Tropical Freshwater (guides)

Best Substrate for Cichlid Aquarium

Trevor Blog, Plants & Substrate (reviews), Tank Set-up (Care Guide), Tropical Freshwater (guides) March 4, 2024aquarium substrate, substrate for cichlids

Choosing the correct substrate for your tank is important as it aids biological filtration, enhances the habitat for your cichlids, is beneficial to live plants and on top of this, adds to the beauty of your fish tank. In this article we jump into the lively debate and explore which is the best substrate for cichlid aquarium.

Cichlids are a popular choice with aquarium owners. There are more than 1,000 species of cichlids and they are found in most parts of the world.

It is the species found in the African lakes being considered the most beautiful. Cichlids can be just a few centimeters in size or up to 90cm.

They are popular, not just because of their looks, most of them are easy-going fish that are easy to keep and fun to watch.

They are low maintenance and – if kept in the right conditions- are long-living.

Best Substrate for Cichlid Aquarium

Natural vs. Artificial Substrates

The first question to answer is what is substrate? Substrate is aquarium gravel, sand or any other material poured in a layer on the tank’s bottom.

Substrate fulfils several roles with the important one being that beneficial bacteria live on the substrate and there the bacteria break down leftover food, fish waste and any plant debris and this helps to keep the water clean and the balance of good and bad bacteria in check.

Experimenting with different types of materials helps determine the best substrate for cichlid aquarium.

Natural substrates

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These are usually classified as ‘inert’ and ‘active’ and this refers to whether they change the chemistry of the water in the tank so that it supports plant life.

The changes that are made are usually positive because the natural substrate contains micronutrients. Some are designed to reduce the pH of a tank whilst others leech ammonia into the water which is beneficial for the plants.

Active substrates with aragonite help prevent pH swings in fish tanks, whilst one with peat will soften the tank water and one with vermiculate releases magnesium and potassium into the water which are both nutritional to plants.

Pebbles:

The largest form of natural nitrates can also be made using artificial materials. Pebbles come in every size and color imaginable, and the natural ones are made of rock or quartz.

Pebbles look good but when they are in layers at the bottom of the tank there are large gaps between them, and these can easily trap leftover foods and fish waste which in time can build up and produce nitrates and these are toxic to cichlid (and other fish).

Live plants do not root very easily in pebbles either.

Gravel:

In reality, gravel is just really small-pebbles. Gravel is available in a variety of natural (and artificial) materials and each piece of gravel usually measures between 2-4mm.

The big advantage of choosing gravel is that the gaps between the gravel are small so it is much harder for food or fish waste to get trapped.

Food waste tends to just settle on top of the gravel so that it can be easily cleaned up using a tank vacuum.

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Sand:

Natural sand is another popular type of substrate and comes in a variety of different types- just as it does on different beaches.

The grains of sand are available in different sizes from really fine to coarse and a selection of natural shades.

Aquarium Sand is a popular choice because it helps create the most natural environment for fish like the cichlid that has sand in its native home.

Sand is nice and easy to clean too as there is nowhere for uneaten food or animal waste to go except lie on top of the sand for easy removal.

Variations on sand substrates include crushed coral and crushed shells.

Aquarium soil:

This is specially formulated soil that means that it does not easily mix with tank water to become a muddy mess!

It is popular with those planting many plants in their aquarium as it is rich in nutrients which is good for the plants.

For those not wanting to plant many plants, other substrates are more suitable.

Having said that, some experts have a bottom substrate of soil so that their tank plants thrive and top this with a layer of natural sand.

Artificial substrate

There is a wide variety of artificial substrate available on the market, made from all different materials that does not affect the quality of the tank water.

Artificial pebbles, gravels, sands and soils can all be bought. Artificial pebbles for example, can be bought made from glass, beads and plastic.

Ceramic beads in a rainbow of colors are also available. Like all-natural substrate, those like the artificial beads and pebbles still form gaps where spare food and fish waste can easily accumulate.

And bare bottoms!

Some aquarium fans are adamant that there is no need to have a substrate and do not have any in their tank –this is usually referred to as a ‘bare bottom tank’.

This approach is not possible if you have fish like cichlid that like to dig in the substrate or others who scavenge for food.

The Best Substrate for Cichlids Aquarium

If you have cichlids, it is important to understand their natural living conditions. Most of the African cichlids come from the African rift lakes.

The waters in these lakes have very high mineral content and a high pH level ranging from 7.7 – 9.3. The water is harder and slightly more alkaline.

If you do not mimic these conditions in your fish tank, your cichlids will lose their color, be unable to breed and be more prone to infection.

Aquarium Ivory Coast sand is a great choice of substrate if you have a fish tank with African cichlids. This is because this substrate contains various natural minerals that are found in their natural habitat and helps keep the tank water crystal clear.

The Ivory Coast black sand is an alternative which can make a dramatic contrast with your brightly colored fish. It is more like a fine gravel than sand but contains a water-purifying bacteria that helps to detox the water.

Many fish experts recommend using coral sand, crushed coral or crushed oyster shell too. These help to balance the pH of the tank water. They prefer hard and slightly alkaline water, and this will also enhance the colors of your fish.

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Considerations When Choosing Substrate

There are four important points to consider when choosing a substrate for your cichlid’s tank:

Size of particles

It is important to remember that uneaten food and fish waste and get trapped in the gaps between large particles/ pebbles and this will negatively impact the water quality of your tank as they decompose as the toxins build up.

It is important to consider what your cichlid wants too – they usually like to dig in sand.

Color

There are just so many different colors to choose from and whilst some are bright and whacky, others are totally naturally and enhance the beauty of the fish.

Darker colors can have the effect of making tanks and aquariums look smaller whilst light natural shades enhance their size. Some substrate looks dirty quickly, so this is another consideration.

Impact on the tank water

The African Cichlid is one of many fish species that needs certain water parameters – in this case a higher pH.

One way to achieve this is to add a substrate to the tank that will buffer the water.

Coral is a really good choice for cichlids as it does this successfully and coral sand combines the benefits of the coral on the pH and sand which is the cichlids’ favorite substrate.

Effect on the fish

What you choose as substrate will definitely impact your fish. Substrate with sharp edges can hurt fish.

Light-colored substrate can frighten fish– especially if teamed with bright lights.

To ensure you make a good choice, research the natural habitat and behavior of your cichlid and try to recreate it.

It is important to remember that you do not need to use just one type of substrate. If you need to use crushed coral for your tank but your cichlid much prefers sand, either invest in some coral sand – if you can find it- or mix crushed coral with sand for maximum benefit.

Some cichlid experts recommend using coral sand with aragonite. This is because aragonite is crystallized calcium carbonate which increases the hardness of water and its pH- both these are beneficial for healthy happy cichlids.

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Tips for Maintaining and Using Substrate

When choosing a substrate for your cichlids, sand is considered the best. This is because cichlids love to dig in the sand and move it around.

They do scavenge for food in the wild and do make nests in the sand for their eggs. When you are putting aquarium sand or coral sand into your tank, it is best to have the layer at a depth of 2.5 – 5 cm (1-2 inches).

When you are in the pet shop wondering how much to buy, the guide is one pound (450g) per gallon of water.

Regular maintenance of the best substrate for cichlid aquarium is crucial for sustaining a balanced ecosystem.

It is important to keep the tank environment well and to remove any food and fish waste from the tank promptly and not let it start to decompose.

You should regularly change the water in your tank once or twice a week – the frequency depends on how many fish and the size of tank.

Once a month, you need to clean all the algae from the tank walls using a sponge, clean the sand by stirring in water to release all the dirt particles and check and clean the filter and pump.

It is a good idea to test your tank water weekly for nitrate levels and the pH. If your fish seem stressed test the water straight away to pinpoint the problem.

Final Thoughts – best substrate for cichlid aquarium

Selecting the best substrate for cichlid aquarium can significantly impact the health and behavior of the fish.

Choosing natural sand or coral sand for your fish tank will really enhance the environment for your cichlid as it will mimic their natural environment.

Keep the sand clean and healthy for your fish and regularly check the hardness of the water and its pH to ensure these are both within the ideal parameters for your cichlid.

Your fish will definitely enjoy having a substrate of sand or coral sand in their tank and you will have the fun of watching them digging in the sand and maybe even building a nest.

Unlocking the Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants [Top Tips]

Trevor Aquarium Plants (info and tips), Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Equipment (info & tips), Plants (guides), Tank Set-up (Care Guide) February 18, 2024aquarium lighting, light spectrum

best spectrum for aquarium plants with discus fish

This article is all about lighting for plant growth. We’ll focus on understanding the best spectrum for aquarium plants.

Live plants add beauty in an aquarium, but they not only look good they help maintain a balanced ecosystem in the tank and have many benefits for your fish including providing oxygen, food and cover which lowers their stress levels.

To keep your plants healthy, they will need clean water, nutrients and plenty of full spectrum light to promote photosynthesis and plant growth.

Understanding Light Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

Different plants need more intense light to thrive, and a stronger light source is needed for taller fish tanks.

Aquatic plants thrive best under full spectrum light with a color temperature (known as a Kelvin rating) of 6,500- 8,000k.

It is essential that you choose a light source that has been designed to be beneficial to tank plants -such as high output T5 fluorescent and LED lighting.

The ‘light spectrum’ refers to the visible range of light and this is measured in nanometers according to the wavelength of the light energy – as seen by the naked eye.

This usually ranges between 400- 800 nanometers, with ultraviolet light towards the low end of the spectrum and infrared at the top end.

The visible spectrum of light is often accompanied a color scale, measured in color temperature using degrees.

Kelvin Black is at the lowest temperature of zero degrees and this progresses to red, then yellow, green, blue and then violet at the warmest temperature. Sunlight is full spectrum.

It is important to understand these basics of the light spectrum when choose the lighting for your tank as there are many different types of lighting to choose from.

Light bulbs are labelled such as ‘actinic’ and ‘daylight’ and they each produce a different light for different tanks with different fish and plants.

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For example, actinic bulbs produce lighting from the blue end of the spectrum, and this is ideal for saltwater reef tanks as it can penetrate deep water.

Full spectrum lights are often referred to as ‘daylight’ bulbs as they are produced from all wavelengths and are very similar to the light produced naturally in daylight.

This type of lighting is good for both freshwater and saltwater aquariums.

‘Colour enhancing’ bulbs produce light from the warmer end of the spectrum and are also ideal for both freshwater and saltwater tanks.

The different light wavelengths affect plants differently. For example, the power of red light is lost rapidly in water while blue light has penetrated the water more strongly and is more effective for photosynthesis and stimulating pigmentation in some plants.

Red light is effective for stimulating plant growth but needs to be stronger. Green is also good for aquatic plants.

Choosing the Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

Red and blue parts of the color spectrum have advantages although they are often lacking in light bulbs.

The first is that they will accentuate the color of the plants in your tank. However, it is important that the light bulb you choose also has green/orange/yellow spectrum too to give a balanced effect – although these colors will have less impact on your tank plants.

Stronger red/ blue lighting will also stimulate pigmentation in certain plants. Especially those with red leaves and out of the two, the blue spectrum of light is more important.

The plants will grow healthier too and be fuller in shape with more leaves.

Although the coloration of your plants is affected by the nutrients you give your tank plants, lighting plays a key role too.

It is said that having more blue in your light spectrum will mean there will be more algae in the tank, but this has not been proved.

When buying your aquatic plants, it is a good idea to ask for guidance about their light requirements.

T5 lighting, the strongest and ideal if you want a densely planted tank and you can plant the most light-needy plants in the center of the tank where the light is strongest.

The ‘rule of thumb’ is that you will need 1-2 watts per liter of water, but this calculation will need to be adjusted according to the type of fish you have and the depth of your tank.

For example, light from a fluorescent tube usually only penetrates the water to a depth of 60cm which may not be enough if you have a deep tank.

It is important to remember that most species of aquarium fish come from the tropics where there is an equal amount of day and night so they will need to have 12 hours of light. It is best to maintain the day/night cycle. Leaving your aquarium lights on will encourage the growth of algae.

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Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants for Different Stages of Plant Growth

Certain light spectrums trigger the growth of different characteristics in aquarium plants – at different stages.

For plants to optimally absorb the chlorophyll in the process of photosynthesis both blue and red light are the most efficient, but at certain stages the strength of each can make a difference.

Early growth and seedling stage

The blue light spectrum (400-500 nm) is essential for both seedlings and young plants as the light encourages them to establish a healthy root and stem structure during vegetative stages as they establish a healthy root and stem structure.

Vegetative growth stage

Blue light spectrums are credited with encouraging the vegetative growth stage and the structural growth of plants.

Flowering and fruiting stage

The best spectrum for aquarium plants light spectrum for this stage is the red (600-700nm) as is the one best absorbed by chlorophyll pigments.

Red will promote flowering and fruiting as well as helping stems to develop and leaves to grow.

It is red light that plays a key role in the plant’s maturity and its size.

There is, however, no single light spectrum that will guarantee a larger crop.

Types of Aquaria Light and Their Spectrum

A. Full Spectrum Lights

These tank lights are often nicknamed ‘daylight bulbs’ because the light they emit mimics natural daylight.

This type of bulb emits light at all visible wavelengths, so they are considered good all-purpose lights to choose for an aquarium.

LED lighting is relatively new in the aquatic world and proving very successful.

An LED light can last five years, making it economical – especially as running costs are low too.

LED lights can be used really creatively too, and a bonus is that they do not generate much heat.

C. T5 and T8 Fluorescent Lights

These are the most common types of aquarium lighting.

Both can be used to help your tank plants develop, but the T5 is more powerful so is recommended for best spectrum for aquarium plants. Especially if you are cultivating your tank plants densely.

If you have plants that demand a high level of lighting, two T5 fluorescent tubes could be good.

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D. Metal Halide Lights

Metal halide lights have long been popular for their energy efficiency although the Performance of LED lights is far better.

Having said that, a new 400-watt metal halide light will last up to 20,000 hours.

Metal halide lighting is intense, so they are a good choice for deep aquariums or if you need wide coverage.

This type of lighting does generate more heating and require more maintenance. Radium metal halide bulbs are purpose-built for growing corals in your tank.

LED lighting is fast becoming the popular way to achieve the best light spectrum for your tank, but there are some good tips to help you achieve the optimum lighting.

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Proper Placement of Lights

Research this a little, based on the type of fish and plants you have as their requirements will differ, but cool running and energy-efficient LED lighting suits many tanks and can provide the best spectrum for aquarium plants.

Using Timers for Consistency

It is important to be consistent with the timings for your aquarium lighting and a timer definitely makes life easier.

You want to have a good day/night balance for your tank with a maximum of 8 hours of light on full power and up to four hours at a lower strength- this will resemble natural sunshine as the midday sun is very different to early morning and evening sun.

If you set your timer for longer than this, you could damage your plants or encourage algae.

