foods. There is no downside to trying pellet food, as long as you do not negatively impact water quality. The only advice given to you is to experiment and test yourselves!

The behavior of Frogspawn Corals

Nevertheless, corals of other genera belonging to the Euphylliidae family are not excluded from hostility as viewed from their location. As large colonies grow, they can expand tentacles up to 25 cm when a case poses a threat to nearby coral species because of the potent sting it delivers. Some species and fish of the vicinity will benefit frogspawn corals by commensalism. As observed, the polyps extend throughout the day and only partly at night.

How to propagate frogspawn corals

The coral frog is one of the fastest-growing species of Euphyllia. If your cut is successful, it can lead to great success. You will need a scalpel or scissors. After removing the seedlings from the coral, please leave it in a low-stress environment until it recovers.

Frogspawn Coral

Fragging and propagation Frogspawn Coral

Frogspawn corals produce sexual and asexual reproduction. In the wild, they perform sexual reproduction by releasing gametes into the water, resulting in a fertilized egg. Afterward, planula larva will develop into a tiny polyp that excretes calcium carbonate and then develops into corals. As seen in aquariums, Frogspawn coral will have an abundance of small polyps. They can then fragment individual Polyps in response to stressful stresses. These polyps will move to other places, and a new colony will be started.

Propagation

The propagation of Frogs is something new owners want to understand. There are some sophisticated ways experienced owners use to propagate new corals, but they will be limited to the basics. To begin with, identify a chunk of healthy, solid-colored coral with good visibility of polyps and minimal damage, then cut into the parts you want to become a colony. The next step is to follow the basic principles of Frogspawn coral placement. Choosing a high-quality location in a marine aquarium is a simple and efficient way to place the polyp that will become a colony. You need to tie it to the rock or turn it on. There’s no point in doing anything after that!

Health And Disease

Frogspawn coral is a resistant species of LPS, but it can die quickly if its maintenance is irregular. All corals require the correct lighting to keep their tentacles preserved. If their tentacles are scraped against a rock or placed in a higher stream, they can succumb to stress, infection, or brown jelly disease. To help prevent the disease from entering your reef, it’s recommended to conduct an iodine or coral bath and quarantine the reef for a week when you get new coral.

Potential problems associated with Frogspawn Coral

The brown jelly disease is caused by poor water quality or tissue damage and premature tissue destruction. Brown flatworm is a worm widely found in reefkeeping that can destroy your frogs. Rust brown flatworms can thrive in tanks with high nutrients in large populations. All the species can firmly be attached to Frogrespawn corals and blocked access to the body’s cells. They can also be tackled using natural predators such as the Blue Velvet Nudibranch (Chelidonura varians) and Wrasses.

In conclusion

Frogspawn coral is vibrant, charming, engaging, and perfect for the beginner. There can be a few options for getting one for an aquarium reef as well. It is very fast-growing, light maintenance, attractive colors, and soft sway of the long mulled tentacles in turbulent water currents. The coral is an excellent addition to reef aquariums.

Closing thoughts

Frogspawn corals are one of the best corals for beginners, intermediates, and advanced hobbyists. They are easy to care for, offer various colors, and mimic an anemone. These corals need moderate light and moderate flow but will soon begin growing new polyps once established. Feeding is not required, and the coral can be cut if necessary. I hope you learned many things about taking care of a Frogspawn Coral and answered any problems you might have faced.

The Complete Denison barb (aka Roseline Shark) Guide : Care, Diet, Lifespan And More

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Denison barb (aka Roseline Shark)

Denison barb(aka Roseline Sharks), torpedo barb, Red-line Torpedo Barb, or simple Sahyadria denisonii are some names of cyprinid species endemic to the states of Kerala and Karnataka in southern India, inhabiting fast-flowing rivers and mountain streams of the Western Ghats. It is commonly seen in the aquarium industry. It is a highly peaceful fish species, despite its quick movements and relatively large size. The commercial exploitation of the species for aquarium purposes has placed it in the position of an endangered species. They are very active fish when in the right tank conditions.

Species Overview

Denison’s barb is a torpedo-shaped fish up to 6 inches in length. It is also known as Red Line Barb, Red Lined Torpedo Barb, Barb Miss Kerala Roseline, Shark Torpedos. They are usually silver in color with a bright red line on the first half of the body and the dorsal fin. This species is classified as a type of barb.

Introduction

Denison Barb is a tropical fish species relatively new to hobby and science. It is native to southwestern India and has a marked red line running from the eye to the fish’s midsection; this line also runs along the front of the dorsal fin. Underneath the red line, they present a black stripe, running along the entire side of the body in its midline. As the fish matures, the grayish-green color starts to appear on the skin. Overfishing caused by the high demand for fishkeeping led to the almost disappearance of these barbs in the wild. Pollution, growth of populated areas, and deforestation are among the other causes for the decline in the population of Denison barb. Adult male fish can easily reach 6 inches and require large tanks with enough space for a school to swim freely.

Origin and distribution

It was first described in 1865 as being endemic to the states of Kerala, and southern Karnataka in southwestern India, often called the Malabar Coast. They live in shoals, in streams, lakes, and rivers that have dense vegetation and rock formations, with water rich in oxygen. Overfishing is a critical factor in suppressing wild populations. Efforts have been made to combat this by instituting periods when collection cannot be permitted and commercial breeding programs in East Asia and Southeast Europe. However, the species remains endangered and on the IUCN Red List.

Introducing Denison Barb

In adulthood, the Denison barbs are 4.3 to 6 in long. In the wild, this tropical fish lives in lakes, streams, and rivers with a strong water flow. You will need to replicate the fish’s natural habitat in an aquarium by providing a filtration system with high-flow pumps. Denison barbs live in large schools and are peaceful fish.

Colors and markings

Long and torpedo-shaped, you can easily see the reasons why some call it the Redlined Torpedo Barb. The silver body is separated by a black line that runs throughout the body, from muzzle to tail. The dorsal and caudal fins are also bright red; the caudal end is streaked with grey. Mature specimens are known to produce a greenish color on the head. Recently, a golden variant was developed by breeders, it has the classic red stripes of these barbs, but it cannot match the black line of the wild variety. It can reach 15 centimeters in length and can be found in almost any aquarium store globally.

Denison barb (aka Roseline Shark)

Caring for Denison barber

Denison Barbs react exceptionally well with the life at the aquarium. These fish are not considered suitable for novice amateurs, but this is more linked to the fact that they need large spaces, as the Denison’s Barb is exceptionally resistant and adaptable.

Origins of Denison barbarian

Denison Barb hails from southwestern India; its modern distribution is highly fragmented, with small populations remaining in the Valapatanam, Chaliyar, Kallar, Karyangod, Kuttiyadi, Chandragiri, Sully, Kuppam, Iritti, Anjarakandipuzha, Bhavani, and Bharatapuzha river systems. The Roseline shark is a victim of its popularity. Because of overexploitation due to its high demand, combined with increasing pollution and deforestation destroying its natural habitat, it is listed as an endangered species on the IUCN list. Most of the Denison barb you can now buy comes from Kerala (Calicut) in India. In recent years, measures to combat these problems have included periods when the fish collection is not allowed, along with encouraging commercial breeding programs in different parts of the world.

Denison Barb Habitat and Care

As the Denison barb overgrows and becomes relatively large, it needs large tanks with a capacity of over 55 gallons. The tank should be extended, providing all the space necessary for the school to swim freely in open areas. You can use rocks and driftwood to create hideouts and caves. Their temperature range is vast; they are collected in places where the water has low temperatures, around 59 F, going up to 77 F. These fishes do not tolerate Nitrogen and organic matter in the water very well, so regular water changes. Tank sanitation is essential to maintain the health of this species. This species needs high levels of oxygen and pure water. The main success factor for keeping the species, besides the water, is always clean is the space in the tank.

Denison Barb fish profile – care feeding breeding and care

Denison Barb is a hardy species that performs well if kept in schools with at least six individuals. It requires large tanks measuring 55 gallons or more.

