Care Guides

Bamboo Shrimp Care Guide: Size, Diet, Lifespan, and More!

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Bamboo shrimp

Bamboo shrimp are a type of freshwater crustacean. They can be found living in the wild, but they’re more commonly kept as pets in aquariums. If you want to keep them in your home or office, there are certain things you should know about their care requirements and lifespan. In this article, we’ll talk about size, diet, lifespan, and other details that will help make sure your new pet is happy and healthy!

In contrast to other species, Bamboo shrimp, also known as wood shrimp, Singapore flower shrimp, or flower shrimp, Atyopsis moluccensis tend to have a different way of capturing food. A fan-like appendage filters out sediment particles from water. This shrimp requires another feed-in method to be employed. Care for Bamboo shrimp varies widely. Keep reading to learn everything you need about Bamboo shrimp care and keeping in an aquarium. You can purchase this shrimp online.

Bamboo Shrimp Care Guide

These freshwater shrimps live for about 2-years though unfortunately have a tough time adapting to new tanks. The common cause for death is the wrong way to acclimatize the new Atyopsis moluccensis. They are susceptible to sudden changes in temperature and water quality. Do not place heavy and toxic chemicals in your water column. Never introduce or add shrimp in your tank without proper acclimatization. Use the drip method to drain water from the tank to the container where the shrimp is, thus equalizing the parameters.Bamboo Shrimp

Description of bamboo shrimp

A Bamboo shrimp has four fans instead of a claw to capture small food particles in the water column and take them to the mouth. They exhibit various colors, including a combination of brown, red, green, creamy whites, and blue with a mixture of creamy yellow-brown down their back. The patterns are effective camouflage to the human eye, which is why so many shrimp keepers lose these giant shrimps in their tanks. Only recently did there exist the precise classification within the species. Bamboo shrimps can grow up to 8-10cm (3-4 inches).

Species History

The most accurate mention of this animal occurs by De Haan in 1849. Over time, it went through various classifications and was found in several open water streams from India to Indonesia, increasing its original geographic distribution. They were raised in the early 1980 and throughout the 1990s as feeds to farming fish. In the late 2000s, it was first introduced as ornamental to the aquarium. Their practical quality and attractive appearance enabled that they rapidly become popular. Because they get along very well with other shrimp, they’re common in freshwater invertebrate tanks. Collecting these shrimp from quickly moving open water can be extremely dangerous, so many are bred in captive conditions.

Bamboo Shrimp Appearance

Bamboo shrimp can grow as long as 4 inches and are among the world’s more giant freshwater aquarium shrimp. They are decapods, and they have five pairs of legs and ten legs total. On three lateral portions, they are known as chelipeds or chelsidas. Its use is also used to gather food. The ten periopods ( or walking legs) are supported by a set of swimming legs (pleopods) that allow the shrimp to swim forward. It is reinforced and can swim on urophodes when trying to escape from bad situations. This shrimp has two beady dark eyes centered on two small stalks surrounded by a large antenna.

Bamboo shrimp requirements

The minimum tank size needs to be at least twenty-seven gallons (102 liters) the larger, the better. A water filter with a high flow should be used to mimic their natural habitat. Atyopsis moluccensis regularly molts so they can grow. The exoskeleton they had hidden was revealed beneath its new structure. The vulnerable shrimp will stay hidden for some days until it hardens its carapace. It is common for aquarium owners also to fill their Bamboo shrimp tanks with tons of plants. Plant fertilizer pellets tend to sink to the bottom, where they dissolve slowly into the water. When applying plant fertilizers, ensure that they are safe for shrimps.

Bamboo Shrimp Care

Singapore flower shrimp care is relatively low maintenance and easily accessible to pretty much anyone. It takes time for people to be used to how to feed them. Although shrimp are surprisingly hardy and easily recognizable, these critters may suffer serious health complications when they experience significant changes in the water parameters. We will discuss this later, but this invertebrate can be adapted in an aqua tank. The main thing is focusing on being constant but also giving the best. The best aquarium for this shrimp species should have stable water parameters.

Bamboo Shrimp Size & Lifespan

When fully mature, a healthy Bamboo shrimp is about three to four inches long. Their life expectancy can range anywhere from 1 – 2 years if in the right conditions. However, it’s not uncommon for the Bamboo shrimp to die soon after introducing it to the tank. Perhaps it’s a change in water parameters or the stress from being transported.

Housing

Bamboo shrimp are excellent for community tanks and are known for their peaceful nature. However, the aquarist should maintain one shrimp per tank unless kept in a high-end (75 gallons or more significant) aquarium. Hidden spots can also be crucial as shrimp molt approximately every two months. During the selection of the filter, a hang-on is the best choice for a Bamboo shrimp tank. The tank should be heavily placed with great hiding locations. Driftwoods and smooth river stones help create their natural environment where they live among rocks or roots. Shrimp usually hides until hardening their shells.

Bamboo Shrimp Care: Water & Habitat

They do not like a new tank; Bamboo shrimp seem to do good in established aquariums with parameters in the tropical freshwater community tanks range. As for any aquatic invertebrate, it is vital to avoid copper as it’s fatal for them. Be careful with plant fertilizer as it dissolves slowly. One important Bamboo shrimp care issue involves copper, which filter-feeding shrimp can consume in significant concentrations and could be fatal or harmful. Make sure all fertilizers are plant safe.

Habitat and tank conditions

The species is native to Southeast Asia: Sri Lanka, the Samoan Islands, Japan, India, and the Malay Peninsula. They inhabit the fast-moving inland rivers and streams. Warm waters were usually somewhat alkaline, and a lot of light was given out. The habitat consists of abundant plants and rocks at the tributaries where they spend most of their time. These places offer shelter as well as perching points for filters of incoming food. Next, we will talk about the specific steps to assemble your tank.

Water parameters

Understanding the optimal water parameters for Bamboo shrimp is extremely important. Rapid change or suboptimal conditions can cause serious issues, leading to the death of the animals. To keep this consistency, you are expected to check these parameters. The consistency of parameters is essential early when they might still adjust to the new tank conditions.

Setting up their Habitat

The essential item in the water tank includes plants. Include plant species into their tank to facilitate the natural way for them to find food. Tiny pieces of plant waste can enter the water for your shrimp to catch by their own hands! The species also is seen climbing on plants regularly. They have an uncomfortable use to conceal away in the wild and are likely to appreciate interactions they form with them. Any popular aquarium plant can fit. As for the rest of the decoration, you can be much more flexible.

Bamboo Shrimp Habitat: Lots of live plants

Bamboo shrimp

Keep them with a wide variety of aquarium plants, like their natural habitat. Aquariums with living plants are not always too clean, meaning many small edible items are floating in the water. They love to climb around plants as they position themselves to face the movement of the water. They often place themselves on the sponge filter to intercept any unwanted food particles which would otherwise be taken up the filtering tube. They also like rocks like lava rocks. Like other filter feeders, they seem to like tanks with sponge filters on powerful hob exhausts. This is because microcrustaceans and other plankton are housed in the sponge, which will serve as food for the fan shrimp.

Bamboo Shrimp Molting Process

The wood shrimp give some signs before molting. The shrimp should keep hiding behind plants, rocks, a heater, or the filter about a day or two before shedding. When the molting cycle is accomplished, it leaves its old empty shell in the waters. Some hobbyists leave molted shells in the water and watch and see what happens. The remaining unaffected shell disintegrated. Let’s hope this indicates that those sea minerals will be dissolved as we get to the water at some stage. Amano shrimp, ghost shrimp, and red cherry shrimp came looking for them.

Take care

If you find that rotting shells are still present in the ground, you can leave them for a couple of days. Sometimes shrimp come back because their diet is incredibly nutritious. Sometimes the remaining shrimp will eat the dead tank mate for nutrition. If a shrimp appears motionless for long periods, the situation could be wrong. If you detect sick shrimp, isolate them immediately. Numerous treatment ways can restore them to health. Before applying chemicals to an aquarium, make sure they never contain copper. It is toxic for bamboo and many other invertebrates.

Bamboo Shrimp Feeding in Nature

Bamboo shrimp are omnivorous creatures and rarely consume food. They feed predominantly, filtering the drifting detrital particles in the water column by the cheliped setae. They capture microscopic animals, organic detritus, and algae inside a large fan and transfer them to their mouths. They also prefer rapid water displacement. They are the result of increased food intake proportionate to the actual water velocity of the source water. They can be more active at night.

Feeding

High-quality food must be an offer to Bamboo shrimp with quality food. Food gravitated toward the bottom of the tanks should quickly be swept off with it. They can be active even if they clean out the filter of your tank and tiny bits of dirty food fall from the filter, and the water is carried along with it. Sometimes there may be no leftovers in the tank because the shrimp refuses to leave. They sit right near our pump, filtering the water supply for food. If they were still missing this meal, they could even die of it.

The feeding of bamboo shrimp is fun to watch

Bamboo shrimp are fed as the food is filtered from the current by what seems like four delicate ball mitts held in front of their faces. The shrimp takes a handful from the mitts every few seconds and releases the pieces to its mouth. You need to have your tank adequately covered if they are climbing the hose at night looking for food, and they can fall from the surface of the water. If shrimp fall out, it won’t last too much out of the freshwater, so always check regularly to assure your safety.

Bamboo shrimp tankmates

Because Bamboo shrimp are very fragile, the keeper should take great care to identify the best tankmates that wouldn’t harm. This means no small predatory species such as cyprinids or bettas view these fish as simple prey. Peaceful species on this list (small tetra, catfish, and hatchet fish) and other harmless invertebrates such as dwarf shrimp and snails would make a good choice. Also, always keep your Bamboo shrimp in groups, as they appreciate safety in number; always remember what their tank size and filter can handle.

Is bamboo shrimp suitable for an aquarium?

Bamboo shrimp makes a lovely tankmate species and are a great choice if you have sufficient space. It will be necessary to consider whether tank conditions and tank mates would be adequate.

Tankmates

You should prevent any bigger aggressive tank mates with wood shrimp. Most large cichlids and any predators should be avoided. Crayfish may also not share a tank with Bamboo shrimp as they inevitably hunt and are killing them. Arowanas and peacock bass should also avoid

Bamboo Shrimp Breeding

Bamboo shrimp larvae need saltwater to thrive. In nature, they breed in brackish water. Adults cannot survive in saltwater. Having a separate brackish water tank could appear an obvious solution, but aquarists tried this many times. We have not encountered any successful solutions. We suggest not trying to breed Bamboo shrimp. If you want to reproduce it in captivity, you must seek help from a knowledgeable animal expert.

Breeding

Bamboo shrimp is not the type to chose for breeding purposes. Adult adults cannot survive in shallow brackish water. Typically male to female will be 1:1. Fortunately, there’s something for which you can have an excellent sexual experience earlier. One female bears 2000 egg cells on its abdomen for 30-40 days. They turn brown as they grow and eventually develop into floating larvae. After 90 days, larvae metamorphosed, at which point they continued to swim forward. You could reintroduce these into your main aquarium.

The behavior of bamboo shrimp

Bamboo shrimp

Across the tank, Bamboo shrimp spread their chelae in a filter-feeding posture. They unfold like an umbrella keeping it in place until enough suspended matter is lodged in the circulating fan’s surface. In still water, these are motionless to most extent, and most frequently, the substrate does not have any food sources at any time. They have never been observed to make burrows in the substrate. The tall giant shrimp have squat bodies, a short rostrum, and strong legs than the graceful dwarf shrimp.

Potential health complications

It is sensitive to water changes. Even small amounts of copper can kill them. Because a significant part of tank medications contain copper, remove shrimp if there is any medicine added to your tank that contains copper. When performing water changes, make sure the parameters are equal.

Watch for motionlessness

The shrimp can be under one of the plant’s leaves, under a rock, behind the decorations, or in the back of a power filter system. Interestingly, the same follicle acrobats acoustically may be expected when pre-molting, especially if the shrimps don’t molt and don’t feed after a few days. If the shrimp remains listless, you should check water parameters to know water levels inside the proper range. It’s essential to look for signs of trouble while fishing for shrimp if the shrimp does not feed adequately and the current status of water is in the normal range.

Hunger signs: Bamboo Shrimp Pick For Food

Bamboo shrimp are often unsatisfied with their diet and can become picky at times. Prepare to give them meals so that they can fill quickly. Bamboo shrimp are often spotted strolling down the bottom of their tank to pick at the material for the edible matter in their new home. Pick food from the substrate is a usual behavior when they’re starving, so get some of them a treat. After a few days, they will be out again and eating normally.

Keep bamboo shrimp together

Bamboo Shrimp can interact perfectly with each other. You can also keep it in the group as you have plenty of room on a tank. It’s not just a social behavior because everyone has identified it as suitable for filters or other filtration processes. Even if they’re each fighting in the same position, they’ll never behave aggressively. They are very plentiful in the wild. You can also hold lots of shrimp inside your tank.

Fertilizer and bamboo shrimp

I don’t know when a high amount of copper in an aquarium becomes harmful to Bamboo shrimp. About 98% of all aqua fertilizers have copper. It looks prudent to limit it as much as possible to avoid fertilizers that contain copper. For bamboo shrimp, it is better to prevent fertilizers with copper in your aquarium.

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If you have an aquarium of 75 to 100 gallons, you will keep an exotic and delicate shrimp on top of your golden fish. They are alien species of shrimp and can grow in a tank capacity of 75 liters. These shrimp species can be grown in small tanks of at least 100 gallons.

[Ultimate] Balloon Molly Fish: The Complete Care Guide

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Molly Fish

Dive into the under water world of Balloon Molly Fish with this ultimate guide that provides comprehensive insights and expert tips for best care and enjoyment of these captivating small fish.

Molly Fish are one of the most commonly kept fishes in tropical aquariums. These brightly colored, playful little fish are easily kept happy and live among the peacefully surrounding community fish.

Mollies are a great first fish for newcomers to aquariums. This guide introduces you to the beautiful and exotic Balloon Molly, including a helpful care guide with the ability to keep your new fish.

What is a balloon Molly fish?

The balloon body Molly is a result of artificial selection through crosses carried out by breeders. This type of Molly is man-made and won’t be found in nature. Balloon Mollies are peaceful fish. Easy to maintain and offer an easy and safe option for beginners.

What is a Balloon Molly?

Molly Fish

Mollies are freshwater fish species that belong to the Poeciliidae family. There are about 300 species of Poecilia. Molly fish is native to North and Latin America and mainly lives in warm, dry tropical rivers, streams, ponds, and mangroves. They are livebearers. When kept in the right conditions, mollies may be held for up to five years. Alternatively, mollies may be kept in brackish and even saltwater.

Molly Fish Care Guide & Species Profile

The Molly fish has been one of the most bred by ornamental aquaculture for many years and is also a best seller in the sector’s stores. Molly fish come in a variety of colors and shapes. These are simple ways to add this beautiful fish to your tank. This article covers the popular balloon variety and explains their ideal setups, diet, and much more.

Balloon Molly Fish Characterization

This species resides primarily in Central and South America, mainly in salty and brackish waters. These little fish typically get color in white or silver. In natural environments, an average fish can reach 12 centimeters (around 4 inches). In the aquarium, they reach about 6 to 8 cm, 2.3 to 3.2 inches. The lifespan of this type of fish in captivity is usually 3-4 years.  Mollies present sexual dimorphism, being distinguished by a rounded anal fin in females and conical males. They have internal egg incubation, give birth to larvae, and are viviparous. They have a compressed body with a big belly, and even though they look like it, the organs are not contracted in the internal cavity.

Balloon Belly Molly Fish Body Shape & Size

Adult Mollies have a two-inch length, while their size is at most three inches or 7-8 centimeters. They have an arch-back and a rounded large belly with a lyr-shaped caudal fin and are unique in their character. It’s the smallest of all kinds of Mollies and the smallest of all types of fish. The maximum size is four inches, and the maximum can be almost five.

Poecilia sphenopsis

Molly Fish

Poecilia sphenops is a species of the Poecilia genus of fish known by the common name of Molly. They live in freshwater streams and coast brackish and sea waters from Mexico to northern Venezuela and Colombia. Wild-type fish are dull to dark silver-like in color. Male Mollies resemble a mild aggressive person. Mollies rank as one of the most popular feeder fish due to their high growth rate, birth size, reproduction, and brood numbers. Generally, the Molly can yield fertile hybrids with many species, the most significant being the Sailfin Molly.