Adjusting Light Intensity and Duration

The best way to measure light intensity is using PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) numbers which are provided by tank light manufacturers to inform customers so that they can buy the light most suitable for their aquarium.

A PAR value of 75-100 μmols offers light for plants needing low light intensity, 125 ~150 μmols, for plants requiring medium light intensity and 200 μmols plus is for use with high light demanding plants.

The main consideration will be the depth of your fish tank as this will affect the amount of light penetrating to the bottom of your fish tank.

Generally, it is recommended to start off with low light in your aquarium as this is suitable for most aquatic plants.

Monitoring Plant Response

Your fish tank will have an ever-changing eco-system that will need to be monitored to ensure that you have got the lighting right.

When you have a new aquarium with young plants, less light will be needed than when the tank and its plants have matured.

If you have to make adjustments, always note down the light settings so that you can see what adjustments are working.

If you have the lighting very bright and the algae seems to be flourishing, it is best to turn the light intensity down.

When you start lighting your aquarium choose a light intensity of 20-40% brightness and slowly increase the intensity if there is no algae bloom. If algae does develop, you will need to lower the lighting again.

If you have any persistent problems, ask at your local aquatic center for advice.

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Real-life Examples and Case Studies of the Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

The amount of light in your aquarium is crucial if you are growing aquatic plants because without the right amount of light in the correct color spectrum they will fail to thrive and simply die.

You must tailor-make the lighting in your tank fit the environment you are creating, and this depends on the type of fish and plants you choose, and these choices are usually made depending on how much time you can dedicate to caring for your aquarium.

It is well worth seeking advice on your choices to avoid disappointment. All plants have different light needs but generally, the more light a plant requires, the harder that plant will be to grow successfully.

A much-quoted case study focuses on the beautiful Glossostigma Elantinoides.

When it is healthy and thriving, this gorgeous aquatic plant covers the floor of the fish tank like green velvet grass.

To achieve this is far from easy as this plant is really tricky to grow. It requires intense lighting and because of this, there is usually a battle with increased algae levels.

If the algae is kept in check, to keep the plant looking good takes time to keep well-fertilized and pruned and
another requirement is more frequent water changes.

Not surprisingly, many enthusiasts ditch their ideas of being successful and plump for easy-care plants instead.

Final Thoughts – Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

The success of your aquarium plants will depend on the lighting you choose and getting the best spectrum for aquarium plants.

It is essential to research the best spectrum for aquarium plants well as ideas will differ depending on your tank size and the types of fish and plants you have.

Your goal is to get the perfect balance in your aquarium between light, CO² levels and fertilizer.

When you achieve this, your fish will have a healthy environment and your tank plants will be flourishing and making keeping your tank well-maintained surprisingly easy.

12 Aggressive Freshwater Fish for Your Tank: With Pictures!

Trevor Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Freshwater Fish (info and tips), Info and Tips, Tropical Freshwater Fish (Care Guides), Uncategorized June 16, 2023November 27, 2023aggressive fish, Aggressive Freshwater Fish

In this guide, we will delve into the world of aggressive freshwater fish, exploring their special traits, tank set up, habitat, tankmates and appropriate care requirements.

We’ll also help you with being able to decrease aggressive behaviours in community tanks.

Factors That Affect Aquarium Fish Aggression

Aggressive behaviors can vary quite considerably between fish. With some fish the behavior is inherit, whilst with others aggressiveness may come about when provoked, or when the tank habitat is not appropriate for them.

Before purchasing aggressive fish, it is necessary to understand the requirements of each species that you plan to introduce to your tank.

Aggression During Breeding

Aggression in some fish is only evident during breeding times. A primal instinct kicks-in. It becomes a priority at all costs for the fish to establish a territory, fight off rivals, gain a mate and to protect young.

In many cases, juveniles are placid and get along peacefully in a community tank and with others of the same species. They only develop the aggressive behaviors on sexual maturity.

With consideration of feeding requirements, places to hide within a tank, compatible tank-mates and an appropriately sized tank, can all reduce aggressive behavior of adult fish wanting to breed.

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Provocation Causing Aggression

Larger territorial fish, such as Arowana fish, require extra large tanks if they are to coinhabit with other fish species.

These large fish need room to swim and feel relaxed. When they are forced to be in a confined space they will be more aggressive towards fish that come close to it.

This runs true with many of the smaller aggressive freshwater fish too. Never overcrowd their tanks and provide plenty of places for them to establish their territories and for them to hide if necessary. If they feel stressed they may chase and nip other fish.

Tankmates that are domineering will also cause fish with aggressive tendencies to feel threatened. This provocation can become a problem with anxious fish lashing out in self-preservation. Understanding which tankmates coexist best with your aggressive species will reduce aggression.

Some species like to be in a school as this gives them a sense of security having friends around them. Species such as Tiger Barbs are less aggressive towards one another and towards other fish in the tank if kept in groups of five or more.

In addition, when only two or three are kept together, the dominant fish may be inclined to bully the lesser fish.

Aggressive Freshwater Fish Are Usually Carnivorous

Carnivorous species of freshwater fish will eat pretty much any fish, invertebrate or mollusc that can fit in its mouth. By nature, many are ambush fish, keeping hidden, then darting out to eat prey. Piranhas will do this in groups, making them an even bigger threat in a tank with other smaller fish.

Slow moving fish, and fish with long fins, are an easy target. It is better to keep fish in the tank who can keep out of the way of carnivorous fish. Ensure plenty of hiding spots as well as room for these fish to keep their distances.

Feeding Time Leads to Aggressive Freshwater Fish

When food is presented to fish, often their true colors show. Larger aggressive fish dominate and will scoff the food before other fish get their share.

In many cases, these bossy fish are generally peaceful in the tank. It is simply the excitement at feeding time that provokes aggressiveness. Large adult plecos are an example of a fish that can become bossy at feeding time.

To reduce the aggressive behavior of fish during feeding time it better to spread the food around the tank, allowing some to float and some to sink. This way the fish spread out and all have an opportunity to eat.

12 Popular Aggressive Freshwater Fish

Tiger Barbs

When kept alone, Tiger Barbs can terrorize and potentially kill smaller fish. They tend to nip at fins and bully more passive species, such as guppies, goldfish, and betta fish. This behavior becomes more intense when Tiger Barbs are kept in smaller groups.

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Tiger Barbs thrive in water temperatures between 77-86°F. They will show less aggressive behavior when kept at optimal water temperature.

These fish do better when kept in groups of five or more. Individuals kept on their own are vulnerable and may feel threatened, which can lead to them being aggressive towards tank-mates. Also, in a group the pecking order has been established and the bullies amongst them can’t target single fish as they may if there were only a couple of barbs in the tank.

To reduce aggressive behavior in Tiger Barbs try the following:

Provide able swimming space with plenty of places for fish to move and to also hide.
Don’t place in a community tank with long finned passive fish.
Keep a group of 5 or more barbs.
Monitor their behavior and remove the aggressive individuals.
Keep optimal water conditions.

Gourami fishes

Male gourami fish, can become confrontational and exhibit fin-nipping behavior when threatened or defending their territory. They are often aggressive towards smaller fish.

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Originating from Southeast Asia, gouramis are adaptable to slow-moving streams and can survive in stagnant water. They prefer a water temperature of 77°F and pH 6.7.

A tank with plenty of aquarium plants will help reduce stress on the fish. Anxious gouramis can become aggressive.

Among Gourami species, Dwarf Gourami, Honey Gourami, Sparkling Gourami, and Chocolate Gouramis are generally more peaceful.

Here are some tips to reduce aggressive behavior in Gouramis:

Keep males as individuals. Females can be kept in groups.
Consider using a tank divider to keep gouramis away from other fish.
Add ornaments or plants to provide additional hiding places.
Reduce stress and anxiety by giving gouramis space, ensure water conditions are optimal, and don’t house them with other aggressive species that may threaten them.
Keep the smaller species of gouramis in a community aquarium.

Cichlids

There are numerous species of cichlids from different regions of the world. Many are known for their hostility, territorial behavior, and predatory nature towards other fish and invertebrates.

There are peaceful species of cichlids that do well in community tanks, however, some of these peaceful fish become fearlessly aggressive when they want to breed.

African cichlids in particular are known for their aggression, driven by their instinct to defend there territory during breeding.

Many cichlids are predators and will hunt down smaller fish. Others can be aggressive at feeding time as they compete for their meal.

Common aggressive cichlids kept by fish enthusiasts include:

Jewel Cichlid: with its stunning breeding colors of red with flecked green-blue flanks and gill covers.

Convict Cichlid: a territorial fish that feeds on worms, insects, and algae with black stripes.

Wolf Cichlid: built with a heavy body and strong jaw for hunting prey. This fish looks menacing and should only be kept with other large cichlids.

Umbee Cichlid: A huge fish, growing to 2 feet long. Not suitable to be kept with other species as it is a real hostile fish.

Poor Man’s Tropheus: an aggressive vegetarian that eats algae from rocks and will take on fish larger than itself.

Green Texus Cichlid: a hybrid cichlid that will eat any fish that can fit it its mouth.

Bumblebee Cichlid: brightly colored yellow and black aggressive species, particularly the males.

Red Devil Cichlid: a destructive fish with plenty of personality that will attack its own kind.

Acai Cichlid: a smaller species with abundant energy to defend territory and provoke other fish.

Jaguar Cichlid: A large fish that gets its name from its cat like demeanour and coloration.

Jack Demsey: named after a 1920’s boxer for its ferociousness and looks.

We delve deeper with these aggressive cichlids in another article.

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Puffer

Pufferfish are known for their powerful bites and volatile temperaments, making them a threat to peaceful community fish in close proximity.

They have a tendency to nip fins and can display outright aggression or predatory behavior. Due to their tendency to eat other fish and invertebrates, it is not recommended to house pufferfish with them.

Pufferfish can be found in warm and temperate regions worldwide. They have thick, often spiky skin and fused teeth, featuring a beak-like structure with a central split in each jaw.

While some pufferfish can grow up to 93 cm (2 feet) in length, many species are relatively small. It’s important to note that numerous pufferfish species are toxic, containing a highly poisonous substance called tetraodontoxin, which is concentrated in their organs.

Despite the risks associated with consuming pufferfish, they are still utilized as food in certain cultures.

Among freshwater aquariums, the Amazon Pufferfish is considered one of the more docile pufferfish species.

Pea Puffer

The Pea Puffer (Carinotetraodon travancoricus), also named the Dwarf Mini Puffer Fish, is one of the tiniest fish on Earth. They may appear cute, but their aggression, particularly among males, should not be underestimated.

Despite their miniature size, they will attempt to bite other fish in a community tank. It is recommended that they are best kept alone in a small aquarium. You can keep up to six pea puffers in a 20 gallon tank with plenty of shelter without other tankmates.

If putting them with tankmates, select species that can evade the nipping. Kuhli loaches, danios, neon tetras and cherry shrimp all make suitable tankmates. Ensure there is plenty of places for fish to move as well as hiding places for fish to retreat to.

Hobbyists enjoy this oddball species of fish as it has an unusual swimming manner, like a hovering helicopter. They are courageous and intelligent.

African leaf fish

The African Leaf Fish, also known as the Leopard Bush Fish, is not aggressive but highly predatory, consuming anything that can fit into its mouth. Despite its small size (3-4 inches), it can quickly eliminate all of the smaller fish in the tank.

This species originate from central Africa inhabiting pools, swamps, creeks and slow-moving rivers. They like to sit in amongst vegetation along the river banks.

The African Leaf Fish is a peaceful tank member which will get along very well with other fish species, so long as these fish are not small enough to eat. They shouldn’t he housed with other aggressive freshwater fish as they will easily be bullied.

Ideal tankmates are peaceful fish that are large enough not to be eaten, such as bala sharks, red-tail barbs, and silver dollars.

Smaller fish such as neon tetras will likely become prey if kept with this species.

Arowana

Arowanas are fiercely aggressive and do not tolerate other arowanas. The Australian arowana is considered to be the most aggressive, often killing all other fish in its tank. Silver and black arowanas are comparatively less aggressive.

In the wild, arowanas prey on fish, frogs, insects, and even larger animals like snakes and rabbits.

They have sleek bodies, reflective scales, and come in various colors and fin types. They move gracefully on the water’s surface.

Some color variations, such as the Silver arowana are valuable, with a price tag up to $25,000! Arowanas are a good luck in certain Asian cultures. They are believed to take on the illnesses of their owners.

Due to their value and aggression, most fish keepers house arowanas alone in large tanks and avoid community tanks. Due to their skittish nature Arowanas require at least 60 gallons to freely move about and a suitable lid as they will jump.

Black Wolffish

The Black Wolffish is a highly aggressive predator native to South America. It is a true predator and is a real threat to smaller fish. The aggression of this fish becomes even more so as it matures.

Usually, this fish keeps to itself. However, during times of breeding it will bond with a mate. The Wolf fish can grow to 28 inches, therefor requiring a large tank with relatively low water flow.

Suitable tankmates for this species include bichirs, silver dollars, catfish, peacock bass cichlids, and other large, fast-moving fish. Ensure there is plenty of room in the tank and plenty of hiding places.

When looking at the Wolffish you notice it’s large teeth and giant mouths. It is a true ambush predator, swiftly darting out from cover to consume its prey.

Betta Fish/Siamese Fighting Fish

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Betta fish, also known as Siamese Fighting Fish, display aggression through flaring their gills and fins, charging, and biting.

Wild bettas are carnivorous and largely feed on insects and their larvae. Male bettas are known for their fighting behavior. They will fight with other males, damaging their fins when bitten.

Females are less aggressive and can be kept in groups so long as there is shelter for them to escape to if need be.

Bettas are highly popular due to their beauty, intelligent character, and ability to thrive in small spaces.

These small territorial fish will defend their territory from other bettas. Long-finned bettas are generally slow and not a great threat to fast-moving fish, but they may nip the tails of other long-finned fish like guppies and goldfish.

Providing plenty of space in the aquarium will prevent bettas from feeling threatened and this will reduce their aggression. Betta fish can coexist with other fish species in tanks.

It is important to avoid housing betta fish with semi-aggressive fish like Tiger Barbs, as these species are known to nip the long fins of bettas.

Plecostomus

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Plecostomus, or plecos, are normally non-aggressive and prefer to hide in a community aquarium. Plecos may display semi-aggressive behavior if their needs are not adequately met.

This can be during times of competition for food, breeding, and battles over territory.

Juvenile fish are not a problem in a community tank. However, plecos grow quickly. One challenge with plecos is their potential growth to a large size, ranging from 12 to 24 inches, which can exceed the capacity of the aquarium.

Meeting their nutritional needs will help prevent plecos from potentially annoying other fish. When a large pleco aggressively feeds, it can intimidate other fish in the tank.

To ensure there is no competition over food, feed plecos plenty of algae wafers. Spread these around the tank.