Origin and appearance

Denison barbs prefer fast-moving waters, rivers with rocky and muddy banks, and substrate with dense vegetation to hide within. Its coloration against a silver body has a red band up to the middle of the body, underneath it has a dark bar that runs the length of the fish. Its lifespan can be up to 5 years, as long as the species is well maintained.

Denison barb (aka Roseline Shark)

Colors and marking

Sahyadri denisonii is a silverfish with a black lateral line running from snout to tail. In contrast, a bright scarlet line runs parallel to the black stripe that extends to the mouth through the fish’s eyes. The scarlet line continues to the center of the body. Recently, various species have appeared with a golden body and without the typical black band of the wild type. Sahyadri uses two “barbels” to find food. The adult Deniso’s tail and front are also bright scarlets.

Denison Barb Care Guide

A 55-gallon horizontal aquarium is a minimum size to hold a group of six Denison barb. If you want to build larger schools, you need a much larger aquarium. Keep water pH at 6.5-7.8 and hardness at 90 to 447 ppm. The ideal temperature range is 59°F to 77°F. They like well-lit tanks.

Maintenance

Denison barb will thrive in environments with lots of plants or in forest streams. You can use a high-tech system in densely planted environments, as these fish live quietly in well-lit environments. This second comprises a soft clear substrate, root trunks, and leaf debris, with the lighting tending to low. You can also add aquatic plants that can survive under such conditions as Microsorum, Taxifyllum, or Cryptocoryne.

Water parameters

The temperature inside the tank should be around 68 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature is a little below the typical tropical environment. The pH of the water should range between 6.5 and 7.8. Regular tank cleaning is essential as these fish do not tolerate high levels of pollutants or organic matter. It is not a typical barb for the beginner, but if the water in the aquarium is always in ideal condition and the size of the tank is adequate, there should be no problems.

Filtration

As mentioned earlier, in addition to correctly and efficiently sizing biological and mechanical filtration to remove particulates and pollutants, Denison barbs need a fast-flowing stream to be comfortably maintained. It’s a good idea to use an extra pump to keep the water moving and stimulate gas exchange in your tank.

Tank Size

Do not use any small aquarium. A 50-gallon tank is a minimum needed to keep a small group. Hiding spots such as logs and rocks are valuable additions to the pond, as are live plants. Plants that are easily uprooted are not recommended, so choose harder and more resistant plants; make sure they are well anchored. An extra pump is welcome to ensure continuous and even water circulation.

Tank size and habitat

Denison barb lives in rocky Indian underwater habitats with dense vegetation. A tank with little decoration and no places to hide is not recommended, as the fish can feel stressed. Although not territorial, they are fast and highly active swimmers, especially during feeding. When choosing a substrate for the aquarium, use sand or gravel; use stones without edges and pebbles of different sizes for an aesthetic effect.

Denison Barb Tank Mates

Denison barbs are best kept in schools of 6 or more for comfort. Great tank mates you can include are other pacific barbs, large size tetras, cichlids, and rainbow fish are compatible. When maintained with ample area, excellent tank mates, a school of at least six species, and the correct water standards, you will have no problem keeping Denison Barbs.

Sexual differences

Adult Denison barb females tend to be a little smaller, have a heavier body, and are sometimes much less colorful than adult males.

Denison Barb Breeding

In the wild, the breeding season for Denison barbs is October to March. There are some reports of spawning in home aquariums, but they are still rare. There are commercial reproduction programs, and there are still few scientific articles addressing their reproduction, but those published are of significant impact.

Breeding

The process for creating them is complex and not suitable for the average home hobbyist. The induced developmental process involves manipulating water chemistry, complex feeding regimens, and the use of hormones. Fish breed in the wild from October to March. These times vary from river to river.

Denison Barb Diet

Denisons are omnivorous fish with varied tastes. Offer them a mix of meaty treats such as shrimp, daphnia, cyclops, and bloodworms. You should also include the vegetable matter in the diet, and you can also add fresh vegetables, algae, and spirulina wafers to your diet.

Diet and feeding Denison Barb

Denison Barb is an omnivorous species and must enjoy multiple food sources for optimal health. Live, fresh food is excellent. In addition, spirulina, seaweed, and even vegetables are welcome. For optimal health, you should feed them an extensive range of meat-based ingredients and vegetarian foods.

Diet

Wild Denison barbs are likely for vegetables, small insects, crustaceans, worms, and other zooplankton. Keeping it at an adequate number will make the fish much more confident and produce a more natural appearance in the school.

Final thoughts

The Denison Barb, a beautiful fish of Indian origin, is an excellent choice for long-time aquarists. You will need a layout that resembles a natural river or mountain stream environment with milder conditions and a strong water flow to keep the active Denison barb happy. Fish have characteristic red lines and sides to create spectacular displays and require a lot of space to swim. This species is best suited for an aquarist with a large tank with plenty of room to swim in a natural river environment or a mountain stream with cold and robust conditions.

Detailed Guide: Blue Velvet Shrimp – Care, Diet, Lifespan, Breeding And More

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Blue Velvet Shrimp Care

The blue velvet shrimp is a variation of the blue color of the cherry shrimp. They are small members of the cleaning team, designed to clean biofilm and algae that form on the surfaces of your vegetation. Follow all the facts and secrets about these beautiful blue creatures. The Blue Velvet shrimp is a species of crustacean popular with aquarium enthusiasts.

Blue Velvet Shrimp Care: The Complete Guide

Blue velvet shrimp is a freshwater shrimp species that look stunning. Its vibrant blue hue is almost fake when you see it. There are some excellent numbers of aquarists who want one or two on their aquarium. These shrimp are easy to care for and beneficial for your entire tank. Though this animal is low on maintenance, there will be something you will need to provide to them. This article will give you the basics regarding this shrimp care.

Summary of species

The Blue Velvet Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) is a unique freshwater species prevalent in the aquarium trade. This species is just a different color variation from the red cherry shrimp, which is pretty popular. There are no clear explanations for how color changes occur. In your tank, it spends most of its time scavenging for organic matter, including algae and biofilm.

What is a blue velvet shrimp?

The blue Velvet Shrimp is the color morph of the Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi). It comes from the Atyidae family of freshwater shrimp. This color doesn’t occur in the wild. When fully grown, they usually reach around 1 inch but only live for 1 to 2 years. They can also be placed within tanks of five gallons. The color is determined based on the proportion of blue relative to black on the shrimp body. Usually, shrimp is used to clean algae.

Species Overview, Appearance & Origin

The species are freshwater dwarf shrimps and can grow for as little as 1.5-2 inches. They have a cerulean color body which can variably range from light to intense colors. Their origin is still debated – and not a clear answer is yet expected. Many varieties currently sold from hobbyists and tank owners are farmed and reared, but some are wild and originate in Southeast Asia, such as Taiwan. Their natural habitat lives in freshwater surroundings like streams and ponds with rocky floors amidst numerous plants and wood for concealing and feeding requirements.

Appearance

They have the typical shrimp body with three pairs of walking feet and two maxillipeds. Their abdomen is relatively thick and begins to taper off just before the thorax. They may have relatively soft antennae which move at regular intervals. Their head, tail, feet, and abdomen are roughly the same color. There may also be light dots; These are more condensed in the rear of the body. These shrimp’s eyes often have as much darker color as those from other types in nature.

Blue Velvet Shrimp Care

Cute but just tiny meals 🙁

They are amazing. But you know, they are small enough that little fish can devour them in a day! So be careful with your choice of tank mates.

Life span

Blue-velvet shrimps survive for roughly one to two years. Lifespan will ultimately depend on the quality of the breeding and on the care the tank provides during its lifecycle.

Shrimp overview

Blue Velvet Shrimp are selectively raised from chocolate shrimp born in Taiwan. Blue Velvet Shrimp are straightforward to care for because they can adapt to an extensive range of water conditions. It’s relatively easy for them to breed within an aquarium. Female shrimp carry the eggs for about 30 days until they hatch. We recommend you keep only one variety of Neocaridina shrimps within the tank because of crossbreeding. Crossbreeding also reverts the offspring to wild color. You can keep blue velvet shrimp in soft or hard water. Freshwater shrimp is excellent in fighting algae and eat food leftovers. It is best when kept in mature tanks. These shrimp have to be held in a tank with small fish which will not eat them.