Types and appearance

There are many species and types of Molly fish – most of them are very similar to common Molly Poecilia sphenops. Females have an anal fin spread into a fan, whereas males have a pointier tip. Males grow to 3 inches, and females become larger. Pregnant females will always look more significant than other ones. In addition, their bellies will get bigger as they become older.

Balloon Molly Fish: Care, Feed, Breeding, Tank Set

Mollies are among the best freshwater fish for beginners because they are hardy, fun, and easy to care for. These cute little creatures are just lovely embellishments for your aquarium. Here you can discover more about balloon mollies.

Molly Fish Care

The Balloon Molly fish is a tropical fish that originates from salty and brackish water but is easily adapted to freshwater. A teaspoon of salt per five-gallon of water can help them with some problems. The balloon trait is obtained by selectively breeding fish who develop scoliosis (spinated spine). Balloon Mollies often have a reduced lifespan because of the inefficiency of the body shape, low-quality offspring, and possible genetic problems.

Balloon Molly Fish Lifespan

We can extend the lifespan of our fish by organizing and improving their environment, making maintenance and water changes regularly, keeping the water parameters optimal for the species, and offering high-quality food. It’s easier to avoid diseases than treat them. Therefore, everything mentioned above contributes to maintaining the fish’s immune system, reducing occurrences. So if you buy a new fish or plant, place it in a quarantine tank first, then release it in the main aquarium for some days. If you want to introduce newly acquired fish in your aquarium, quarantine them for up to two weeks.

Doing water changes for Balloon Mollies

Perform weekly water changes in your aquarium, changing at least 30% of the total tank volume. By changing the water, we remove pollutants and toxins that the plants and bacterias will not cycle. When you use tap water, treat it with a water conditioner. Tap water has chlorine, chloramine, and other substances that can be harmful to the aquarium and fish, so you must treat it. In each maintenance, the substrate must be cleaned perfectly, vacuumed, siphoning all the dirt; the aquarist must pay special attention to decorations and spaces where dirt can be trapped.

Aquarium size for balloon mollies

A 20+ Gallon water container should be able to hold around 12 fish. Mollies, especially those that resemble balloons in size, do produce vast volumes of waste. They need a lot of swimming spaces to remain healthy and grow to their full size. A larger tank will offer fewer risks and provide an even wider range of habitat. There are plenty of other factors to think about putting more than two Molly fish in each gallon of water; the more important is the filtration and your maintenance schedule.

Aquarium Setup For Balloon Molly Fish

Unlike other aquarium fishes, some setups are somewhat debatable topics. We will discuss the various aspects of every part of this.

How do I care for balloon mollies?

Balloon Mollies can be pretty easy to keep. They stay comfortable using the standard tropical tank arrangement.

Do balloon mollies need a filter?

Balloon belly Mollies like to stay in the water in larger aquariums without filtering, but you should always add a filter in the tank. Choose the filter that best suits your system, and remember to mainly use biological filtration, well-sized, with the use of ceramics or sponges or suchlike. The biologic filter also ensures the ability to fully cycle its tank and protect water against ammonia surges daily. Thicker substrates may help create an anoxic region that nourishes some types of beneficial bacterias, but that’s a subject for another article; stay tuned.

Do balloon mollies need live plans?

Mollies don’t necessarily need plants, but they like them and use them for food and hiding. Live plants also help with aquarium nutrient cycling and beautification. Plants can also improve water cleanliness by removing nitrous-based contaminants from the water, using it as fertilizer to grow. If you want a straightforward setup without the expensive CO2-based system, you can choose easy-to-care plans like those known as low-tech. This plant does not require intense light and the addition of a CO2 system. Sometimes you may want to help them with liquid fertilizers.

Do balloon mollies need a heater?

Heaters, as well as filters, are always necessary for the proper maintenance of any fish. Heaters will keep the temperature stable. Fluctuations in parameters cause a drop in the efficiency of the animals’ immune system. Balloon Belly Mollies are especially susceptible to these fluctuations.

Balloon Molly Fish Tank Mates

It would help if you didn’t mix balloon Mollies with Cherry-shrimp; otherwise, they will turn into a snack. Amano shrimps can grow to 3 to 4 inches in size and can’t breed in freshwater aquariums, and, being pacific, are an excellent choice for a tankmate. If you like snails in your aquarium, you can choose some apple snail or ramshorn. If in a community tank for other fish species, you should select calm and small fish only.

Tank Mates

Large fish may eat your mollies. Betta fish are too aggressive as they fight or harass your fish. Cichlids are a group consisting of diverse bad cases. Most invertebrates live well in the same tank as mollies, but some turn into food. Shrimp and snails are popular options, and there are many species to choose from. Most small peaceful community fish are okay; fish to avoid are large or aggressive.

Are Molly fish suitable for an aquarium?

There are no reasons not to get Mollies. They are perfect for community aquariums. It would be best if you avoided large and aggressive fish as tankmates. Their health depends on the conditions of the tank that should be within their prescribed parameters. Mollies can tolerate a vast range; therefore, you could put them in various types of tanks. They are easy to care for and easy to breed and they have many colors and are very active in the tank.

Balloon Mollies by colors & fins

They are usually different sizes and shapes compared to the other Molly fish. Their fundamental disparity occurs due to body shape and size. The different types of balloon fish can be categorized according to the style of fins. Some fishes have sailfin dorsals or lyretail fins.

Balloon Molly Shape Color & Size

Balloon mollies are about 2 to 5 inches in size. The balloon molly’s namesake was taken from their round, “overweight” form. Balloon mollies come in a variety of colors: silver, black, orange, white, etc. Like typical black Molly, females have a little larger belly than males. The fins of the Ballon Molly females are rounded, while the males have a sailing-like dorsal body.

Habitat and tank conditions

Mollys are found living within different habitats in the wild. They most commonly occur in deep rivers and streams in North, Central, and South America. They have adapted easily over multiple environments. Plants would also be plentiful; they mainly use them to hide, but they are also crucial for reproduction. This lake is in tropical climates bringing ample amount of sunlight for plant growth. The water would be warm and slowly moving. pH is upon the alkaline side.

Sickness & Disease

It is recommended that you be attentive to Molly’s behavior. Always looking and noticing the animal’s misbehavior can help you save it. If the balloon’s belly rubs on the rocks, then a potential cause of the problem could be fungal or external parasite infection. If it swims upsidedown, you need to change the water immediately since it means poor water quality. There may be many reasons for this happens. Before giving any other conclusions, you have to seek advice from your local aquarist.

Breeding

Mollies are livebearers, so their eggs are incubated into the body till the fry be released. These are also some of the most accessible fish groups to grow in captivity. Conditions inside breeding tanks must be perfect, and the water should be clean. It may be easier or better to raise the temperature for mating, but not much above 78° F. Male performs a courting show for females, and when they are ready for mating, males fertilize their eggs. After fertilizing, it takes 3-4 weeks for fry to be released.

Breeding: Things to do for successful mating

Mollies are a livebearer because they don’t lay eggs. During the reproductive period, female Mollies give birth to over 100 tiny Molly fry. You can keep three males for two females for breeding purposes. The male shall use his gonopodium or pointed fin when breeding. You can separate the fry for the breeding group.

How do you tell if a balloon molly is male or female?

Both male and female Mollies have rounded or pointed dorsal fins that separate them from each other. Do not leave the molly fish alone. Keep at least a group of Molly fish together because, if not, it can increase the chance of bullying or injuries. Make sure it stayed in at least pairs. You should also maintain the gender ratio between the men and women in 2:1 inside the tanks.

Availability

Almost all varieties of mollies are available in fish shops. They are easily affordable at only a few dollars per fish. The most unusual kinds are more expensive.

Best tankmate for Balloon Belly Molly

Molly fish is a fish with a peaceful temperament who prefers to live with fish of the same kind. A pair could happily live with other fish. Female Mollies most commonly have calmer characters than males. Males are often quite aggressive if they have other males in the tank. Their best fish buddies would be others livebearers’ fish since their smaller size allows their compatibility with some different fish of the exact nature.

Diseases

Mollies are generally healthy, robust fish, although they can suffer from typical tropical fish diseases. Poor water quality is a determinant factor of illness. To keep the water clear, you need to install a good-quality mechanical and biological filtration system and proceed with weekly partial water changes. Check Ammonia and Nitrite amounts with a test kit.

Balloon Molly Diseases Parasites and Remedies

The most common diseases in balloon molly fish are ich/ick(white spot), velvet(gold dust), fin rot, and flukes. Unfortunately, some conditions are harder to treat, like dropsy, swimming bladder disorder, bent spinal, or tuberculosis. You can find out more about the most commonly known parasites and diseases in another very detailed article. As long as the animals are eating good quality food and the water conditions in the fish tank are good, the fish should have no problems.

Male to Female Balloon Molly Ratio

Female mollie gives birth to fry every three-and-a-half weeks. In your community tank, you should have one male to more than two females. So the females will get time to rest and stay calm without the continual harassment by the male. It would be best to keep the ratio to 1 male to 3 females, thus reducing the stress placed on females by eager males.

What should I feed them?

Molly fish eat only vegetable origin feeding. Algae are a significant portion of their diet. They remove them with their lips. It is also important to have vegetables. If you introduce carotenoids to the food, it should keep your Molly Fish vibrant with colors. Live and frozen food provide an excellent source of protein. In this respect, bloodworms and brine shrimp are happily accepted and recommended. Feed them twice daily. This helps their immune system process their food.

Conclusion

Most strains of Molly fish are fun and easy to keep in an aquarium. Their only prerequisite is a large tank, which often exceeds 30 gallons. A few types require you to add a small quantity of salt to the water, so you need to ensure your fish are living well.

Betta Fish Care Guide – Everything You Need to Know

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Betta Fish Care

Betta Fish (Betta splendens), also known as Siamese Fighting fish, are among the most beautiful freshwater species. Unfortunately, their popularity has led to the spread of many misconceptions about how to keep Betta Fish Care. This article will cover everything you need to know about Betta Fish Care, including size, diet, lifespan, and more.

Aquarists must understand how to properly care for their pets to provide them with the best quality of life possible. This post will cover all aspects ofBetta Fish Care– from feeding and fish tank requirements to information on breeding and disease prevention. If you’ve been looking for a comprehensive guide on Betta Fish Care, then this is it!

Betta Fish Care 101 Everything You Need To Know

This Betta Fish Care guide provides information for owners on maintaining the proper care for a siamese fighting fish. This includes suggested betta fish tank sizes, keeping perfect water parameters in the fish tank, feeding information, and more. With proper care, your Betta could live a good five years, despite its average lifespan of 2 to 4 years. Betta Fish Care are intelligent and beautiful fish that must be kept with care. The beautiful betta fish are tranquil and affordable to own and maintain, and they can bring joy and companionship for years to come. Knowing how to take care of Betta will make things easier when getting them for the first time.Betta Fish Care

Summary of species

Betta fish are a small but fierce freshwater tropical fish native to Southeast Asian countries. They can live up to three years; five if in perfect conditions. Betta fish have been considered an ideal gateway to the aquarium hobby. Apart from their intelligence and low maintenance requirements, betta fish have unique and remarkable attributes – their parenchymatous lung system and labyrinth organ. This means that betta fish belong to the “labyrinth fishes” (the family Osphronemidae). This organ allows them to breathe oxygen straight from the atmosphere, outside the surface of the water. This feature can make Betta Fish Care more resistant to poor water conditions, although you should also aim for perfect water quality in your tank at home.

Betta Fish – The best beginner pet fish

Betta fish, also known as Betta splendens or Siamese Fighting Fish, is a long-time favorite tropical fish pet for beginners and veteran fish keepers due to their colorful fins and playful personality. Discover the proper care for Betta before acquire your first fish. This care guide is suited to new and experienced aquarists and will detail how to care for a betta properly.

Appearance

Betta Fish Care

Betta fish is of identical shape to other members of the gourami family (Osphronemidae). This unique type of organ known as a labyrinth organ allows them to survive in low oxygen environments. A great variety of Betta species are found in the wild, and all of them can be identified by their color pattern and fin shape. The sexual dimorphism between male and female Betta Fish Care is very evident. Females are smaller than males, and their colors are not very striking. Short, hairlike fins are primarily worn in the female betta fish only—most reach on average 2.25 inches.

Typical behavior

Fighting fish are violent and territorial to each other and also to any other fish similar to them. Males will fight to the death when gathered together and will attack females who reject their plan to mate, even those who accept. Betta Fish Care, when showing aggressiveness, always display their fins and plays underwater acrobatics. They’re surprisingly intelligent and understand their environment in a manner that most fish don’t. You will find that females tend to be calmer than groups of males, and they often swim in small shoals. These curious fish will look in various areas in the tank but spend their most productive time in either lower or middle levels or lying down in some decoration.

Conditions of water for Bettas

Betta Fish Care prefer the least mineralized (soft) water, and with a pH of around 7, wild bettas need more acidic water; it’s worth asking the pet store owner where the fish comes from. They live in warm water temperature, between 78-80º F, preferring lower levels of ammonia and nitrates. Bettas fish is easy to keep happy and healthy and tolerate fluctuations that would kill other fish; this happens because they live in shallow ponds, which change temperature and other conditions quickly and frequently.

Plants, hideouts, and decorations for Betta fish

Mimicking the natural habitat is the best way of proper care for a betta in a tank. All live plants are the best plants for the Betta Fish Care tank as they get rid of ammonia and offer places to hide. Don’t worry though, artificial plants in the tank are also excellent and resistant. You have to be inspected during tank maintenance to prevent the accumulation of dirt in holes and grooves of the ornaments in the aquarium. The holes in the decorations should be large, thus preventing betta fish from getting stuck in them.

Additional tank recommendations

Betta fish are not exceptionally swimmers, so any strong water flow in the tank can cause stress. It would be vital if it has some lid to cover the Betta Fish Care tank. They can frequently reach the water surface and can quickly get out of the water. Pay attention to the minimum tank size to keep Fish like Betta. Beware of low water temperature; it can weaken your betta fish.

Betta Fish Care Tools

Betta Fish Care species are tolerant of room temperatures but prefer tropical weather. For proper Betta Fish Care, they prefer temperatures between 72-86º F. In cold water, they can suffer from a weak immune system which can lead to ich, dropsy, and other infections. Nitrifying bacteria have a significant bearing on aquarium health. The larger the aquarium, the easier it is to maintain water standards. The filter provides water circulation and a base for your nitrifying bacteria. A sponge or submersible filter is also recommended for creating a straightforward cleaner unit that will hold beneficial bacteria once your bowl and aquarium are cycled. The filter is also essential in Betta Bowls.

Betta Fish Care Guide

Fin rot is an infection that occurs due to the poor quality of the water standards; bacteria, fungus, or both can cause it. Dropsy can be recognized as a swelling in the animal’s abdomen, the scales are raised, and the swimming is crooked. Because you can’t use a powerful filter, you need to rely on periodic water changes to keep the tank as clean as possible. If your animal scale is raised widely like pineapple, then dropsy has to be an explanation. You have to perform water changes to keep perfect pollutant-free water.

Betta Fish Tank Mates

Two female betta fish are housed, with one male Betta Fish Care in the tank. This allows up to five female fish to be tank mates and share a big tank. Betta fish should have space in the tank. For bettas, good tank mates include fish like rasboras, ghost shrimps, tetras, catfish, gouramis, or mollies. Two male Betta Fish Care will need to exert dominance, and the result will be a severe injury and, most likely, one of the male’s death. Betta fish can be great with other animals but will also become competitive and aggressive between the same species.

Other Tank Mates

Betta fish are aggressive. Surprisingly, they get very comfortable with nano school fish in the same tank because shoaling protect large fish from the fight’s temper. Catfish and bottom dwellers can also work well with betta fish because they remain near the bottom and do not venture into betta fish territory. It would be best if you never left any Gourami species in a Betta tank. Finnippers got to be avoided. The Siamese algae eater, tigers barbs, and certain species of tetra should be kept away.

Tank Size

Betta fish should not be in an under a 5-gallon water tank. Ideally, with an extra gallon for each additional fish. It is common to use bowls to house betta fish even if it is not the correct recommendation. Bowls lack the necessary space to house the animal, which can result in excess stress. Start with a five-gallon tank and progress.

Food and Feeding

In the wild, the betta fish eat insect larvae on the surface of the pool. Replicating what and how betta fish eat in the wild can maintain their happy and healthy state. Betta Fish Care food is available in various forms, including pellets, fish flakes, live food, and freeze-dried solutions. The frozen dry bloodworms and brine shrimp are Betta’s favorite items. Breeders should avoid manufactured pellet and flakes by using live-feed food for breeding betta fish.