Plecos will find places to hide out in the tank. Provide plenty of driftwood, hollows and caves large enough for them to fit inside.

Oscar

Oscars (Astronotus ocellatus) are very attractive aquarium fish with many new color ranges. They interact with their owners and will even take food from the hand.

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However, they do have a reputation for being fierce, dominant, and hostile fish. Oscars are aggressive towards other fish and tank decor.

This species grows up to one foot in size and requires a minimum of 55 gallons of water for one individual fish.

Oscars are destructive in the tank, showing aggression towards décor and equipment such as heaters and filters in the tank. It is best to use aquarium sumps where the aquarium equipment can be kept away from Oscars.

They do engage in “jaw” or “lip” locking when battling each other. Oscars will also nip at other fish and even human hands.

Oscars do best in an aquarium with other oscars as opposed to other fish species. If keeping them with other fish species, ensure they have similar tank requirements and have a temperament and size to match the oscars. For example, they should not be housed with African Cichlids due to their different needs.

Oscars love to eat and will produce quite a bit of tank wastes. Water changes and a large aquarium filter are necessary to keep these fish healthy.

Keep oscars in at least a pair or more if you have the room. Having three oscar fish isn’t ideal as one may be picked on if the other two pair off.

Rainbow shark

The Rainbow shark is a hardy active and easy to keep aquarium fish that is very poular amongst enthusiasts. Despite its name, this fish from tropical Thailand is not a real shark.

Rainbow sharks are not considered to be as aggressive as some of the species described above. Their semi-aggressive nature is generally only with adult fish towards other fish that inhabit the bottom of the tank.

It is best to select tankmates that can defend themselves but have a peaceful nature, such as Barbs and Danios. Rainbow sharks may display increased aggression towards other fish with a similar body type, like Rainbowfish.

Rainbow sharks are solitary. In a community aquarium it is better to keep only one shark. Provide ample space for the shark to minimize conflicts in the aquarium with other fish.

Rainbow sharks are easy to keep and with the right conditions will grow to 6 inches and live for 4-6 years. There is also an albino version of the Rainbow Shark sold in aquarium stores.

Piranha

There are over 60 species of Piranhas in the wild. They are carnivorous fish found in South American rivers and lakes, having a reputation for having razor-toothed jaws.

Piranhas are popular with aquarium hobbyists who keep them for their curiosity and aggressive nature. These fish grow to 12 inches and are best kept in groups.

Piranhas in the Aquarium

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Piranhas are attracted to the scent of blood. They are primarily scavengers, but can also hunt in groups, ambushing and chasing down their prey.

Juvenile piranhas tend to gather in groups for protection against predators. As they mature, they can become cannibalistic, attacking their own kind.

Keep piranhas with fish of similar size and temperament to avoid aggression. Piranhas can be skittish if startled and may hide in the tank.

Within a school of piranhas, a clear hierarchy forms, with the largest and most aggressive adult fish being dominant.

Ideally, house them in a 200 gallon tank where they have plenty of room to move. Small aquariums result in small unhappy fish.

Aggressive Freshwater Fish

Aggressive Freshwater Fish During Breeding

Often it is only during times of breeding that fish with an aggressive nature show their aggressiveness. Certain species become highly aggressive and protective, isolating themselves to defend their partner, nest, and fry. This behavior is very common in cichlids and snakehead species.

By understanding their behaviors and meeting their specific care requirements, aggression can be managed effectively, allowing for a captivating and harmonious aquatic environment.

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After successful pairing, breeding fish generally reduce their territory and gather around their eggs or fry to protect them from other predatory fish in the aquarium.

Several of the African cichlids will brood their eggs and fry in their mouths, adding to the alure of these fish.

Feeding Aggressive Freshwater Fish

Aggressive freshwater fish are known for their fast swimming and voracious appetite. They may eat other fish, even stealing food from the mouths and gills of their tank mates.

To minimize competition during feeding, offer a diverse range of floating or sinking food and distribute it throughout the tank using filter outflow or powerheads.

Head Butting or Biting Behavior

Fish aggressively attacks another by head-butting or biting its head. This aggressive encounter can cause timid fish to hide for extended periods. With some species, like oscars battling fish will lock jaws with one-another.

Final Thoughts – Aggressive Freshwater Fish

The world of freshwater aquarium fish offers a diverse range of aggressive species that captivate with their colors and unique behaviors. From the dominant Red Devil Cichlid to the predatory instincts of the Piranha, these fish bring interest and beauty to the aquarium.

By carefully considering tank setup, fish habitat and nature, aquarists can create thriving environments that showcase the captivating nature of these aggressive freshwater fish.

It is a privilege to be able to witness the remarkable diversity of nature within the confines of your own home aquarium.

To discover more about aggressive freshwater fish check out our article on the 12 Top Aggressive Cichlids.

Silver Sharks Unleashed: The Complete Bala Shark Care Guide!

Trevor Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Care Guides, Freshwater Aquarium Sharks (Care Guides), Info and Tips, Tropical Freshwater (guides) June 15, 2023November 27, 2023Aquarium Sharks, bala shark, sharks, silver shark

This comprehensive Bala Shark Care Guide is designed to provide detailed insights into the proper care and maintenance of these remarkable aquatic species.

Bala sharks (Balantiocheilos melanopterus), are a stunning freshwater fish that has caught the attention of many aquarium enthusiasts. They are native to the streams and rivers of South East Asia and can be found in a range of habitas from swift-flowing waters to large rivers and natural lakes.

Whether you are experienced with keeping aquarium fish or a newbie considering adding your first Bala shark to your collection, tis comprehensive Bala shark care guide will equip you with what you need to know to ensure the well-being and success with keeping this awesome fish.

Bala Shark Care Guide

Bala sharks, also known as Silver Bala, Silver Shark and Tricolored Minnows; are not actual sharks but were named because of their torpedo-shaped bodies, triangle dorsal fin, and rigid fins, resembling a shark. Bala sharks inhabit freshwater environments.

Description

A popular fish among hobbyists, it has a silver body with black margins on its dorsal, caudal, anal, and pelvic fins.

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The Bala has yellowish striped fins with black lines, and its ventral fins are small and sometimes monocolored.

It has a grey body with slightly uneven gradients, with closely spaced scales that allow for effortless movement through the water. Bala sharks have large eyes allowing it to cruise around the tank and survey all the goings on.

How Large Can the Bala Shark Grow?

In the wild, Bala sharks are considered to be rare. The fish available in aquarium shops are typically bred in fish farms.

They can reach lengths of up to 1 foot or 13 inches, making this species very large for the average home aquarium. These “sharks” require spacious tanks to accommodate their size.

Fish shops sell juvenile Bala sharks that are usually around 3 – 4 inches long. These fish, if fed right in a good sized tank, can grow up to six inches in one season.

The Bala shark is a schooling fish and are much happier when kept in a group. For that reason, people keeping this species will need a tank to accommodate many individuals.

Origin and Distribution of the Bala Shark

Once prolific in Southeast Asia, the Bala shark has experienced a great decline in its numbers in the wild. There are concerns that it has become extinct in many areas where it used to be common.

Today it is a threatened species. It has been on the IUCN Red List since 1996.

Habitat degradation, environmental changes like river damming, over-fishing by the aquaculture industry, and increasing water pollution are all factors that have contributed to this species decline in population.

Bala Shark Care Guide: Ideal Habitat and Aquarium Tank Size

Ideal Habitat:

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Specific conditions for their ideal habitat.

Water sensitivity: Sensitive to water conditions and temperature, prone to Itch (white spot disease) and bacterial infections in high temperatures.
They will jump: Tightly covering the fish tank is important as Bala Sharks have a inclination to jump when disturbed.
Swimming space: Decorate the tank with large, secure plants around the edges, leaving plenty of space in the center for swimming.
Outdoors: Ensure warm temperatures throughout the winter and provide a sheltered area from the elements. Alternately, keep them in ponds during the summer and in a heated aquarium during winter.
Well-oxygenated water: This is essential, and a circulation pump can be used in moderation to simulate a flowing environment like what they would have in their natural habitat.

Aquarium Tank Size

When keeping a number of individuals in the tank it is crucial that you provide a spacious area for them to swim and interact. Bala sharks are very active fish who will swim about the tank quickly. Here are some points to note:

Require a tank size of at least 100 gallons.
Include aquarium décor for sharks to hide in amongst.
Being excellent swimmers accustomed to fast-flowing water, they should be housed in a longer tank, rather than a deeper tank.
Maintain regular water flow by using flow pumps to create currents and increase oxygen levels.
Ensure the tank has a top glass cover to prevent fish jumping out.
As they grow larger, they will need to be moved to larger aquariums.

Bala Shark Care Guide: Maintaining a Healthy Aquarium Environment

Bala shark are a hardy freshwater fish species and their care is relatively simple. Here are some suggestions to keeping them healthy:

Clean Aquarium: Regularly clean the aquarium and ensure water chemical levels and temperatures remain stable for optimal conditions. Bala sharks are vulnerable to diseases if the water becomes polluted. Maintain clean water with a suitable biological filter to mimic their natural habitat.
Fresh and Nutritious Food: Provide them with a quality balanced commercial food. Add variety with the addition of live foods.
Monitor Behavior: Erratic behavior like swimming between themselves, playing dead, or crashing into glass walls may indicate that aquarium parameters are off or they lack sufficient swimming space.

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Unless your setup has a large sump tank and efficient biological filter, regular cleaning and water changes are necessary to maintain good water quality. Performing partial water changes every week or two helps remove accumulated waste and maintain optimal water conditions for the fish.

Bala Shark Water Parameters

Maintain appropriate water conditions for your Bala Shark. The recommended pH range is between 6.5 and 8.

Aim for a water hardness of 12 dGH. Set the temperature to between 76°F and 80°F.

Regular water testing will ensure that the environment is right for these fish, avoiding health issues.

Temperament of the Bala Shark

Although Bala sharks get big, they are mostly peaceful with other fish in the tank and rarely eat smaller fish, unless tiny the fish are tiny fry.

Balas are very outgoing, and will spend much of their time interacting with one another and exploring the aquarium. They will establish a hierarchy with the other Bala sharks in the group. It is recommended to keep a group of five or more specimens to prevent harassment of subdominant members. As the fish reaches sexual maturity this behavior become more apparent.

When fish are first introduced to an aquarium, they may initially be timid and easily startled. They may seek to hide in amongst plants and decor. Once they have settled in, the Bala sharks will actively swim about the tank, liking the open spaces.

This species of fish will jump, and accidents may happen if the aquarium doesn’t have a secure cover.

A common injury to fish that have been recovered after jumping out of the tank is the loss of the slime coat over the eye. Treatment should be provided to restore the slime coat eyes.

Balas can be quite greedy eaters and can scoff food presented before slower fish get a chance to eat their share. Other than that, they are generally peaceful and do not pose significant challenges.

Suitable Silver Shark Tankmates

Bala sharks have a peaceful nature. They usually get along well with other calm natured and similarly-sized fish species that can endure their active swimming behavior. To prevent conflicts and undue stress, aggressive or territorial fish, like aggressive African Cichlids, should be avoided as tankmates.

Juvenile Bala sharks are no problem at all in a community tank. They can coexist peacefully with other aquarium fish. However, as they mature into adulthood, they may begin to view smaller fish like neon tetras as food.

They are a schooling fish that thrive in groups of six or more. When kept alone or in small numbers, Balas tend to be skittish. Dominant individuals may bully others. For a harmonious environment keep at least four Bala sharks in a mixed community of fish.

Avoid keeping Balas with invertebrates such as shrimp or snails. These creatures are part of their natural diet. However, if you have a snail problem, Balas can be helpful in keeping their numbers down.

Balas can intimidate slow-moving fish in the tank due to their active energetic nature. Ensure you keep these fish in a large (preferably long) tank that can accommodate adult Bala sharks. By giving them plenty of room to swim tank-mates will be able to keep away from them.

When fist introducing Bala sharks to an aquarium, they will initially be shy. But if introduced to the tank in a school of five or six, they will gain confidence from the group and quickly settle in. You will be able to observe them shoaling together, forming bonds while foraging for food.

Once a school of Bala sharks is established, it is not a good idea to introduce additional sharks, as it can lead to the development of a pecking order where dominant individuals assert their superiority.

Feeding Your Bala Shark:

They are omnivores, consuming plants, small crustaceans, insects and their larvae, rotifers, and other invertebrates in their natural habitat.

In an aquarium, Balas readily accept various types of food, including dry flakes, live food, frozen shrimp or blood worms, and pellets.

A well balanced diet will keep your Bala sharks in good health. Like most aquarium fish, feed them three times a day for proper growth.

Consider the inclusion of vegetables such as peas with pods, cooked spinach, and chopped fruit.

Bala Shark Care Guide Diseases

Bala sharks are known for their resilience and longevity. By giving these fish a nutritious diet and keeping the quality of their tank water optimal, Bala will live for ten years.

Regular attention and periodic water changes are necessary to keep them thriving.

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Balas are resilient to most illnesses. However, Ich (also called White Spot) can be a problem. Ich is a disease that attacks the skin, and it is a highly infectious parasitic disease. It may be introduced to the aquarium by another sick fish or it may come about if the fish are under stress or the water is poor quality.

Before starting treatment for Ich remove carbon from the filter as it can render the medication ineffective. Also, raise the aquarium temperature by 4 degrees Fahrenheit and add aquarium salt to the water. Finally, introduce parasite medication into the water.

Alternatively, remove infected fish to be treated to a smaller hospital tank.

Careful monitoring, especially during feeding, can help detect any signs of illness. If you observe unusual behaviors, then it pays to investigate further for illness.

Behaviors such as such as rubbing on substrate or rocks, frenzied spasmodic swimming or lethargy (not eating). Also body changes such as: marks or spots on the fish, swelling or a loss of color.

It’s important to be mindful of their jumping behavior.

Breeding Bala Sharks in a Home Aquarium

Requirements and Conditions:

Captive Bala sharks are difficult to breed. However, if you are keen to try then the following guide will help you understand the optimal requirements for successful spawning of these fish.

Bala sharks reach reach maturity at around 3-4 years old. They will need to be a minimum length of 5 inches (33 cm) before expecting them to be ready to breed. Due to their size, a large tank is necessary. The sharks should also be healthy and in optimal condition.

Breeding Tank Setup:

If you intend removing the adults from the tank after spawning use this setup:

A minimum of 55 gallons of water is required for a breeding tank. Maintain the temperature at 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Provide open space for the fish to swim and include plants along the tank’s edges for hiding spaces.

Keep the tank bottom bare for easier cleaning and better visibility of the fry. Ensure proper filtration, preferably with a sponge filter to prevent the fry from being sucked up.

To replicate spawning in their natural habitat, create a flow of water in the tank using an air stone or pump.

Male and female differences:

Telling the difference between male and female sharks can be difficult. By observing their behavior in a group of 6 or 7 can provide clues. Males tend to be slightly larger, while females develop a swollen abdomen as their eggs develop.