The origin of Blue Velvet Shrimp and Blue Dream Shrimp

Some shrimp breeders believe Blue Dream, Neocaridina originated from Carbon Riili shrimp. Other shrimp lovers believe the blue Velvet shrimp are the result of Crossbreeding. We should never cross breed Blue Dream shrimp with Blue Velvet shrimp. The Blue Jelly shrimp with the Red color is known as the Blue Jelly or the Blue Velvet. Blue Velvet is the result of different genetic types. As a result, it will cause offspring with varying coloration.

Difference between Blue Velvet Shrimp and Blue Dream Shrimp

There is lots of confusing information about the blue color and different names in the shrimp hobby. There can be hardly any uniform assessment system for different colored variations. Because of this growing popularity, shrimp are creating their pattern or color variations. For example, now in the market, you can find Blue velvet shrimp, Blue topaz shrimp, Blue Diamond Shrimp, Blue Fairy Shrimp, and other varieties.

Detailed Guide to Blue Velvet Shrimp: Care, Diet

Neocaridina davidi var. ‘Blue Velvet’ requires little care, rapidly reproduces, and is fun to watch. It could easily live in any tropical freshwater aquarium. They can be highly active, productive, and quite hardy shrimps. All these characteristics make it perfect for beginners shrimp keepers as well as more experienced keepers. This shrimp is a great example of Red Cherry shrimp who are very hardy and adjust quickly to their new environment.

Size

Blue Velvets Shrimp is typically 1.5 inches when fully grown, but some females can reach up to 2 “. Their size is dictated by genetic components and the quality of their care in their developing stages.

Blue Velvet Shrimp Care

Blue Velvet Shrimp Care Guide

Blue Velvet Shrimp are sensitive to water quality and can be difficult to acclimate to a new tank. One major issue is copper and zinc poisoning. These metals are present in fertilizers and some fish medicines. Everything that you put in your water shouldn’t contain chemicals. If you must treat one of your fish and there is no safe option, you should remove all shrimp from the tank while the medicine is taken. A helpful rule of precaution is that shrimp’s blue vivid color will fade if the water quality in your tank is in poor condition. The most effective way to acclimatize them is using the dripping method.

Keeping Blue Velvet Shrimp

Dwarf shrimps don’t tolerate ammonia or nitrites in the water. They don’t need a large aquarium; they can flourish in a 5-gallon tank. It’s also competent to adapt to almost any kind of water. Don’t forget to acclimate carefully. Use proper filtration in the shrimp tank. Plants will provide hiding places, extra space for food and can play an essential role in the nitrogen cycle. It’s a great idea to add live plants to the shrimp tanks.

Blue Velvet Shrimp Care

The Blue Velvet Shrimp require little to no maintenance, and they need no specific care of their owner. But there are some particular water parameters and conditions must be satisfied for shrimp to live long and well.

Blue Velvet Shrimp Care Guide & Tank Set Up For Beginners

Blue Velvet shrimp adds a special touch to any hobbyist’s tank. They became popular with people because of their colors and ease of maintenance. Plus, they will rid your tank of the undesirable algae. This guide will show you how to care for blue velvet shrimp and offer the proper tank conditions for the long term most possible. The guide also provides a guide for handling and maintain shrimps in your tank.

Blue velvet shrimp tank requirements

Cherry Shrimps inhabit densely cultivated areas in freshwater rivers in Taiwan. They have a home within groupings of moss usually shaded by long leafy plants. They live near the substrate where the light is small and where they have enough room to hide. In these freshwater waters, the flow remains low, and decaying plant material allows the pH to fluctuate between primary and mild acid conditions.

Blue shrimps requirements

The best start should be a 5-gallon aquarium. Use plenty of live plants to provide safety for your shrimp. Shrimp are highly sensitive to ammonia and nitrite, so this need always is clear from your tank water. Tubes, caves, and driftwood can be used as hide-outs for shrimp when they are ready to molt. If you want to breed blue velvet, be sure to use a sponge filter or at least one prefilter sponge as the fry is tiny, the filtration system can quickly suck them in the filter.

Blue velvet shrimp water quality

Blue velvet shrimp is an underdeveloped and less sensitive dwarf shrimp variety. Keep water parameters stable and use a test kit to ensure it. Even living in places with fluctuating temperatures, a heater to keep the temperature stable is welcome. These shrimp are hardy yet need stable conditions.

Water parameters

Blue velvet shrimp can be easily adapted to their surroundings. It can tolerate temperatures from around 64°F to as high as 82°F. The higher your temperature, the faster it will grow, breed, and die. It’s preferably recommended to store it around 72 F, where the shrimps can breed adequately and live longer. When it comes to pH, it typically prefers a neutral environment, ideally between 6.5 to 8.

Aquarium setup

It would be best if you kept this shrimp in at least five-gallon tanks. The water temperature can range from 57° to 84°F; however, between 72 and 80°F is best. Your filter mustn’t be strong enough to injure or suck the shrimp – a sponge filter is your safest option. You can also use any light intensity, as long that there is some shade in some part of the tank. Plants are the most necessary part of this tank installation. Large leafed plants have vast biofilm deposits as well as attract large algae.

The Nitrogen Cycle

Ammonia nitrite or nitrate is the only weakness of Blue Velvet shrimp. They won’t tolerate and may die if exposed to nitrogenate pollutants. Before adding shrimp to your tank, ensure appropriate bacterial colonies have been established in the filters of your system and that the filtering system is cycled. Nitrate can be taken away by plants or removed from water changes. If you want to know more about the nitrogen cycle and how to cycle your tank, look at our article about it.

What to put in their tank

The ideal Blue Velvet Shrimp tank will be well planted. Plants also serve to provide food to these critters. Java Moss is a popular choice that works well. Rocks and driftwood are fantastic surfaces for algae and biofilm to accumulate. These shrimp species prefer rocky sides but will sift and soak into the soil with a good environment.

Plants & Decor

Live plant activities play a vital role in the nitrogen cycle by eliminating nitrates. Besides, these shrimps have their hiding places where they can be located that make sure they are completely protected. Rocks, caves, and bogwood add crucial layers to your shrimp stock. Ornaments increase the surface area on which algae and bacteria grow, shrimp’s leading diet and nutrition.

Blue Velvet Shrimp Tankmates

In the wild, shrimps are one of fish’s favorite dishes. Almost all fish eat shrimp. The best tankmates for blue velvet shrimp are all types of snails. Check my guides for Malay Trumpet snails, Mystery snails, Ramshorn Snails, Rabbit Snails, White Wizard Snails, and Nerite snails. It would be best if you didn’t have blue shrimp with other Neocaridina species.

Tank Mates

Blue Velvet Shrimp may be combined with Amano Shrimp and Bamboo Shrimp. When it comes to fish, you need to be pickier. Peacefully-oriented species that aren’t too big and aren’t aggressive are an excellent choice. The safest approach is to leave out all types of fish, but for now, we recognize it is not the most attractive option. Many aquarists wonder whether or not it can be successful to pair Blue Velvet shrimp with Betta fish. We do not recommend this because its effectiveness seems to be inconsistent.

The tank mate for blue velvet shrimps

In the wild, these shrimp live in large groups. They live alongside native fish, including smaller cyprinids, catfish, and loaches. Your fish tank mate shouldn’t be big enough to put this cute shrimp in your mouth. Nano fish like Oto catfish, corys, Chili Rasboras, Lampeyes, and Endlers will make your best combination. Smaller fish that generally only eat micro prey are safe to keep with blue velvet shrimp. A good tankmate is a peaceful creature that doesn’t think of shrimp or her babies as food sources. Some fish species in aquariums are friendly enough to coexist with shrimp during the time in the tank. Some methods can help improve fish companionability and compatibility with shrimps. Ensure that the shrimp are given plenty of hiding places from the fish and that the tank is long enough to hold both without constant clash.