How often should I feed my betta fish?

A dedicated Betta Fish Care pellet and freeze-dried bloodworms are everyday meals for the fish, but regular fish food for omnivorous carnivores can be used. These floating pellets are specially made for providing the nutrients that fish need. (This article answers the question: How often should I feed betta fish blood worms?)

Habitat Care Cleaning and Maintenance

The smaller the Betta Fish Care tank, the faster the pollution occurs. Water quality deteriorates because of the accumulation of ammonia produced by the waste of the fish. This forces water’s pH to drop into an unhealthy range. A good filter can reduce these concentrations and establish healthy bacteria in tanks. The fish will merely swim around its waste, and it can eventually get ill over time.

Breeding Betta Fish

In action, Betta fish breeding behavior is fascinating. A male creates a net on surface water to attract females. The female will deposit her eggs into the tank water, where the male will collect them in his mouth and put them under a bubble net. Up to 500 eggs may be laid at once, but only about 40 of them will be caught and placed within the nest. As the eggs hatch, the male attack the female until she gets out from the nest. It will take about four months before their juvenile form is matured.

Size

When they reach seven months, they usually have a complete cycle of growth. Male Betta Fish Care have bigger and shorter fins than females and possess a wider body. Compare female fish to male fish; you will see the most significant differences in length in the fins, which are more extensive and prolonged in males. Both males and females average around 2.5 inches.

Behavior & Temperament

Betta Fish Care

Good fishing care requires awareness of their protective qualities. They will often flash the colors as a warning sign for tank mates and outsiders. When threatened, they will also puff out their gills and fins to convince you they’re never to be disturbed. You want to ensure that they get in the right tank with the ideal tank mates. The fish are active and hungry and come to the surface frequently.

How to take care of different Betta fish

Betta fish fry requires special attention during their growing. There are dozens of more species of bettas, and the Betta splendens are available for sale at most pet retailers. Betta splendens come in varied tail patterns, achieved by selective breeding; however – all must have the same level of care and characteristics. Fry’s upbringing needs to be reserved for experienced caretakers and breeders. Fry needs special diets to survive as it cannot put any betta pellets into his mouths. More than 70 different varieties of this fish species, including delta tail, veiltail, double tail, a butterfly, and a Halfmoon.

History and the first sighting

The first recorded case is from the Thai monarchy in the 1840s. Fish fighting became popular in Thailand in the 19th century. Today the Betta is the most prevalent aquarium fish after Goldfish. They were imported into the West in the early 20th century and reached the United States in 1910. The Betta became known as ornamental fish rather than fighter after being outlawed by the Thai royal family in the 1800s. Nowadays, they are popular aquarium fish globally, as do the Goldfish in China, Japan, and the USA; they are more prevalent in aquariums than ever before.

Betta Fish Water Heaters and Filters

Betta is a local freshwater fish of the Thai and Cambodian Islands. The ideal temperature for your Betta tank is 78-80 degrees F which makes you care when choosing a heat source. It’s possible to find a high-capacity heater that will not break but will heat your tank reliably and consistently. Please read our guide on Betta tank heaters; it’s a quick read, and it’s an easy way to keep your tank from becoming an ice pond.

How long should water sit before adding fish?

Many facilities treat their waters with chlorine and other chemicals. Always add water conditioning or de-chlorinator to the tap water, so your water can stay safe for animal use. Never skip the water conditioner.

Betta Fish Tank Setup

Betta fish prefer aquariums larger than two gallons. There is a notion that Bettas are such great fish because they don’t need filters and live happily in cups or fish bowls. You might think that because Betta fish are small animals, their fish tanks got to have the same size. If your fish wishes to be happy, reading the article Best Betta Tank for Happy, Healthy Betta is an excellent option.

Betta Tank Cleaning

A clean tank is vital to the health of your Betta Fish Care. Maintain routine aquarium maintenance. Vacuum the substrate, clean the filters, ornaments and replenish the water. Avoid washing the aquarium with water straight from the tap; under no circumstances use soap. Clean the tank walls with a specialized cleaner and wash the filter with water taken from the aquarium to prevent biological losses.

Betta Tank Size and Environment

The minimum volume of each Betta is two gallons. It is recommended for a size of 6 gals. The Betta splendens live in shallow oxygen inefficient streams, rice pads, and ponds in the wild, but many of these areas are still extensive in water volume. Betta fish need access to the surface of the water to breathe air via their unique labyrinth organ. This organ allows them to take oxygen out of the air and in their veins instead of the simple water.

Keep the male Bettas separated

A good rule of thumb is one male per 10 gallons and never less than four females. By doing so, they can spread the anger and violence across their group rather than one guy becoming the outcast. Providing one female per man also takes one female away to build bubble nests or promote to potential mates. While both will display and fight otherwise, their bouts are much less frequent and rarely fatal. It is nice to use an aquarium of 40+ gallons replicating their natural habitat: full of aquatic plants filling both the surface and the mid-water columns like Hornwort, Vallisneria, and Elodea.

How many Betta fish can I keep together?

You can hardly keep males Betta fish in the same tank. The stress of being placed together with the enemy usually kills them. Certain types of fish live harmoniously in pairs with another male fish; however, there are specific characteristics the tankmates have to meet. As with anything in live animals, personalities will differ. Knowing the fish before, you can understand if it’s a good idea before adding them to the tank. If they display signs of aggression, it’s good common sense to keep them apart, but if they’re not using hostile behavior, it’s okay to experiment with others species.

Look for signs of interest

As the male fish is interested in the female starts nipping from its divider and darkens in color. If interested, a female fish will display horizontal stripes, her ovipositor (the zone from which she sets eggs) will protrude further, and she will move her tail along the surface. At this stage, the male constructs his bubble nest in the shell, just as previously described. It will be decommissioned, but we must watch deadly conflicts first. If the young couple became overly violent, they could have to separate.

Conditioning your Betta fish for spawning

You need to keep water conditions optimal and provide heat and nutrient-rich food like Tubifex, Brine Shrimp, and Bloodworm. Warm water and high in fresh live and frozen foods combined with chemical and behavioral triggers will stimulate males to build their nest and female to begin egg production. After being fertilized, their eggs are collected in the pool of water by the males. He first spits slowly into his bubble nest, where they build up to 72 hours. After her eggs mature, the female enters beneath the nest, and she pairs with each other under the Nuptial Dance.

Betta Fish Fry Care

Betta fish fry is tiny and requires infusoria (plankton), “green water,” and other little prey items. As they grow, you’ll have to up their size to things such as microworms, Brine Shrimp nauplii, powdered flake Daphnia, and later adult foods. Assuming you look at maintaining water parameters, feed them well; this way, you can take them to their fullest potential. The fish may reach adulthood at the age of 3 or four months. If you wish to raise all the fry together, you’re better off netting the whole nest and bringing those larvae to an aquarium only for the fry.

Tell me the best filter for a Betta fish tank?

The most efficient filter for a betta fish is one that can filter over the entire tank repeatedly for over an hour without causing enough flow. The inner filters or sponge filters tend to be a perfect choice. My number one recommendation for a Betta Fish Care filter in small aquariums is the sponge filter, ideal for tanks up to 20 gallons and provides multiple forms of filtration while not blocking bacteria. Betta inhabits shallow and slow-burning bodies of water. They are not equipped with the strength to deal with the fast-moving current that others fish are. Hence the importance of selecting a filter with a low flow rate.

What lighting does Betta Fish need?

Betta species need ample shade at the time of year and dark at night. Artificial light systems are constant and controllable. Live plants in the aquarium need an adequate amount of light to survive and thrive. The lighting may be synthetic or natural, but natural light is challenging to control, and too much sunshine can accelerate algae growth. A good set of artificial aquarium lights can provide your betta fish with the needed illumination without fluctuations. Artificial lighting provides enough light for the fish to grow.

Bettas Butting Heads – The “One Male Rule”

Betta fish are known as battle birds in Siam for the same reason – they attack one another very aggressively. Be careful if you are concerned about putting your male Betta in a community tank or adding more fish to your male Betta tank. Some tank mates work together very well, and you can learn much more from our article. Bettas usually need encouragement and distractions to keep from causing stress. Also, if you’re keeping your animal healthy and happy, you should get a couple of broad-leafed plants to rest.

Wrapping it Up

You’ve learned a lot about how to care for your Betta Fish Care and may have even been inspired to go out and get one. We hope you enjoyed this article on the basics of caring for a Betta Fish, but there is always more information available if you need it! If anything seems unclear or confusing please let us know. Good luck with your new addition!

 

[Complete Guide] Amazon Sword Plant: Care, Planting, Propagation & More

Trevor Aquarium Plants (info and tips), Blog, Care Guides, Info and Tips, Plants (guides) ,
Amazon Sword Plant

Amazon Sword Plants are rosette-type plants that are extremely popular with novices and experienced aquarium hobbyists. They tend to be pale to dark green with many large blunt leafy tufts with pointed tips. Some of the more common aquarium plants can reach 20 inches in height when adequately managed. The sword plant is an amphibious plant that can grow either partially or fully submerged. Sword plants are amphibious plants that can be either partially submerged or in total growth during the aquarium. Their color ranges from pale to dark green and can grow 29″ tall and 20″ thick. The plant is an aquarium hobbyist.

About Amazon Sword Plant

The Amazon Sword Plant, Echinodorus sp., is originated from the Amazon river basin. It is often found in aquariums worldwide, mainly because of its strength and ability to support a broad range of temperatures. This plant isn’t costly. Most of them will be between $5 and $7 per plant. Price always depends on the size of the plant. Some Retailers provide an additional-large plant for $10. Some other species are also found in the USA, Cuba, and Colombia.

Amazon Sword Plant

Buying Amazon Sword Plant

Amazon Sword Plant is a common aquarium plant species, thus its widespread availability in aquarium shops. You can get a small pot of this fantastic plant species for $5-$10. Of course, larger specimens can cost more (up to $20). When getting this plant, look for those with healthy green leaves. Be aware of any drop of leaves at the tank. There is no room for adjustment. Sometimes it takes some weeks to mature up new plants. Buy plants characterized by robust root structures will help ensure their survival over the long term.

Amazon Sword Care

Amazon Sword Plants are very versatile to provide you with dramatic effects in a freshwater aquarium environment without a lot of effort. If you meet the following necessities, it shouldn’t have the problem of thriving! These Amazon swords, as a low-tech plant, do not require much care and can be grown immersed or immersed. Amazon Swords are used to enriching and beautifying the environment in a freshwater aquarium.

Amazon Sword Plant Care Guide – Planting, Growing, and Propagation

Amazon Sword Plants (Echinodorus genus) is a versatile and hardy freshwater aquarium. It is viral among hobbyists due to its very extended longevity, hardiness, and ability to withstand a wide assortment of water conditions/parameters. It requires minimal care and can survive in various tanks (low-tech tanks down to high-tech tanks); it’s suited for beginners. Continue reading for more information on a general maintenance guide and how you can plant it in your tank.

Amazon Sword Plant Guide Care Lighting Planting Propagation

Amazon Sword Plants are a unique aquarium plant with low maintenance and will proliferate in most water conditions. These are ideal for beginners. Read this article to understand how you can set up a fantastic Amazon Sword aquarium. This guide will show you exactly how to care for your new Amazon Sword Plant and answer questions about these species. I hope you enjoy it.

Origin of Amazon Sword Plant

Some species of the genus Echinodorus are popularly called Amazon Swords. At this stage, over 30 species exist from the Echinodorus genus. This plant can be scientifically classified as Kingdom Plantae; Alismatales Order: Alismaticales.

Trimming and Pruning

The principal priority of Amazon swords is space. If the plant can live in plenty of space, then the pruning process will not be required. It’s also good to remove any leaf diseased as amazon swords can succumb to illness. You can trim up old roots as you grow the plants. Cutting back the old foliage may make it harder to produce more new leaves. Just allow the plants to develop by themselves. Avoid overcrowding to reduce excessive overproduction on plants, so plants stay clean.

How do I propagate an Amazon sword plant?

Sword plants develop long mother stems on which plantlets are visible. These little seedlets will develop their root system with a few leaves. As long as both the root and branch are intact, the plantlets can be removed and planted elsewhere. Place the shoots in other tanks is also possible, though make sure the substrate is similar – smaller nodes can struggle to adapt to an entirely new environment. Do not panic if plantlets are a little more yellowish. It’s pretty standard in young plants. It helps to have the CO2 injection to help them grow and develop for a longer time.

How do I plant Amazon swords?

The Amazon Sword Plant should be put in the center of the tank. Put it in the center of the tank will give more room for them to grow and achieve their maximum height. As the plant has become very bushy, it will provide great hiding spots for many aquarium residents. Although you are free to choose any substrate, we suggest using fine-granular sand. For growth, the plant needs a steady foundation.

Are Amazon swords suitable for aquariums?

Amazon Sword Plants are sturdy and aren’t prone to much damage. Experienced tank keepers will also love seeing these beautiful plants prosper in their aquariums. Dirty and polluted water means that your plants will eventually deteriorate and die. Its acidity is equally of great importance. Overall the plant is a great choice that will suit almost any tank set up with plenty of different species of fish – they’ll look fantastic when used in the background. A vital starting point will also provide everyone who wants an excellent introduction to a green landscaped aquarium.

Appearance

Amazon Sword Plants are rosette-type plants with a bushy appearance and thin stems from a central root crown. The name derives from the leaves, which have the shape of a sword. The leaf extends around its base before gradually turning at a point. Some cultivars can exhibit deep or thin leaves. A bunch of strains has crinkled edges and clearly defined waves! A healthy plant will have dark green leafy stems. Any red patches or brown marks show the plants lack nutrients. The plants are healthy and will need excellent condition.

Benefits of having it in your tank

These plants will offer loads of nourishment to tank dwellers. Most aquarists plant it in the background. Amazon’s swords have a positive effect on waters. It absorbs carbon dioxide in water and creates oxygen for your fish. These plants may help to control nitrogenate levels and to reduce ammonia levels. They are used by fauna as a place to explore, hide and even reproduce. The plants can also be used as a focal point or background plants to create a dense jungle of vegetation.

Problems associated with Amazon Sword Plant

Leaves of the Amazon Sword Plant are highly susceptible to algae growth, especially if there is excessive light and adverse water conditions. Leaves forming yellow are symptomatic of an iron deficiency in plants. Algae-eating species like Amano shrimp, nerite snail, and Otocinclus catfish are great additions to the tank. When these parts of vegetation rise above the surface, the plants can become reddish-gray. There needs plenty of moisture. Cover tanks and plant a well to prevent drying.

Tank Mates

Amazon Sword Plants are unheard of any fish cutting plants or consuming leaves. Those fish more prone to attack it are chinchins, plecos, and goldfish. Choose a peaceful tank mate that will not cause plant harm. Larger fish are usually easier to use because they prefer to use the plant as shelter instead of food. Small creatures like shrimps and snails are suitable for these types, along with smaller fish. Some good amazon tank mates are snails, shrimp, and snails. An Amazon Sword can withstand many environments, but hungry fishes will be another case.

Water and Tank Parameters

Amazon Sword Plants are amphibious species that are growing underwater in one or both conditions. For best results, a loose substrate and iron-rich fertilizers should be used. The plants need at least 2 Watts per gallon of full-spectrum lighting (5000-67000K2). The temperatures in the aquarium should be about 72° – 82°F, with Alkali levels of a maximum of 7.5. Sword plants can make great points of interest when used together. If used in group settings, the flowers interest the background when growing them with other aquarium plants. Estimated shipping sizes: Regular: 6″ x 9″.

Size & Growth Rate

Amazon Sword Plants are found in a well-established aquarium. New growth occurs continuously and makes the plant more straightforward to maintain than others aquarium plants species. Leaves typically range in length over twelve inches in diameter. Amazon swords are designed to grow beyond 20 inches within a large freshwater tank. If you don’t trim the blade, an Amazonsail can overgrow over smaller tanks easily. It is very vulnerable if it becomes too big for larger tanks. The Amazon’s sword can reach about 19 inches in a larger freshwater tank.

Tank Size

Amazon Sword Plants can grow into small 12-gallon buckets. An aquarium of this site is not enough to give the plant its full power. In addition, we recommend using Amazon swords in tanks that hold about 20 gallons or more. Larger freshwater tanks provide more excellent vertical room for leaf growth. If the space is smaller, your plant will require periodic trimming. A large aquarium can hold more space for growing without overcrowded all the inhabitants in the tank. It can grow partially submerged so that you can limit it to extend outside the size of your standard tanks.