Spawning and Care:

Prior to breeding, feed the adult fish a high-protein diet consisting of live foods to prime them for reproduction. Introduce five or six mature fish to the tank.

When ready, the fish will engage in a courtship dance that stimulates the female to release her eggs.

Spawning behavior is like other fish in the cyprinid family, where the female scatters eggs near the substrate and the male fertilizes them.

A consistent water flow is helpful to mix the sperm with the eggs.

After spawning and fertilization remove the adults from the tank, leaving the eggs to hatch and grow. Alternatively, remove the eggs and place them in a separate aquarium for hatching. Parents do not care for the offspring and will quickly eat the eggs.

Adding Methylene Blue treatment to the tank water will stop bacterial build-up.

Raising Bala Shark Fry:

If the process of spawning was a success, you can expect fry in about 3-4 day. Maintain good filtration in the tank.

Once the fry become free-swimming and have absorbed their egg yolks, then it is time to feed them. To start with, boil a chicken egg and crush the yolk between your fingers into the tank.

Do this for a day or two, then provide a selection of food consisting of newly hatched brine shrimp, ciliated cyclops, artemia nauplii and quality commercial fry food.

When fed well with the right food, Bala sharks have a rapid growth rate, and it may be necessary to transfer them to larger tanks as they develop.

Final Thoughts – Bala Shark Care Guide

Bala sharks are an excellent addition kept as a small school of fish to any large aquarium. They are energetic, peaceful fish. When well looked after with correct nutrition and with tank water kept within optimal ranges, these entertaining fish can live ten years or more. Our Bala shark care guide provides a comprehensive look at the extraordinary aquarium fish species.

Platinum Arowana Dragonfish – Meet Our Most Expensive Fish!

Trevor Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Care Guides, Info and Tips, Tropical Freshwater (guides), Tropical Freshwater Fish (Care Guides), Uncategorized June 10, 2023July 29, 2023arowana, dragonfish, platinum Arowana

The Platinum Arowana is widely recognized as one of the most expensive freshwater fish in the world. Its visually captivating appearance makes it highly sought after by affluent fish keepers who are willing to pay a premium to become its proud owners.

Let’s delve into more details about this tropical species and understand why it commands such a high price.

An overview of the Platinum Arowana (osteoglossum bicirrhosum)

The Platinum Arowana belongs to the Osteoglossidae family. It is a unique threatened fish native to Brazil.

Arowana habitat

The main habitats of this fish are the freshwater rivers, lakes, and ponds in tropical South America. Concentrations can be found in the Amazon River basin, Rupununi, and Oyapock Rivers. It is able to thrive in diverse environments, including flooded forests.

The Arowana is a true carnivore

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The Arowana is a hunter, seeking prey of fish, insects and other small animals found on the water surface.

What sets this carnivore fish apart from other hunters is its extraordinary ability to spit to catch prey. They are able to target prey such as insects in low hanging branches and knock them into the water with a squirt of water. This hunting technique is not common among fish. The Archer fish from Australia is another species of fish that uses this technique.

The Arowana is a very fast powerful fish. Its power and the unique hunting technique solidifies its reputation as one of the most amazing and mysterious fish kept by aquarists.

Description of the Platinum Arowana

The Platinum Arowana streamlined body that resembles an eel and its shiny metallic scales that exhibit a mesmerizing pale silver color, make this a very sort after fish.

Its large eyes, oblique mouths, and tapered tail, contribute to its sleek and elegant appearance. In addition, the merging of its dorsal and pectoral fins with the snout, enhances its streamlined look.

The Arowana has two barbels located at its jaw. These barbels allow the fish to sense movements in its surroundings. The fish has a calm confident appearance as it swims gracefully around its tank.

Its slender body is adorned with massive scales that contribute to its majestic appearance and add to its allure. Some scales measure up to an inch in length.

Arowanas have been bred to come in a variety of colors, including silver, blue, and red. Providing enthusiasts with a range of options to choose from.

Arowanas, a threatened species

Due to habitat destruction and illegal mining the Silver Arowana, a close relative of the Platinum Arowana, the fish is under great threat in certain regions. It is considered to be a local delicacy, leading to intense fishing of this species.

To preserve this extraordinary fish and its habitat, there needs to be a concerted effort with conservation and responsible fishing practices.

By preserving this fish’s natural habitat and through responsible fish farming practices, will ensure the survival of this remarkable fish.

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Why is the Platinum Arowana so sort after?

Fish keepers seek to own this fish as it is a true marvel of nature! Its exceptional hunting technique, impressive physical attributes, confident personality, and adaptability to thrive in diverse freshwater habitats lures people to this fish.

Owning and caring for the Platinum Arowana requires knowledge and experience. However, the rewards of admiring its beauty and being able to watch its unique behaviors make it a worthwhile for the dedicated aquarium enthusiast.

Due to its rarity and beauty, the Platinum Arowana is much sought after aquarium fish. It commands a very high market value with enthusiasts, in some instances, paying more than $300,000 to own this remarkable fish!

Owning this fish isn’t for the light-hearted. Careful attention is required to meet its demanding needs. Arowanas have substantial appetites and require a large and well-equipped tank to thrive.

How long does an Arowana live for?

In captivity, the Platinum Arowana can live for 15 – 21 years or even longer. This depends on the quality of care provided.

Owning a ‘Dragonfish’ brings good luck

The Platinum Arowana is also often referred to as the “Dragonfish”. Its majestic presence, characterized by large scales, extended fins, streamlined body, barbels, and upward-pointing teeth give this fish an appearance and demeanour of a Dragon. Thus, contributing to why this awe-inspiring fish is such a highly sought-after and valuable ornamental fish.

Believed to bring good luck and prosperity among many Asian collectors, this rare fish is a gem among aquatic creatures.

The challenge of keeping Platinum Arowanas

Arowanas have specific care requirements requiring expertise and experience when acquiring and keeping them.

These “monster” fish are capable of growing nearly four feet in length in their natural habitat. Therefore a well-equipped and spacious tank is necessary for their well-being.

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Tank requirements for keeping Arowanas

Arowanas are demonstrate impressive leaping abilities! Provide a large, wide, and deep tank to accommodate this jumping behavior. Having the correct tank set-up will prevent the fish from excessive contact with the bottom or sides of the tank.

Additional tank reinforcement by covering it with plexiglass or nets will prevent fish jumping out. Due to their robust and aggressive behavior, it is best to only house one Platinum Arowana in the tank.

Due to the fish’s size and strength, it is necessary to have a tank that can hold at least 150 gallons and water with extra-thick glass. Having a sturdy tank will better withstand this magnificent fish’s power and ensure that they are kept safe from injury and stress.

To allow the fish to move around freely without injury, it is better to provide a tank free of obstacles. These fish require lots of open space to swim.

The fish’s beauty can be enhanced by illuminated lights or mirrors.

Arowana Platinum diet and feeding

The Platinum Arowana is a carnivore. In the wild the Arowana is known for capturing prey from the water’s surface.

Keepers of this fish feed fish, crickets, shrimp, and similar live foods. These can be bred by the hobbyist or bought commercially.

It is not always convenient or ideal for these fish to be reliant on live foods. Live foods can also introduce pathogens and diseases into the tank, posing a risk to the fish. So, some hobbyists prefer to feed them on commercial pelleted food. Arowans can be conditioned to eating commercial foods.

When introducing live foods, it is recommended to quarantine them before introducing them to the aquarium.

Arowanas are all individuals and will have their preferences for foods- some fish may be finicky. You may need to experiment with different foods to find out which they will take readily.

Always look for quality when feeding Arowanas. Look for a diet rich in nutrients. By doing so, will ensure a healthy long living fish.

Platinum Arowana tankmates

Due to the size and aggressive behavior of this fish, it is not recommended to keep them in a tank with other fish. They tend to do best when kept on their own. Conflicts and undue stress will result when housed with other species.

Being a solitary predatory fish that is best suited for an exclusive tank setup. Careful considerations and planning need to be made if deciding to include tank-mates.

Look for semi-aggressive and passive species. Consider Oscars, Black Ghost Knife Fish, Pacu, Silver Dollar, Clown Loach, Pleco, larger cichlids, Flying Fox, Redtail Catfish, Tiger Shovel Nose Catfish, and Iridescent Shark.

Interesting traits of the Arowana

Platinum Arowanas have a natural inclination to swim near the water’s surface. They are a apex predators looking for prey on the surface. Some fish in the wild have discovered with bats and snakes in their stomachs. Thus, highlighting their exceptional hunting ability.

Another astonishing trait is its incredible jumping ability. Arowanas can leap up to six feet from the water’s surface to catch bugs, frogs and even birds perched on branches.

Arowanas demonstrate athleticism and adaptability in acquiring food sources.

Breeding Platinum Arowanas

Similar to some other fish species such as the cichlids, the Platinum Arowana is a mouth brooder.

Once the eggs are laid and fertilized, the male carefully collects them into his mouth. He will devote himself entirely to the protection of the eggs. The eggs take about a month to hatch.

During this period, the male Arowana abstains from eating. He devotes himself to focusing solely on nurturing and safeguarding the precious eggs.

The male will continue to protect the fry in his mouth for a further two to three months.

The mouth-brooding behavior of the Arowanas highlight their devotion to protecting their offspring.

The breeding process of this extraordinary species fascinates hobbyists and adds to the lure of keeping this fish.

Gender differences

Telling the difference between male and female Arowanas is very difficult. There are no real visual differences. In order to accurately identify the sex of a breeding pair DNA test is required.

Final thoughts

The Platinum Arowana stands as an exceptional highly desired fish, known for its unique characteristics and unparalleled beauty. Its captivating presence is enhanced by its sleek, flat body, metallic scales, and distinctive features.

This highly valued species captures the attention and admiration of dedicated fish keepers worldwide. It is a true gem among aquatic creatures.

How Long Does It Take for Cory Catfish Eggs to hatch? Guide

Trevor Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Care Guides, Catfish/Cory (Care Guides), Tropical Freshwater (guides), Uncategorized June 9, 2023November 27, 2023breeding, corries, cory, cory catfish, corydoras

How long does it take for cory catfish eggs to hatch? In this ultimate guide, we will delve into the intriguing topic of Cory Catfish egg incubation, shedding light on the duration required for their hatching process.

Corydoras, the beloved freshwater fish, have garnered immense popularity among aquaculture enthusiasts.

With their social nature and preference for group living, they thrive when kept in sizable clusters of 6 to 7 individuals or more, making them excellent additions to community aquariums.

These charming bottom feeders also serve as beneficial tank companions, particularly for messy fish, as they assist in maintaining tank cleanliness.

Known for their scavenging habits, Corydoras spend a significant portion of their lives foraging for food scraps, algae, and biofilm within their aquatic habitats.

How Long Does It Take for Cory Catfish Eggs to hatch?

The short answer to how long does it take for cory catfish eggs to hatch is…

Cory Catfish eggs typically take around three to six days to hatch. However, it’s important to note that the hatching time can be influenced by factors such as water temperature.

If the water temperature remains below 82 degrees Fahrenheit, the eggs may take longer to hatch.

During the hatching process, the eggs will appear smooth. You may be able to observe the movement of the developing fry inside.

Breeding Cory Catfish

Understanding Cory Catfish Breeding and Egg Hatching (Complete Guide)

Cory catfish are known to lay their eggs during dusk when conditions are favorable. Unlike other fish species that lay

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hundreds of eggs, Corydoras typically lay between 10 and 15 eggs.

In this article, we will discuss the steps involved in raising Corydoras and ensuring the safe hatching of their eggs.

Distinguishing Male and Female Cory Catfish

Differentiating between male and female Cory Catfish can be challenging until they reach sexual maturity, which usually takes at least five months. However, once they become sexually active, certain behavioral and physical characteristics can help identify their gender.

Physical differences

Physical differences between male and female Cory Catfish include the body shape. Females are typically wider, with a thicker abdomen compared to males.

It’s important to note that these characteristics can vary slightly among different Cory Catfish species, so it’s advisable to consult species-specific references or experts for accurate identification.

Behavioral differences

Male Cory Catfish often exhibit a distinct behavior pattern of harassing females. Males will follow a female cory around while courting her. Males present their abdomen toward her head, creating what is known as the “Corydoras T-position.”

Male/female ratio

Maintaining a harmonious environment usually involves a male-female ratio of one male per female or having two females for each male.

Sexing young corydoras catfish

Sexing young catfish is not possible as they are sexually immature. It is recommended to wait for up to a year to observe their correct sex. Attempting to breed them before sexual maturity can be stressful for the fish and should be avoided.

Male Corydoras typically reach sexual maturity between 6 to 9 months of age. However, it is advisable to wait until they are fully mature before breeding them.

Monitoring their size can provide some indication of maturity, and maintaining a group of at least 15-20 healthy fish can enhance the chances of successful spawning in the future.

It is interesting to note that Corydoras do not change their sex; once they are born male, they will remain male throughout their lives.

Setting up a breeding tank for Cory Catfish

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Creating a suitable breeding tank for Corydoras catfish requires careful preparation. It is crucial to have a cycled and well-prepared tank, keeping the setup simple without complex accessories that complicate cleaning.

Including live plants, such as Java moss, Java Fern, and Pennyworth, in the breeding tank not only enhances the fry’s safety during their early stages but also provides a natural food source for them.

These plants add a natural touch to the tank while serving as hiding places and natural food source for the fry.

Using a heater to maintain a temperature of between 74° and 80° F is ideal for breeding most species of Cory fish.

Test the pH and alkalinity of the tank water. Ideally, a pH between 7.0 and 8.0 a, and alkalinity between 3° and 10° dKH (54ppm to 180ppm) will best suit breeding.

Preparing Cories for breeding

To prepare Cory catfish for breeding, ensure they are sexually mature, as young or immature fish will not breed.

Some breeders use rainwater in the aquarium to encourage more natural mating.

Feeding the fish live or fresh food is recommended by experts, as it helps condition them for reproduction, leading to improved egg quality and breeder recovery.

Encouraging Spawning

Encouraging spawning in Corydoras catfish can be achieved through various methods. One effective technique is to perform a water change of approximately 25% with slightly cooler water temperature.

This change in temperature can trigger the fish’s reproductive behavior and stimulate spawning. A drop in temperature mimics the dry season and triggers their natural reproductive behavior.

Another approach to encourage spawning is to create a darker environment for the fish. Some breeders use a breeding tank placed in darkness or opt for a black plastic garbage bin as a breeding container.

The reduced light can mimic natural conditions and promote the spawning behavior in Corydoras catfish.

These methods are not guaranteed to work in every case, as the breeding behavior of fish can be influenced by a combination of factors.

Monitoring the behavior of the fish and making adjustments as needed can help in achieving breeding success.

How do I tell if my Cory Catfish is with eggs?