Blue velvet shrimp diet

Dwarf shrimp-like blue velvets are omnivores that thrive on diversified diets. You’ll frequently see the animal foraging for biofilm, algae, and debris. There is much excellent shrimp food which works well as a staple diet. You can also offer frozen foods, algae tabs, tropical fish foods, and vegetables.

Diet and feeding

They consume microbiome, biofilm, and algae that accumulate onto the plant leaves and tank parts. If you saw them grazing on your plant’s leaves, don’t be worried. They do not eat live plants; like many shrimp, they will eat everything they can locate at the bottom. They prefer green vegetables like lettuce, spinach, cucumber, and broccoli.

Food & Diet

Blue velvet shrimps are scavenger predators who spend their time searching for all food sources, like algae and biofilm. Standard flakes or fish food pellets are a perfect choice for this species and provide a smooth base diet. Ensure not to overfeed. Overfeeding will cause harmful effects on the shrimp and an increase of ammonia in your tank.

The diet of blue velvet shrimp

As long as an alga or microbe in the water is present, Blue Veal shrimps will generally require minimal food. If you have plants, you can find them constantly looking at them and grazing on them. They will eat dead, rotting, or decomposing plants. The more diverse their diet, the more essential nutrients they’ll have for good growth and molting.

Breeding blue velvet shrimp

The shrimp is a good breeder and a good breeding project to create your own. During pregnancy, the female will carry small eggs, which hatch into mini shrimp. The fry can be kept in the same tank as the parents and immediately start forage and eat. Keep your water quality high and provide a diversified diet to keep the shrimp healthy.

Breeding

Put the pair in a breeding tank without fish and keep suitable water parameters. Once the shrimps mate, the female will carry around the eggs under her tail. Your only role in this instance will be to ensure that enough algae and biofilm are left in the tanks for feeding the young ones. It will be their crucial nutrition source, although you may supplement some algae tablets if needed. In roughly 90 days, Blue Velvet Shrimp will be ready for reproduction.

In-Tank Behavior & Temperament

Blue Velvet shrimps can be very social and curious animals. They tend to shy away from their fish companions but do not become violent when near others. They’re very active; you’ll probably find them all over the tank searching for food, which can be funny.

Behavior & Temperament

Blue Shrimp are very straightforward and can easily be kept or bred. Their temperament seems peaceful, so finding friends is easy. Like most shrimp, they prefer being focused on their business, leaving their tank mates alone. You could see them under a rock, on the bare ground near the surface, or practically anywhere. The babies are amazing to watch, thanks to their bright colors.

Common possible diseases

Even most minor copper deposits in your tap water can be deadly. Intoxication is probably the most common mistake a homeowner makes. If you start adding medications to your aquarium, you will likely have to move the shrimp to another tank. Blue Shrimp is often brought in established tanks that have been tested. Put them in mature, well-established tested tanks is usually the best approach! Blue velvet and copper can’t mix. Some fish medication contains significant levels of copper means that you will kill your shrimp while treating your fish.

Final thoughts on blue velvet shrimp

Blue velvet shrimp are a good choice for your freshwater aquarium. They have a beautiful blue color, are fun to watch, easy to breed, and need minimal care. They will continue growing and prospering once you provide them with an appropriate water parameter and another tank setup. We hope this guide will help you decide on becoming a valid Blue Velvet shrimp owner.

Your Red-Eared Slider Not Eating? Here’s What You Can Do

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Red-Eared Slider Not Eating
Red Eared Slider Secrets
Although most red-eared sliders can live up to 45-60 years, most WILL NOT survive 2 years. CLICK HERE to learn more.

After a year, my slider stopped eating, and that worried me. For some reason, I started researching why my Red-Eared Slider Not Eating.

A reptile professional told me that even when turtles mature, they can eat less compared to other species.

He also noted that there are several reasons why some turtles tend to bite less into adulthood. How do I fix this problem? What does this mean?

The main reason for the Red-Eared Slider Not Eating

Significant causes include suboptimal temperature in the tank, dirty water, unhealthy diets, any illness, overfeeding, etc. In this article, I will discuss my entire journey with the dilemma of my Red-Eared Slider not eating. After following a few steps in the maintenance of my turtle, it lost its appetite again. The cause can range from excessive food or dirty water in the tank, inadequate parameters in general.

Red-Eared Slider Not Eating

The ideal habitat specifications

In the enclosure, as they are semi-aquatic animals, they need both an environment with water and a dry one to rest; they can even drown, as they are lungs like us.

The best habitats for them are the so-called aqua terrariums, which are like aquariums. But they have a platform where the turtle can climb to relax and sunbathe.

It should be big enough for the water tiger to have room to grow. Remember, it can be up to 6 times its initial size! In addition, the terrarium must always mimic the pet’s habitat.

Space should have a dimension of 1.50m, ideal for an adult water tiger. Remembering that it is not just a space with water; the installation must have a heating lamp or stone for the animal to perform the thermoregulation.

The temperature of the habitat

Red sliders are ectothermic, whose bodies heat from the environment determines metabolic temperatures. A turtle should not suffer from the heat inside the tank but rather have ideal conditions, not cold water.

The ideal is 78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperature is such a determining factor for these animals; that is, a variation of few degrees can determine the sex of the embryo.

Between 78º C to 82 F males are born, above 82 F females are born. Use a digital thermometer with temperature monitoring to control the reservoir environment.

Temperature and light are related in reptiles; it is essential to respect the photoperiod; in captivity, you must adjust the hours in which the reptile receives sunlight directly or indirectly through lamps to avoid disturbances in hormone levels that cause the appearance of various diseases.

What is the correct diet for a red-eared slider?

They recommend using other ingredients if industrial turtle pellets do not work. You can try live animals, brightly colored fruits and vegetables, or whatever the turtles like.

Try earthworms, mealworms, small fish, and snails in the feeding area. The red-eared sliders lost their appetite after eating the same food for months.

This is probably the primary explanation for why this turtle’s appetite began to wane. I haven’t fed the same kinds of food to the turtle for a long time in its life.

So far, it’s excellent, and the turtle looks healthy. Changing diets or adding new foods can cause your pet to stop eating. Provide food for turtles with various preferences to distinguish those foods your pet likes.

If it’s the type of food, you’ve never eaten before, start slowly and add smaller portions initially. And after knowing all this, it is essential to break down the amount of food given to your turtle daily.

It should not overfeed; it can cause problems for the animal in several ways, in addition to requiring that the quality of the water be higher.

Female Gravid or Egg Bound in turtles

On the other hand, females lay eggs, but they need a suitable environment for this to happen. Otherwise, they can retain them! Another thing is that, like chickens, female water tigers lay eggs even without the male, but they are infertile.

Another curiosity is that females have host glands that keep the male’s semen for several years to lay fertile eggs during that time. Reproduction usually takes place from July to December; during this period, the female digs a nest and places an average of 10 eggs that will remain hatched for 66 to 114 days.

The brooder’s temperature is 20 to 30 degrees, and unlike birds, the eggs cannot be rotated; they have to be quiet until the baby is born. The baby is born fragile, has to stay in an environment with controlled temperature and humidity, in addition to receiving a specific feeding for juveniles.

Change of environment 

An adult turtle is new to the family, and its unique environment can make adoption very uncomfortable. Once adapted to the new home, he will try to eat again.

This should take several days. Avoid handling red-eared right after bringing it to. Be sure to let the animal settle into its new environment before trying to deal with it.

These tiny turtles need constant parameter control to live closer to their natural habitat. Many live on poor quality water in aquariums.

Turtles don’t like sudden changes in parameters, new people, new environments, noise, and so on. Also, be aware of adding other turtles to the aquarium. This can cause nervousness in the new animal and the old one, which can lead the Red Eared Slider not eating.