Supplements

The Amazon Sword Plants require zero CO2 for healthy growth. Supplementation should keep an attractive green color and maintain a healthy leaf structure. Fertilizer applications also depend on the tank layout. Even if the substrate is rich in nutrients, this can provide sufficient nutrition. In some cases, the plant won’t perform well in a tank without fertilization. So, you’ll have to add some from time to time to maintain a regular growth rate and overall good health. A high CO2 and copper concentration (most fertilizers contain copper concentrations) are extremely dangerous for shrimp. If you keep shrimp in the Amazon Sword water tank, I highly recommend reading our other articles.

Substrate

Amazon Sword Plant grows best on a loosely packed substrate or a suitable alternative like aquarium gravel. The selected submerged substrates should have depths of 6-8 cm at the base of the tank. Amazon Sword Plant is a heavy feeder. Sometimes plants can out-compete them and choke them out. Sometimes they put the pot into decorations to prevent the plant from actually taking all the tank. If you have gravel or sand, there’s still a way to keep Amazon swords. However, using root screws will not ensure proper nutrition for plants.

Tank requirements

This species comes in a highly diverse bioregion in the Amazon River basin. The tropical habitat provided an excellent nutrient-rich substrate for growth. The ideal range of temperature is 80-78 °F. Acidity is neutral, and pH should not exceed 7.5. The substrate is probably some of the most significant considerations for Amazon Sword Plants (as mentioned in the substrate section above) – ensure that it’s at least 2.5 inches thick. Water hardness 8 to 12 dGH is perfect.

Lighting

Choose full-spectrum light that provides roughly one watt or more watts for a gallon of water. It’s one way of trying to give just the appropriate light for Amazon swords. Too much will cause the algae to grow on the leaves, but too little could cause health problems. Insufficient light could cause discolorations due to the lack of photosynthesis. Follow a standard day/night cycle and refined the lighting schedule for finding the specific parameters. Pay attention to the health and color of the plant and make adjustments to make the best of the light.

Water parameters

Amazon swords originating from Amazon rivers come from diverse environments. The search for suitable water parameters for your plant is not difficult. Amazon swords are adaptable in all circumstances and let you concentrate on the inhabitants without disturbing the plants. Although this is a hardy plant, it can be helpful to keep an eye out for water parameters. Make it a habit to use a good quality testing product to see if the tank is healthy and stable.

Amazon Sword Plants

The Amazon Sword Plants are beautiful and easy to care. There’ll also be a forest effect on your tank. It is an excellent choice for beginners and professionals aquarists. This plant can reproduce in a tank that you can share with friends and diversify other tanks with your other aquatic plants.

[Complete Guide] African Dwarf Frog : Care, Food, Tank Setup & Lifespan

Trevor Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Care Guides, Frogs (guides), Info and Tips ,
African Dwarf frog

African Dwarf frogs inhabit rivers and streams of central African countries. Their colors range from olive to brownish-green. They can be kept in community aquariums.

Caring for African Dwarf Frogs

Dwarf frogs do not live outside the water; they are entirely aquatic. These frogs are bottom scavengers, and they are the perfect choice as pets for kids just as a tool to control the fry population in the tank. We’ve composed a quick guide to keep this aquatic buddy in the best condition with full bellies. In this article, we will discuss frog feeding, tips, characteristics, and everything else.

Basic Care: African Dwarf Frog

Those frogs have to be kept in aquaria which provide at least two gallons for each frog. As the substrate, coarse gravel should be used, thus minimizing the danger of frogs swallowing it while searching for food at the bottom. The water temperatures should be between 68 and 78 degrees. These frogs will live 2-5 years or even longer with proper care.

African Dwarf frogAppearance And Size

African Dwarf frogs are a part of the Pipidae family (in the genus Hymenochirus), and they do not have any tongue or teeth; they also lack ears. To take a bite, the frogs will put food in their mouth’s throat and swallow the meal. The males have glands hidden behind their rear leg, post-axillary subdermal glands. These glands are visible externally, appearing as white or off-white dots on the skin. To navigate their environments, the animals use lateral lines to detect vibrations in the water. They use swimming membranes between the digits for swimming through the aquarium and bringing the food to the mouth.

Care, food, tank setup & life span

Africa Dwarf Frogs generally are not too demanding. They are popular aquatic frogs for several reasons. They’re active creatures, making them very enjoyable to watch. It only requires reasonable care and is easy to keep in a community tank.

About dwarf frogs

African Dwarf frogs can also be called Congo Frogs or Dwarf African Clawed Frogs. They are native to Africa, like their name implies, as tropicals animals, they require heat at their aquarium. This species is very social and should be kept in groups of at least two, of course, in a larger tank. The frogs are not hard to maintain, but you should do your research to care for them properly.

African Dwarf Frog: Expert Care Guide & Tank Set Up For

African Dwarf frogs (ADF) can be a fantastic and exciting pet that will give you hours of entertainment. There is no other way; setting up your tank and ensuring it will take good care of ADF is essential.

Breeding

Breeding this species is relatively easy. If you provide a good diet and a healthy environment, ADF’ll grow naturally without disturbance. A rich diet containing alive/frozen bloodworms, blackworms, and daphnia would help to induce spawning. They show interesting behavior in the courtship process. The male makes sounds to attract the female. The pair’s initial embrace is known as the amplexus. Eggs should reach the hatching stage in one week. Tadpoles remain on the surface for another week, during which time you can feed them small pieces of food or small food items like infusoria. After some months (around 9, usually), they will metamorphose into adult frogs.

Spawning

To encourage frogs’ growth, they must simulate a drought cycle – flood cycle. Males will frequently go to the water’s surface and “sing” or “hum”. After finding the female, the attachment occurs (amplexus); males will grip the female around the waist in front of her hind legs. The female swims to the top of the tank and then pulls the male to release the eggs. The male then releases sperm in the water, which is the fertilization procedure. You’ll need two separate tanks to put in the tadpole. Nothing fancy, a 10 gallon with a heater and a filter is okay.

Raising eggs

Keep your fish tank around 78°F. It is best to have a bare bottom aquarium without decoration; in this way, maintenance becomes more straightforward and the recognition of dirt. It’s critical to maintain the water in good and stable conditions. The eggs will hatch in about 2-7 days and free-swimming five days later. If they’re large enough, they can also start eating things like frozen daphnia and brine shrimp. The tiny tadpole is very sensitive to poor water conditions. Frequent water changes can clean up waste and maintain healthy conditions. Please remove the frogs or eggshells to prevent the parents and other fish from eating the egg or fry.

How often and how much to feed ADF

A little debate exists whether or not to feed an African Dwarf frog at least once a day. It is usually recommended that you provide a frog as much as they can eat for 10-20 minutes. Don’t leave leftover food in the tank so it will rot in your tank, polluting the water. If you have leftover food, decrease the food offered or proceed with more significant water changes. You have to go through the test and error period to determine what works best for you and your frogs.

African Dwarf Frog Diet and Feeding

African Dwarf frogs are omnivorous semi-scavengers, meaning that they’ll eat pretty much anything, dead or alive. Try to keep a varied diet to get all the vitamins essential for a healthy frog. There are plenty of prepared foods that can be considered to be part of the diet. When they’re young, you can feed your frogs twice daily; however, you may have to decrease their intake as they get older. It would be best to provide them small bites and only feed them items that can easily be consumed for 10 minutes. Do not overfeed as this can cause weight gain and decrease the water quality. If your frog was not well-fed and was particularly hyperventilating, you could use a tweezer to force-feed the animal.

African dwarf frog diet

African Dwarf frogs are carnivorous amphibians that need a dietary supplement of protein. For pet nutrition, freeze-dry foods such as mosquito larvae and worms like bloodworms and white worms ensure good health. Just throwing food in the tank will usually not suffice because the frogs probably won’t eat it. Target feeding is an alternative: place food near the frog using a turkey baster or a pair of tongs and ensure that the food is eaten. Young ones can be feed daily, but adults that are feed daily can get fat, keep an eye for your pets’ health.

African dwarf frog requirements

African frogs are messy eaters and need lots of water for swimming. It’s a social animal that should be kept in groups of three. Because this amphibian has to swim to the surface to breathe the air, a more extended tank is preferable to a taller tank. These frogs prefer a habitat with quiet water and plenty of leaves able to provide enough cover. Avoid powerful water flow and use living plants for the benefit of ecosystems. Because small and medium-sized gravel might get eaten accidentally and damage the intestinal tract, providing a bare bottom or using large gravel is best.

Habitat and tank requirements

African Dwarf frogs are found in tropical forests in the freshwaters of Nigeria, Cameroon, and Gabon up into the Congo river basin. Light is essential; they are nocturnal and are used to a 10-12 hour cycle of light and darkness. As with all fish and pets, it makes sense to start properly projecting the tank before buying the fauna.

Water parameters for African dwarf frogs

It would be best to keep the individual needs of African Dwarf frogs in mind when choosing a tank for their habitat. ADFs live their entire lives underwater, but they have lungs and breathe oxygen. They have to come to the surface to breathe. Even though they spend almost all of their life in water, ADFs don’t dare good swimmers. Larger tanks will allow for easier maintenance of the water quality.

Equipment

The African Dwarf frog requires a heat source that keeps the aquarium constant at least 78 degrees F. The tank should have a filter system for controlling the water free of toxic nitrogen; the flow rate should be very gentle. For partial water changes, you can use a bucket and a dirt vacuum. You should keep and use a test kit so that you can check the water quality of your dwarf frog tank. If you are using tap water, use a water conditioning when filling up the frog tank.

Aquarium water test supplies

In aquariums, the water can become toxic to frogs. Aquarium water test kits provide more accurate results. Water wouldn’t have been necessary to be changed daily, but you will never know if it needs to be changed without testing it.

Substrate

There’s still debate about what kind of substrate to keep within your African Dwarf frogs tank. Some people think that use sand will hurt them. Many people maintain ADFs on stone or sand substrate without problems, but a lot of other people have trouble. I do recommend you use bare bottom or large gravel or stone as substrate.

Aeration

Aquarium air pumps and an air stone will help keep the water of your frog tank healthy. Aerobic bacteria grow in aquatic water thanks to their aeration. I also like aerating ADF tanks because the amphibians enjoy chasing the bubbles. Aeration will also help with the aquarium’s gas exchange, bringing more uniform and continuous oxygenation.

Rooted plants

One of my favorite native habitats for ADF is the Java fern. It is inexpensive and easy to care for, and many animals like to use it as a hide. You can also attach a hornwort plant to a rock or a suction cup and anchor them to the bottom of the tank. Plants that live on the surface of the water are welcome, helping to create covered areas. Other plants with stems can also be used; you can use pots with substrate inside the aquarium, bringing more security to the frogs. In addition to providing shade and microfauna that can be used as food by the aquarium inhabitants, the plant will also help maintain the excellent water quality.

Floating plants

Even if you do not intend to put in the tank anything with fixed roots, then maybe put some hornwort plants on the surface of the water of your tank. These absorb ammonia, nitrates and help to keep your tank water “clean”. Hornwort even grows without proper care and does not need unique lights.

Light

Africa’s dwarf frogs need regular periods of light and darkness and regulate circadian rhythms. Usually, every small aquarium light will work just fine. You might wish to use light sources for planting when you have live plants in the tanks. Preferably for low-tech plants, which do not need solid lights or constant fertilization, which can be stressful and toxic for your amphibian. If you are considering aquascapes and plants as a hobby, then perhaps you should use plant lights.

Heater

African Dwarf frogs come from quite hot climates. It would be best if you had a heater. Keeping your African Dwarf frogs at higher temperatures will help to make them more active.

Keep them together

These frogs are best kept in small groups with at least two or three specimens. They are exceptionally social animals and are usually held together in small communities.

Filter and lighting considerations

African frogs are not attuned to strong currents. You need to provide good lighting for ten to twelve hours each time. Standard aquarium light goes well for ADFs. African Dwarf frogs use that light to stay on a healthy schedule. The amount of light should be enough to keep the frogs happy, and with some dark spaces, all day.

A tank cover with no openings

African Dwarf frogs are fully aquatic, which means they must live on the water. After 15-45 minutes of being out of the water, they will quickly dehydrate and die. Almost all tanks have openings in the lid for the filter, oxygen lines, and wiring huge enough for our frogs to crawl through. Keep the tank lid completely closed, with no gaps, as the frogs will try to climb, and if they manage to get out of the tank, they will die.

African Dwarf Frog Care

Your frogs may be a dangerous problem, they are not venomous, but these amphibians carry many bacteria species, usually found on the skin and in feces. Avoid touching the frog. Use an aquarium net to handle them. Do not put anything sharp in tanks since these have pretty sensitive skin. If you suspect dropsy contact a veterinarian who specialized in amphibians. As long as your frog stays at high water and food quality, you will have no problems.

Tank Size For African Dwarf Frogs

African Dwarf frogs are not very large, so it’s unnecessary to make considerable investments in huge high-tech tanks. ADF are very social animals who love to live with their friends. I would recommend getting a tank of at least 300 liters and storing at minimum three to four frogs.

African Dwarf Frog Tank Mates

They have no other natural protection than hiding. Your ideal candidates when deciding on tank mates are snails and small calm community fish. I do not even recommend mixing red cherry shrimp and ADF. Adult female cherry shrimp might be okay, but older shrimp might end up being a fun treat for the frogs. Other species of shrimp are usually larger but must be large enough to not look like food.

African Dwarf Frog Behavior

People often don’t understand what’s happening when frogs are locked in an embrace and standing somewhere in the aquarium for a day or two; this is normal behavior for the frogs and indicates they are mating. The frogs do the things that nature has called. It would help if you were sure that there is enough space to start raising tadpoles. Additionally, any fish that is in the tank with the frog might be exposed to danger. Although adult frogs often coexist quickly with docile fish, most fish will try to eat the frog eggs.

Are African dwarf frogs suitable for you?

There’s no arguing that African Dwarf frog is a super cool little pet that provides lots of fun. I would advise you to keep them in a 50-gallon tank to keep a large group. Frogs are sensitive to water temperatures and pollutants and should be regularly maintained for proper filtration and maintenance. It helps to periodically change the water and offer high-quality food for your frogs. Put it with non-aggressive tankmates in the same place. Do not be afraid to stuff them in a tank so large.

Can you care for an African dwarf frog?

African giant frogs could live for at least five years. You must be ready to buy the best equipment you need, even if it is costly. You also have to take care of them practically every day. African Dwarf frogs can live in the wild for up to five years.

Hiding places

Knowing how to hide from predators is the only choice for African Dwarf frogs survival in the wild. If you aren’t giving your ADFs something to hide, they will be so stressed out that they could even die of anxiety. Many aquarium decorations make excellent hiding spots for ADF. Be wary of painting or glazing in ornaments. Make sure it’s toxic-free.

Potential health problems to be aware of

Africa’s dwarf frogs have many potential health problems. Bacteria can irritate eyes and skin, causing redness. Some species can also suffer from fungal infections. It would help if you separated frogs in hospital tanks as the disease can go out from one tank to another. If left without proper care, dropsy risks killing the frog unless he finds out what caused it. Stress and bloating may be considered to be prime symptoms of this condition.

Are they compatible with Bettas?

It depends primarily on your betta’s temperament. Some are incredibly aggressive, while most others don’t bother or mess with anyone. If a Betta becomes aggressive, they will probably bully the frog and eventually kill them. If you’re going to fill your tank with the two in question, you should watch them closely. Whenever one of the frogs can be added to a tank, always check if it is compatible with the other inhabitants.

Avoiding a common mistake

The African Dwarf frogs are highly similar to African Clawed Frogs. The differences between the two species are apparent. They both look completely different, with different eyes and noses. African Dwarf frogs have webbed feet at the sides of their legs and long claws at the back feet. African claw frogs have distinct finger and claw limbs that are used for swimming. The African Dwarf frog has a more pointed snout and eye on the front of its head with a high eye position similar to that of the African Clawed frogs

Can you hold an African dwarf frog?

Like terrestrial frogs, the aquatic frog is a skilled jumper. They will soon die and evaporate without adequate humidity levels to survive. It would be best if you always used an aquarium lid to prevent frogs from going out of the water. They are amazing animals, but you shouldn’t handle them.

The average life span of an African dwarf frog

A typical African Dwarf frog‘s lifespan is five years. The lifespan is highly variable based on the level of care and their health history.

Wrapping it Up

We hope you found this guide onAfrican Dwarf frog care useful. Good luck with the new addition to your tanks!