To identify if your female Cory Catfish is preparing to spawn, look for a swollen abdomen, which is a sign that she is carrying eggs. Cory Catfish can develop eggs relatively quickly.

The age at which Corydoras catfish are ready to breed can vary based on the species, with some reaching sexual maturity around 9 to 12 months of age. Being aware of their readiness ensures that you don’t spend time raising fish that are not yet sexually mature.

Deposition of Corydoras Eggs

Female Corydoras catfish typically deposit their fertilized eggs on flat surfaces, often in clusters that attach to the chosen surface.

Look for signs of egg laying near on or near flat rocks, plants or water filters.

If the females have deposited their eggs, their abdomen will reduce in size.

Infertile Eggs

Unfertilized eggs laid by female Corydoras catfish are usually teardrop-shaped and can be found on the bottom of the tank. These infertile eggs are often a result of stress or the fish being immature in age.

Infertile eggs of Corydoras catfish tend to decay over time (they will develop a white fuzz over the egg), while fertile eggs have a hatching period of approximately five days.

A black band on the surface of the egg indicates its fertility and the potential for the development of a healthy fry. Additionally, fertile Corydoras eggs have gray spots of a dark color, while infertile eggs appear white or clear.

By making a single observation, you can determine which eggs to keep, as those that are fertile will produce live Corydoras catfish.

Note that not all healthy offspring will necessarily come from these fertile eggs. Some eggs may produce fry with poor health.

As the keeper, it is necessary to wait until the eggs hatch to identify the most vigorous Corydoras offspring and cull the others.

How long does it take for cory catfish eggs to hatch? (Incubation and Hatching Time)

Corydoras eggs typically take three to six days to hatch. During this time, it is important to maintain optimal conditions in the breeding tank. Monitoring the water parameters and temperature is crucial for the successful development of the eggs.

It is particularly important to be cautious if fungus is present on the eggs, as it can be detrimental to their development. Remove these eggs if you can and add Methylene Blue anti-fungal medication to the water.

Separating the Eggs

For the safety and successful hatching of the eggs, it is advised to remove them from the breeding tank and transfer them to a separate hatchery tank. Carefully transfer the eggs to the hatchery tank and keep them there until they hatch.

Alternatively, if the breeding tank is set up for raising the fry, after the eggs are laid, remove the adult fish. The fry can then remain in this tank once they hatch.

How long does it take for cory catfish eggs to hatch? (what to do after hatching)

After hatching, the baby Corydoras catfish start consuming tiny plankton. You may notice thread-like structures sticking out of their stomachs while feeding.

To support their healthy growth, the fry should be provided with a protein-rich diet. Feed them live foods like brine shrimp nauplii multiple times a day. Introduce powdered fry food or crushed flake food after a week.

Maintain optimal water conditions and avoid overfeeding to prevent excess food debris.

At three to four weeks, the fry can transition to commercial feed. Daphnia and micro worms are also suitable food options.

Take extra care of the fry as they are initially small and delicate, ensuring a well-maintained environment for their development.

Preparing for New Cory Catfish Fry and Avoiding New Tank Syndrome

To accommodate the growing Cory catfish fry and provide space for future inhabitants, it is advisable to set up a larger tank in advance.

You will have approximately four weeks from the time the eggs are laid until the fry are ready to join the rest of the family.

New tank syndrome

New tank syndrome can occur if the aquarium’s filter system is inadequate or uncycled. It is crucial to have beneficial bacteria present in the tank to maintain low levels of ammonia.

Sudden and significant changes in water parameters can harm the helpful bacteria and lead to fish diseases.

To prevent new tank syndrome and ensure a healthy environment for your fish:

Set up a Properly Sized Tank: Plan for a larger tank to accommodate the growing fry and future occupants. This will provide ample space and help prevent overcrowding.

Cycle the Tank: Establish a beneficial bacterial colony by cycling the tank before adding fish. This process helps build up the necessary bacteria to convert harmful ammonia into less toxic substances.

Monitor Water Parameters: Regularly test and monitor the water parameters, including ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Aim for stable and appropriate levels to support the well-being of your fish.

Avoid Sudden Water Changes: Gradually introduce any changes in water parameters to prevent shocking the system and harming the beneficial bacteria. Monitor and adjust temperature, pH, and other water parameters gradually and with care.

Breeding Frequency of Corydoras

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Corydoras catfish have the potential to breed frequently throughout their lifespan, given the appropriate conditions. The breeding frequency of these fish is influenced by factors such as species, age, and overall health.

To ensure the well-being of the fish, it is advisable to provide a recovery period between breeding cycles. This allows the fish to regain their strength and replenish their energy reserves before attempting another breeding. Waiting at least a few months between breeding cycles is generally recommended.

Corydoras catfish can lay eggs throughout the year. With a good diet and proper water quality, these fish can breed consistently. Each catfish can produce around 10-15 eggs. The mother typically deposits her eggs between glass surfaces or near plants.

By following a balanced breeding schedule and providing adequate intervals between breeding cycles, you can promote the health and longevity of your Corydoras catfish population.

Definition of Cory Catfish

Cory Catfish, scientifically known as Corydoras, is a South American species of catfish that inhabits creeks and shallow water beds.

These bottom-dwelling fish exhibit playful behavior as they sift through sand and gravel in search of food. They thrive in environments with dense vegetation, which provides them with hiding spots.

Charles Darwin encountered Cory Catfish during his famous Beagle voyage in the early 19th century, discovering them between 1831 and 1836.

These catfish prefer shallow, not too cold water with slow flows, and there are over 200 known species of Cory catfish.

Guide to keeping a colony of adult cory catfish

Cory Catfish have a gentle temperament and are enjoyable to observe. They are compatible with most fish but should not be kept with territorial or aggressive species like cichlids.

They prefer flowing water and benefit from well-maintained water filters and a tank environment with adequate plants, wood, and stones for resting and hiding.

Cory Catfish are social creatures and should be kept in groups of at least five to thrive and display their best behavior.

Corydoras Diet

In terms of diet, Cory Catfish are omnivorous scavengers that feed on the bottom of the tank.

It is important to not rely solely on leftover food being fed to the other tank dwellers, and instead provide them with a balanced diet of high-quality animal and vegetable protein. There are may commercial cory food products available.

Overfeeding should be avoided as it can lead to water pollution and negatively impact the fish’s health by increasing nitrate and ammonia levels.

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Water parameters for cory catfish

Maintaining suitable water parameters is crucial for the well-being of Corydoras catfish. It is recommended to keep the pH level between 6.0 and 7.4, while the temperature should be maintained within the range of 71°F to 84°F.

Corydoras catfish are highly sensitive to changes in water temperature. Having an aquarium heater is important to ensure a stable temperature that supports the health of these aquatic animals.

Fluctuations in temperature can weaken their immune system, making them more susceptible to diseases and other unfavorable conditions.

While minor variations in water parameters can be tolerated, it is essential to strive for stability. Corydoras catfish are particularly sensitive to ammonia and nitrate, which can be harmful to them.

Specific water parameter requirements may vary depending on the species of corydoras.

Corydoras tank size

For a group of five medium to large-sized Cory Catfish, a minimum tank size of 30 gallons is recommended.

Substrate

An essential part of the tank, the substrate must be soft and rounded. Otherwise, it can hurt the barbels of the fish, which are very sensitive. It is best to use fine sand, gravel, small stones, or coarse sand can cause discomfort to the animal.

Common Diseases in Cory Catfish and their Treatment

Bacterial infections

Bacterial infections are among the most prevalent diseases that can affect not only Cory catfish but also other species in an aquarium. Bacteria tend to thrive in poor water conditions, making it crucial to maintain good water quality to prevent infections.

Fungal infections

Fungal infections are another common disease that can affect Cory catfish. These infections are often a result of turbulent conditions and ammonia spikes in the tank.

Signs of fungal infection include increased nervous behavior, scratching against tank walls or decorations, and the appearance of tufts on the eyes and face.

Prevention of disease

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To address these diseases and promote the health of your Cory catfish, the following steps can be taken:

Maintain Water Quality: Regularly test and monitor water parameters such as pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Perform partial water changes as needed to maintain optimal water conditions.
Quarantine and Treatment: If you suspect a bacterial or fungal infection, promptly isolate the affected fish in a separate quarantine tank. This will help prevent the spread of the disease to other tank inhabitants.

Consult with an aquatic specialist for proper diagnosis and appropriate treatment options, which may include antibiotics or antifungal medications.

Improve Tank Conditions: Address any underlying issues that contribute to poor water quality, such as overstocking, overfeeding, or inadequate filtration. Ensure proper tank maintenance, including regular cleaning and removal of uneaten food and debris.

Taking preventive measures is crucial to avoid diseases in the first place. This includes maintaining a clean and well-maintained tank, providing proper nutrition, avoiding sudden changes in water parameters, and introducing new fish or plants after a quarantine period.

Remember, the specific treatment and prevention methods may vary depending on the type of infection and the recommendations of professionals in the field.

How long do Cory catfish live for?

With proper care, Cory Catfish can live up to five years. Providing them with a well-balanced diet, excellent water quality, and suitable living conditions can contribute to their longevity.

In their natural habitat, their lifespan is usually shorter due to predation and other environmental factors.

Final Thoughts (How long does it take for cory catfish eggs to hatch?)

How long does it take for cory catfish eggs to hatch? The short answer being three to six days.

In conclusion, breeding cory catfish can be a rewarding and fascinating endeavor for aquarists. By understanding their unique reproductive behavior and providing them with the right conditions, hobbyists can successfully breed these peaceful and sociable fish.

Through careful selection of compatible mates, appropriate tank setup, and proper care for eggs and fry, the joy of witnessing the entire breeding process from courtship to hatching can be experienced.

Not only does breeding cory catfish contribute to the conservation of this species, but it also offers enthusiasts the opportunity to deepen their understanding of aquatic life and create a thriving ecosystem within their own aquariums.

[Updated 2023] Molly Fish Fry Care Guide – (Main Things to Do)

Trevor Blog, Care Guides, Freshwater Fish (info and tips), Mollies (Care Guides), Uncategorized January 21, 2022June 4, 2023fry, molly, molly fish fry

Molly fish are tropical fish that grow extremely fast and reproduce frequently. Adult Molly fish do not have parental care, often abandon the fry and even try to eat their fry. I will show you the molly fish fry tank maintenance techniques that help protect the molly fish fry.

How do I care for Molly Fry?

Molly adult fish abandon their baby fish shortly after birth and may even eat them. In addition to taking care of the Molly fish, you also have the responsibility to maintain the aquarium, thus ensuring that your fish are protected from diseases and illnesses of any kind. Other factors that should provide good maintenance and clean tank interiors and filters include stable parameters such as temperature accuracy, lighting, and other essential functions.

Molly Fish Fry Care Guide

Basic guidelines for molly fish fry care are provided: The care and treatment of baby fish are quick and easy. Adult fish can eat fish fry from the pond, even if the mother doesn’t. Two steps make hatching a success; separate the parents from the litter (or provide enough hiding places for everyone) and take care to keep your baby animal healthy until it becomes a full-grown fish. Taking care of molly fry tanks can be as easy as cleaning them.

How to Care & Grow Molly Fish Fry

Molly fish does not demonstrate parental care; parents can even eat the fry. Female molly gives birth to babies, called “Molly fry.” They are similar to adults but a tiny, tiny version of adults. When a baby is born, he needs nutritious food.

Is a separate nursery tank for Molly Fry necessary?

The Molly fries will be separated from the female Molly fish shortly after the female give birth in a nursery tank, far from adult fish; they cannot be separated together with the female pregnant Molly fish. A separate tank for breeding (nursery tank) prevents the small fry from being eaten by other fish, increasing the brood’s survival. This information is necessary for the safe storage of Molly fry fish in aquariums.

Filtration

A filtration system is essential in all tanks, including Molly’s. Check that the filter you choose is suitable for the size of the Molly fries; obviously, the devices must be secure for small fry. The best way to check the efficiency of the filtration system is through water testing. When proper aquarium filters filter the water inside the tanks, quality and sanitary standards are balanced.

Adding plants

You can choose between artificial plants or live plants to fill your tank. Also, plants must be added before placing Molly Fry in the tank. A good tip about choosing an aquarium plant is selecting plants with broad leaves, like Java fern or some mosses, which are widely common in specialty stores. This place with plants will be used as a hiding place by the fry. In addition, you can create floating plants, helping babies when there is more natural vegetation close to the surface so they can hide immediately after birth. Plants will also help with feeding small fry and other fish species if is a community tank.

Large tanks

Molly fry should have a good volume in the tank to keep the tank’s balance constant. Female mollies can produce hundreds of fry instantly – their births can reach over 100 fries. The baby Mollies needs tanks to grow, ranging from 10 to 20 gallons.

Temperature of water

Like tropical fish, Mollies should have the warmest temperature in their water tank. Keep the water temperature around 77°F. The water temperature dictates the level of Molly’s metabolism and allows for healthy feeding and growth. Use the ideal aquarium heater to maintain stable water temperatures. A thermometer can also help analyze the proper temperatures in our aquarium.

Lighting

Lighting is a significant component in keeping fry ponds healthy. Appropriate bulbs protect its growth. Tanks require at least 12 hours of rest and 12 hours of light per day.

Prevention from diseases

Keep your fish constantly well fed with quality food, and the aquarium’s water quality is always ideal. Sometimes parasites and pathogenic fungi can be present in water. Babies have no immunity to diseases that can harm them. Various chemicals can help the habitat stay healthy, and there are medications of their own to treat illnesses.

Introduce Molly Fry In The Nursery Tank

Relocating your Mollies fry into a nursery tank is a great strategy to increase the number of fries that reach adulthood. Let your Molly fry in a container floating in the water of the new aquarium for about 15 minutes until the temperatures stabilize. Little by little, mix the water from the aquarium with the water containing the fry; observe to determine if they all have adapted and are swimming well. Use a net, remove the fry, and place them in the nursery tank.

Fry Mollies Food

Molly fry does not require specific dietary supplements, only quality foods. They can eat the food that adult fish eat. Animal-derived foods, such as brine shrimp, worms, blackworm, and bloodworm, can help fry fish to grow faster if they become healthier.

Saving Molly Fry is essential. Tell me the reason?

Keeping Molly’s fish fingerlings in a community tank can be harmful. Molly’s chicks are tiny and quickly become food for larger fish; as they mature, most animals in the tank will chase and attack them. In short, Molly Fry makes an exciting snack for other fish, including her parents. It is necessary to keep the molly fish habitat in ideal conditions at all times; this includes protecting them from all other species in your aquarium.

Does Molly eat her babies?

Yes, Molly, eat your babies. As adult parents, they may end up eating their children. This behavior does not seem unusual for ornamental fish. Mollies usually eat whatever fits in their mouths.