Constipation or foreign object

A hot water bath usually solves this; the temperature should be slightly higher than the turtle needs. In contrast, impaction is a severe condition that can lead to fatality.

Impaction usually occurs if your turtle eats a foreign object at home or even from the tank. This requires urgent surgery, take the vet to treat it as soon as possible, and ensure your safety, but a severe case of constipation can lead to death if nothing is done to correct the situation.

Respiratory Infection in turtles

If your pet suffers from asthma, it stops eating and may become lethargic. Symptoms include excess mucus in the mouth, causing nasal irritation, wheezing, and open mouth breathing.

It is usually a disease that occurs in cases where there is negligence towards the correct temperature for the animal. It can often be a secondary result of vitamin A deprivation.

Vitamin A Deficiency

Vitamin A deficiencies are common in red-eared turtles, where the food does not contain much vitamin A. Therefore, it can disrupt their normal functions and lack of appetite.

But to be sure of this issue, it is necessary to carry out examinations on the animal and diagnosis by a veterinarian. Based on the information obtained after the exam, you will have a correct diet line to provide for your animal with the professional’s guidance.

Change meal times

Activity is most common during the first half of the day. If you are providing evening meals, try changing the feeding period. Early in the morning, turtles tend to digest faster with more energy and cravings. Maybe that’s another reason your turtle doesn’t eat. Try changing your turtle’s food, and you will notice changes in your turtle’s behavior.

Lighting in the tank

Red-eared ones need adequate lighting to live correctly. 12 to 14 hours of light a day make for the perfect environment. Certain species also need to receive UVB light to maintain optimal functions, such as swimming, moving, breathing, and even eating.

Dim light also causes strain on newborn turtles, leading to poor growth and underweight. It ends up causing a vitamin deficiency.

You set your lights to run 12-14 hours a day using a digital timer to lighten your work. Without regular lighting, your pet may stop eating. Create a daily cycle to help your pet live. Pay close attention to the general conditions of the environment in winter.

Remembering that the specific lamp for them has validity but still seems to be usually working, a tip is to look at the period of light on the package and calculate how long it will last, so you will know exactly which day to change the lamp.

Calcium deficiency in food

If the red ear loses its appetite, it may be because it lacks calcium. Add calcium blocks to water in your diet to increase your pet’s blood calcium levels and increase appetite and health. Vitamin and calcium supplementation levels must be present in the captive reptile diet for healthy growth.

Alternatively, it recommends the inclusion of bones in the diet, especially crocodilians or carbonated water with calcium.

Red-Eared Slider Not Eating

What should I do if my Red-Eared Slider not eating?

The most stressful situation with our pet is the refusal to eat. Fortunately, with turtles, this problem is usually relatively easy. Red-eared (Trachemys scripta elegans) refused to eat for weeks.

It was a frightening experience, but it taught me that a red-eared turtle would quickly become healthy if you kept your cool and researched the subject and turned to professionals in the field.

Final Thoughts – Red-Eared Slider Not eating.

The Red-Eared Slider is an attractive, low-maintenance animal that can stay with you for up to 30 years. If you take care of your health now, it should live up to the expected life span.

Keep an eye out for what might upset your turtle and try to remove it. When the turtle refuses to eat and shows the first symptoms of illness, go to the vet immediately. Turtles can survive without food for an unusually long time. However, let’s not try this because we are responsible turtle owners.

Most Popular Saltwater Plants for Aquarium [Species Guide]

Trevor Aquarium Plants (info and tips), Blog, Care Guides, Info and Tips, Marine (guides), Plants (guides), Uncategorized , ,
Saltwater Plants for Aquarium

Saltwater Plants for Aquarium are still relatively new to the hobby. It is not always easy to create a balanced ecosystem to keep plants alive. There are many requirements: Substrate, filtration, nutrients, lighting, nitrates and oxygen. How do you maintain an environment for your marine reef aquarium plant?

Saltwater plants for aquarium will breathe life into your marine set-ups

Saltwater aquarium plants will light up your aquatic exposition with vibrant colors and trippy shapes. Aquarium plants keeps your fish happy in a healthy environment, even helping you to keep your aquariums clean.

Of course, you will want to ensure that you can choose the best ones for your tank, so we have rounded up the best-recommended suggestions for your fish tank. With an extensive list of saltwater aquarium plants, you can buy ectopic fish and plants from our collection of aquatic and horticultural resources and articles.

Saltwater Plants for Aquarium

Choosing the right saltwater plants for aquarium

When choosing fish, it is relatively easy to determine if will be friendly with others. If plants are healthy, but there is fish or another occupant who eat them, dig up roots, or have no carbon dioxide, plants will not survive. Similarly, it would help if you considered the chemical balance inside the saltwater aquarium.

Moreover, temperatures are constant, and clarity is needed for photosynthesis. When the temperature is too high or too cold, everything suffers. If the ecology works appropriately, the plants and fish must work together to maintain the right balance in the aquarium.

Saltwater plants for your refugium

If you’re raising saltwater fish, this stocked reserve is natural to remove harmful nitrates from your aquarium. Marine plant systems may be a reasonable means of filtering your system. seaweeds help weeded out unwanted algae by keeping them away from the surface.

In addition, Saltwater plants can create ornamental crops, reduce Nitrites (NO3) and phosphates (PO4), and provides an inexpensive and attractive source of nutrient for fish.

Chaeto Macroalgae

Chaetomorpha is among the populous seaweeds croalgae with good reason. The colonies produce thick mats, which are highly helpful in the control of nutrients. Chaeto offers dense hiding places for copepods, fish, and other minor creatures.

Please be sure to screen new algae purchases carefully, as unauthorized hitchhikers may come into your ecosystem as snails or bristle worms. There are several types of species in the genus, but the most common, the Chaetomorephrea chaeto, is edible.

Chaeto Macroalgae

Red Gracilaria Algae

Red Gracilaria Algaeis a beautiful alga, and it brings a very dark red tint to your aquarium. It is suitable for cleaning water and for providing nutritional benefits for plants-eaten fish. Perfect for managers and angelfish, this growing tree is easy to care for with the appropriate lighting and moderate flow conditions.

Many hobbyists choose to grow that algae in a refugium and feed on the fish in little pinches occasionally. However, it can easily be placed in the main tank since its appearance is lovely!

Red Gracilaria Algae

Spaghetti Algae aka Chaeto

It absorbs Nitrates and releases loads of oxygen, so your marine life will love this addition to your tank. A lot of fish don’t attempt to eat this plant, but smaller fish often find more food in its pods. It’s hardy plants and won’t bother us when we have it in our saltwater aquarium.

Spaghetti Algae aka Chaeto

Mermaid’s fan

Mermaid’s fan is a tremendous decorative alga for saltwater aquariums. It has a vast, beautiful green leaf with an almost mermaid tail. The mermaid’s fan is easy to take care of once he settles down into the tank. This living plant requires illumination and supplement to survive. Make sure your aquarium has adequate amounts.

Mermaid's fan

Green Finger Plant

This algae is both beautiful and hardy and is a favorite with saltwater aquarium hobbyists. Most fish don’t eat this plant, so you should be worried about being destroyed by hungry fish. A green finger alga makes an excellent filter, so your tank stays clean.

Green Finger Plant

Halimeda

Species are discovered at high depth; therefore, their adaptability is high. Halimeda algae retain higher concentrations of ccalciferous alcium.

Their grow is a reliable indicator of a sufficient level of calciferous for corals to grow. They may be attached to the surface of a coral or alive rock. They are also a calcified type of macroalgae and use limestone (calcium carbonate) as a structure.

Saltwater Plants for Aquarium - Halimeda

Sea Lettuce

There is a widely available macroalga type, and it is one of the hardiest species. Lettuce grows in an intertidal zone on ocean-wide shores. Growing on wave-swept rocks and gravel, the plant will be exposed ever to the harsh bright and warm air.

It also grows quickly enough to overcome snails, limpees, and other herbivorous plants. It is a beloved selection of algae for most people.