[Care Tips] The 20 Best Algae Eaters For Your Freshwater Tank

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Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank

Each algae eater has a unique mouth shape that is suitable to eat several different types of algae. Ensure that your Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank is in its most healthy condition with supplemental nutrients and the appropriate lighting. Do some maintenance work before you add them. Think about adding more algae eater critters to the aquarium to keep the types of algae out of the tank. Check out some awe-inspiring algae-eating animals.

What is an algae eater?

The term algae eater is used to describe species that feed on algae either exclusively or in part of their natural feed. An algae eater can be a species of animal or even an invertebrate like snails or shrimp. Some algae eaters ate particular types of algae, and others grazed much more knowingly on numerous different species. Some may consume plants in aquariums. The algae eater fish, also known as the cleaning crew, can avoid algae in the water.

The Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank

Algae eaters have been a part of aquarium-keeping hobbies for centuries because they provide a vital balance to the natural habitat that every one of us is trying to recreate. Bristlenose Plecos are healthy algae-eating fish that can tolerate the most peaceful tankmates. Cherry Shrimp are easily one the Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank in the area and relatively easy to care for. Malaysian Trumpet snail can eat out all algae in your tank. Algaes can quickly take all of your tanks if you are unable to control them properly. Read this article and learn more about keeping freshwater algae cleaners crew for your tanks. Best Algae Eaters

Types of freshwater algae

Algae is the catch term of vegetable aquatic organisms which convert sunlight into food by photosynthesis. Algae may be single or multicellular organisms (seaweed is a kind of algae) or grows as a biofilm in a protein matrix with microbes. There are different kinds of algae, but its growth is a symptom of something out of balance in the aquarium. Generally, high nutrients due to poor maintenance, or overpopulation, or inconsistent sizing of filtering or lighting cause their population to boom. Depending on the type of something, it can be challenging to control. The problem must be identified and managed from its onset through periodic maintenance and mechanical removal; in severe cases, chemical treatment can be applied.

The complete list

Many hobbyist aquariums have Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank to keep their tanks healthy, with no overpopulation of algae on the walls and equipment inside the aquarium. Most people generally don’t know about what algae-eaters are associating it with a few prevalent algae. Instead, “algae eaters” should be taken to understand a rather large group of fish and invertebrates who have their own specific needs for your tank species. The algae-eating group is small with its particular dietary demands. Find out how the best freshwater Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank work to clean our aquariums.

Best Algae Eating Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

We have a wide variety of algae-eating shrimp species, some more selective than others in terms of algae type for eating. Freshwater shrimp are also a favorite food for much freshwater fish. Red cherry shrimps are known as shrimp species that consume the most different types of algae. The only downside is that they are very tiny and easily preyed upon by other animals – keeping them in your tank can be difficult. If the shrimp do not have enough hiding places, it’s probably not going to last long in an open environment.

The best algae-eating snails

Best Algae Eaters

Snails are not the best algae eater available in the fishkeeping hobby, but they are a good choice. You can also use some snails to manage algae explosions. In the last few years, demand has increased for freshwater snails as humans have become more open about keeping snails as pets.

Hillstream Loach

Best Algae Eaters

Hillstream loaches (of the genus Sewellia) are a very different-looking algae suckling organism in aquariums. The body of a hillstream loach is surprisingly flat, which gives it a like alien appearance; they also look like stingrays. This helps the fish stay attached to rock and wood even where there are high flows of water. Wild animals fed in flowing, rapid waters in tropical rain forests, which are full of oxygen. In-home aquaria water flow typically tends to be much lesser than in the biotope. A good vegetal-based diet is crucial for good health; supplement the feed with spinach leaf and other vegetables. They will eat every piece of green algae in the tank.

Reticulated Hillstream Loach

Best Algae Eaters

It reaches 3 inches across and looks like a miniature stingray encrusted with contrasting shades of gold and a black outline. Use their powerful gripping abilities to eat algae and quickly clean large, flat surfaces like vertical aquarium walls, rocks, and plant leaves. Think of them as your window cleaner for diatoms and other flat types of algae. Many hillstream and river loaches varieties, including Sewellia lineolata, Beaufortia kweichowensis, and Gastromyzon cyntha. Keep it in warmer water with stable pH and high-quality water. Feast it with high-quality plant-based sinking food.

Mystery Snail

Best Algae Eaters

Mystery apple snail (Pomacea brigesii) is one under-explored algae eater. While it is dark at night, the snails seem to do nothing but eat the algae from vegetation and even glass. Mystery snails reach slightly more than 2 inches thick and provide a perfect algae eater for tanks where shrimps end eaten up by other inhabitants. Offer your snails a good food source like algae wafers – this can also help them maintain good health. A giant mystery snail is essentially kept alone in most aquariums.

Otocinclus

Best Algae Eaters

Otocinclus catfish or Otos are peaceful fish and make a suitable mate in a tank that holds other tropical fish. Otos are timid fish and should be kept in groups to reduce stress. When selecting one for a tank, ask whether the Otos exhibited are wild-caught or captive-bred. They are great algae eaters for freshwater, really enjoying eating green spot algae. Otos that survived in a shop or at a home aquarium for two weeks or more have more chance of survival. The availability of captive-bred fish is critical to preserving wild populations. In the case of Otocinclus catfish – trapping the animals in the wild often results in fish that die within days of being captured due to stress. One of the Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank.

Molly Fish

Best Algae Eaters

Mollies are popular livebearers from the Poecilia genus that live in whole fresh to full saltwater in the tropics. Different Mollies can range in size from the 2-inch (5 cm) in Balloon Molly to the nearly 6-in (15 cm) in Sailfin Molly. Fish are often raised and reared in brackish water aquariums. If you spot a health problem in your newly purchased fish, he could consider adding extra calcium to help him alive. The aquarium hobby selectively breeds them into various colors, patterns, tintypes, and body shapes.

Common Pleco

Best Algae Eaters

The common pleco (Hypostomus plecostomus), which many call the quintessential algae eater, is commonly found in aquariums. It’s best to avoid common plecos unless you plan on having a giant aquarium. They’re lined in armor with small eyes, and they’re kind of like dinosaurs. If you have room, a common pleco provides an excellent source for eating the algae. They are also very opportunistic and will eat tiny fish and shrimp.

Siamese algae eater

Best Algae Eaters

The Siamese Algae Eater is one of the few fish that eat black beard algae and hair algae. The main downside of this fish is spotting the real deal as they were often mislabeled and mischaracterized at fish shops. They can be confused with other species of algae-eating fish, such as the Chinese Algae Eater, False Siamese Algae Eater, and the Flying Fox Algae Eater.

Nerite Snails

Best Algae Eaters

Nerite snails eat both algae and scavenging. They are notably handy for removing tough greenish-colored algae and others found on trees and decorations. Like all other types of aquarium snails, Nerite Snails puts white, seed-like eggs that will not hatch in freshwater unless there is an out-of-control population boom. Just don’t forget to offer additional calcium in the water and in their diet (using nano food blocks) to help with the health of the shell. There are many beautiful colors to choose from.

Florida Flagfish

Best Algae Eaters

Jordanella floridae is also known as American flagfish from its red stripes and symmetrical shoulder patches. The female resembles the US flag from its tail. This 2.5-inch (6 cm) voracious algae eater has the perfect mouth for cutting out hair algae, black beard algae, and other fuzzy algae. Flagfish may grow in calmer waters without aquarium heaters. This killifish might be the best for algae eaters for freshwater.

Bristlenose Catfish

Best Algae Eaters

Bristlenose pleco is an incredible algae eater in a freshwater aquarium and can easily clean away algae from glass decorations and driftwood. They receive this name because their foreheads are covered with fleshy branches or tentacles. They can grow six inches in length, although a significant number stays around four inches. They’ll soon outgrow many tanks; because of that, bristlenose plecos will need larger tanks when they reach full size. Juvenile bristlenose pleco is the perfect algae eater as they do not require too much space.

Amano Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Caridina multidentata is a clear-brown dwarf shrimp. These are animals that rarely eat black beard algae. Since they are small, you must buy at least four or more to cause a significant response in the algae growth. Amano shrimp will readily breed in your aquarium, but baby shrimp need to be kept in saltwater. For a detailed description of their protection requirements, read the complete species profile on this site.

Cherry Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) is a freshwater shrimp. This shrimp type is available in a wide range of colors. Cherry shrimp are excellent Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank. A large group of them could quickly clean small tanks. The hardiest part for keeping this shrimp is picking suited tank mates because many fish view them as food items.

Rosy Barb

Best Algae Eaters

The rosy barb (Pethia conchonius) eats fuzzy hair, algae-like staghorn, and thread algae. This relatively peaceful fish measures 7 cm long and is available in others varieties, like long-fin and albino. As a schooling fish, it is best when kept in a group of at least four individuals.

Ghost Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Ghost Shrimp are not as efficient as Cherry or Amano shrimp, but they enjoy eating hair-like algae in reasonable amounts. They are tiny, generally growing to only one inch in length, and bigger fish will eat them. Ghost shrimp are often sold as live fish food. If you want to keep ghost shrimp, you will need to have a place there to hide out from predators. It can be found easily where the Ghost Shrimp get that name, with their almost transparent bodies.

Bamboo Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Bamboo shrimp can be found in tropical Southeast Asia and enjoy flowing water in their aquariums. They probably eat fewer algae than Cherry or Amano shrimp, but still, Bamboo shrimp have many potentials as algae eaters.

Cardinal Sulawesi Shrimp

Best Algae Eaters

Cardinal Sulawesi Shrimp (Caridina dennerli) is going global in its popularity. At 3/8″-1.5′′ maximum, this species has a small size, and the colors are much vivid than the famous Red Cherry Shrimp. They live longer than most freshwater shrimp and reach the ripe old age of two years when they are kept in fine-filtered still water with enough soft aquatic leaves to eat. They also feed on algal and microbial biofilm present in any healthy tank ecosystem means they don’t require additional food for survival. They prefer warm temperatures from 78 to 88 degrees with hard pH, about 8.

False Siamese Algae Eater

Best Algae Eaters

False Siamese algae eaters require tanks of no larger than 30 gallons and prefer a pH within the range of 6.5 and 7.0, with temperatures between 75 and 79°F. It works best for those living in a small community tank where the fish have many algae to eat. It is not a bad thing for them to be given algae tablets and food supplements. These species are also quite peaceful and relatively easy to maintain, so they could be a good choice for novice aquarium hobbyists to help control algae in a new tank.

Chinese algae eater

Best Algae Eaters

Chinese algae eaters are easily maintained and operate well in tanks of 30 Gallon sizes. This animal can grow quite large – up to 10 inches, and they tend to become aggressive as it grows. It would help if you also made a place for animals to hide behind a rock cave or hollow logs. They prefer warm water temperatures, and they require a herbivorous diet. They are Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank and can be kept close by large and semi-aggressive species like cichlids. It can be a lazy eater as it grows, but they feed on different algae kids as young.

Garra (Doctor Fish)

Best Algae Eaters

These freshwater algae-eating fish are very hardy and are seen in lakes, ponds, and streams in all Middle East regions. Although garra’s cleaning of algae full aquariums is excellent, they need always to get a healthy balanced diet. Additional consumption of bloodworms or algae wafers is sure to keep your Garra healthy and happy. Garra prefers to be held in groups; 4 is the absolute minimum of individuals, so the more, the merrier! Garra is also known as the doctor fish in a spa treatment for Central and Eastern Asia. All the while, they’ll gladly take up all the loose cellular matter, including dirt and dust from your skin.

Rabbit Snail

Best Algae Eaters

The rabbit snail (Tylomelania spp.) is one of the best algae eateries around. Its shell shape resembles a corkscrew, capable of growing from up to 4 inches, and their active, curious nature makes them fascinating to observe. All colors of algae can be eaten, and also decayed plant waste. Diversify its diet by offering vegetables and herbivorous fish food.

Guppies

Best Algae Eaters

Guppies are one of the most popular fish in the aquarium hobby. Most Guppy owners never think they are algae eaters once they are acquired. Guppy keepers groups who don’t want their aquarium to turn into infinite hospital maternity. Aquarists often will buy only one female fish or only males. Guppy fish are also prolific breeders and are sometimes bought only as a matter of interest for the looks and temperament of their young rather than for the benefit of other fish.

Ramshorn Snail

Best Algae Eaters

The Ramshorn snails work very well at cleaning out unseen food debris and dead leaves before they can decompose. They have been safely kept with live vegetation without eating them. A small number can breed on the out-of-control scale until becoming a pest. Occasionally, you are forced to bait them with white lettuce to cut down their numbers unless you don’t mind swarms of these tiny snails nibbling on your plants. The snails suffer a terrible reputation because aquarium owners find them eating plant leaves. In reality, they only touch pieces of foliage that have fallen off the plant unless they are in an uncontrolled population explosion.

Sailfin Pleco

Best Algae Eaters

Sailfin Plecos (Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps) are one the best algae-eating fish there are. When young, these creatures are usually fed on algae and fish food. As adults, they need up to 75 gallons of clear surface. While not aggressive or territorial, these large plecos do better with equally large tankmates such as Oscars and Severums. As adults, they are also quite clumsy and will knock over plants and disturb gravel as they please, but they are not aggressive. They need algae wafers, vegetables, and tablets to take their nutrients.

Which algae eater would you choose?

There isn’t a one size fits all algae eater. The choice of species is mainly dependent on the type of fish you keep, the tank, the size, the algae that are being eliminated, and many other factors. For any peaceful community tank, there is an excellent range for Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank. However, if you like bigger, aggressive fish, you might be limited, but you still have options. Do you know what species of tank you need? What other type of animal would you keep in an aquarium? We want to learn your story. Tell us in the comment.

Now it’s time to pick your favorite!

I guess there’s something special about it when I watch these animals. Their efforts are kept focussed every time to track down algae consistently. They will wait it out till it gets algae, then they’re going straight back into work. If you have questions about other algae-eating fish or like to learn more about the species we selected, don’t hesitate to contact us via social media. We enjoy speaking to other aquarists and learning about them.

Final thoughts on algae eaters for small tanks

Different kinds of algae usually point to other disfunction of an aquarium’s ecosystem. Some algae, such as red algae, have some toxic qualities, but they are generally considered harmless. Fish, shrimp, and snails could remove algae. Some solutions may be simple. They only require minor adjustments. Sometimes, algae problems can be multi-layered. A tank owner has to experiment with several solutions before the problem can be solved.

Conclusion

In addition to the fish mentioned here, there are still many other aquatic animals that feed on algae. Numerous fish will catch algae; however, they tend to be significantly less efficient than the fish and invertebrates described above. Fortunately, some of the animals in this list can be relatively easily be found in your LFS. If you were thinking about adding Best Algae Eaters For Your Tank, hopefully, this section provided information that would help you choose the right fish.

11 Reasons Why Your Betta Fish Lying At Bottom Of Tank

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Betta Fish Lying at Bottom of Tank

The life of a betta fish can be full of many ups and downs. One moment they’re swimming happily along in their tank; the next, they’re laying on the bottom of the tank, looking sad as if to say, “I’m done with this”. It’s not uncommon to see Betta Fish Lying at Bottom of Tank, but there are some things you can do to help them out.

Betta fish make up some of the most common freshwater fish in aquariums. They are easily purchased from any local pet shop, and due to their colorful scales, they’re a popular addition to any fish tank.

However, one common problem that many betta owners come across is the fact that their fish may prefer laying on the bottom of the tank rather than swimming around.

This article covers some of the common reasons you might find your betta fish lying at bottom of tank.

Fish Diseases Causing Your Betta Fish Lying at Bottom of Tank

Betta Fish Lying at Bottom of Tank

Ammonia Poisoning

Feces, urine, and tissue excreta from fish and other organic matter are broken down into nitrogenous compounds, commonly leading to ammonia poisoning.

This ammonia poisoning, in turn, can lead to your Betta Fish Lying at Bottom of Tank. In a fish tank with biological filtration and up-to-date maintenance, this problem does not occur.

Temperature and chemical parameters can help or worsen the toxic ammonia outbreak. To avoid this, keep your tank clean, avoid over-feeding, and invest in a good filter. Perform extensive water changes whenever you can to help your betta.

Nitrate Poisoning

Betta fish with nitrate poisoning may breathe heavily and appear pale – either gray or brown. Other symptoms include loss of appetite, rapid gill movement, acting dazed and confused, disorientation, and laying at the bottom of the tank.