Hidden spots

In this way, Molly’s chicks can be protected by having enough hiding places inside the aquarium. Keeping your baby mollies safe with an artificial hiding place and other aquarium decor items is possible. However, these tactics don’t always work effectively. Be aware that hiding areas are a good idea, but it might not work very well, so take them to a separate tank.

How do I protect Molly Fry in the main tank?

As stated earlier, the only effective method of protecting fry is to keep them in a separate aquarium from their parents and other adult fish.

How long can you keep Molly Fry in a breeding tank?

A breeding tank is a simple method of keeping your fry healthy and safe. Larger female Molly generally release up to 100 fry at one time. Keep your fingerlings separated for 2 to 3 months, or until they are big enough not to be eaten by other fish in the main aquarium.

How are Mollies born?

It takes some time after birth until Molly fry reach the feeding stage. These fish reach sexual maturity from three to six months of age. As long as the adult mollies are kept in good condition, reproduction will occur without problems.

Tell me the best way to put Molly Fry in the main tank?

If Molly is kept in a mature and clean aquarium with excellent water quality, they will become quickly and easily healthier. When the Molly fry is large enough not to be devoured by your tank mates, you can transfer them to the main tank. When fish reach a medium size, other fish no longer confuse them with food. During this time, the molly fry should grow big enough to remain on the main tank without causing harm.

Regular water change

Partial water changes exist to improve water quality for Molly fry. Perform weekly water changes in Molly’s fry pond. Water changes keep contaminants dispersed in the medium at low levels, as it renews the water and prevents contamination; this increases the ability of the fry to grow better and healthier. Please do not keep fish with deficient oxygen levels and keep the water temperature stable, use a aquarium thermometer.

Fry Molly Grown Up to Adult Mollies

About four months after birth, Molly fry grows into adults. Molly fry do not have a specific color, appearing in different colors and formats about their strain. After a more extended period, they acquire their fixed primary colors and forms. These fish will get beautiful colors with a nutritious diet and a suitable habitat.

Molly fry care guide

Generally speaking, you should know these three key components when making molly fry care recommendations.

Add plants to your tank

You have the option of using artificial materials and even living vegetation. Put your plants in the aquarium before introducing the fry. These plants provide hiding places for the fry in their early ages and behave similarly to those in their breeding boxes. You can always use broad-leafed plants similar to Java ferns or moss. This effect can also be created by using floating plants, especially with long roots; spawning mops also help. Always help newborns to hide around them immediately after their first birth, this will help you to save molly fry.

Isolate the female Molly Fish

By separating the pregnant molly from the main tank, you keep her out of worry that other fish will eat her fry and prevent pregnancy from stressful for female Mollies. Keeping a female about to calve in a community aquarium is not the best method of maintaining baby Molly babies healthy, especially when you have a lot of adult fish in your aquarium. In theory, the more plants and places forming hiding places, the more fry will survive. This may seem like a simple question, but it is not always for beginners. This option of removing the female makes the molly fries easier to keep when separated.

How should we feed them?

It is recommended that fry feeds with small amounts several times a day. Remember that Molly fish fry is small animals and can only swallow food that fits their tiny boa. Feed the fry regularly, without leaving food leftovers in the aquarium. Quality food will bring quality animals. Keep a strict diet so you don’t leave your fish obese or leftover food that will degrade the water quality in the fry tank. It’s safe and convenient to store your fry in an adult-like tank. You can also offer the same food that adult fish eat; crushing before submitting crush makes the pieces small enough to fit in the fry’s mouth.

Tank and filter system setup

Breeding tanks will require between 10-20 gallons of water to raise the fry. The tank needs an efficient filtration system. Ensure your filters are free of dirt and not sucking up the fry. The filter can also be covered with foam that protects it from sucking fish and traps food residue.

Conclusion

Is breeding mollies a good hobby for any fish keeper. Molly fry is not very difficult to raise. Still, it is necessary to take measures for their preservation and well-being and maintain the excellent condition of the aquarium and excellent water quality. Unlike adult Molly fish, which are more robust, fry is less tolerant of an unstable and toxic environment. Before attempting to grow Mollys, you should be familiar with keeping these fish. Always try to feed them nutritious and correct food, keeping the aquarium in perfect condition for your fish.

[Detailed Answer] How Many Cherry Shrimp Per Gallon?

Trevor Care Guides, Crabs, Shrimp, Snails (Care Guides), Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp, Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp (info and tips), Shrimp (guides), Uncategorized January 5, 2022November 27, 2023cherry shrimp, shrimp

Cherry Shrimps can be stored in small volumes of water. Some species live very well inside nano tanks of even 1 gallon. The Cherry Shrimp is an excellent aquarium companion, especially in small tanks. These shrimp mainly eat algae, but they should also follow a diet with aquarium shrimp feed that will sustain them regularly. They should be fed high-quality food based on their regular consumption.

Cherry Shrimp Facts & Overview

Red Cherry Shrimp is a freshwater dwarf shrimp originating in the Taiwan region. These freshwater shrimp are peaceful and recognized for their ability to eat algae. Suitable for beginners or skilled aquarists, these shrimp are a great addition to any aquarium. The shrimp can be kept in tanks that need little maintenance and are small in size. In nature, they occur in a few colors, but they usually come in red in the aquarium trade. Its red colored bark has been improved through generations of selective breeding and is sorted by hue and color.

Can cherry shrimp be used in aquariums?

This definitive source guide for Cherry Shrimp should give helpful information. It is a fantastic shrimp that makes a beautiful addition to freshwater aquariums. These soft creatures make it suitable for beginners who prefer to plunge into fishkeeping.

Behavior

They are animals known for their peaceful and passive acts in tropical tanks. They graze all over the aquarium, plants, moss, substrates, and stuff. They can be highly active during the day and remain busy at night.

How many cherry shrimp per gallon?

Red Cherry Shrimps are fascinating, colorful, and robust. The length of the adult female is approximately one inch, slightly longer than the size of males. Even inexperienced aquarists are very good at rearing and breeding shrimp because these invertebrates are not very demanding maintenance.

How many shrimp can you put in a 10-gallon tank and why?

For a shrimp tank, you can house around 50 shrimp in a 10-gallon tank. However, the fewer animals they have, the better the quality of the environment and the availability of food. Let’s look at the possible options for your aquarium situation.

Planted vs. non-planted shrimp tanks

Whenever I mention a planted tank, I think of a beautiful aquatic world with fallen plants, where shrimp and fish play only a minor role in the underwater pool. Shrimp are great to be kept in planted aquariums; the plants provide shelter and food for the shrimp, which benefit greatly. In professionally planted aquariums, the number of shrimp individuals must be under control to not overpopulate the display; in this case, try to maintain an average of 8 animals per gallon.

A breeding tank

Depending on whether shrimp are to be collected in the aquarium, the number of shrimp can exceed 200 per year. The first average size for your shrimp colony is 10-15 specimens per gallon tank. Make sure there is at least one female and not too many males. Make sure they have enough biofilm to graze on them.

Appearance

Females are typically 1.5 inches long, but males are less than 1.5 inches in height. They need to retain color in the body. Cherry Shrimps are valued for their color and hue. The degree of quality ranges from more delicate red tones to redder tones, including brown dots. The male remains the same all his life, but when the female matures, she will develop a saddle near the stomach that will stay visible on the animal’s back.

**Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi)**

The most common beginner aquarium shrimp, cherry shrimp, is red and can handle virtually any water condition. The Cherry Shrimp represents the mutation or variation in the wild dwarf shrimp species of Neocaridina denticulata sinensis. The deep red and green colors of cherry shrimp are unattainable, and, like most fish, their color has evolved and improved during selective breeding.

How many shrimp can you put in your aquarium?

Freshwater shrimp are essentially some of the cutest animals used as a centerpiece in an aquarium. In addition, shrimp are colorful algae predators that can eat biofilms and other visually unwanted stuff.

About Cherry Shrimp

The females of these shrimp are darker than the males. There are numerous qualities in cherry shrimp. You will never notice the differences between the two types of growing shrimp. The lower part of the older female has a darker stripe.

Habitat and tank conditions

These shrimp originate from Taiwan and are present in streams and lakes in dense vegetation and flat substrates. When your shrimp feels safe and comfortable, you can see bright colors. They are animals that generally do not require heating. If you want water temperature stability, you should use a heating appliance; this will not make it necessary unless a heated room is needed to store the tanks.

What size tank do cherry shrimp need?

It pays to have a little extra volume in a tank that will be specialized in keeping a lot of shrimp. In any 1 gallon pot, you will keep eight shrimp. Note – Cherry Shrimps grow very fast. You can improve your tanks as they grow and multiply, or start with more giant tanks and continue to feed the young shrimp.

Cherry Shrimp Tank Mates

Many aquarium fish can quickly eat this small shrimp. Betta fish is one of the perfect companions for shrimp. A large planted pond can also help your baby shrimp establish a healthy nest to thrive on. A tank has to be ideally designed for the maintenance of shrimp. Java moss does excellently when maintained with these invertebrates. Provide a good range of hiding places for the shrimp, such as caves and holes made with plants, driftwood, and rocks.

Tank Mates

Cherry shrimp has no tools to protect itself other than hiding. With a relatively low defense, the shrimp will multiply and become food for other aquarium inhabitants. Ensure you have several areas to hide in, such as caves and plants. Do not keep large, predatory fish with shrimp.

Keep Cherry Shrimp Together

The only safe method to keep cherry shrimp in aquariums is with many species. To form a fantastic group, you need to maintain about 20 individuals. With a more significant number of shrimp and a natural and well-maintained aquarium, the shrimp will be beautiful and reproduce healthily. For a good gender ratio, they’re excellent. In addition to shrimp, snails are also welcome.

Tank conditions

Keep the shrimp tank water parameters within ideal. Typically, low-quality shrimp can handle lower water quality. The pH should remain between 6.5 and 7.5 with an ambient temperature of about 72 degrees F. To be honest; you shouldn’t put them in uncycled tanks as these animals are sensitive to nitrite.

Tell me the size of the aquarium?

Cherry shrimp fits in the smallest aquarium under five gallons. In most cases, the sizes chosen for the shrimp tank are subject to space availability. In general, the ratio is about eight prawns per gallon. Do not build colonies without having a tank of at least 10 gallons.

Which Substrate to Use for Red Cherry Shrimp?

Shrimp naturally want to blend in and contrast with the environment and prevent predators from seeing them in their vicinity. You can also use a darker substrate to bring out the colors of the shrimp, accentuating the deeper color when hiding. Shrimps can be opaque, trying to hide from the sunlight. Choose a substrate that contains small pebbles as they are found in nature.

Properly cycling an aquarium shrimp tank

Before using Cherry Shrimps in aquariums, ensure that the tanks are properly cycled. I recommend using natural methods for cycling as they are highly effective. The best way to create an effective breeding site is to keep shrimp in well-maintained tanks. You need some water test kits. You also don’t want to add ammonia to the tanks before adding the shrimp. A weekly water change can also help keep the shrimp properly.

Cycling Your Shrimp Tank

Shrimp Cherry does not tolerate nitrate, be aware of the concentration of this pollutant. When nitrite concentrations rise in your tank, it is often the result of faulty equipment sizing and erratic maintenance. You can use a nitrate test kit and a complete freshwater test kit. A high concentration of toxic ammonia in the water quickly causes the death of all animals in the system. If you have a lot of plants in the pond, this helps to keep nitrate and nitrate toxicity levels low. Use your test kit to monitor the ammonia content and test your shrimp water. Bring enough fresh plants to the pond and do periodic water changes and maintenance.

How often to change the water?

A part of the water in the shrimp aquarium can be renewed weekly to enjoy healthier environments. I suggest that you use water conditioners to remove chlorine and heavy metals from the water supply network when making the water change.

Plants and hiding spots for your shrimp tank

Your aquarium should be identical to the cherry shrimp environment in this scenario. They originally arrived from Taiwan, living among water bodies. Cherry Shrimp prefers a densely planted, sandy substrate environment. You can start by installing them in tanks using driftwood and natural rock. You can also use mosses and an artificial cave. In addition to being able and efficient in eating plant material, they hardly attack plants when well fed. The moss serves two purposes; in addition to supplementing food, you will find shrimp inside this moss, using it as an escape zone. If the shrimp does not feel danger, its color will increase.

Tell me the optimal water condition?

Despite being robust, the cherry shrimp prefers to live in excellent quality water. You also don’t have to worry about the tanks filling with lesser quality shrimp. These animals have great adaptability in harmful conditions.

Cherry shrimp water conditions

Cherry shrimp will survive from 57 to 86 F, although low and high levels can negatively impact growth or reproduction rates. Cherry shrimp prefers slightly acidic water. Whenever ammonia in wastewater is tested, it must be at zero. Typically, less than 20 parts of nitrite per million pose no danger to shrimp in mature, well-maintained aquariums. In peak pollutants, the water must be changed every two days. Planting your aquarium with lots of vegetation and moss is a great way to reduce nitrogen and nutrient levels.

Temperature requirements

Store in water temperatures as low as 57 and as high as 86 degrees F. When the temperature increases, it makes the shrimp grow faster. The colony may reproduce quickly, and its tanks end up overcrowded. In any case, you may need a giant aquarium. Shrimps sit still if conditions are much below 60 degrees F. When the temperature drops below 57 F, it will not affect larvae development, but your shrimp can be exposed to fungus and disease.

Optimal pH levels

Cherry shrimp grow in water with a pH between 6.5 and 8. Once adequately balanced and adjusted to your system, the shrimp will have healthier and more vibrant eggs when they hatch. When the quality of tap water exceeds the recommended pH, it can bring out the color of the shrimp.

Is it possible to have too many shrimp?

If you look at your aquarium and only see shrimp of different sizes everywhere, you have more shrimp than you should. Use common sense to develop this perception about overpopulation. Many individuals produce many bioloads; overcrowded aquariums must be watched closely and have a strict maintenance schedule.

Feeding Cherry Shrimp

Cherry Shrimps repeatedly eat as part of the aquarium’s forage, consuming the algae and biofilms found inside the aquarium and scouring for food waste. Cherry Shrimps are omnivorous and eat different types of foods and vegetables. Vegetables like bleached zucchini are an excellent snack for shrimp and valuable nutrients. Shrimp feed easily on commercial feeds such as pellets and pellets, which must be used, to provide beneficial nutrients to keep it in optimum quality. Shrimp will eat everything they find in nature. As an omnivore, they consume foods and common plants such as algae or plankton. As always in the hobby, ensuring that your foods contain quality granules is advisable. You will need to whiten the vegetables before offering them for dinner.

Breeding

Cherry shrimp are one of the most prolific species and are likely to cross quickly between ornamental dwarf shrimp. Under good management, this species can become a great breeder based on the care provided by its guardian. Cherry shrimp reach sexual maturity from 2 to 6 months and can reproduce. Once these shrimp mate, this becomes obvious because looking at their heads, it’s clear that you’ll see a lot of eggs under their tail—the female who carries the eggs. You can also see that she holds her tail in an aggressive shake to keep the egg circling, allowing oxygen to pass through. The new egg should hatch in 2-3 weeks.