Saltwater Plants for Aquarium - Sea Lettuce

Blue Hypnea

Blue Hypnea is an important crown jewel of the macroalgae world. Hailing from Micronesia, the deep iridescent algae are intensely blue. It is a relatively slow-growing species that forms small mats that rarely grow more than 3 inches in height. It is usually saved as a decorative plant and thrives under the intense coral bright. The specie grows quickly.

Saltwater Plants for Aquarium - Blue Hypnea

Shaving Brush Plant

It is diverse macroalgae in terms of appearance. Others have spherical tops, while others are taller or resemble barbers’ brushes.

Each has a small stalk anchored in sand or other substrates. The height can vary and is between 4 and 12 inches. The size can reach 12 inches. For growth, the dissolved calcium content of 200 to 200ppm is ideal.

Shaving Brush Plant

Red Mangrove Propagule (Rhizophora Mangle)

Mangrove is a beautiful addition if used. Grown in pairs, these tall plants can appear like bamboo forests. The leaves must remain above water so the roots can be easily anchored to dry rock or solid sand. The seeds are the best selection for propagation in your aquarium tanks.

Turtle Grass Shoots (Thalassia testudinum)

Turtle grass is seaweed and macroalgae that you can easily use as a mat for a tank. This can be used in groups to produce a natural fresh looking sandy bottom in your ocean tank life.

Many things need extra attention. Turtle grass requires minimal illumination and water circulation to look attractive and quality. It’s native site is Florida’s Gulf Coast, where it is seen in its natural habitat.

Turtle Grass Shoots (Thalassia testudinum)

Water primrose

Water primrose grows in or underneath the water. It can display a distinct reddish-brown tint that will brighten your otherwise green aquarium.

This versatile plant is an excellent addition to your Aquarium but requires iron fertilizers best for development. You’ll want to maintain an ideal environment for your primroses to make sure you get the bright color of the leaves.

Water primrose

Dragon’s Tongue

Dragon’s Tongue tolerates medium luminosity environments. It is particularly variable in form, with anemones like increase form given much higher luminosity.

The plant also prefers mild current, so placing it near a drain leads to more significant growth. It will grow higher when it low light conditions than in a high light environment.

Dragon's Tongue

Tufted Joint Algae

Tufted Joint Algae is a small segmented green plant with small feathered branches at the of which the plant appears to be from prehistoric eras.

The plant oxygenates the water and balances nitrogen. It should be anchored to a reef and requires medium lighting for best results. It doesn’t do well within environments with heavy concentrations of nitrates and phosphates.

Tufted Joint Algae

Highly Nutritious

All macroalgae are rich in iodine, ribose, and magnesium to provide the aquarium with calcium. Herbivorous fish such as tangs can often suffer nutritional deficiencies when forced to eat just food feed.

If yours is slow-growing, you could always supplement its diet with dried macroalgae preparations.

Plants Eliminate Unwanted Algae

Marine tanks have advantages in fighting off algae. Because larvae first feed on nitrate that the microalgae use for survival is eliminated. It can be said that microalgae starve and die because of nitrate deficiency and the moral of the story is simple.

You can use macroalgae for managing dangerous algae in a sea tank. Over time microalgae become starved and die from a nutrient deficit.

Conclusion: A great alternative to Coral (Saltwater Plants for Aquarium)

Almost all macroalgae species get by on very little light and require relatively low levels of water. The plants need a moderate amount of free-moving nutrients for growth to be healthy. Other species such as calciferous Halimeda have similar care requirements as coral. Corals require impeccable water condition, stability, and an intense light setup. Many macroalgae grow alongside them.

The right plants can help keep the water chemistry balanced and provides feed for plants-eating animals. The wrong plant may cause havoc in large tanks or be quickly eaten and destroyed. A little study can go a very long way, and it is usually easy to fix any situation.

[Koi Fish Care] Koi in fish tank (Lifespan, Tank Mates, Diet, & Health)

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Koi in fish tank

Koi fish is a popular ornamental fish around the world. When you think You should ideally keep these animals in carp ponds, they become inaccessible to any fishkeeper. Its maintenance in domestic aquariums requires giant tanks, periodic maintenance, and a high-quality filter. A tranquil pond filled with colorful carp brings charm to a backyard. And a large aquarium with Kois is overwhelming in any environment. Here we provided Koi in fish tank guide (Lifespan, Tank Mates, Diet, & Health).

Everything you need to know about Koi fishes

Koi fish can be up to 3 feet long, which is more significant than other aquarium fish. The female Koi fish is larger than the male and has a more circular body. They’re like vacuum cleaners constantly rummaging through the substrate for food. They have different types of colors and shapes, being highly ornamental animals. When trying to find food, they can dig up sediment, which can disturb your aquatic plants.

Koi in fish tank

Can a Koi fish live in a tank?

Yes, the fishes may live indoors in either a fish tank or water tank. They are attractive and can be central parts of any room or office. In tanks, you can enjoy them year-round regardless of the outdoor condition. Also, people with Koi ponds have to keep the fish indoors when there’s a problem with the pond: the winter is heaviest, one is sick, or a newcomer is in quarantine. This means that they can keep an eye on their well-being and continue developing during average dormant winters. It offers an advantage to keeping Koi in a tank rather than a pond.

Why can’t it always be permanent?

Unfortunately, Koi fish grow a lot in the first years. Even as a baby, they will be outgrowing their tank by about a year. For these reasons, most people who tried indoor tanks either expanded to the outdoors or stopped altogether because house Koi also required more care and lots of space.

Can other fish live with Koi in a tank?

Koi fish can live well with some species of fish but prefer to be among the same species. Choose calm tank mates that don’t pinch fins and can’t be eaten by Koi. Keep common sense about overcrowding and provide enough space for everyone.

Feeding Koi Fish In A Tank

Feeding Koi fish in a fish pond is no different than feeding Koi fish in a pond. Carp can eat other foods and benefit from varied diets. Some of the foods consumed by Koi fish include commercial food for Koi and fresh vegetables. As a staple food, offer high-quality commercial Koi rations. That way, your pet will receive all the nutrition it needs to stay healthy and vibrant in color.

Breeding Koi Fish

Koi fish produce thousands of embryos upon spawning; even with the high hatch rate, only a few will be selected as high standard Koi to be broodmares. Fish typically spawn when water temperatures are 65° to 70°F. In outdoor ponds, this usually happens in late spring or early summer. Before spawning day, you will notice one or more males showing interest and harassing the female; the male closely follows her around the pond for a day or two. Spawning usually starts early in the morning, with males aggressively chasing and prodding the female.

General behavior

Most Koi fish are friendly and do not harass other fish. They are curious fish; they may even come to you when you appear near the tank if they feel comfortable.

Interesting facts

A surprising fact is that Koi fish are known for jumping. In these jumps, the fish may jump out of the water, so the fishkeeper must place a reinforced cover to hold the strength and size of the Koi.

Koi are friendly and can eat from your hands.

When they are comfortable in their home, they can eat directly from their hands. They can be ideal indoor companions and ornaments.

Room to Thrive

An aquarium will never be the ideal accommodation solution for Koi. Overcrowded environments cause severe problems for Koi because of the accumulation of toxic nitrogen. Before long, you can use an aquarium as a temporary tank for an adult Koi, or you can house Koi in aquariums when babies are less than 6 inches long. Still, they prefer to live with other Koi of their kind in a tank with lots of space.

Benefits of Keeping Koi in Aquarium Tank

There are some benefits to using an aquarium to keep Koi. For those who live in an apartment, it may be the only option available to keep carp and not having problems with the hibernation of animals by being able to control the water temperature. Learn our tips and enjoy this hobby!

How do I set up an aquarium for Koi fish?

Koi fish are considered to be very active species. Koi are busy day and night, always swimming and turning the substrate for food. Your aquarium should be as large as possible, with a great filtering system correctly sized and cycled. The substrate must be soft and rounded; avoid small stones that can choke the fish. A heater to keep the temperature constant and have maintenance scheduled and your test kit at hand.

How many Koi can be kept in an aquarium?