Verify that water contains a high-level nitrate by using a proper test. If the nitrate concentration is too high, perform a significant water change and add cycled media to the tank.

Fungal Infection

Fungal infections tend to be contagious and could easily infect other inhabitants of the tank. Infections of this type are usually a symptom of something wrong in the tank, usually bad water conditions.

This causes a drop in the immune system of the betta fish and an entry to harmful fungi and bacteria. To treat a fungal infection, ensure that the betta fish has perfect water parameters and conditions, and consider using an anti-fungal medication.

Salt baths are often a helpful complement to this treatment to prevent Betta Fish Lying at Bottom of Tank.

Betta Fish Tail or Fin Rot

Betta Fish Diseases - Tail or Fin Rot

Betta fish fin rot is a bacterial infection caused by Pseudomonas bacteria. The infection causes soreness and inflammation to the betta fin tissue, leading to decay and deterioration of the affected parts.

Like fungal infections, this fin rot is a symptom of a problem in the tank, usually with the water conditions. Thus, fin rot is mostly seen among long-finned or show-quality betta fish with poor water quality, aren’t fed appropriately for their size, or are otherwise under stress.

This disease can be very serious if left untreated, as it can spread into other areas of the body (such as your fish’s gills) if not caught early on. To make matters worse, when you notice the decaying fins, the disease has already reached an advanced stage.

Make sure to maintain ideal water parameters and change the water regularly. Pet stores have medications for these conditions. There are also natural remedies you can try at home as a compliment.

Treating this will help prevent the Betta Fish Lying at Bottom of Tank.

Betta Fish Fin Rot Symptoms And Treatment

Treating Illnesses in the Aquarium

There are several stages with betta fin rot. First, the betta fish becomes apathetic and loses appetite, then starts to hang around the bottom, and its fins will turn white at the ends.

As symptoms develop, the fins start to melt away, and the rot accelerates toward the body. Your betta fish could lose some of its ability to swim and end up landing on the substrate. At this point, the disease has reached a very advanced stage and is likely fatal.

How to Treat Betta Fish Fin Rot Naturally

Remove Infected Fish

Remove your fish from the aquarium and place it in a QT tank or bowl with the same water conditions as your main tank. If you have other fish, place them in a QT tank too.

Do not let the sick betta come into contact with healthy fish since this is an infectious and transmissible disease. Add some aquarium salt to reduce stress on your fish during its recovery period.

Treatments such as Kanamycin (or another antibiotic) are very harmful to the environment, so try treating naturally first before resorting to medications.

If noticed early enough, the disease can be controlled by feeding and constant water change. If you are treating your fish with medications, follow all directions carefully and do not over-medicate.

Aquarium Treatment

Treat the aquarium with a natural remedy like BettaZing or Bettafix to eradicate Pseudomonas bacteria. This will help prevent the disease from spreading while you work on getting rid of it in your sick betta fish.

To kill off any bacteria, you can also add some essential oils to the tank-like peppermint, lemongrass, rosemary, or tea tree. Make sure to control the water conditions, as these remedies will be rendered ineffective by improper conditions.

Fish Treatment

Apply a home remedy such as Melafix on the affected fins every 12 hours (or according to directions). The medication will reduce inflammation and help damaged tissues heal faster. You can also maintain a 0.3% salinity to soak the fish’s fins for an added boost to aid in the healing process.

Clean the Tank

Keep the tank clean and free from diseases

Remove any uneaten food from your betta’s bowl daily so that it does not pollute the water with bacteria. Clean contents of bowl or QT tank completely once you notice fin rot symptoms appear again. Make sure to have a maintenance routine to keep everything consistently in order.

Good Food

Offer your fish a nutritional diet full of protein and Omega-3 fatty acids like Spectrum pellets, blood worms, or brine shrimp. Fresh veggies such as green beans are also beneficial to helping your betta recover from this disease. Food variety and quality is the secret to speeding up the healing process.

Quarantine New Fish

Isolate any new bettas that you add to the aquarium if they bring their own internal bacterial infections. It’s always a good idea to quarantine newly acquired fish before placing them in the main tank.

Betta Fish Fin Rot Prevention

Clean your aquarium thoroughly 

This will ensure that you’re starting off with a clean tank for when you get your new betta fish. Also, be sure to use a good quarantine method so that any diseases that new fish might be carrying are not transferred to your other fish during this process.

Change 20-30% of the water every week

It is important for the health of all living things in your aquarium to change the water regularly. This will help remove any excess waste and keep everything running smoothly. Use a gravel cleaner to suck out the waste and other debris that has settled into the bottom of your tank. Pay special attention to decorations where waste can be trapped.

Don’t overfeed your fish. If the filtration system is not up for it, and you do not keep up with maintenance, overfeeding will lead to bacterial build-up in the tank, which is not good for the fish.

Additionally, do not feed fish expired food, as it can carry pathogens and will not provide adequate nutrition, depressing the fish’s immune system.

Keep water condition up

Make sure you keep your water’s ammonia and nitrates down with weekly water changes. Don’t overcrowd the tank. Overcrowding stresses the fish and causes rapid deterioration of water quality, both of which are dangerous for the fish.

Betta Fish Swim Bladder Disorder

The swim bladder disease is any condition in which fish will never properly float or fall while swimming. This condition alters the swim bladder that provides betta fish with buoyancy underwater.

In medical terms, the fish is suffering from both positive and negative buoyancy.

Swim bladder disorder can be caused by a number of issues, including digestive problems, genetics, and physical trauma.

 Symptoms and Treatment for Swim Bladder Disorder

Swim bladder disorders have traditionally occurred in adult betta fish. The principal danger factor is weight. Fish can often live long periods of time with the swim bladder disorder as long as they can properly feed themselves and do not have any other medical problems, depending on the cause and stage of the disorder.

The disorder can be treated with Epsom salts and by piercing the bladder with a needle. Consult with a vet who could give you advice.

Swim Bladder Disease

Swim bladder disease has often been the result of improper feeding. To protect and improve the health of fish with swimming bladder disease, give them small slices of blanched green pea fronds or daphnia.

When the fish recovers, it should return to swimming in a normal manner. Epsom salts and piercing the bladder with a needle are effective treatments for swim bladder disease. This treatment may help prevent the Betta Fish Lying at Bottom of Tank.

Ich (white spot disease)

Betta Fish Fungal Disease

Ich (Ichthyophthirius multiplefiliis) is a protozoan and exists in many aquariums and ponds. A healthy fish’s antimicrobial response wards off ich.

A stressed fish, however, is more susceptible to ich. Infrequent water changes, improper water temperatures, and poor diet can severely weaken a fish’s immune system.

In fact, one of the main triggers of this disease is the fluctuation of physical water parameters. For treatment, quarantine your betta in another tank and raise the temperature to approximately 84° F for 14 hours.

This will break the parasite’s reproductive cycle, eradicating the ich. In cases of serious infestation, medication can be used.

Ich Symptoms and Treatment

The first signs of trouble are small white dots that appear on the head in an overnight pattern around your Betta’s gills, body, and/or fins. Fish may later have skin ulcers.

Aside from the white dots, other signs of the disease are haemorrhages and subsequent bacterial and fungal invasion, weight loss, and excessive mucus production.

Quarantining fish is an important prevention method. When one fish becomes infected, begin treating the entire tank.

Betta Fish Lying at Bottom of Tank Due to Old Age

Old bettas have more of a tendency for slowing down. Most older fish prefer resting more. They may begin to lie down on leaves or rest on the bottom of the tank.

Constipation

If your Betta fish is kept in cold water, its heart rate, growth speed, immune response, and digestion start dropping. Bloating is often mistaken for swimming bladder illness resulting in bladder infection in some patients. Warming up as soon as possible and properly feeding will keep the fish healthy.

Popeye

Betta Fish Popeye

Popeye is a symptom of an aggravated bacterial infection on your betta fish. The main symptom is a protruding, swollen, and strange-looking eye due to excess fluid in the eye sockets, which exert pressure and force the eye to protrude more than normal.

A whitish color around the eye is another common sign. Treatment for any injured or sick fish depends on the circumstances. You should remove your fish from its tank and administer ampicillin and aquarium salt to the aquarium.

Cold Temperatures

Betta fish are tropical fish found in small canals in Thailand where water temperatures seldom lower than 73-75°F. If you use the mini heater in the betta’s basket or tank, you can see immediate change. It should perk up quickly more, eat more and be less prone to illness and lethargy.

It’s better to see it around 25-30° C degrees! Use a heater to warm up your jug or pot and help your fish’s appetite.

Filter Current Is Too fast

Large fins make swimming in turbulent waters much complicated. Betta fish prefer slower water flows. If your betta appears less active and enjoys sitting on the bottom of its tank, adjust the filter’s water flow in this manner.

You could possibly use a low-cost sponge filter for smaller fish tanks measuring around 3 to 5-gram volumes.

For larger tanks, including larger fishes such as bettas and other small-scale community fish with large bodies, a good option is the AquaClear Power Filter 50. Tank divider sets are cheap and provide you the perfect flow baffle and attachment points on the baffle.

Low Dissolved Oxygen

Unlike most fish, betta fish, and her cousins, the Gouramis have a specialized organ called the labyrinth organ. This allows them to breathe directly from the atmosphere as we get extra oxygen from the gills.

In the still, hot weed-choked waters of their native Thailand, they can thrive where other fish would suffocate for lack of oxygen present. The anaerobic bacteria release harmful substances that inhibit them, like hydrogen sulfide, if there is no oxygen in their system, preventing their growth. Thus, oxygenation is very beneficial for bettas.

Water Too Hot

Oxygen becomes less soluble at higher water temperatures. Without oxygen, betta fish will gulp for air below the tanks. Even as they breathe atmospheric air, it is important that they never lose access to adequate oxygen. Cool down your tank’s temperatures slowly with a fan or room air conditioner.

Use an air bladder to infuse oxygen into your water quickly. Another option is to use thermal insulation so the temperature in the aquarium remains stable.

Water Too Cold

Bettas thrive well in waters 25-30° C. For heaters, 1.5-2 W per liter works well for places with very low temperatures, whereas in milder places, 0.5 W per liter will do the job.

Small Aquarium Size

If the fish seems restricted then, you are in need of choosing a larger aquarium. Bettas enjoy swimming in a horizontal place such as shallow rice fields with a nice hideout space.

Confined environments result in lazy and lethargic betta fish; it also stresses the fish and shortens their lifespan. A 10 or 20-gallon tank with a filter is ideal for keeping betta fish healthy and well.

You can also add more fish to larger tanks than just bettas, as long as they are calm fish and there are plenty of hiding places.

Treating a sick Betta Fish

When quarantining fish, remove any plants from the quarantine tank. This will keep the medication from damaging plants.

Sleeping Betta Fish

A betta with a good appetite often takes naps. If you aren’t sure whether your betta is simply tired, observe the fish closely for a few days and watch for any signs of stress or illness.

Bettas sleep at night in the dark. Bettas usually sleep in the dark, so lying on the bottom in the light is likely not sleeping.

What can you do to help your betta fish lying at bottom of tank who is sick?

Keep a betta first-aid kit; having betta medications on hand is smart because pet stores often do not contain betta-specific medications or may be out of stock. Salt and clean water are the go-to treatments for many illnesses that bettas may have.

Other stress-related issues

By you see a betta fish floating on its side, watch it closely. If the tank is too narrow, provide a larger area. If you are unsure if this fish has microbial smears, watch very carefully and look for signs and symptoms along its length. It is also important to maintain the water temperature in the correct range.

Dropsy

Dropsy Disease in Betta Fish

Dropsy is a syndrome generated by a serious infection. Common symptoms are belly swelling, injuries to gills and intestines, bristly scales, listlessness, undulating swimming, and difficulty breathing due to tot the impediment of the free movement of the diaphragm.

Temperature balance is essential to maintain the fish’s immunity. Avoid high stocking of fish in the tank, and avoid overfeeding; excess feces and urine in the water give the opportunity for pathological bacteria to develop.

Betta hiding in the tank’s corner

Betta fish like hiding in the structure to feel secure. This often indicates stress and poor acclimation to the aquarium. Having other fish in the tank can help, including loaches, plecos, some livebearers with smaller and less colorful tails, corydoras, and others.

The fish also hide around the corner when the current is stronger than necessary. Fish also might hide in the corner when the current is too strong.

Wrapping up – Betta Fish Lying at Bottom of Tank

You have to know about your Betta Fish Lying at Bottom of Tank in order to help them. Please share this guide in order to help other aquarists become as informed as possible. It is our goal to encourage as many as possible to become informed and responsible betta owners!

Ultimate Rubber Lip Pleco Care Guide [Size, Diet, Breeding]

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Rubber Lip Pleco

Rubber Lip Pleco Care Guide & Species Profile

The following article will help you decide if the Rubber Lip Pleco is the right aquarium fish for you. You will learn about its breeding habits, diet needs, personality and tankmate compatibility with other tank mates, and more.

This information is incredibly valuable when planning to care for Rubber Lip Plecos and makes for an informative read. I will highlight the key aspects of caring for Chaetostoma sp., commonly known as Rubber Lip Plecos. This species is often confused with bristle nose plecos. However, there are distinct differences in their care requirements.

Rubber-lipped Pleco: Care and species guide for beginners.

Rubber Lipped Plecos are a pleco species that can feed on algae and also on tiny larvae. They reach the size of up to 4.7″.

Adult individuals maintain their habit of eating algae, being an excellent addition to the cleaning crew. They are fish with omnivorous eating habits; they will eat algae and small live or frozen food.

They may have some difficulty in accepting processed foods.

A short introduction to the Rubber Lipped Pleco

Chaetostoma is part of the most extensive catfish family (Loricariidae). This fish’s other common names include Black Spotted Bulldog Pleco, Spotted Rubbernose Pleco, or simply L445.

These fish have enlarged gills that are believed to work together to breathe as they rest or feed. Similarly, the Rubber Lip Pleco are frequent algae eaters under some circumstances. It is a freshwater, bottom-dweller fish of the genus Chaetostoma.Rubber Lip Pleco

Rubber-lipped Pleco: Ultimate Species Care Guide.

Small catfish, including rubber-lipped plecos, can be an excellent addition to a tropical freshwater aquarium. They are not very resistant to pollutants in the water and require high levels of O². The aquarium must be well matured; this species is not recommended for beginner aquarists.

Habitat and origins

The Rubber-Lipped pleco is found in the Apuré River and Magdalena Basin in South America. The Rubber Lip Plecos are found in several other South American rivers.

The water in certain parts of its surface drop in temperature, which can sometimes be considered a kind of milder water, somewhere around 68º F. The species is found in Venezuela, Colombia, Brazil, and the United States, where it would probably be an invasive species.

The species were found across the northern region of South America.

Habitat and tank conditions

The Rubber Lip Pleco needs specific requirements, like fast-flowing waters and large tank size; they do not thrive in any home aquarium and require some attention.

They also provide excellent tankmates for fish from fast-flowing waters, like pike cichlid and silver dollars.

Indeed a relatively easy species to find in specialized stores. A challenging pleco for more experienced aquarists, who like fast and transparent water aquaria.

Rubber Lip Pleco Diet & Food

Rubber Lip Pleco feeding

In the natural habitat, Rubber Lip Pleco‘s diet includes all types of things. They will accept and delight in fresh or live food of animal and plant origin, as well as algae and biofilm.

They can be somewhat selective in eating, presenting a particular difficulty to start accepting industrialized feeds. Offer everything the animal needs; that way, you will have a less stressed and healthier animal.

Some of our favorite vegetable options for this fish are algae powder, leafy greens, cucumbers, and peas.

Rubber lip Pleco Care

Rubber Lip Plecos care is not particularly challenging as it seems, and some aquarists may realize it soon enough.

These fish are very hardy (within their specifics) because of the varying habitat they come from. It’s always a good idea to understand the ideal conditions so you can give the most outstanding care possible. Good owners strive for perfection!

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a rubber lip pleco?

The Rubber-Lipped pleco is a bottom-dweller fish and part of the genus Chaetostoma. Plecos are a common addition to all modern home aquarium systems for helping clean the tank’s surface from algae.

Bulldog plecos have extended gills that have evolved to allow the fish to breathe while feeding or are attached to rocks.

The Rubber Lip Pleco can’t grow as big as the Common pleco and can be an excellent choice to keep it; small-sized plecos do not require giant aquariums.

How do I care for my rubber-lipped pleco?

Care for the rubber-lipped pleco is no longer difficult; after all, when we have a designed system to keep it alive and healthy, it is a rewarding and relatively simple experience. Here are their ideal conditions to keep them busy and healthy.