Breeding Cherry Shrimp

Heavy covers of vegetation, logs, or rock cracks will ensure the safe and effective breeding of the shrimp. Please make sure the aquarium water is in perfect condition to keep the animals well; this will help keep them healthy for a long time. By adding lime flakes to filters or other calcium-rich materials to the surface, you can help to harden the water even further. Baby Cherry Shrimp is a miniature version of the adult Cherry Shrimp.

Carefully

This freshwater shrimp care demands are highly undemanding to this animal; however, they have a significant intolerance to copper, where contact can be fatal. The more significant an aquarium, the more efficient its stability. You mustn’t neglect them when they have high levels of ammonia. If water changes and periodic maintenance occur, tank conditions will remain stable, and water parameters will be long-lasting: larger tanks are easier to maintain.

Releasing pets in the wild

We all know you have to keep these animals in our homes forever! You might think the shrimp aren’t happy in your aquarium somehow, and consider releasing them in some river or lake. Still, any foreign species that enter a particular ecosystem alters its balance and harms native wildlife. Invasive species sometimes carry unknown diseases, which can cause catastrophic effects.

A community aquarium

The community shrimp aquarium should be designed primarily to protect freshwater shrimp. Small fish such as Neon Tetras and Harlequin Rasbora will complement and enhance any shrimp tank. The shrimp need to have a well-lit aquarium filled with vegetation with small spaces to protect the shrimp colony. The recommended amount of shrimp to put in an aquarium will vary depending on the type or percentage of shrimp and fish species you want to put in the aquarium. Pour a good selection of beautiful shrimp.

A breeding aquarium

If you get a shrimp tank that has a sufficient volume of at least 18 gallons, you can store about 100 shrimp inside that tank. Aquariums made entirely for shrimp will also be ideal shrimp breeding sites. The best starting number in this shrimp colony is 10 to 30 shrimp. There should be a few females per tank in a breeding aquarium plus a small group of males. When the aquarium is so giant, the number is minimal, and the shrimp won’t just see themselves during the breeding season. Keep your aquarium with your favorite shrimp.

Overly Planted vs. Scarcely Planted Shrimp Aquarium

Keeping these freshwater shrimp in an aquarium is more accessible when the aquarium contains dozens of beautiful plants and dozens of ornaments such as rocks and wood to form hiding places. How many shrimp per gallon is relative to the type of setup and what you are looking for with your shrimp colony. Nano tanks should have a little less variety of individuals. In tanks smaller than 2 gallons, if there are more than 20 individuals, you will ruin the beauty of the aquarium by making it look overcrowded. When the aquarium is relatively less crowded with shrimp, it allows a lot of free space to move, and they can reproduce quickly.

How Big a Red Eared Sliders Can Get [Complete Care Guide]

Trevor Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Care Guides, Tropical Freshwater (guides), Uncategorized December 31, 2021May 26, 2022care guide, red eared sliders, sliders

Red Eared Slider Secrets — **Although most red-eared sliders can live up to 45-60 years, most WILL NOT survive 2 years. CLICK HERE to learn more.**

The Red Eared Slider (also know as Red Eared Turtle and Red Eared Terrapin) is a medium to large-sized freshwater turtle; females are generally larger than male red eared sliders, reaching around 12 inches in length. The Red Eared Slider turtle will have several different characteristics, including size, in terms of age and size. The Red Eared Sliders growth rate is correlated to these factors and environmental factors.

Summary

Red Eared Sliders are often found in pet trade and are inexpensive animals to obtain. If given proper attention, a turtle can survive in captivity for over 30+ years. These turtles also provide a beautiful yellow, dark green, and red combination. The growing popularity of these animals as pets puts pressure on the ecosystem around the world. Before purchase, make sure the animal comes from reliable farms. After purchasing them from reputable sources, check all local regulations to ensure you follow them so that this turtle is not released without your knowledge for your safety.

Some notes

This Red-Eared Slider is a native species, a hardy turtle and a famous turtle for beginners as it is adorable and easy to keep. Some new keepers may have difficulty feeding their pets properly. The Red Eared Sliders has been described as a friendlier and cheaper animal that will give your family lasting bonds.

Red-eared slider

The Red-Eared sliders turtles (Trachemys scripta elegans) are subspecies that are similar to pond sliders. Red-eared Sliders are the turtles most often kept by humans and are found in other countries and are internationally popular as pets. These are native turtles to the United States and Mexico. It is known that there is a common habit of releasing this animal from its domestic environment to nature; because of this, it has become highly invasive in different parts of the world. The animal was included among the species listed on the Global Invasive Species Database most destructive list.

Red-Eared Slider: Care, Diet, Habitat, Tank, & Facts

When provided with everything the animal needs, Red Eared Slider is considered an excellent pet. Their medium size with unique colors and beautiful lines make them an easy and attractive option. However, anyone thinking about keeping Red Eared Sliders should learn that it requires attention and is highly recommended for beginners. The animal should last for generations and grow in size quickly.

How fast do Red Eared Sliders grow?

The Red Eared Slider grows to about twelve inches. It can take about eight years for red-eared sliders to reach their entire length. After their juvenile stage, they grow approximately one inch annually. Males are generally smaller than females. Your turtle’s estimated growth rate depends on many factors, such as population, age, and gender factors, that affect your turtle.

How big are Red-Eared Sliders in Captivity?

This Red Eared Slider turtle is an aquatic animal with a good average size to be kept in captivity. Explore your development and health through this guide and the helpful tips listed below.

About Red-Eared Sliders

Red Eared Slider (Trachemys scripta elegans) are subspecies of the common – Pond Slider (Trachemys scripta), usually pale green. Red Eared Sliders feature a beautiful yellow coloration over their green shells and throughout their dark olive head with two red markings resembling yellowish ears and bands. It is a good turtle for beginners as it grows quickly and easily compared to other turtle species. The pet industry has long marketed these turtles.

A Red-Eared Slider turtles are not just a Christmas gift

Red-Eared Sliders are available in stores and an invader in most countries but not Antarctica. Breeding populations have been identified in more than one hundred countries outside North America, Europe, Asia, Australia, the Middle East, and Central and South America. Their existence elsewhere causes severe problems in wildlife habitats because they can often outperform and compete with native turtle species in search of resources. The importance of proper care must remain constant when you are working to obtain optimum maintenance quality for the Red-Eared Slider.

Are Red-Eared Sliders Turtles good pets?

Red-Eared Sliders make great pets if you provide everything they need to live correctly. They require more space than other aquatic animals; just another turtle or alligator would make a turtle’s excellent companion. However, when you are still keeping these animals, even with enough space and time, it is good to start with a few animals.

How the Age Influences the Growth Rate of a Red Eared Slider

Generally, most Red Eared Sliders got a growth rate of 1 to 2 inches within the first months of life. Most adults can range in size from 7 to 12 inches. The wild Red Eared sliders can achieve a smaller size when reach sexual maturity compared to the captive Red Eared Slider turtles.

How do I take care of Red-Eared Slider Turtles?

Red Eared Slider turtles require a lot of space to live longer in their lives. For an owner who is new to turtles, you should obtain a complete analysis of the water available in your tap through your aquarium tests and adjust the parameters if necessary. This turtle is suitable for both novices and individuals with more experience in handling and rearing. Your environment must be equipped with heat lamps, lighting, correct filtration, clean water, and ideal food to ensure Red Eared Slider turtles proper care.

How long does Red-Eared Sliders live?

Red Eared Slider can live for decades. The lifespan of the red slider in nature can last about 20 years. Pet turtles generally have a longer lifespan compared to wild turtle populations. Peel diseases and skin bruises commonly occur due to the lack of heat in their surroundings. Without regular treatment and illumination, these turtles are prone to stinking, greasy sores that develop on their flesh. As a result, the skin becomes defective without adequate lighting, elasticity can be compromised, and soft tissue can become damaged or stiff.

Semi-Aquatic or Aquatic Turtles

Slider is a semi-aquatic turtle that lives in freshwater aquatic ecosystems and can also occur in brackish environments. They spend most of the day hunting for food in lakes or relaxing on rocks and logs. These species roam in still water environments, where water is held back and flows slowly. Most live in ponds, rivers, reservoirs, or swamps.

Tank size, heating, lighting and setup

During dry periods, in the natural habitat, a turtle can walk several kilometers to access a large amount of water. Most adults are kept in tanks over 55 gallons. Each slider may require up to 20 additional gallons. When the turtle tanks needs cleaning in its environment, check if the UVB light needs to be changed. Substrates are unnecessary, but you can still use them and make aquariums look prettier. If you want substrates, pebble is an easy choice. Aquatic vegetation has become famous for this type of aquarium, even though the turtle can eat them.

Tell me the best way to feed a Red-Eared Slider?

Red-Eared are omnivores hardy turtles that can suit many eating styles/diet options in particular. These small turtles usually consume fish, invertebrates, aquatic plants, and tadpoles. Sliders often have bony nozzles that help them turn over tree roots for food. Try to feed the turtles the same amount of food each day. Offer green vegetables to keep them healthy. Your pets may need supplements like calcium for a healthy diet.

How big do Red Eared Sliders get in Captivity?

In captivity, the red-eared sliders often grow larger than a wild animal. A pet turtle will have everything needed and can live a longer life while wild turtle species remain in danger. Pet turtles live in controlled environments that regulate and stabilize water temperatures. Wild turtles hibernate on their own and lose vitality, energy and essential nutrients during hibernation. Instead, wild turtles face winter conditions in a temperature-controlled environment.

The Growth Rate of Wild Red Eared Sliders

This species is similar to other pet turtles. Other factors significantly affect growth, especially food and temperature. Wild turtles eat less compared to pet turtles. Also, wild turtles should hunt whenever they need to eat. Young turtles should be given as good a daily diet as their parents. Otherwise, this can cause growth problems. They can always warm up in their basking place because the sun can provide better UV-B radiation than most ultraviolet lamp lenses. Turtles in winter are usually inactive for between three and five months.

How Basking Influences the Growth Rate of a Red Eared Slider

Ultraviolet light works in a surprising way to increase your ability to produce nutrient-rich vitamin D 3 to produce calcium and provide for proper health. They often cannot get adequate calcium from their food; this causes poor bone formation, metabolic problems and carapace rot. Provide the necessary lighting for your turtle to be always active and healthy.

Appearance

Red sliders feature yellow, leafy green, and red stripes behind the ear. Its paws and tail are light green, and tufts of yellow lines encircle its body. Some turtles are pastel shades, although people rarely see this coloring outdoors when observed. The sliders have a beautiful and showy dome-shaped shell with a slightly flat bottom that is light when juvenile and eventually darker. Baby Red Eared Sliders are yellowish and have only another dark-banded black spot on their belly.

Size

Once born, baby Red Eared Sliders are around 23 to 35 mm in size. A female’s sexual maturity comes when they reach approximately six inches. Males have shorter tails and longer nails. Adult turtles differ in size depending on age. Males and females appear to be very different in terms of body size.

Questions

The useful life of the Red-Eared Slider can range between 15 and 30 years. They are usually found in nature for a shorter time. This massive differentiation occurs because, in nature, several predators can cause serious illnesses or destruction to the turtle, leading to a reduction in its lifespan. Besides taking care of your turtle’s health, you have no other option; wait until your turtle grows up.

Red Eared Slider Diet

The Red-Eared Slider is omnivorous and feeds on vegetables, fruits and meat. Animal protein-based food has the potential to increase turtle growth. Give them a wide variety of products and nutrients so you can provide a long shelf life to other animals. A young turtle can feed on many vegetables, but this food preference may not always exist in its growth. Turtles are omnivorous animals, and healthy baby turtles typically tolerate virtually any type of food.

How big are adult red-eared sliders?

Red Eared Sliders can be classified as adults aged 2-5 years. An animal can grow up to almost six years before reaching maturity, typical of an adult tortoise. To reach maturity is generally shorter in females, reaching the reproducible age around two years.

Conclusion

The Red-Eared Slider is a cute pet that can grow up to 12 inches (30 cm). The average growth rate is expected to be 1 inch per year. In captivity, these animals are highly dependent on the quality of the environment and food provided by the turtle owner. It must have the correct filter set, ideal UV lighting system, and power supply. This helps ensure your slider receives maximum growth in terms of health with optimal maintenance.

Mystery Snail Care Guide: Diet, Lifespan, Breeding, Food & More

Trevor Blog, Care Guides, Crabs, Shrimp, Snails (Care Guides), Info and Tips, Snails (guides) December 26, 2021April 4, 2022aquarium snails, mystery snails

Mystery snails (also known as Apple Snails) have become among the most famous pieces of a freshwater tank. Slow-moving peace-loving herbivores snails let you relax while they finish your chores for you. Any community tank of any type is a good home when dealing with this gastropod. In this article, we will talk about how to take care of these fun tiny snails. We’ll also review reproduction, appearance, compatibility with other species, and more.

Detailed Mystery Snail care Guide: Care, Diet, and Use of Mystery Snail

Mysterious snails of the genus Pomaceae (commonly called Apple snails) are peaceful, herbivorous, slow-moving freshwater snails. They clean up leftover food and feed on algae from aquarium decorations, gravel, grass, and plants. Unfortunately, most Apple Snail species are pest species that a person should avoid; but as long as they are kept in an aquarium with the correct tank mates, nothing terrible can happen. Now let’s talk about Mystery Snail care. Mystery Snails, or Apple Snails, is one of the most popular freshwater snails in the aquarium trade. These snails are unusual in appearance, with their large, colorful shells, large shiny bodies, and swaying tentacles. Snails are often available in many different colors. This makes them highly ornamental, especially for being part of the cleaning crew and eating food residues.

What do Mystery Snails Eat

Apple snails are freshwater aquarium snails generally available at pet shops. The Mystery Snail is usually brownish or olive-hued, but they may have different shell pains. Its head and body are light shades ranging from pink to grey. Orange accents also appear at the tip of the mouth; this color is also visible in its tentacles and siphon. The body color can also come in yellow, gold, brown-green, purple, and white. There may be orange dots appearing around the eyes. A mysterious snail also has an operculum that serves as a trapdoor to close.

Why are mystery snails called mystery snails?

Some people said that some of these snails could destroy the plants well, whereas some could clean the algae making the aquarists confused. Thus it was called just mystery snails. But there’s no reason to believe how many snails species they were. It’s an unknown fact. Some snails may destroy tanks, while some may clear algae away from the surface.

Size

Generally speaking, Mystery snail (Pomacea) size is about 4 inches in diameter. If the snail is not kept under adequate care, it could stop growing; it signals poor care. Some perfectly healthy snails will grow large, achieving up to 5 inches in diameter.