Never overpopulate your aquarium. The number of individuals to be kept is relative to the volume of your aquarium; use common sense and water testing to see if something is out of balance. The more Koi there are, the greater the chance of problems with your system.

Koi Fish Minimum Tank Size

It’s okay to determine if you want to place Koi in an aquarium or a pond. A koi fish can grow to 3 feet in length! Even domestic Koi of common genetics can rise to this size. The growth of carp and most other fish are genetically self-determined by the parents within the limits of the species. Local koi clubs are an excellent option to relocate your Koi if a pond is out of reach. Maintain good filtrations and frequent water changes.

Koi fish tank size

A proper tank should have a minimum of 1000 gallons of water to allow healthy Koi for a long time. Carp are usually kept in indoor or outdoor ponds larger than ponds as they can be huge.

Buy and start your Koi fish aquarium

Juvenile Koi are perfect for keeping in aquariums because of their small size. They easily fit into smaller spaces, at least for a while. Set up an aquarium as long and wide as possible with all the necessary equipment to support the animals’ lives. Please make sure you cycle it first.

Koi Tank Setup

Set up the tank in an area that provides a good viewing angle but not in a room with heavy traffic of people and things. It is also crucial that the tank is placed so that the fish are not startled and cannot be bumped or knocked. It is also essential to ensure that it is set out of direct sunlight.

Koi water conditions

Koi fish can survive in most climates, but they don’t like sudden fluctuations in temperature. The water needs to be stabilized, ensuring it is well filtered to avoid pollution and eliminate waste. Keeping fish indoors in a well-ventilated and protected place is a good practice against the sun and drafts. Check the pH and ammonia in your carp tank regularly.

Temperature of water

Unlike tropical fish, Koi prefer milder waters between 65 and 75 degrees F, use a heater to keep the temperature constant; This keeps the fish’s metabolism stable year-round, regardless of the outside temperature.

Set the optimum temperature and pH

The ideal water temperature level for Koi fish is typically around 70 Fahrenheit. To keep the temperature constant and stable, it is advisable to place a heater inside the aquarium. Otherwise, unstable parameters may compromise your Koi’s health due to parameter fluctuations. Keep your pH tending towards alkaline between 7 and 8.5, consistently stable.

Decorations

Koi are found either by turning over the substrate at the bottom of the water column or swimming on the water’s surface. Beware of sharp or hard textured decorations as they can hurt your fish. Koi need a lot of open space for swimming; wisely choose decorations that don’t get in the way of the animals’ free area. Use soft substrates such as fine sand, beware of gravel that Koi could swallow; Koi like to have a thin layer at the bottom of the substrate, through which they can sift to the surface of the water.

Plants as decor

Adding plants into a Koi tank isn’t the best idea as the fish dig deep and eat the plants. You can always add fake plants; it is the best option with Koi.

Koi Fish Feeding Habits

Feed the Koi an amount that will be consumed in a few minutes, leaving no leftovers. They eat more when the water temperature is at its highest. Generally, Koi present themselves as voracious fish that readily accept various types of snacks. Daily, you can use high-quality commercial food specific to your type of Koi. Do not overfeed; in addition to water quality degradation, your fish can become obese. They are fish that eat everything, regularly offer fresh or bleached vegetables.

Common diseases to look out for

If your fish has unusual swimming patterns, abdominal bloating, corroded or inflamed, or discolored fins, this is a warning sign. Anchor worms are white fibrous worms that attach to fish, resulting in small white spots and unusual swimming behaviors; they are a relatively common parasite on Koi. Fin rot is a common bacterial infection that causes changes in the behavior or inflammation of the fins, which causes some of the fins to fray. Dropsy is created by bacterial or associated conditions, making the belly swollen, the eye cloudy, and the scales raised. Pop-eye, like dropsy, is indirectly a result of poor water quality and must be subjected to veterinary treatment.

Conclusion

Koi in a fish aquarium tank is viable as long as you have a giant tack with a great filtering system correctly sized. Koi are big eaters and their waste, in turn, is enormous. Clean gravel and maintain with water change twice a week or as often as necessary. Check the water parameters to ensure ammonia, temperature, pH, and everything else are in the correct range. Watch out for quick changes in parameters. If you keep doing all these steps, your Koi in fish tank will be the perfect environment for them. Let me know if you have any questions!

[Complete Breeding Guide] How To Tell If Angelfish Eggs Are Fertilized – (With Pictures)

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How To Tell If Angelfish Eggs Are Fertilized

The primary feature of fertilized eggs is brownish amber rather than white opaque, which indicates a non-viable egg. The fertilized eggs stick to their spawning site. The yolk sac larva and the oil tube inside their translucent eggshell provide the only sign of fertilization. Both parents signify fertilization by shielding their eggs and nibbling on any fish that stay close. After reading this post you will get a clear idea about How to tell if Angelfish eggs are fertilized. Let’s start…

Angelfish eggs

Angelfish eggs are fertilized when they are translucent to amber-brown or light brownish-yellow in color. When they are yellowish, it means they are getting ready to hatch in a few days. Today, we will use information about Angelfish eggs to increase our knowledge about these fish, as they are known and maintained in aquariums worldwide.

How do I tell if an angelfish egg is fertilized?

Angelfish are easily reproduced fish, in addition to being competent reproducers and providing excellent parental care. Some obstacles in breeding are unfertilized eggs or eggs attacked by infective agents (mainly fungi). Luckily, detecting the viability of angelfish eggs is easy and quick to do and helping the parents or even artificially hatching them in a separate tank. Are fertilized and how to care for an angelfish, and much more. Angelfish offer many opportunities for trial and error, especially if you have already established pairs of angelfish that have previously mated and have had experience caring for eggs and fry.

How To Tell If Angelfish Eggs Are Fertilized

How often do angelfish lay eggs?

Angelfish species are fish belonging to the Cichlidae family. They are among the most popular tropical aquarium fish because of their beauty and graceful movements in the water. Angelfish lay as many as 1,000 eggs in a single spawn. Each couple can mate every two weeks. There are many varieties of angelfish of different colors, including wild angelfish, silver angelfish, zebra angelfish, koi angelfish, smoke angelfish, etc. Knowing the correct care at each stage of reproduction can help you understand the egg and take the necessary care. There are several reasons why you might want to resort to hatching eggs without the help of the angelfish parents. This will be explained in detail in this guide.

Difference Between Fertilized And Unfertilized Angelfish Eggs

It is normal to find some dead white eggs among the brown eggs. Beginning aquarists may think that the egg’s color is irrelevant to the hatching process. White or milky eggs are dead eggs, unfertilized or contaminated by some fungus or bacteria. You must remove milky eggs before they infect viable eggs; you could lose all offspring if not removed. Couples in the first litter should be observed, as they have not yet learned to properly take care of the litter. The main difference to be observed between healthy and non-viable eggs is the color they present.

What color should angelfish eggs be?

Viable eggs have high transparency, ranging from light translucent to amber and brown. Viable eggs hatch in approximately 60 hours when kept at 80°F in good water conditions. Opaque or milky eggs indicate non-viable, unfertilized, or infected eggs and should be removed from the pond. Fungi-covered eggs will produce more fungus, infecting healthy eggs. As we move forward, I’ll tell you how to recognize viable eggs and share some valuable ways to take care of a tricky situation and ensure that your fry stays friendly and healthy.

Angelfish breeding

Angelfish (Pterophyllum sp.) is a population with adequate stability, which is recognized as less concern. This species is most often found in soft acidic waters in flooded forests and lakes in Amazon. Keep a large school, and couples will form without a problem and spawn readily. They clean a flat vertical surface to lay their eggs and will protect the place from other fish. Spawning occurs with the female laying eggs on the prepared surface and the male following, fertilizing them.

Introduction to the breeding of angelfish

At some stage, every fishkeeper or aquarist has started to keep or try to breed angelfish most of the time. Angelfish are one of the oldest freshwater tropical fish in the business, featuring a wide variety of colors and shapes and being easily obtainable. They are relatively easy to maintain and breed and are a great entry point for anyone looking to produce fish that lay eggs.