Is rubber lip pleco suitable for an aquarium?

Rubber Lip Pleco cleaning algae off glassRubber Lip Plecos are an excellent choice for more experienced aquarists; they need well-matured aquariums, water with medium hardness, milder temperatures, and a strong water flow.

Despite their incredibly long and impressive life spans, this can be a daunting task when you first introduce them to an aquarium.

The most important consideration should be the seriousness of your fish care.

Try to keep them away from other large bottom species if possible; this way, the pleco remains calmer, in addition to not having to share hiding places or feeding spots.

If you love freshwater aquarium plants, it might give the tank life too; choose species that adapt to the water parameters required for the fish.

Rubber lips pleco is a species with a long lifespan that can reach 12 years if kept in ideal conditions. A breeding pair can become aggressive towards other plecos during breed season.

Plecos do not eat fish poop; that’s a myth. They are a capable algae eater and easily clean an algae-infested aquarium.

Tank Mates

There is a wide range of freshwater fish who are happy to coexist with these plecos. Here’s a listing of fish living in a tank with a Rubber Lip Pleco, along with helpful information about each species. Bala sharks are peaceful, although they develop an appetite for small fish as they age.

Cory catfish are also bottom-feeder scavengers who are great at cleaning and maintaining the aquarium. Gouramis are wonderful aquarium companions because they enjoy being joined up with slow-moving fish. Plecos prefer to keep it quiet and don’t enjoy bullying. Aggressive Cichlids and Tiger Barbs can’t be tolerated.

Take care

Rubber Lip Plecos are, in general, good fish to keep. They are not particularly vulnerable to sickness, and as long as the tank is clean, you will not be faced with problems.

The periodic water change is also crucial as your tank should maintain a healthy balance to avoid diseases and intoxications. Scaleless fish are sensitive to salt in the water; thus, be careful when adding salt to treatment problems.

Go for soft, smooth pebbles or sand over gravel and sharp sand for protection of fish. Keep plastic plants at a minimum and try to keep as many live plants as possible.

Appearance

The Rubber Lipped Pleco has an iconic ”pleco” look. Their head is almost identical to those we usually expect with their pleco form.

They have an enormous mouth with a snout that descends to the top of the skull. Their eyes are situated at the top of the head. They present a slightly elevated posture.

This eye positioning allows them to watch for predators while scavenging the substrate. In addition, they also have dark circles covering their body.

Behavior & compatibility

Rubber Lipped plecos don’t like the aggressiveness of other tank mates. They all want to lie alone or sit peacefully in a cave or a hideout.

They also enjoy hiding under smooth-surfaced round rocks which resemble the bottom of a river. Rubber Lipped plecos will not bother other fish unless there are other plecos because they can be territorial.

These animals are usually nocturnal, and it’s easy for them to do little feed before the lighting goes out. They won’t be more active if anything stresses them up and are also shy in general. At night they feed on algae and biofilm.

Behavior & Temperament

Rubber Lip Pleco was peaceful and would not be any problem to other tank habitats. They are one of the most peaceful freshwater species we know of.

You’ll sometimes see them parking at one place or gradually working around a protected spot. In open areas, they use sucker lips to latch on to whatever surface they’re looking at.

It is fun to what when they are attached to aquarium glasses. You shouldn’t expect a regular swimming show, as they are shy fish. If you own a big fish with solid energy and good health, it is a good idea not to put it together with rubber-lipped plecos.

A common misconception about the Rubber Lip Plecos

Fish stores can confuse Rubber Lip Pleco with other types of plecos. What makes the differences between these species unique are their maximum density and color.

A true RL pleco will reach at least 4.5 inches in body length and not experience drastic color change. While sexually maturing, the rubber lining will shift from grey to gold color.

I hadn’t the chance to see mine turn gold like that. But it seems the fish decide when this happens and if and when. Both of these fish have similar care needs (except for tank size and flow).

Summary of species

This species can be found in the Magdalena River in Columbia and the Apure River in Venezuela and spread across the Amazon basin.

These species primarily eat algae in the wild and spends their time around the substrate since it feeds from the bottom.

This information is essential to know because it will affect their keeping in the tank. This species is relatively robust and can tolerate a decent range of water conditions in the wild.

It is also known as the rubber nose pleco, and the rubber lipped pleco is also found in smaller rivers and waters bodies and larger rivers.

Diet

Rubber Lip Plco is not too fussy eaters. They will eat almost everything that is in the water. Feeding plecos a rich and varied diet with algae, vegetables, and animal protein is essential.

You can place zucchini, peas, green beans, and spinach in the tank for your fish to chew to ensure a healthy, balanced diet. You may also occasionally offer bloodworms, tubifex, nauplii, and earthworms. Remember that the more you feed it, the more poo it will produce. Slowly try to introduce foods like algae wafers to its diet.

Going forward

These are intriguing creatures that are good enough for the proper aquatic enthusiast. If you’re searching for a unique and easy to care fish, which are not particularly popular, this could be for you.

We are dedicated to writing the best fish care guide online. We have always enjoyed the rubber nose pleco and the performance regardless of what it does.

Breeding

There are no verified reports of successfully breeding rubber lips plecos. The breeding process can be laborious for this fish, whether it’s successful or not.

It best not to try breeding this fish without being confident in the results. We would love to hear from someone who successfully bred this species, as we do wish to feature their tips in this guide.

Very rarely is breeding observed in captive conditions. Usually, a male attaches itself upside out to a flat spot beneath the surface below where the eggs hatch. This way, he can guard the fry against predators.

Mistaken identity

The Rubber Lip Pleco is sometimes confused with Rubber Pleco, Parancistrus aurantiacus. The Rubber pleco is spotless in its nose.

Juveniles can be mistaken; notice if your fish grows slowly until finally, it reaches the proper shape around five inches; around that size, the differences are evident, as the rubber lipped has black dots across the body.

The rubber pleco can transform its grayish color over its aging growth to a length extending up to 7 or 8 inches. On rare occasions, both species of fish are advertised incorrectly.

Life span

The average life span of a rubber-lipped pleco is between 10-12 years with reasonable maintenance. These assumptions assume you have provided them the ideal habitat and a good diet.

High-stress levels can have a detrimental outcome on the longevity of fish. If you pair them with the wrong tankmate, they might feel stressed and become sick or even die.

Tank setup and habitat requirements

If you have basic knowledge of this species, you can easily set up a tank for your pleco. Depending on your current setup, you may not have to make corrections before adding RL to your community tank.

Where can I buy this rare fish?

After some feedback on the site, I realized not everyone was lucky enough to find the Rubber-Lipped pleco at their fishing shop. But you can always buy it online, from reliable fish stores.

If you’re not able to find this pleco in the country you live in, you can also order them online. One place where I have discovered Rubber Lip Plecos is AquaBid, but there are other online markets that you might try.

Visit the link and read the retailers specializing in selling live freshwater fish to increase your chances of finding a live fish.

Common disease

The RL pleco, like many other plecos, is exceptionally resilient. They are susceptible to toxins and contaminants in water.

Plecos do not quickly become sick but are sensitive to specific health problems. When you notice that the white spots don’t multiply after one day, it probably wasn’t ich; if it persists, you fish possibly is a victim of ich. This ailment is often easy to diagnose and also treat.

Final thoughts

Rubber Lip Pleco does not grow as some other pleco species, making it a good choice for the home aquarium.

However, it would help not keep this animal in a tank size of fewer than 25 gallons since they need large amounts of space and water flowing. The Rubber Lip is a peaceful and magnificent algae eater in your tropical aquarium.

The 7 Best Dwarf Cichlids for Your Aquarium [complete guide]

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The 7 Best Dwarf Cichlids for Your Aquarium [complete guide]

Dwarf cichlids have big character for such tiny fish. They do well in a tropical community tank. While some species do well alone, others do best in trios or couples.

Cichlids are a group of fish that fish enthusiasts misunderstand as aggressive and territorial. This idea is why some hobbyists often do not prefer them. Cichlids are also blamed for digging up gravel and plants. Because of this, they are not as fashionable as their other fish counterparts.

Fortunately, the Dwarf Cichlids are quite different from their larger Cichlid cousins. These fish species are much less aggressive and will live harmoniously with other fish species in the same aquarium.

Another great attribute of the Dwarf Cichlids is that they do not need much care, so long as you keep them in larger aquariums. Dwarves add interest to the aquarium with their colors and character, giving hobbyists great satisfaction. Keeping and breeding the fish is an easy task.

Types of Dwarf Cichlids

There are two main kinds of Dwarf Cichlids: the African Dwarf Cichlids and the South American Dwarf Cichlids. It must be noted that these two species of fish usually require different water parameters. The African Dwarf Cichlid are generally good community fish. However, the South American Dwarf Cichlids prefer to be alone in their environment.

There are more than 90 different species of Dwarf Cichlids! In this article we have selected six of the best South American Dwarf Cichlids and one from Africa that we think are a definitely worth considering for your aquarium.

The 7 Best Dwarf Cichlids for Your Aquarium- Butterfly Cichlid

Dwarf Cichlid Color Varieties

Some of the most popular South American Dwarf Cichlids kept by hobbyists include Blue Rams, Bolivian Rams and various species of Apistogramma. Whist some species are thought to be challenging to keep, captive bred Cichlid strains are becoming more available and are well suited to aquarium life. New and appealing color morphs continue to be established by breeders.

Captive bred Cichlids have quite diverse characteristics even within the same species, featuring innumerable colors and patterns. Male Cichlids will generally have quite different color variations to females.

Cockatoos with their long striking orange and black fins and Blue Rams with blue hues and unique patterns- these will liven up your tank. Then there are the Dwarves that have gentle colors and patterns that will blend into the landscape.

Dwarf Cichlids

How Long Do Dwarf Cichlids Live?

Although the lifespan of Dwarf Cichlids can vary slightly between species, the typical life prospect of most is up to five years. However, many fish keepers report their cichlids live longer than that, with some fish living ten or more years if given optimal care and a high-quality diet.

What Do They Eat?

Feed your cichlid flakes or pelleted food. They are omnivores and thrive on a nutritious balanced fish food such as Aqueon Tropical Flakes, Shrimp pellets and foods specifically formulated for Cichlids.

Time how much food your fish eats in 3 minutes, then and feed them that quantity twice daily. Offer frozen or freeze-dried brine shrimp or bloodworms as treats.

Wild caught Cichlids can be fussy eaters and may require live foods to begin with, but eventually they will accept frozen and dry foods.

Nannacaraanomala (Golden Dwarf Cichlid)

Dwarf Cichlids

Golden Dwarf Cichlids are lovely little fish with a golden and blue colors. Their hardiness and suitability for a peaceful community tank make them an ideal choice. They should be housed in tanks of at least 20 gallons.

The male is easy to tell from the female. He will be larger with brighter colors.

Captive bred Golden Dwarf will accept just about any tropical fish food. It is important that they are given a rich nutritionally balanced food. They enjoy frozen food and freeze-dried foods too.

The Golden Dwarf Cichlid has been bred in captivity for many years. Due to them being well acclimatized to captive breeding, they are a fish that breeds readily for hobbyists.

They prefer slightly acidic water and a slightly higher temperature (than usual) when breeding. The female does become aggressive when she lays her eggs, chasing off other fish including the male Dwarf Cichlids. If in a small tank, the male should be removed.

Ensure the tank has places for the female to lay her eggs, such as caves. The eggs hatch after a few days and can be fed on newly hatched brine shrimp.

 

Egyptian Mouthbrooder (Pseudocrenilabrus multicolor)

Dwarf Cichlids

This species has been bred in captivity for over a century. They are very hardy fish and a great dwarf cichlid for beginners.

Egyptian Mouthbrooder Dwarf Cichlids accept most foods. A quality cichlid pellet/flake can be fed as staple. They also require variety, so the inclusion of live and frozen foods will keep them at their best.

This species can be aggressive towards other fish that live in the lower parts of the aquarium. If keeping them with other dwarf cichlids, catfish, and loaches, you’ll require a larger tank so they can all have territory.

In smaller aquariums, they do well with fish that inhabit the upper reaches of the tank; fish such as African tetras, hatchetfish, danios and barbs. Males are very aggressive towards each another and only one should be kept with one or more females.

Males are usually larger and more colorful than females.

The Egyptian Mouthbrooder Dwarf Cichlid is easy to breed. Being a mouth-brooder, it is enjoyable to watch them breed. Leading up to breeding feed your fish a high-quality diet of frozen and live foods. This gets them into prime breeding condition.

Ensure there are secluded areas in the aquarium for the fish to breed. When in condition, the male will dig-out a shallow pit in the gravel. He will then attempt to entice the females to spawn with him. He does this by displaying and sometimes forcefully ‘encouraging’ the females.

When willing, the female and male will tightly circle one another, and the eggs will be released. The female picks them up in her mouth. She will hold 5-100 eggs in her buccal cavity.

After ten days the brood will hatch. The free swimming fry are released by the female and can be fed on newly hatched brine shrimp, microworm and powdered dried foods.

Neolamprologus multifasciatus

Dwarf Cichlids

These attractive small fish have an enormously interesting trait; they tend to establish small territories (6” across) around large snail shells that they will defend vigorously. They will even nip fingers that get too close!

This smallest of the dwarfs, is a highly recommended species because they will entertain you with their unique territorial behaviors.

They require at least a 10 gallon (40 L) tank is needed for a colony. In their natural environment they seek out large open areas of sandy substrate where there are numerous empty shells. By replicating this, the colony will happily set up their territory in amongst these shells. The fish will landscape the area, so ensure the substrate is deep enough.

They generally accept dried foods, however, live and frozen foods will ensure they thrive and it brings them into breeding condition.

Due to their territorial aggressive manner, it is best to house a colony of these cichlids with fish that like to inhabit other areas in the aquarium.

To maintain cohesion with the colony, make sure you provide more shells than fish and keep many more females than males. Males and females look similar. Males will have a more intense color and a reddish tint to the top part of the dorsal fin.

Breeding these little fish is easy. They may breed in the community tank, but it will be more successful in a separate tank. Make sure there are plenty of shells, as the female will lay her eggs in these. They like a hard and alkaline water with a high pH of 8 to 8.5. The temperature should be 77-80°F.

Keep several females per male and space the shells out to reduce territorial aggression between the males.
Females will display in front of their shells to gain the attention of males. The female will lay her eggs in the shell, which will then be fertilized by the male.

After spawning the male plays no further role and the female will see him off. The eggs hatch after a day and become free swimming fry within a week. As the fry grow they will venture further away from the shell and eventually being chased off by the female.

Feed fry on newly hatched brine shrimp or microworm.

A colony of Neolamprologus Multifasciatus is a must for hobbyists interested in this little fish’s unusual habits.

Cockatoo Dwarf (Apistogramma cacatuoides)

Dwarf Cichlids

Being one of the most popular of the dwarf cichlids, Apistogramma Cacatuoides  are a perfect starter cichlid for beginners. They may be small in stature, but by no means small in personality. These species gets its name from their stunning cockatoo-crest-like dorsal fins.

Hobbyists have been breeding Cockatoo Dwarfs for many years and have been able to fix several different color variants.

Male and female fish are quite different in looks. The males develops an enlarged head once sexually mature. This seems to continue to enlarge throughout its life. They have huge mouths that they gape to threaten other males in their territory.

A very hardy fish that can take most water types. Heaters are even optional so long as the room doesn’t get overly cold (not below 60°F). This is not the case with their Cichlid cousins, that prefer warmer water.

Cockatoo dwarfs dwell at the bottom of aquariums. Having a longer aquarium with lots of floor area with 20+ gallons of water would suit best.

Cockatoo Dwarfs are not very picky when it comes to foods. Feed live food daily and supplement with flakes, pellet food, freeze-dried and frozen food.

To bring them into breeding condition, feed live food such as blackworm and brine shrimp.

Cockatoos are cave spawners. Ensure there are many caves in the aquarium, at least one for each female. Openings should face away from one another providing privacy.

The males will battle it out for dominance. Only the dominant males will get to breed. The dominant male will be the brightest colored of the colony and he will be proudly dancing around out in the open to impress the girls! It is best to remove the sub-dominant males from the tank during breeding, unless there is plenty of space for them to hide.

Aggressive males have been known to kill rival males. Each male should have a harem of about four females.
After courting the female lays her eggs on the inner walls of her cave. The male will then fertilize them. The caves need to be large enough to accommodate the male.