Handy tips on how to take care of mystery snails

Mystery snails like to eat green vegetables such as spinach or cucumbers. Some species, such as the golden mystery snail, also love consuming fish food like shrimp pellet. As far as the aquarium setting is concerned, it is comfortable in alkaline water.

Overview

Mystery snails are highly popular for their beautiful colors as well as their practical advantages. They help to clean out algae from glass, plants, and decorative items. They eat a few types of algae, and they help to keep your substrate clean. They breathe through their gills and a tube reaching from the front end of their bodies. They extended this tube above water and then moved to take air into there. These are freshwater snails, and their elastic properties make them appropriate for almost any freshwater aquarium. They are prevalent for planted and community tanks, and many people use them in large aquariums for waste management and algae control, where it rarely eats live plants, but love some blanched vegetables as a snack.

Summary of species

Mystery snail is a plant matter eater snail native to South America. The largest concentration is found in Peru, Paraguay, Brazil, and Bolivia. In the wild, mystery snails can be found searching for plant matter in various bodies of water like streams, swamps, or ponds being the most common. This species of snail can often become confused with some other species. Many people don’t know about this type of snails, which are considered invasive species in some parts of the world—possibly the result of human-aided distribution and their natural adaptability. In the home aquarium they don’t need a large tank size and are very good eater, eating all kinds of feeds and avoiding the live plants in the tank.

Color and appearance

Mysterious snails are available in several colors: golden brown, magenta, black and blue. Newborn snails are as tiny as rice grains. They grow slowly with age. Snails have gills and lungs that allow them to capture and use oxygen when they need it. When the oxygen in the water is low, the snail puts its siphon out of the water and begins to move them rapidly back and forth, sucking in air. Whenever threatened or disturbed, this snail retreats into its shell and closes its operculum. This seal offers ample protection against predators, completely sealing the hard shell.

Taxonomy problems of mystery snails

Pomacea bridgesii (Reeve, 1856) and Pomacea diffusa (Blume, 1957) were considered the same species for very long. According to DNA analysis, today, scientists view them as separate species. Pomaceae bridgesii is a scarce species that is known to inhabit small ranges. Pomacea diffusa is much more common in the Amazon River System. The habit nearly every river. Therefore Pomace diffusa is more commonly found in aquarium shops. In terms of appearance, the most significant difference is the size.

Are our Mystery Snails suitable for aquariums?

Mystery snails are easy to keep because it doesn’t make it very complicated to stay alive. They have few specific needs and don’t require any special feeding, a Mystery Snail tank is very easy to keep. One of their best features is that you can quickly help clean up parts of plants and algae on the glass tank. Automatic cleaning is quicker and less costly. This reason has helped them become popular freshwater snails and is now used in aquariums worldwide today.

Typical freshwater snail appearance and behavior

Snails have a broad but muscular foot that uses their muscles. It can spin and retract back into its shells. These snails are not hermaphrodites, and both males and females are separated. They reproduce quickly in freshwater, laying their eggs on the outside of the pond, near the waterline. Snails are most active after sunset and can stay still during this period. Dead snails are suspended in their shells when moved and give off unpleasant odors. To know if a snail is alive, lightly touch the operculum if it retracts, then that snail is live.

Keeping Mystery Snails

Apple snail, by nature, are non-hostile and calm. They like an active and relaxing environment, good water quality and serene tankmates. A mystery snail can be very busy when the aquarium light is turned on and constantly travels around the aquarium on the hunt for food, exciting places to discover, or a quiet place to take a break from. More giant shells are not necessarily healthier snails. A mystery snail needs an large tank size to sustain its needs. On their own, they thrive in an established aquarium like one of the smaller aquariums and larger tanks.

Respiration of mystery snail

Both juveniles and adults use air and water breathing. Therefore, they can swim in waters that contain low levels of dissolved oxygen and tolerate some pollution. It extends its siphon above the water and inhales air moving back and forth. The siphon is used to capture air, while the gill is used to facilitate water exchanges. Some aquarists confuse the reproductive organs with the siphon. The siphon can be seen on the side of the snail’s head, protruding outward. Your sex organs are much more inside that body, and you have to wait for it to move.

Habitat and tank conditions

Some species especially become a problem throughout the world. Natively live on rivers, waters, and ponds, where they feed on dead plants or decomposing vegetation. They often have the opportunity to graze in a bottomless pit on the river bedrock. They will only have to watch out for fish or any creatures that damage this tough shell. This can be anywhere, a big fish or other big bird in a waterhole. They will eat alive plants but only when another food source doesn’t exist. The species is native to Paraguay, Brazil, and Bolivia, but their population has since begun spreading primarily as invasive.

Food & Diet

Mystery snails spend their energy slowly looking for sources of algae and vegetation. Algae wafers and sinking pellets or flakes can also aid their nutrition supplementing. It’s vital that we have some algae or decaying organic matter on our plants and tank that your snails could feed on. Here are some food choices for your snails: algae chips, pellets, and veggie pellets. You really shouldn’t rely on natural algae. Therefore it can affect the quality of your water and life in an aquarium. Feeding them some quality foods is a great choice as well.

Mystery Snail Diet

Mystery snails are naturally optimistic scavengers and not fussy over anything they eat. They will eat almost everything: dead fish, dead shrimp, dead or rotting plant matter, algae, and even more. These snails eat algae on aquarium glass and stones. This gives them the best food additions to algae. Add supplements such as flakes or feeding tablets to the diet, and it helps keep them healthy, enriching the diet. No matter what you feed them, they need enough calcium in the diet and their water.

Feeding

Mystery snails are very active eaters in the aquarium, making them perfect for cleaning out aquariums of waste. They’re entirely safe to keep with live plants as long as there’s enough food for these snails. It makes good sense to give them fish food to deter them from eating live plants. Avoid all foods, pills, or plant fertilizers that contain copper. Copper could have a toxic effect on some invertebrates. Always check out every ingredient listing in the food aquarium to ensure it is copper-free; always check the ingredients list for anything entering your aquarium.

Diet and Plants

They feed on the dead and rotting plant in the aquarium. They can also graze off algae from surfaces like rocks or sand. Therefore, they prefer a medium to high plant cover. Plants will naturally shed with growth giving their snails perfect food on top of naturally growing algae. Supplements can also help maintain good health because they provide all of the nutrients they need. Remember not to overfeed as it could harm water quality and result in health troubles for your inhabitants. It is also known that herbivores love vegetables as long as they are washed and soft-blanched.

Snails and calcium

Some aquarists used cuttlefish bone in their water. Place it into a tank, and you might find it can sink a while later. Cuttlebone released calcium, and snails began to chew. Vegetables offered as feeding (like blanched spinach or cauliflower) must contain enough calcium. Also, you can easily break down some shells; to improve hardness, you can also use crushed coral. It would be best if you offered a diet high in calcium to the snail.

How much should I feed a mystery snail?

Mystery snails are snails that require a large number of nutrients. Feed it a few times daily. If they still have leftovers after 2 hours, you could feed them less food next time. Snails also have an inefficient digestive tract surrounded by tens of thousands of microbes and dozens of bacteria. Microorganisms stick to their feces, which get stuck with their slime, spreading to the water’s surface. This partially digested food is highly excellent for shrimp. It is the most prominent reason snails can benefit shrimp tanks.

Reproduction

All the organs of these animals are hidden inside shells, making it difficult to recognize the differences between the sexes. The easiest way to know the exact match, if they are together, is to catch a couple during copulation. If you gently turn the mystery snail upside down, it will eventually emerge from its shell to try to right itself. When the animal stretches its body, look inside the shell opening. Rotating the shell a little, keeping the animal’s right side a little higher than the left, usually helps. Pay attention to the upper region of the animal’s right side, inside the mantle cavity. In males, the sheath of the penis can be seen, an elongated and clear muscular structure, with one end inserted close to the edge of the shell. In females, this region is empty; you can only see the cavity with the gills.

Mystery Snail Breeding

In the breeding process the female deposits masses of eggs above the water’s surface and leaves them in a cocoon; in nature, this strategy ensures that your eggs are protected from attacks by animals or fish. Each clutch of eggs can contain between 50 and 200 eggs, depending on the size of the females. Development is direct, and juveniles hatch at a shell length of 2.4 mm. Newly implanted embryos are similar or smaller copies like adults. Newly hatched baby snails fall to the bottom of the pond, so the new life begins, and they eat the same food as their parents. Incubation can be extended over a week, depending on the temperature.

Mystery Snail Mating

There must be male and female snails available for reproduction to occur. The existence of visible sexual dimorphism was not observed. Copulation usually lasts 1 to 2 hours, and copulation usually continues after brief intervals, where the female crawls to feed while the male retracts into his shell. The pair can even be taken out of the water without interrupting copulation, thus showing that the male remains fully attached to the female throughout the mating period. Females can store sperm for months and lay eggs in the surface of the water, them turning to baby snails.

The behavior of mystery snail

Mysterious snails get stressed when attacked by aggressive fish, so they hide in their shell. During an escape, when one of them escapes out of the aquarium, you will see that they are shriveled in the shell and appear to be dead. Please don’t throw it away; put it back in your tanks, and the snail will probably come back.

Behavior and Tankmates

Pomacea sp. is a peaceful species. They work well as tank mates for other fish and invertebrates in community tanks. The tentacles of a mysterious snail are extremely sensitive and look a lot like worms, so they are an ideal target for aggressive and gluttonous fish such as goldfish and cichlids. It would be best to keep all snails in hard water, as they will need them for life. They also spend a lot of time at the bottom of the tank. Betta fish can be a very nice tank mate for Mystery Snail.

Behavior & Temperament

The behavior and temperament of mystery snails are what you’d expect. They want freedom for themselves. They can’t imagine what happens outside. Mystery snails do not depart from their primary role of searching for food. They’re also relatively fast and can get around the aquarium incredibly quickly. It will be anything that stops them!

Mystery Snail and Tank Mates

Mysterious snails must be the only snail species in the aquarium. These snails do not cause stress to any other inhabitant of the aquarium. These species should not be kept with large, greedy, or aggressive fish. Keep the mysterious snail away from all kinds of crayfish (even the Mexican dwarf crayfish) and even some types of predatory shrimp-like Macrobrachium. It would be best to consider that some fish don’t feed on snails and only eat pieces of tissue, such as eyes or tentacles. Be sure to detect this type of damage.

Common health issues

The disease of invertebrates has little significance. As long as habitats are sufficient and the food supply is good, they are tolerant of disorder.

Disease

There have been no commercial medicines for sick mollusks. Everything you can do is clean water without ammonia, nitrates, or chlorides. Try to avoid buying snails with damaged or split shells because it weakens your immune system and causes death. If your snail is still active but doesn’t smell foul, then it is alive too. As long as you keep the aquarium clean and the water parameters stable, there will be no problems maintaining the animal. A sick snail might also float up a large tank for extended lengthening than usual when irritated or uneasy mystery snails excrete a mucous-like slime to protect vulnerable bodies from infection.

Tank Setup

A minimum capacity to keep this animal is a 10 gallons tank. A tank of 10 gallons gives your snail a good supply of stable water conditions and adequate water. HOB filters, canister filters, and sponge filters are good choices. PH is crucial for mystery snails. This species’ shell can begin to wear down to develop pitting if they’re being housed in water at too low a pH. These snails like to hide to some degree, ensuring their security.

Mystery snail and tank conditions

Mystery snails are mostly hardy by nature, but they avoid rapid changes in the aquatic environment. Pomacea bridgesii shows tolerance to salinity levels between 0-6.8 ppt, of which the chances of exposure survival are greater than 80% after three days of exposure. They can live in tanks of almost any size, although they are best kept in tanks starting at 10 gallons. Snails are susceptible to copper.

Wrapping up

We hope the guide has been helpful for those who like to have mysterious snails. From relentless algae eaters to their unusual appearance and mannerisms, there has never been anything boring about putting some of these in your tank. We hope this guide helps demonstrate the many benefits of having this creature in tanks.

Conclusion

Mystery snails (Pomacea bridgesii and Pomacea diffusa) have distinct colors and large sizes and eat dense algae or organic matter. These snails are pretty easy to keep as they don’t have to be anything unique to keep them alive. They tend to starve to death if you don’t provide the necessary food for them. Avoid purchasing snails with a broken shell; use the following common rule before buying snails to put in your tank. If you keep up with stable water parameters, you should have no problem keeping this snail.

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Best Substrate for Cichlid Aquarium

Natural vs. Artificial Substrates

Natural substrates

Pebbles:

Gravel:

Sand:

Aquarium soil:

Artificial substrate

And bare bottoms!

The Best Substrate for Cichlids Aquarium

Considerations When Choosing Substrate

Size of particles

Color

Impact on the tank water

Effect on the fish

Tips for Maintaining and Using Substrate

Final Thoughts – best substrate for cichlid aquarium

Understanding Light Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

Choosing the Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants for Different Stages of Plant Growth

Early growth and seedling stage

Vegetative growth stage

Flowering and fruiting stage

Types of Aquaria Light and Their Spectrum

A. Full Spectrum Lights

C. T5 and T8 Fluorescent Lights

D. Metal Halide Lights

Proper Placement of Lights

Using Timers for Consistency

Adjusting Light Intensity and Duration

Monitoring Plant Response

Real-life Examples and Case Studies of the Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

Final Thoughts – Best Spectrum for Aquarium Plants

Factors That Affect Aquarium Fish Aggression

Aggression During Breeding

Provocation Causing Aggression

Aggressive Freshwater Fish Are Usually Carnivorous

Feeding Time Leads to Aggressive Freshwater Fish

12 Popular Aggressive Freshwater Fish

Tiger Barbs

Gourami fishes

Cichlids

Puffer

Pea Puffer

African leaf fish

Arowana

Black Wolffish

Betta Fish/Siamese Fighting Fish

Plecostomus

Oscar

Rainbow shark

Piranha

Aggressive Freshwater Fish

Aggressive Freshwater Fish During Breeding

Bala Shark Care Guide

Description

How Large Can the Bala Shark Grow?

Origin and Distribution of the Bala Shark

Bala Shark Care Guide: Ideal Habitat and Aquarium Tank Size

Ideal Habitat:

Aquarium Tank Size

Bala Shark Care Guide: Maintaining a Healthy Aquarium Environment

Bala Shark Water Parameters

Temperament of the Bala Shark

Suitable Silver Shark Tankmates

Feeding Your Bala Shark:

Bala Shark Care Guide Diseases

Breeding Bala Sharks in a Home Aquarium

Requirements and Conditions:

Breeding Tank Setup:

Male and female differences:

Spawning and Care:

Raising Bala Shark Fry:

Final Thoughts – Bala Shark Care Guide

An overview of the Platinum Arowana (osteoglossum bicirrhosum)

Arowana habitat

The Arowana is a true carnivore

Description of the Platinum Arowana

Arowanas, a threatened species

Why is the Platinum Arowana so sort after?