Getting that first angelfish spawn

Being easy to reproduce does not mean that they will automatically lay eggs when you place them in your aquarium. It just means they have a steady habit of spawning. After introducing a fish to another location, it takes a few weeks for them to adjust. Wait a while, and they will reward you with patience and good behavior. A characteristic mark of a poorly packaged fish suffering from stress does not eat much or are visibly thin, afraid, and without strength. You can raise the temperature a little or make a substantial change (75% or more) with cooler water; in formed pairs and conditioned fish will act as a trigger for egg deposition.

Angelfish water requirements

In natural environments, angelfish swim in acidic, soft, and hot water, which is easily found most of the year – usually 84 F. Because they have been bred in captivity for years, captive individuals are adapted to living in different environments. Water patterns from that of nature. In the case of wild individuals, if the water used in your system is not naturally acidic and soft, use deionization or a reverse osmosis filter to produce soft water.

Angelfish Tank Set-Up

A 26-gallon aquarium is a great size to use when isolating a pair for breeding. Angelfish need to feel secure in their new environment to succeed and reproduce freely. Angelfish have no difficulty dealing with nitrites and ammonia in low concentrations. Still, when we are going to breed them, we have to be very careful with the quality of the water, as this can result in the success or failure of the litter. An adequately cycled and sized filtration system will help deal with these contaminants, along with water changes. We recommend using PVC pipes, plant pots, and driftwood when setting up the breeding tank; this provides flat surfaces for oviposition.

Feeding Angelfish

Angelfish are typical cichlids. The standard rule is to offer good quality food at least a few times during the day. Angelfish are great eaters, having no problems accepting different foods. Offer small portions of food so as not to be leftovers in the water; take advantage of the feeding time to see if all the fish are ok. Barebottom tanks are an excellent choice for breeding tanks, as you can see if there are any leftovers or droppings somewhere and get them out quickly.

Artificially Hatching Angelfish eggs.

Artificially hatching angelfish eggs is relatively easy and can be done on many different levels, but there are two essential ingredients. One is aeration, and the other is pure water. It can take a lot of spawns for the parents to learn how to create the eggs ideally. Some breeders make use of fungicidal elements and other tricks to increase the success rate. By keeping the eggs aerated and water in perfect condition, hatching will occur.

What do angelfish eggs look like when fertilized?

Angelfish eggs range in color from translucent amber to brown. The more eggs that turn white, the more care must be taken. Other fish and even inexperienced parents will eat the fry in the blink of an eye. Monitor egg growth and evolution frequently. Angelfish eggs need a short period of approximately 60 hours to transform into fingerlings.

How do I care for angelfish eggs?

Angelfish eggs face the initial threat from their parents. Parents can care for the eggs, oxygenating them and keeping them free of dirt, fungus, and dust with their fins. If you keep the couple away from the eggs, you must do everything their parents did during and after incubation. Always keep the water in perfect conditions; when raised with the parents, remember to remove the matrices right after the fry is in its normal swimming movement. Post-hatch success depends on you keeping the water parameters excellent and stable and providing the fish with proper nutrition.

How long does it take for angelfish eggs to hatch?

It takes fertilized angelfish eggs 60 hours from spawn to hatching. Keeping the temperature in the tanks around 80°F. As the larval angelfish consume up all their yolk sack, they become free swimmers. This happens in about 3 to 5 days after hatching, depending on the water temperature.

Tell me the right color for angelfish eggs?

Angelfish eggs should be opaque amber or brownish, indicating they are fertile and healthy. If your eggs become white and opaque, they are not necessarily dead, but your chances of hatching are minimal unless you take immediate action. Watch the colors of the eggs in an appropriate range. If they keep dying, you can fix the causes and avoid it before a new spawn comes, even if they can be saved.

Why are Angelfish eggs not fertilized?

When you see white Angelfish eggs, you are left wondering where anything went wrong. We know that the egg is not viable; this can happen for different reasons. In the case of fish, poorly conditioned breeders will produce poor-quality offspring. With deteriorating water quality, eggs will be lost to fungi and other infections, and the couple’s experience also counts in this case.

Acquisition of Angelfish breeding stock

There are two basic ways to get a pair of angelfish. One of them is to acquire fish that have already formed pairs. The second involves purchasing a dozen juvenile fish to grow and develop new pairs. When receiving formed pairs, ask how old the fish are and how long they have been bred. Some angelfish that have been used as a matrix have observable sexual traits, but ideally, you don’t want old couples because they don’t show the same vigor as before.

Do angelfish lay eggs without males?

Some signs say your angelfish will spawn. Angelfish can be bred at six to twelve months of age. It’s equally important to look at the available space; an overcrowded environment prevents angelfish from spawning, no matter how good the parents’ breeder is. Some females will lay eggs regularly; when kept in optimum pond qualities, the eggs will not be fertilized without a male angelfish; they will die, becoming a mass of opaque white fungus.

What to do when angelfish eggs change color?

You can’t expect all angelfish eggs to hatch. Angelfish produce so many eggs that there are still many leftovers even in outbreaks of contamination. And angelfish are so prolific that even if you lose all your eggs, you’ll soon have a new spawn. Take some steps to keep your fish healthy in the tank and in all failed attempts to understand what is going on so that you can learn to solve future problems.

How do I keep angelfish eggs from changing color?

You have to accept that you’re going to lose some eggs no matter what you’ve done. If your eggs look milky, try to find out why your Angelfish never fertilized correctly. As eggs are victims of fungal infections or bacteria, it is best to keep the water in perfect condition at all times. Put it in a separate tank if any hostile fish exerts so much stress that it inhibits your angel from producing its egg.

Improperly managed migration

If angelfish eggs turn opaque or white after you relocate them, they are infertile or dead. Relocation of eggs without the correct technique can cause fungal infections or hatching eggs, causing embryo death. Use and keep the same water parameters of the aquarium in which they were fertilized in the egg tank.

Fertility issues

A healthy angelfish egg has a bright brownish-brown color. On the other hand, white or opaque eggs are sterile. Angelfish, unlike other fish, also do not lay fertilized eggs.

The factor behind Angelfish egg colors

Fish breeders must continuously monitor angelfish eggs colors because they show a lot about egg health. Early fertilized angelfish eggs should show a clear amber or brown shade; in this situation, you might increase your chances of hatching their eggs. For this reason, you must watch their colors closely during the spawning period of your angelfish. White or transparent angelfish eggs are not always dead.

Egg Caring Tips

You should then check if the eggs are oxygenated and the water is in excellent condition. To protect the eggs from bacteria or fungi, you can treat the water with a fungicide like methylene blue.

Notes About the breeding of angelfish

If your angelfish pair is too young or eating the eggs, you might have difficulty breeding them. Angelfish have been known to react over certain stress factors (e.g., motion around the tank or other fish movement) and eat eggs in their haste. If this is the case take eggs out of the tank will be necessary. If it’s their first-time breeder, the eggs can be removed and hatch in a separate tank.

How do I care for angelfish fry after they hatch?

It would be best if you waited until you got a tank full of free-swimming fry to feed them. You can supplement their diet with fresh hatched brine shrimp and micro worms. It would help if you ultimately gave angelfish the same feeding you fed your adult angelfish. Angelfish fry develops a maturity within six to twelve months.

Final thought

Constantly observe the colors and evolution of your angelfish eggs; that way, you will know how to take the necessary action that will guarantee long and prosperous life to the embryos.

Conclusions

Angelfish eggs should be transparent amber or brown. If they look opaque, it may suggest the lack of fertilization. Angelfish do not need internal fertilization. The female can even lay eggs without the presence of a male. You can form your breeding pairs or visit a pet store or a fish breeder and purchase a reproduction pair from experts. I hope you can raise an angelfish fry someday. Don’t give up even if you don’t succeed after trying. Try my suggestion above to improve your problem-solving skills. I believe the article has helped clarify the matter about How To Tell If Angelfish Eggs Are Fertilized.