When the eggs hatch the female takes charge and herds the fry around the tank foraging for food.

The Cockatoo Dwarf are an addictive starter cichlid. You’ll be hooked by their colors and intriguing behaviors as they go about their lives in a colony.

Apistos– Apistogramma Trifasciata 

Dwarf Cichlids

Apistogramma trifasciata (Apistos) are small, brightly colored striped fish with a quiet nature, making them very suitable for a community aquarium. The Three Striped Dwarf Cichlid is one of the most brightly colored of this species.

This cichlid is not considered a fish for beginners. A tank of at least 25 gallons is recommended to keep a colony of these fish. It needs to be well planted as the Apistos requires places to hide and to establish their colony.

They require well filtered not too hard (0-12 dH) water, with a temperature of between 71-86F and pH of 5-7. With these conditions, along with a quality diet, Apistos will live five to ten years.

With a preference to inhabit the bottom of the tank, these fish do best with fish that don’t share their lower tank space. Avoid aggressive fish species, as Apistos may become their targets. The best tank mates include: Cardinal Tetras, Otocinclus Catfish, Lemon Tetras, Neon Tetras, Pygmy Corydoras and Rasboras.

Apistos are easy to breed if all their conditions are met. They like the water warm with very little flow. Like most cichlids, these fish are very protective of their eggs and fry. The females defend their nests and the male the territory.

Success with breeding will increase when using a separate breeding tank as opposed to a community tank.

Either breed in pairs, or one male with several females. Two males will fight. The female will coax the male into the breeding area where she spawns, and he fertilizes the eggs.

Once hatched the fry will eat primarily algae.

Apistogramma trifasciata are omnivores and require a balanced diet of plant based foods and protein from live foods or freeze dried foods (brine shrimp, insect larva, worms, fish fry). The food needs to be able to sink to the bottom where they live.

With a little attention to water parameters, these intriguing quiet-natured cichlids make a great addition to the aquarium.

Rainbow Krib – Pelvicachromis Pulcher

Dwarf Cichlids

We selected the Rainbow Krib, or Kribensis, to be one of our best dwarf cichlids picks. This one is not a South American species, but rather from Africa, inhabiting the shallow weedy waters of Southern Nigeria and Cameroon.

The colors on these fish are enhanced during spawning. During breeding time the female sports a striking cherry-red colored belly. Even when not spawning they are attractive fish with many colors.

Rainbow Kribs do well in community tanks, however, their tank mates need to be carefully considered. Although generally peaceful, the Rainbow Krib may nip the fins of slow moving long finned tropical fish. Being bottom dwellers, it is best to house with fish that inhabit other areas of the tank, especially other species of cichlid.

Provide several caves in the tank for the fish to select as their own. The caves should have a single entry, be dark and stable. Half ceramic flower pots and coconut shells make great caves. Being territorial, these fish will compete with other fish seeking caves.

A well planted aquarium with some open spaces is ideal for them. They like to burrow and may uproot plants. Rainbow Kibs can tolerate a wide range of water conditions.

Rainbow Kribs are omnivorous and will happily eat flake or pellet food. Supplement their diet with live or freeze dried foods of shrimp, brine shrimp, daphnia, mosquito lava and bloodworms.

Females are smaller than males and develop the bright red spot on their stomachs when in breeding condition. Males are longer and thinner and less colored.

If you decide to breed this species, it is best to do so with them in their own tank. Males become very aggressive whilst spawning and when caring for the fry. Offer several caves for breeding and make sure the substrate gravel is fine (under 3mm). Fry and eggs get lost in larger gravel.

Condition the pair of cichlids with a generous diet that includes live foods. The female will display her red-cherry abdomen when she is ready to spawn. She will embark on an enticing courtship display. She may become aggressive as well during this time.

The pair will dig the gravel beneath the cave when preparing to spawn. 200-300 eggs will be laid. The female will stay in the cave with eggs, then fry until the fry are free swimming. The male will defend the territory. When leaving the cave, the fry will stick to their parents closely.

Feed free swimming fry newly hatched brine shrimp and finely crumbled flake food. The parents (or may only be one parent as they may begin to fight) will remain with the fry for 2-4 weeks.

Maybe this hardy African dwarf cichlid is the one for you. Easy to keep and breed and fun to watch!

Yellow Dwarf – Apistogramma borellii

Dwarf Cichlids

 

Apistogramma borellii or Yellow Dwarf Cichlid (Umbrella Cichlid) enjoys a well-planted aquarium with good depths and plenty of caves. They are peaceful, hardy and are tolerant to a wide range of water conditions. The Yellow Dwarf are an ideal choice for beginners due to their peaceful nature, hardiness and easy mix within a community tank.

Males grow to around 3 inches, and females 2 inches. Being mostly carnivorous, they require a diet rich in live and freeze-dried foods.

These small fish are compatible with most non-aggressive fish. Great tank mates include barbs, danios, tetras, live bearers.

They can take a wide range of water conditions, however, to be ideal a temperature of 75 – 81F, a pH of 5.0 – 7.0 and a water harness of between 1 – 10 dGH.

The female is more colorful than the male, yet the finnage of the male is somewhat more spectacular.

This species dwells near the bottom of the tank, requiring a substrate they can sift through and burrow into. Hobbyists will enjoy watching them excavating their territories using their mouths. The downside is they tend to dig up plants (use deep rooted plants and weighted stones and driftwood to hold them down). They like the shade of floating leaves and are used to tannins in creeks and rivers. So floating Indian Almond Leaves helps with providing a natural environment for them.

The Yellow Dwarf Cichlid is a harem species where several females live in a colony with one male. They make excellent parents to a brood of fry. The female will tend to the brood, whilst the male protects them and defends the territory.

During breeding the male becomes very territorial. 50-100 eggs will be laid in a line on flat shale, rocks or within the cave. The male will follow behind her and fertilize the eggs. The eggs hatch in about two days and the fry free swimming in about 5 days. Feed newly hatched brine shrimp.

The fry can be left with their mother for two to three weeks before being removed to their own tank.

Turn down water pumps to reduce water flow in the tank during breeding.

When buying your first Yellow Dwarf Cichlids by a group of about six. It is unlikely you’ll be able to sex young fish. They will sort themselves out over time.

Live Cichlids For Sale Comparison Table

Appropriate Feeding for South American Cichlids

In nature, South American Cichlids have a preference for insect larvae, small worms and other invertebrates. In aquariums they readily accept commercial flake or pellet food. It is important to offer them live or freeze-dried high protein foods, especially leading up to breeding time. South American cichlids are mostly carnivores. Check individual species for their dietary requirements.

Correct Maintenance for South American Cichlids

South American Dwarf cichlids are quite resilient and can live within wide water parameters. Periodic partial water changes are an important component of maintenance, as well as cleaning of the substrate and filters. With efficient biological filters and an aquarium that is not over stoked, water changes are not as important.

Many cichlids come from ‘backwater’ creeks and drains and live in amongst decaying leaves and weeds. The water can be quite acidic containing tannin. Keeping this in mind, it may be a good idea that these fish have access to plant material both living and dead. Dead leaves (of sea almond, beech oak or walnut), Alder cones, Indian Almond or peat. With some species, this will entice fish to breed.

Ornaments

Oak leaves that sit on the bottom of the tank are great since they remain stiff while wet. Dwarf cichlids love to swim through the labyrinth of leaves and to live in leafy habitats. You need plenty of rockwork, caves, passages, flower pots, coconut shells, driftwood and/or other ornaments.

Substrate

Some species of Dwarf cichlids live in environments where the substrates are mostly mud or sand. Many species enjoy sifting through sand to find food or to excavate their ‘dens’. Having a layer of gravel an inch or more deep will provide plenty of substrate for digging. If breeding cichlids, it is better to have a small diameter substrate (less than 3mm) as fry and eggs can be lost in the amongst the gravel. Certain species of cichlid prefer dark gravel, and others light.

Plants

Dwarf cichlids do not eat or damage aquatic plants, so you can use pretty much any species of plant that tolerate water levels. Some Dwarf cichlids will uproot plants when digging. Use plants with good roots and pin them down with stones.  Floating plants replicate the wild, providing shade and shelter from predator fish. These may be a good addition.

Final Thoughts

There are plenty of Dwarf cichlids that are suitable for a peaceful community aquarium. Always do your research and parry up your new cichlids with other aquatic creatures that enjoy the same water parameters as them. If you introduce Dwarf Cichlids to your aquarium it is certain that you’ll be entertained and the decision won’t be regrettable, in fact it is highly likely that you become addicted to this quirky species!

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The Complete Guide to Peacock Gudgeon Care

Trevor Aquatic Life (info & tips), Blog, Care Guides, Freshwater Fish (info and tips), Info and Tips, Tropical Freshwater (guides), Tropical Freshwater Fish (Care Guides) ,
Peacock Gudgeon

Aquarium maintenance with peacock gudgeons (Teurndina ocellicauda) is relatively easy. Just like with any other fish species, you need to know what your fish loves to eat, its preferred tankmates, how they reproduce, and the proper water parameters. This article explains how to provide proper care for peacocks. It is worth noting that, although some refer to this fish as a type ofGoby, it is not a true Goby as it does not feature fused pectoral fins.

Are Peacock Gudgeons suitable for aquariums?

 

The peacock gudgeon is a great choice for a novice in the fish-keeping hobby. It’s easy to maintain as long as you’re changing the water monthly and looking after the tank’s condition. The life expectancy for these fish is 4-5 years in captivity. They interact well with other species in their tank. Their behavior is peaceful, though territorial with members of the same species or brightly colored dwarf cichlids. The aquarium decoration should contain enough plants and refuges to hide, especially since they like to lay their eggs in caves. They are ideal to be keep in an aquarium planted with soft water and slightly acidic pH, in addition to little water flow. In aquariums with little or no decoration, they are quite shy. The aquarium must be covered well; they are excellent jumpers.

Peacock Gudgeon

Overview

The Peacock Gudgeon (scientific name:Tateurndina ocellicauda) originates from Papua New Guinea where it occurs in streams, lakes and rivers.It is also seen in Australia and New Zealand.

These fish are easy maintain and entertaining to watch. The hobbyist should be careful to provide high quality nutrition and water conditions, as with any aquaculture environment.

Origin & Appearance

The gudgeon peacock is a tropical fresh water species within the Eleotridae family of species. Members of this family are popularly known as gudgeons. The species is found in the east of Papua New Guinea. Peacock gudgeons are often known for their colors such as silver, pink, blue and yellow slits on their tail. It is one of the most beautiful freshwater fish with striking color varieties – hence their common name, “peacock”.They also are small with the males’ length reaching a three-inch limit on maturity, female being even smaller. Males are larger and more colorful and have a round head with a slight bulge. A large black spot along the fish’s ventricle fin is very similar to the black spot on their caudals.

Life span

Peacock gudgeons’ average life span is 4-5 years in captivity. Poor water conditions can shorten their lives significantly and cause a host of diseases. The key to keeping them healthy is to keep the tank properly running properly with periodic maintenance and quality food. Like all other fish, they are sensitive to extreme changes. However, the peacock gudgeon is often an especially resilient fish in a number of environments.

Are Peacock Gudgeons Right For You?

If you’re a starter who never owned a fish tank before, the peacock gudgeon is a very good start for you. It’s so easy to maintain, has lovely colors and is especially interesting to watch. Once you know what to do, you can gradually introduce new species into your aquarium. In the end, maintaining peacocks should be enjoyable if you have the right setup.

Temperament & General Behavior

Peacock gudgeons are quiet. They won’t pose problems with other nonaggressive creatures that are nearly as big. These fish are usually happiest with groups up to eight. However, a group needs a large aquarium, even though they are peaceful fish; aggression can still happen between males. They coexist peacefully with smaller fish as well. If your fish are comfortable with the environment, you can see them swimming in open areas to show off their pretty looks.

Care and Keeping in a Tank

A small tank of 40 liters (~10USgallons) could fit several fish. Peacock gudgeons feel secure around big number of floating plants; have a number of refuges for them in the tank. It is possible to make the foundation using medium grained sand up to 5mm or smaller gravel. Generally, the fish jumps easily, so be careful to avoid small gaps around container lid. It is recommended to carry out water renewal once per week.

Habitat and Tank Conditions

Peacock gudgeons don’t go as fast as, for example, the Bloodfin Tetra. They prefer a lush and colorful aquarium, since that reminds them of their natural habitat in waters and ponds in Oceania. Crystal clear, densely planted and medium flow waters are preferred. Anubias, Javafern, and waterwisteria are excellent choices for peacocks. They enjoy lying around plants whenever they’re threatened by an attack, and they often swim through tanks with these plants. Rocks and driftwood also keep them happy. You may see their hues becoming lighter when they are placed behind live plants. They like to rest on the substrate under foliage and decorations, so a part of the substrate should be kept free.

What to Include in Their Habitat

Peacock gudgeons are perfectly good fish to have when your aquarium is heavily enriched with aquatic life. When designing a tank, implement a large variety of hardy plants. The fish use the plants for hiding when they feel threatened. Sand is safer to fish than gravel and rocks. There is no specific filter requirement for the peacock gudgeon, just check that your chosen equipment is powerful enough to cycle your tank and keep the nitrates level low. The more plants you have, the happier your fish will be. A good filtering system is ideal to manage the large amount of excreta that these fish produce.

Plants and Decorations

Even in the wild, peacock gudgeons may often be found within areas that contain an abundance of plants. Java fern, Java Moss, Anubias and Water Wisteria plants would best suit your fish tank. Try to include as many real aquarium plants in an aquarium as possible. More plants means happier peacocks so long as there are no crowding the tank. Keep plants to be durable. On top of that you can add some rocks and driftwood to create some sort of cave for peacocks to build nests.

Lighting

Peacock gudgeons like dim lighting but you can put some light into your fish tank. You can also use a light adjusting lamp to adjust the light intensity depending on the time of day on the other sources of light in your home. It is interesting for the aquarist to play with the lighting and the type of setup with these fish. Providing undergrowth as well as strong lighting that which illuminates around 30% of the aquarium causes a very magical effect in the aquarium, and fish can seek out both light and darkness. Peacocks, when well acclimated and stress-free, have no aversion to bright light.

Substrate

The best substrate for peacock gudgeons is light sand – or a bare bottom. Very dark sand, like black sand, will influence the color of the fish.

How many Peacock Gudgeons can be kept?

A general rule of thumb requires a minimum amount of 15 gallons per gudgeon. For larger groups and multi-species communities, larger fish tanks might be needed. They are relatively small and don’t swim very much. It’s most to monitor behavior; monitor the fish in case of groups with more than one male in order to prevent aggression and stress.

Water parameters

It is good practice to test all physical and chemicalparameters occasionally to make sure they are stable, as these parameters can fluctuate without youknowing it if you do not monitor them. Here are the recommended levels for various water parameters: pH 6.5 to 7.5, hardness 5 to 10, T 22° to 28° C. The key to aquarium life is stability, especially in freshwater tanks, and it is important to keep the pH stable in your tank at a steady level.

Peacock Gudgeon Care

Peacock Gudgeon care is relatively easy compared to other fish. However,like any others, these fish need carefully engineered environments and stable water conditions for proper health.

Diet

In their natural environment, peacock gudgeons feed on small invertebrates, insects and insect larvae. They are omnivorous, and in an aquarium, they will readily accept dry and live food. Their colors are more striking when they are fedlive foods like daphnia, bloodworm shrimp, and brine shrimp.

Gender Differences: Male vs Female

Both males and females have black spots where their tail fin ends. Males are bigger and yellower, and their heads are bigger. Abdominal fins on fish are generally colorless, but during mating the females’ turn black and the males’ become brown with a bluish color. Sexual dimorphism is evident, males being larger and more colorful and having a round head with a slight bulge. In the breeding season, females have yellow on their abdomen. When young, females have a dark spot along the entire edge of their dorsal fins, while most males do not.

Difficulties in Keeping

The fish is not big, calm, not aggressive — in general it is almost perfect for those who love bright and small fish. The only drawback of the fish is that it is susceptible to infectious maladies.

Potential Diseases

Peacock Gudgeon has two conditions on his scalp. Ich is highly infectious and often affects peacock gudgeons. Anchor worms and fluke attacks can also cause problems with these fish. The most effective way to prevent your fish from acquiring these diseases is to maintain excellent water quality and not accidentally bringing diseases into their tank from other objects or species. Ich is easily treated by increasing the temperature and breaking the parasite’s cycle. Fluke and anchor worms can be treated with manual removal, constant substrate aspiration and salt baths.